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wcalayag
11-26-2012, 09:59 PM
Hello toyota friends,

Parts are getting hard to find whether in the yard or parts place! My van has 293,000 and and had the 2nd
radiator.if anybody has the this part & the right one with lesser miles i hoped I'd like to know asap..You may
email or call me at 571 277 0109............

Thank you all,
Wesley

coronan
02-28-2013, 04:15 PM
My 4x4 van Radiator measures 13" x 24". I've been researching other radiators that will fit the van either as an upgrade or dual radiator setup.

So far I've come up with Mustang and VW Soirocco. Performance models are available for either of these cars.

The Soirocco has the inlet / out on the same side. I havent confirmed what size hoses yet.

skyflyer9
02-28-2013, 09:10 PM
For some reason the 4WD radiator (part #16400‑73170, replaced by part #16400-73190) is showing up as available on several different Toyota Parts sites.

I often use ToyotaPartsZone.com, which is showing the '87 4WD rad available for $421.72 (http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~radiator~assy~16400-73170.html).

This may or may not be true, but I checked a couple other sites which also listed the 4WD radiator as available.

I don't know why it would be NLA, and then show back up.

TPZ is usually quite good at telling me when "The part you are looking for is NOT Available" !

Give 'em a call and see if it's true...

timsrv
02-28-2013, 09:20 PM
Rather than spend that kind of money on a stock radiator, I would highly recommend having the old one recored with a 4 row high efficiency core. Tim

skyflyer9
02-28-2013, 10:15 PM
Rather than spend that kind of money on a stock radiator, I would highly recommend having the old one recored with a 4 row high efficiency core. Tim

What's a ball-park good price for a shop to do that job?

(just wondering...the cooling system on my new 4WD is fine, but the van is at the 'magic' mile mark of of about 120K...meaning all the random stuff that goes wrong after 100K will fall to me, the second owner...) :wnk:

timsrv
03-01-2013, 12:46 AM
Here's a quote from another thread:


4WD Radiators. NLA from Toyota, NLA from everywhere else now, too, including 1-800-Radiator.

Solution — grab ANY 4WD radiator you find in a junkyard and stash it, even if you don't need it! (If you have an A/T van and can only find a M/T van radiator, there are people here and elsewhere who will swap with you. No sense in letting any more get crushed.) As long as the tanks are good, it can be recored.

Even better solution — send away your radiator, or a harvested one, for a high-efficiency four-row recore. This outfit has done several and is keeping the build specs (their ref #7403) on file:

Ability Radiator
260 A Garden Hwy
Yuba City, CA 95991-5500
(530) 673-0813; ask for Greg

I paid $342 plus shipping for one in mid-2010.

Gwen

wcalayag
03-01-2013, 04:55 AM
Here's a quote from another thread:

Hello online friends,

Thank you all for your response !!!! About my radiator, i did exactly what the majority suggested. I
had it RECORED and it's just as good as new! It cost $335. It was a blessing when i was calling around
and somebody referred me to this guy here in Manassas Va who does recoring work at his place.
If anybody needs recoring you can try calling John Sorrell 703 409 2813. Attached is a pic of my new radiator.

Regards,
Wesley
.874

873

MonTex
03-31-2013, 12:34 PM
The Ability Radiator at Yuba City, CA reportedly uses a high-efficiency 4-row radiator core that is manufactured by

http://jbrspecialties.com

J B Radiator Specialties Inc.
Sacramento, California
Phone: (916) 381-4790

My local radiator shop in north Los Angeles uses this same 4-row radiator core to construct 'desert racing' radiators which is popular with the desert racing crowd around Southern California (e.g., SoCal). However, I was told that this 4-row core allows for *less solder* to solder the water tanks on either side of the 4-row core. They actually suggested that the 3-row high-efficiency re-core would be a better choice for durability for this reason. To construct the 4-row high-efficiency re-core using my old radiator tanks was under $300 at my local radiator shop.

coronan
04-09-2013, 01:38 PM
Has anyone ever considered jumping the AC fans to come on to supply more air to the radiator?

You could do this with a manual switch or a thermo switch. Easy if you already have an E fan on the radiator.

