motor & transmission mounts
There is confusion at the parts house. Does anyone know if motor/transmission mounts (toyota calls them front and rear?) are the same 4WD=2WD or if any truck or other units fit? All the rubber is gone from one of mine and the manual tranny flops up and down.
I've got some thumping if I work the gas on and off, shift hard etc. I need to look at some other stuff like the front dif mounts too as I get a noise (like the front drive shaft U clipping body member) if I drive with hubs locked - not there if actually in 4WD or if the hubs are unlocked. It is triggered by uneven road and bumps. I can change the pitch and loudness of the noise if not in 4WD and I start to pull on and then release the 4WD selector.
Any and all hints, tips or finger pointing will be greatly appreciated!!!
Cheers, and Happy New Year!
Re: motor transmission mounts
Just looked. The front drive shaft is really close to a control arm (?) and has worn through the rubber around the radiator line (?) heater line (?) rad cooler line(?) but doesn't seem to have touched the metal pipe. This sounds like the missing rubber in the tranny mount, or something, is letting the drive train sag.
Sure does.
Re: motor transmission mounts
There are different transmission mount configurations depending on year and what transmission you have. The part that breaks is almost always the engine mount on the driver's side. This is because the engine torque tends to pull it apart where-as the one on the passenger side gets pushed together. Toyota calls the engine mounts front insulators. The right and left sides are interchangeable. For 2nd generation vans (4y) these are Toyota part #12361-71020 (3y vans use a different part number and there are some possible exceptions on 86 vans).
If I remember right all the 4wd's only have the one transmission mount and that usually doesn't break. It's mounted on top in the middle. It's got a metal loop with rubber inside. The transmission basically hangs from this mount via a bolt that goes right through the middle. It is pretty much just there for vertical support (won't prevent rocking if you have a broken motor mount). Sometimes on removal the center support bolt gets stuck in the metal sleeve and can be a real PITA to remove, but other than that I've never had problems with these. The photo below was taken from the EPC for an 87 automatic 4wd. Tim
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...untauto4wd.jpg
Re: motor transmission mounts
Thanks Tim. I know I broke a new shock once that led to this noise before so I'll check those and the mounts. There has to be a reason for a sagging drive train. at least putting it in 4wd, for now, gets rid of the noise.
Re: motor transmission mounts
Driver's motor mount was replaced 6 weeks ago. I'll look again to see if it is broken again. The mount was aftermarket so I just ordered one from Titus-Will in Seattle. And I'll check the driver's shock. I'm thinking the missing rubber from the transmission mount is letting the whole drive train sag but maybe it's something else. Really my mechanic will do all this. I don't tackle drive train stuff. I suppose we had better look at the front axle/peanut mounts and stops while we are at it.
I wonder if the replacement shocks were too wimpy and letting stuff sag?
Lots of variables but a competent mechanic should be able to raise the drive train now that I know that is the problem.
I wish I was a competent mechanic. I DID do the fuel injectors and lots of other stuff so I'm not a complete buffoon!!
Re: motor transmission mounts
The torsion bar is maybe twisted. That let's the van sag I think. Next week we'll see if anything else is going on.
Re: motor transmission mounts
okay. the front left axle was chattering at the hub when the hubs were locked and the road rough. In 4WD it was okay if I was on the gas. The spacer that goes with the clip and keeps the axle in place was missing. Ooops. The ride height had to be lowered as the front drive shaft was hanging up as well (hence a thump changing gears and an 'unloading' thump sometimes at stops when I moved the gearshift.
All fixed now.:yes:
I wish I could say I did it but I didn't. I don't do drive train. My mechanic did it.
God bless him.
And Tim.
Re: motor transmission mounts
I know that the 2wd and 4wd have different trans mounts for sure, i guess because of the different tailshaft housings. i also remember it wasnt too difficult to change out the motor mounts.
Re: motor transmission mounts
I just pulled an engine from an 88 5 speed 4wd this weekend. See picture below:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...s/IMG_0682.jpg
This is very, very common. Every van I've ever pulled an engine from has this condition. Even the used replacement engine (supposedly less than 80k miles) arrived with the driver's mount broken. Tim
Re: motor transmission mounts
Since the Toyota mounts always seem to be broken I decided to save some $$$ and try out aftermarket. I ordered the Beck/Arnley #104-1332 but it looks like I ended up with genuine Toyota. Check out the Toyota part number molded into the rubber. :)>:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...e/IMG_1387.jpg
Re: motor transmission mounts
how easy is it to install the drivers side motor mount? what is the process? are 2wd mounts the same as 4wd? ROck auto does not see to have a distinction for 2wd/4wd
Re: motor transmission mounts
I've never actually replaced one on a van with the engine installed.........I have on other cars though. The van is a bit tight in this area due to the alternator and the cross-member. Basically you'll need to take all the bolts out, then jack the engine until it's high enough for the old mount to slip out & the new to slip in. You might want to have a good vocabulary of swear words ready before you start :LOL2:.
Re: motor transmission mounts
yah, i have done this on my old volvo. i pretty much used all my vocabulary on that on. I think i may have sworn in a few languages...
Re: motor transmission mounts
Rawb - This is easier to do than it looks.
Pull the over flow tank and the alternator, undo the big nut with the weight of the engine on it and leave the nut on a few turns.
Use your scissor jack with a block of wood on the oil pan flange, a 2x4 on end fits nicely between the sway bar and the crossmember.
Once you have the weight of the engine supported on the jack, loosen the upper bracket mounting bolts (4) and remove the mount to frame bolts, then lift the engine until it is clear, pull the upper bracket bolts and remove it as an assembly.
Install the new mount onto the bracket, leave the big nut loose enough to articulate the two, it eases getting it back in.
Oh, I had to lift the engine some more in order to get the new mount in.
Install the "new" assembly, put all the bolts (6) in but leave them loose a couple of turns and drop the engine back down.
It will likely all line up beautifully without any grief.
Bolt everything back up and torque the big nut before reinstalling the alternator.
When you do the right side, you have to pull the fuel filter out of the way, then it is very easy.
It is worth doing both sides, while it is the LS mount that separates, they both get compressed.
Mine were over 5/16in shorter than the new ones and I have a lot more clearance in all the right places now.
BB
Re: motor transmission mounts
are the mounts on the 2wd and 4wd the same? I dont see any differentiation in any of the parts catalogs
Re: motor transmission mounts
Quote:
Originally Posted by
timsrv
For 2nd generation vans (4y) these are Toyota part #12361-71020 (3y vans use a different part number and there are some possible exceptions on 86 vans).
For aftermarket there's Anchor #9029 & Beck Arnley #1041332
Re: motor transmission mounts
After installing new motor mounts Van shakes worse than before
I have done a lot of maintenance work to my van this year. After installing new motor mounts the van and steering wheel shake worse than before. Any recommendations?
Re: After installing new motor mounts Van shakes worse than before
Fixed the problem. One was moved sideways
Re: motor transmission mounts
Hi!
I've got an 87 4x4 (5-speed) and when I accelerate hard from a dead stop I get a strong rumble/vibration under the driver's seat. Feels like the valve cover vibrating against the underside of driver side access hatch. I'm thinking it's the left motor mount but was wondering if there might be something else I should check before replacing. Thanks!