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    Replacing your fuel pulsation damper

    (First things first: many dankes and salaams to Llamavan for taking the pictures, for being such a wise site administrator, for looking after my vans when I'm overseas, and for being an all-around good person.)

    Hello everyone,

    A couple of days ago I replaced the fuel pulsation damper (FPD) in my '87 4WD.
    What, you may ask, are the symptoms of a bad FPD? The most obvious (and dangerous) one is a strong smell of raw gasoline in your engine compartment, outside the van, and possibly in your van's people compartment.
    If you suspect a gas leak, pull over and stop and investigate the cause! Gasoline is very volatile, has a low "flash point," and will catch fire in less than a heartbeat! Safety first, last, and always - I cannot emphasize this point strongly enough.

    If this job description seems overly detailed to the point of being patronizing, I apologize in advance. I supervise the maintenance and operation of a merchant ship's engineroom for a living, and am accustomed to giving explicit step-by-step instructions in most aspects of the jobs done by those who work for me.

    Prepare for the maintenance before you start turning wrenches. When you remove your FPD, you will inevitably lose some gas out of the fuel rack (pipe) that supplies the injectors. Your van's exhaust manifold (below the FPD) should be cool to the touch before starting. Make sure the space where you replace your FPD is well-ventilated (preferably outdoors), and you have some method of controlling or containing the fuel that will spill.

    You will need a 22 mm open-end wrench for removing and reinstalling the FPD, and a wrench for disconnecting your battery cable. You need not remove the passenger-side engine cover. There are two types of FPDs for our vans; my '86 and '87 take part number 23270-50011 and my '88 takes P/N 23207-16020. Check with your parts source to see which one fits your van, based on your VIN. The gaskets needed for the FPD are the same for all years; they are P/Ns 23232-41081 for the aluminum gasket on the FPD and 90430-12005 for the copper gasket between the banjo fitting and the fuel rack. You will need one spare of each type of gasket per FPD replaced; they should not be reused. More on gasket location and fitting later.

    To cut down the fuel pressure behind the FPD before removing it, you can try running your engine while removing the 15 amp EFI fuse. This picture shows the location of the fuse, right next to the main fuse box under the dashboard, circled in red:

    Name:  FPD 1a comp. EFI fuse removed.jpg
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    My engine stopped as soon as the EFI fuse was removed; YMMV.

    Once your van is in position for the work, it's a good idea to block the wheels. Next step - remember, safety first - is to disconnect at least one of the battery cables. Now you can start removing the FPD. This picture shows its location, circled in yellow, below the throttle body and intake manifold:

    Name:  FPD 2a comp. FPD before highlighted.jpg
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    Note the two clamps on the adjacent vacuum hose that have been moved for ease of access. Having skinny fingers and small hands helps when doing this job.

    Once you loosen it, the FPD should screw right out. This is the aforementioned point where you will lose some fuel. If you have to put a bit of muscle into loosening the FPD, make sure you brace the fuel rack to prevent fracturing it.

    This picture shows the copper gasket (P/N 90430-12005) and banjo fitting above the FPD when it is removed:

    Name:  FPD 6a comp. FPD Removed.jpg
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    This picture shows my used and new FPDs. Note the absence of the machine screw in the top of the old one:

    Name:  FPD 5 comp. Both FPDs.jpg
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    Now, with the new FPD turned upside down, place a new aluminum gasket (P/N 23232-41081) on its threaded shaft. Remove the old copper gasket from the banjo fitting, clean the banjo fitting's gasket seating surfaces as best you can, and then place a new copper gasket between it and the fuel rack. Getting the gasket centered on the banjo fitting opening is not critical at this point; when you push the FPD into the bottom of the banjo fitting, the gasket will be centered by the shaft. (Just make sure that the gasket does not fall out during the replacement.) You may have to tug a slight bit on the banjo fitting to get it up into its slot on the bottom of the fuel rack.

    When threading the FPD into the fuel rack, be careful not to cross-thread it, or you'll wind up replacing the entire rack. It should thread in easily, once you get it all oriented properly. Using your handy-dandy 22 mm open-end wrench, tighten it until it's snug - don't make it too tight. This picture shows how the new FPD should look once it is installed and tightened:

    Name:  FPD 7 comp. New FPD Installed.jpg
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    OK, you're done with the installation. Let it sit for a little while to allow the gas fumes to dissipate, then reconnect the battery. If you removed your EFI fuse, now is the time to reinstall it. It's a good idea, but not absolutely necessary, to use the fuel pump to fill up the fuel rack and check for leaks before starting. To do this, locate the fuel pump check connector near the air filter and throttle body. Short out the two connections in it (safety first - use insulated wire!), then turn your ignition key to the "Run" position. You should hear a relay click and the electric fuel pump start. It will take just a few seconds to fill up the fuel rack. If you spot any leaks, shut down immediately and troubleshoot!