Burntboot
04-09-2013, 03:13 PM
Not sure about 2WD's but on a 4WD the condensor is mounted horizontally, ahead of the rad area and the fans blow down.
Can't see how they would do anything to help the radiator cool better.
BB

Flounder
02-25-2014, 02:32 PM
Has anyone here ever dealt with a cracked tank? One of my vans' right-side radiator tank has a small weep near the top. Tried cleaning it up and putting some JB Weld over it as a temporary fix, but it's having a hard time curing in the 40-50F temps here in the NW. Toyota Parts Zone lists a new one for $294.72; I'm betting it's aftermarket. Might try my usual parts source at Lithia in Springfield, OR. I have one recored by Ability, but it's buried *deep* in the back of my jam-packed storage space. So...anyone who has ever had a tank repaired, I'd be very grateful for the benefit of your experience.:silvervan:

coronan
02-25-2014, 03:26 PM
It could be soldered. Maybe not now that it has jb weld in it. Take it to a radiator shop and ask em of it can be repaired. If not ask them to record it with a 4 row.

timsrv
02-25-2014, 10:38 PM
If this is for one of your 4wd vans then there's nothing available (not even aftermarket). Some parts sites may still list it but I'm guessing it will come back as NLA when you place the order. Like coronan says, when you have an issue with a radiator pull it out and take it to a radiator shop. They are the experts and if it can be fixed they will fix it. Never a good idea to put epoxy or anything else on a radiator, but I'm guessing it won't stick good enough to create a problem anyhow (probably come right off when they mess with it). Tim

wcalayag
02-28-2014, 12:39 AM
Has anyone here ever dealt with a cracked tank? One of my vans' right-side radiator tank has a small weep near the top. Tried cleaning it up and putting some JB Weld over it as a temporary fix, but it's having a hard time curing in the 40-50F temps here in the NW. Toyota Parts Zone lists a new one for $294.72; I'm betting it's aftermarket. Might try my usual parts source at Lithia in Springfield, OR. I have one recored by Ability, but it's buried *deep* in the back of my jam-packed storage space. So...anyone who has ever had a tank repaired, I'd be very grateful for the benefit of your experience.:silvervan:

Hello,

These tanks are metal, like copper or whatever which can be soldered. Have you tried soldering? Better yet, depending on the radiator's
age, have it record and you get a longer trouble-free cooling system.

That's what I did !

W

Flounder
03-03-2014, 08:32 PM
Thanks very much for the info, gentlemen. I'm planning on trucking her down to Oregon in a couple of weeks. I can virtually wipe off the JB Weld, fortunately it was cheap...if I had a clean and dry shop to work in, I'd have already fixed (silver brazed) it. But that's about a year and a half away, on my property south of Chehalis.

mahleek87
09-22-2014, 08:16 PM
wcalayag,

How is your radiator holding up so far? Im considering making the trip to manassas va and trying to get in contact with the guy you recommended John to recore my radiator in my 86 2WD. Its leaking pretty badly and I bought this new a year ago from an advance auto parts. :cnfsd:


Hope fully he can fix it?

Wonderwagon
02-02-2015, 07:28 PM
However, I was told that this 4-row core allows for *less solder* to solder the water tanks on either side of the 4-row core.

Yeah, so I got the 4-row recore 5 years ago, and now there is a leak dripping from where the rows meet the tank on the driver's side. The radiator was showing up as available on a Toyota parts site, but they confirmed that it is NOT. Unsure as to where to get a radiator now, as my van is my daily driver, so I'm looking for another radiator to get recored so I can swap it in myself.

I am looking to buy a 4wd radiator.

timsrv
02-03-2015, 12:54 AM
I wouldn't condemn the 4 row radiator just because you got a leak after 5 years. Anything can leak in that amount of time.......could even be a core defect or workmanship issue. I'd pull it out and take it to a radiator shop. I'm guessing they can fix it up for around $150 or less. If your van is a daily driver, maybe you could call them ahead of time to set up an appointment to have it fixed while you wait. FYI, I've been running my 4 core radiator for around 10 years now with no issues (knock on wood). Tim

mahleek87
02-03-2015, 06:09 AM
Tim where did you get your radiator re cored? If I get mine done I'll see if I can ship it to the same shop you got yours done from. All the shops around here suck or are too far

timsrv
02-03-2015, 11:32 AM
Mine was done at a local shop "Mac's Radiator" by a guy I felt comfortable with. Since then the shop has stopped doing work on location. They are still there, but they simply take radiators and transport to their Portland shop to have the work done on them. Once complete, they transport back to the local shop. I didn't like that so I switched to Wilson's radiator in Vancouver, WA. Those guys do their own work in-house and they know what they're doing. I haven't had them do any custom recores, but if I needed one I wouldn't hesitate to trust them with it. The core used in my radiator was a Modine High efficiency core & it's been doing good.

