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Thread: The hose of death thread

  1. #41
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Alright guys... I have a further question to ask on this Hose of Death thread.

    I sent in my head to get rebuilt, and need to put the Hose of Death 4 bolt plate back on the head.

    Can anyone help with what kind of gasket maker this plate requires?

    Thank you!
    Hugh

  2. #42
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    There is actually a gasket that goes here. It's Toyota part #11182-71010. Although not required, I'll usually use a very thin layer of FIPG (Form-In-Place Gasket) on both sides of the Toyota gasket. If you need the plate/nipple, I believe it's still available for 2wd vans and 5-speed 4wd vans. That is Toyota part #11181-73010. If you have a 4wd auto, sadly that plate/nipple is NLA. You'd need to resort to something like what trestlehed did in this post: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...5321#post25321. Tim

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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Quote Originally Posted by timsrv View Post
    There is actually a gasket that goes here. It's Toyota part #11182-71010. Although not required, I'll usually use a very thin layer of FIPG (Form-In-Place Gasket) on both sides of the Toyota gasket. If you need the plate/nipple, I believe it's still available for 2wd vans and 5-speed 4wd vans. That is Toyota part #11181-73010. If you have a 4wd auto, sadly that plate/nipple is NLA. You'd need to resort to something like what trestlehed did in this post: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...5321#post25321. Tim
    Tim you are incredible! Thank you! I would have never know, the plate was stuck on with some sort of white gasket maker before... I just ordered the gasket so I'll be good to go now!

    -Hugh

  4. #44
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    im in the process of planning out a heater delete to make things easier/more simple and have less chance of something leaking down the road.

    am i able to make a block off plate for the rear hose of death, and block off the line going to the front/rear heater hose T, and still have the coolant circulating through the engine via upper/lower rad hoses?? im aware i would be bypassing the throttle body warmer but i wont be driving it in cold winters so thats not too much of a concern...is there anything else im bypassing that will cause troubles? if there is no coolant going to either front or rear heater hoses, will i have to worry about capping the line here: Name:  Screen Shot 2017-03-31 at 5.09.10 PM.jpg
Views: 179
Size:  13.8 KB

    or will be there be no coolant going to that line anymore anyways after the rear plate has been blocked off?

    thanks for all the help, i think i know what i need to do for the most part but im still a bit unsure what all happens with the coolant bypass hoses, and how much theyre needed

  5. #45
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    I'm not sure what you're using the van for, but not having a working heater doesn't sound like much fun to me. To each his own I guess. If you really don't want it, there will be 3 places to block off and they're all on the head.

    There's the "hose of death" port on the back of the head



    The heater hose output port on the front of the head


    And the heater hose return port on the side of the head (right behind the radiator return port)


    That last one would be a PITA to cap off with the engine installed/assembled. An alternate way for that could be to put a hose plug on the metal tube where it comes out the D/S back of the engine. If you do it that way, then you'll also need to get the bypass return line that's also part of that metal tube assy.

    Frankly, I'd rather replace hoses, then you'd have heat and not need to mess with it (at least the hoses) for another ~30 years (but that's just me). Tim

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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Thank you for your response! that last picture was what i needed to see!

    The reason for wanting to remove the "water bypass" hoses is that many of the nipples that connect to the heater hose (eg. the little metal tubes coming off of the throttle body) have rusted completely off and are no longer really usable....rather than just bypassing all of this with more heater hose and having pointless hoses going throughout the engine that no longer are serving a purpose....i figured it would be easier in the long run to bypass all of this and just have coolant flowing through the engine. I wouldnt complain about still keeping the heaters, but i didnt think that would be possible with removing the throttle body heater hose/idle air control valve/hose of death/everything else that runs around the intake area.

    Thanks, andrew

  7. #47
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    I'm in Van purgatory right now with the Hose By-pass Pipe No.2 on my 1984. The steel coolant pipes are riddled with cracks along rusty striations that run their entire length. I'm wondering if anyone can sell me a new by-pass pipe!? Its pipe number 16278 on the diagram below.
    http://parts.germaintoyotaofnaples.c...ze/MA6928D.jpg

    ...And thank you for creating this wonderful forum site Tim (and co.)! It's a breath of air after feeling like I was underwater for so long.

  8. #48
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Surf5557 View Post
    I'm wondering if anyone can sell me a new by-pass pipe!? Its pipe number 16278 on the diagram below.
    http://parts.germaintoyotaofnaples.c...ze/MA6928D.jpg................

    That one is likely still available from Toyota. It's part #16278-73011 and sells for around $60 (MSRP), or you can purchase from the site I linked to (click on the part number above), and pay $43 (then pay the $17 you saved in shipping). Tim

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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Does anyone know the correct order of operations for installing the upper manifold and throttle body? Last time I struggled for hours trying to line up the most accessible bolt that holds the by-pass bracket to the manifold, but I gave up on the second bolt that was further towards the "Hose from hell." Is it somehow easier to assemble these parts with the by-pass pipe already mounted?

    Also, I find that the length of my hoses is causing issues. Nowhere in my 1984 Factory Manual does it list instructions for this. I'd love to just bypass the by-pass!