    Turn the ignition key to "Off" and remove the fuel pump check connector jumper. Check your work one more time to make sure everything is back in place. With the "hood" still open, start your engine and check again for any fuel leaks; increase engine RPM to the normal range and check again.

    If you have no fuel leaks, sit back with a cold one of your choice and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well-done. B^)
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    Last edited by Flounder; 12-26-2010 at 11:53 AM. Reason: Better pictures

  2. #2
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    Re: Replacing your fuel pulsation damper

    Thanks for the awesome write-up Flounder! Very impressive documentation. It cannot be stressed enough the importance of safety here. Like Flounder said, anytime you smell raw gasoline it should be investigated immediately. These FPDs are a common leak point on these vans and I know of several vans that have burned due to a leaky FPD. One of these vans was the white one I wrote up HERE in my body work thread.

    The leak started after I sold the van. The new owner noticed the gas smell but kept driving (did not investigate). A week or so after that the van went up in flames (total loss). It was parked next to his 95 SC All-Trac Previa and that was also lost . Fortunately his losses were limited to these 2 vehicles, as it could have been much much worse. We will never know the exact cause of the fuel leak, but his Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) was less than 1 year old so I suspect the FPD. Had he investigated this ASAP, these vans would most likely still be alive. Tim

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    Re: Replacing your fuel pulsation damper

    Always helpful to visit the site...

    '87 4wd is leaking fuel, only while running. Last night I noticed a strong smell of gasoline, but it was nite time and no visible liquid underneath. This am awoke to strong odor again. Turn over ignition only to see if I could see a leak... thought I might blow up. Have not driven vehicle and plan to tow as needed. There appears to be a leak originating from below the oil filter, perhaps a fuel line? After reading this I plan to replace FPD regardless. I'll report back with the cause of failure.


    Happy Holidays!

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    Re: Replacing your fuel pulsation damper

    There are 2 potential leak points in the area you mention. The most likely is the flex line that goes to the under side of the fuel filter. The other is the rubber hose portion of the fuel return line (smaller diameter rubber hose that goes between engine and frame). The bigger line holds about 40 psi, the smaller one is just a return line, so not much pressure here. Tim

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    Question Re: Replacing your fuel pulsation damper

    My 1987 Van FPD is leaking. As in Flounder's picture of old vs new FPDs, it doesn't have a machine screw as pictured in the new one. Could this be the cause of the leak, and could a new screw solve the problem?

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    Re: Replacing your fuel pulsation damper

    Having a screw vs not having a screw is simply a manufacturing style. Some of them have it some of them don't. If it's not leaking from the banjo fitting, then it's leaking due to a torn diaphragm (inside the damper). When this happens the damper needs to be replaced.

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    Re: Gasoline leak

    If you're looking to save money, there's an aftermarket alternative. I've been generally happy with the Standard #FPD4 dampers, but have noticed the threads to be a bit rough. As a result, I chase them with an M12 X 1.25 die & then they thread onto the fuel rail easily.

  8. #8
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    Re: Gasoline leak

    Good find, that #FPD4 is a good deal! Wish I saw it earlier but I already have a #FPD3 from Rock Auto on the way. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,6120. Luckily my Toyota dealership has the gaskets in stock so as soon as the damper comes in I'll be good to go

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    Re: Gasoline leak

    I'm not sure what the difference is on the FPD3 vs FPD4. I've used them both and they are interchangeable. I like the FPD4 better as it doesn't have a weep hole in it (I figure less chance of a leak). I did notice the FPD3 is listed for earlier vans (like yours). Since later vans used a higher PSI FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) I'm guessing the difference may be spring pressures are higher on the FPD4 to compensate. I'm currently running an FPD4 on an earlier van, but I'm also running the higher PSI FPR as to reduce heat soak issues. Tim

    PS: Due to crappy threads, these Standard FPD's can be a real PITA to thread on the fuel rail straight (at least the ones I've used). You might get lucky, but if you're going to use this I'd recommend chasing the threads 1st using a die like the one I linked to in my earlier post.

  10. #10
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    Re: Gasoline leak

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/172676281896

    gonna give this one a shot, says fpd4 compatible and made is south korea...auto7 is the brand theres multiple listings, seems about half of the standard brand one..

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    Re: Gasoline leak

    Name:  20170812_154901.jpg
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    so....my ebay order from j'ust automotive parts' was a drop ship from rockauto....do a search at rockauto for #401-0204..$9..plus shipping..threads are good, diaphram looks a little smaller...has the screw in the end...havnt actually run the engine, but im sure its fine..

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    Re: Gasoline leak

    Quote Originally Posted by timsrv View Post
    If you're looking to save money, there's an aftermarket alternative. I've been generally happy with the Standard #FPD4 dampers, but have noticed the threads to be a bit rough. As a result, I chase them with an M12 X 1.25 die & then they thread onto the fuel rail easily.
    I acquired a similar aftermarket FPD from Oreilly Auto Parts and noticed the threading was a little off - went in a little bit more rough than I would have hoped but sits snug (I was worried that I was cross-threading it, even after 10 or so attempts to meticulously place the FPD properly, and I have a steady hand).