Due to the age and rareness or our vehicles, it's understandable that a shop may not be familiar with where to get the core. That's why it could be important to know who makes the product you want. For the 2wd it's the Modine core, and for the 4wd it's J B Radiator Specialties in Sacramento (MonTex posted earlier in this thread). Armed with this information, any competent shop should be able to obtain parts and do the recore. Tim

originalkwyjibo
02-03-2015, 12:44 PM
I recently spoke with a local shop about doing this. I've had them do work before and been happy. He explained how they would do the four row by splitting the corners of the tanks to widen it. When I told him I had a spare radiator that had pin holes all over the tanks he said, "No problem, I can get new tanks made." I didn't inquire as to cost and haven't been back with my other radiator yet to ask any more questions but I would assume this opens the possibility for a completely new radiator with tanks designed to accommodate a four row core. When I take my radiator in I'll ask more questions and post the answers.

Wonderwagon
02-03-2015, 08:47 PM
I'll talk with a radiator shop this week about what can be done. It looks that my Flex-a-lite dual fan setup that is held on by plastic strips through the fins is to blame. What happened is that the driver's side fan is barely resting on the differential, putting upward pressure on the rows over there. I'll try remounting after the radiator is fixed.
Tim, that custom aluminum shroud of yours would be nice, but I'm just glad the move to Nevada went without any issues.

coronan
02-03-2015, 10:55 PM
Where in Nevada are you?
If your in Reno, I can help.

I fitted a Corolla Radiator into my van. There are pics on here somewhere. (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?1841-Reworking-4wd-radiator&p=11604&viewfull=1#post11604)

Got electric fans yet?

Wonderwagon
02-03-2015, 11:11 PM
I actually am in the Reno area! Your Corolla radiator install has some nice fab work there. I am keeping my front diff in, so that wouldn't fit. I would be interested in your old radiator if you still had it. Private messages work on here, don't they?

Yes, I've been using electric fans for years, and find them to be far better for cooling at low speeds. As I mentioned in my last post, I think the way I mounted them led to my current trouble. My van's been pretty reliable for several years now, thus my absence on the forums.

coronan
02-04-2015, 12:46 PM
I already sold my old radiator.
But I still have my e Fan schroud if you need.

The plan for my van is to lift the front 2" and fit a 4Runner diff. Someday when I have time.
The stock front diff came out when i regeared to 4.88's. Best mod Ever.
Limited slip in the rear gets me down 90% of the trails. Unless I am doing something stupid.:?:

timsrv
02-04-2015, 01:25 PM
I had 5 or 6 of those radiators sitting in a parts van (all good usable cores). When we moved about 3 years ago it took us about 10 days to get everything off the property. During that time metal thieves came out and stole all my radiators, cats, and differentials out of that van (among several other things) :pissed:. Such a shame as they were 4wd auto diff's (great for swapping into manual vans with big tires) and 4wd radiators. Of course I'm sure they're all melted down by now. All the thievery is the biggest reason we moved from there. At least what I have left is finally safe. Tim

djshimon
02-04-2015, 01:41 PM
Hey Coronan,
Didn't you sell that shroud last summer- Or was that someone else? I'm interested in it if Wonderwagon is not.
Aaron.

Wonderwagon
02-05-2015, 08:57 PM
I'm not interested in changing my shroud setup, I'll just mount it 1/4" higher and it should be fine.

Visited the local radiator shop today, but their specialist wasn't there. I'm hesitant to send it back to Ability Radiator in California and would rather deal with the local guys if I can. We'll see once I get the radiator out what the story is.

Wonderwagon
06-09-2015, 08:48 PM
The local radiator shop fixed it by soldering up the rows that had broken off the tank. Only $50 and I'm very pleased with their service!

micah202
06-15-2015, 11:26 AM
Here's a quote from another thread:
4WD Radiators. NLA from Toyota, NLA from everywhere else now, too, including 1-800-Radiator.

Solution — grab ANY 4WD radiator you find in a junkyard and stash it, even if you don't need it! (If you have an A/T van and can only find a M/T van radiator, there are people here and elsewhere who will swap with you. No sense in letting any more get crushed.) As long as the tanks are good, it can be recored.

Even better solution — send away your radiator, or a harvested one, for a high-efficiency four-row recore. This outfit has done several and is keeping the build specs (their ref #7403) on file:

Ability Radiator
260 A Garden Hwy
Yuba City, CA 95991-5500
(530) 673-0813; ask for Greg

I paid $342 plus shipping for one in mid-2010.

Gwen


just called these folks.... the fellow laughed, saying he hasn't done one for a year or two,, but I'm the 3rd inquiry this week!
Apparently copper pricing is 'out the roof'...current price, including return shipping is $439.....you provide the old radiator.
Anyone know of cheaper options for a 4 core high efficiency?