  10. #50
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    I vaguely remember dealing with that years ago before cutting the access hole (as pictured earlier in this thread). Hasn't been an issue since. Did you cut an access hole?

    If you're planning to use the van in cold temperatures (below freezing), I wouldn't disable the bypass. Doing so would prevent the air valve from working and would allow freeze-ups of the throttle body. Tim

    Edit: I believe I leave that pipe assy bolted to the manifold, then cut both the bypass hoses (HOD 1 & 2). The vacuum lines are not that hard to pull off. After the manifold is out of the way, it's easy to clean-up/remove the left-over parts of hoses. Tim

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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Thanks Tim!
    The second go around to correct the leaking bypass pipe I brazed the holes with an oxyacetylene torch and brass, then I bolted it onto the throttle body/manifold, and after that I installed the manifold. The last thing I ended up doing was connect the hoses (without the access hole) and everything is sealed up tight now for 2 weeks.
    I'm convinced I fixed the leak this time, although I'm a little embarrassed that I did use some alumiseal in the coolant and it did nothing but congest my cooling system. Whoops

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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Quote Originally Posted by timsrv View Post


    That last one would be a PITA to cap off with the engine installed/assembled. An alternate way for that could be to put a hose plug on the metal tube where it comes out the D/S back of the engine. If you do it that way, then you'll also need to get the bypass return line that's also part of that metal tube assy.

    Frankly, I'd rather replace hoses, then you'd have heat and not need to mess with it (at least the hoses) for another ~30 years (but that's just me). Tim
    In the last picture you have included a peek of the vacuum lines that go into the valve on the power steering pump. How does one correctly install those hoses when the valve can be under/over torqued and the orientation of the ports reversed? Is there indication for correct orientation on the pump valve?

  13. #53
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Surf5557 View Post
    In the last picture you have included a peek of the vacuum lines that go into the valve on the power steering pump. How does one correctly install those hoses when the valve can be under/over torqued and the orientation of the ports reversed? Is there indication for correct orientation on the pump valve?
    It doesn't matter if they're reversed. It's just an on/off valve so it doesn't matter which hose goes where.

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    Re: The hose of death thread

    the pre-formed hoses on the underside of the intake (part numbers in purple) are all NLA.

    Name:  2wdairvalvehoses.jpg
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    I have some hose the same size but it kinks when I try to bend it at that angle. I was able to replace the one small straight piece obviously, but the bent pieces kink pretty bad.

    is there a way to form it to the proper shape? or maybe use a different type of hose material thats more flexible?

  15. #55
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    That really sucks............I was wondering when that was going to happen. Those are all vacuum hoses with ~1/2" ID (to direct air through the Auxiliary Air Valve). The only thing that comes to mind is to find some 1/2" ID formed heater hose with tight bends, then cut parts out of it to match what you need. When I get in a spot like that I ask the guys at my local Napa to let me look through their inventory. There's also some weird shapes and bends available at the Dorman HELP! rack.

    Then there's brass nipple elbows pushed onto straight hose. Another option is Unicoils. Gates makes devices called "Unicoils" that you put over straight hoses. You get one that fits the OD of the hose, then you can bend sharply and it prevents kinking. They work, but I'm not crazy about them as they make the hoses heavy and clunky. As these vans get older and parts get harder to find, I suspect there will be a lot more of this type thing we're forced to do to keep them on the road. Good luck. Tim

  16. #56
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    That really sucks as I was getting ready to rebuild a spare engine and replace all that stuff. I went through this when I did my head gasket 5 years ago. I tried my best to avoid the dealer but ran in to problem after problem with aftermarket hoses. The issue was the diameter. They actually are not 1/2 inch but 12 mm which requires a clamp to seal and is still not ideal. From what I remember there was not enough room on some of the air valve connections to install a clamp. I had the same issue with coolant hoses and the local industrial hose supplier told me this was common on Toyota, Mercedes, and a few others that chose to use metric sizes. The solution was to either stretch on the next size down or clamp down the next size up. I ordered all that was available form the dealer and compromised on the rest. I used a unicoil for the small angled hoses at the rear heater core as they were NLA at that time but like Tim said it makes for a bulky hose and may not fit for the air valve application. Two years ago when I tried to find a unicoil for my Subaru most parts store counter persons looked at me like I was a moron and said," A uni-what?". The guy that finally knew what I was talking about said they quit making them but I've still seen them online just not on the local parts store counter.

  17. #57
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Quote Originally Posted by originalkwyjibo View Post
    [...] problem after problem with aftermarket hoses. The issue was the diameter. They actually are not 1/2 inch but 12 mm which requires a clamp to seal and is still not ideal.
    And this is why I had to spend eight hours on my back on a cold cement floor (and cussing almost the entire time) to replace a leaking HOD not all that long after the head job (by someone else). There's no substitute for OEM hose, especially in any hard-to-access locations!

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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Quote Originally Posted by originalkwyjibo View Post
    They actually are not 1/2 inch but 12 mm which requires a clamp to seal and is still not ideal.
    I was incorrect on the size. Factory is 14mm not 12mm. Hope I didn't cause anyone confusion.

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