    Should I be concerned that I stripped the threading in the fuel rail? Or is a little bit of a tight snug when threading no harm?

    Also, you might find this interesting. There was no fuel pulsation damper when I got my van and only realized that it was missing when diagnosing a hard start issue (thanks guys). In its place was a weird screw that had a whole in it, presumably allowing fuel to pass through. I'll post a picture of this later on this thread.

    Don't know how this worked for my 3000+ mile road trip last summer... I will admit that my distributor, spark plugs, and one injector were shot resulting in me finishing my last 600 miles through the Arizona desert in June with only two cylinders firing (that was nerve-wracking to say the least). She lives to see another day though

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    Re: Gasoline leak

    Quote Originally Posted by tennesseetoyota View Post
    Should I be concerned that I stripped the threading in the fuel rail? Or is a little bit of a tight snug when threading no harm?
    It's a steel part threading into an aluminum fuel rail. Yes it's possible to damage the fuel rail threads by forcing one with crummy threads into it. If/when the fuel rail threads strip out it becomes scrap metal. Since you managed to screw it in and tighten it enough to seal, then I'd just leave it alone. If/when you ever need to take it back off I would clean-up the damper threads before putting it back on. Tim

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    Re: Gasoline leak

    Quote Originally Posted by timsrv View Post
    It's a steel part threading into an aluminum fuel rail. Yes it's possible to damage the fuel rail threads by forcing one with crummy threads into it. If/when the fuel rail threads strip out it becomes scrap metal. Since you managed to screw it in and tighten it enough to seal, then I'd just leave it alone. If/when you ever need to take it back off I would clean-up the damper threads before putting it back on. Tim
    Should I be concerned about a fuel leak? I don't smell any fuel but there is some residue on the exterior of the FPD currently.

    Is there any way to test for a fuel leak besides smelling for it?

    Thanks as always Tim!

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    Re: Replacing your fuel pulsation damper

    Wipe it off and if it comes back and smells like gas, fix it-or you'll have the char broiled edition!

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    Re: Gasoline leak

    Quote Originally Posted by timsrv View Post
    If you're looking to save money, there's an aftermarket alternative. I've been generally happy with the Standard #FPD4 dampers, but have noticed the threads to be a bit rough. As a result, I chase them with an M12 X 1.25 die & then they thread onto the fuel rail easily.
    I spent 45 minutes busting my knuckles trying to thread that rockauto FPD thanks for the advice

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    Re: Gasoline leak

    Quote Originally Posted by reclusebrown View Post
    I spent 45 minutes busting my knuckles trying to thread that rockauto FPD thanks for the advice
    Add me to that list! Just spent an hour trying to thread that hunk of crap FPD3 into my fuel rail. Meanwhile, the old one I pulled out goes in like butter. Standard used to be a go-to for me, nice parts made in the States at reasonable prices. Now, between the jank threads on this fuel damper, and the FPR that failed within a thousand miles on my Volvo 240 (both parts most definitely NOT made in the USA!) I think this is the last Standard/Intermotor anything I'm going to buy. Guess I'll chase the threads at work and try again next week.

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    Re: Replacing your fuel pulsation damper

    I had a bad FPD, and I have replaced it. Before I replaced it, I ran the van and pulled the EFI fuse, to lessen the amount of fuel in the fuel rail. When I tried to start it after the fix, I have no power to anything. The battery is charged. Is there an obvious thing this could be, related to pulling the fuse, or just something coincidental?

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    Re: Replacing your fuel pulsation damper

    I can't see how it would be related to anything you did (most likely coincidental). Make sure your battery cables are tight and check the fusible links listed in THIS THREAD.

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    Very Intermittent fuel smell - In cabin only

    Recently I've had a fuel smell in the cabin after driving short distances and letting the van sit for about 10-15 minutes.. I'll run into the store and come out and it smells like fuel inside only. Nothing outside. I've read all the threads about the fuel pulsation damper and it's not leaking. Recently replaced the fuel filter and rechecked all connections and hoses, they look good. Filler hose looks good. No leaks under the van or visible on any fuel lines or components I can see. No drop in fuel economy... city only has been 20-22 mpg.

    The only thing I've noticed out of the ordinary is what sounds like the fuel pump stays running for about 30 seconds or a minute after turning off the van, but this is only intermittent and I'm not sure that it corresponds to the fuel smell.

    I can't find a mechanic in town that knows much more than I do about working on these vans so I'm hoping you all have some suggestions. The van is a 1989 auto with right at 198K miles. I thought maybe the injectors, but again, the van runs great and there's no loss of fuel economy or power. Any help appreciated.

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