Jlhollowx13
06-17-2015, 09:51 PM
I'm in the same boat as everyone here. I need radiator fixes! I'm still trying to decide on shipping it out or driving to the nearest location. Also trying to decide if I want a recore or just swab out the one I have that doesn't leak.

Wish sh there were some choices to buy new!

robotfist
04-30-2016, 08:40 PM
I am have an 87' 4WD that runs hot and is burning oil. I go through about 1 1/2 quarts a month. I am also looking for a new radiator or a place in Los Angeles (or somewhere in SoCal) to get my current one recored.

Thanks!

-Derek

Chi-Town
05-01-2016, 12:37 PM
At $439 for a recore would anyone be interested in an aluminum replacement?

I have a local guy that makes aluminum radiators for race cars, street rods, and odd applications that I could ask for pricing. I'm guessing if we did 4 or 5 at a time it might help with the cost?

coronan
05-01-2016, 01:50 PM
$400 is allot for a radiator unless you like your van.

It has been the going rate for a while. And most Happily pay it.

I'd be interested in an aluminum unit.
I'm running a celica radiator my cooling is improved but not perfect.

timsrv
05-01-2016, 03:57 PM
I would be down for one if the price is <$500.

micah202
05-01-2016, 04:14 PM
.

...I might be down for one as well,, want to check local first,,


...what's the actual core size of the 4x4 radiator?

llamavan
05-01-2016, 05:16 PM
I'm also interested.

Gwen

Flounder
05-01-2016, 05:25 PM
I'd like to buy a spare or two.

Tim

Chi-Town
05-01-2016, 08:34 PM
Ok, I'll swing by his place this week and see what he has to say as far as if it's something he'll do and what the price will be.

JDM VANMAN
05-01-2016, 11:31 PM
I'm in <$500 as well.

We're talking specifically about 4WD 5 speed specs, correct?

timsrv
05-02-2016, 12:13 AM
We're talking specifically about 4WD 5 speed specs, correct?

Chi-Town, you might ask what price difference (if any) there would be having a transmission cooler built-in. If we're doing a group buy, depending on price difference, it might make more sense to build them all with auto trans coolers. If the radiator is built to the automatic transmission specs, it could be used in all 4wd vans (at least without mods).

If I'm forking out ~$500 for an aluminum radiator, it might very possibly be moved from van to van over it's life, and it would be nice to have one interchangeable without having to set-up a separate tranny cooler. Tim

ratatouille
05-02-2016, 11:28 AM
Also interested......

i'm curious though, would there be plastic involved? Like some of the modern aluminum rad's out there today I think have plastic tanks? If I remember correctly, I went through a couple over the years in different pick ups I've owned. I think the plastic tanks and what not would get brittle over time...

micah202
05-02-2016, 12:35 PM
.



....can someone please give measurements of the 4x4 radiator core?.... thanks!

timsrv
05-02-2016, 11:54 PM
I'm going from memory here, but I believe the core (not including tanks) is ~11" X 22" (or there abouts). I'd go and measure, but some tweeker metal thieves stole all my spare 4x4 radiators. :pissed: Tim

coronan
05-03-2016, 08:44 AM
Radiator Dimensions are in Post 8.

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?1841-Reworking-4wd-radiator

robotfist
05-03-2016, 11:27 AM
At $439 for a recore would anyone be interested in an aluminum replacement?

I have a local guy that makes aluminum radiators for race cars, street rods, and odd applications that I could ask for pricing. I'm guessing if we did 4 or 5 at a time it might help with the cost?

I would also be interested in this as well. I don't know much about car repair (learning as I go). What would be the benefit of an aluminum radiator over a high efficiency recore of the old one?

-Derek

timsrv
05-03-2016, 01:22 PM
There's lots of differences and reasons why, but the short answer is aluminum is 30 - 40% lighter, yet will typically last longer while cooling more efficiently. As a material, copper is scientifically proven to transfer heat better, but due to it's softness, it has construction limitations. There is also the problem of different types of materials. Traditional copper radiators are made of dissimilar metals and that leads to "solder bloom (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/timsrv/media/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/Solder%20Bloom_zpseols1lyf.jpg.html)". Solder bloom is an inherent corrosion problem created when dissimilar metals are soldered together. This happens especially where the brass tanks are soldered to the copper core. Since aluminum radiators are 100% aluminum, that means they don't have that issue. Since aluminum is a stronger material, it allows the tubes to be bigger (wider) and closer together. This means a 2 core aluminum radiator can provide as much or more surface area as a 4 core copper radiator. Until recently, aluminum was prohibitively expensive, but new manufacturing techniques and the rising cost of copper are closing/have closed the price gap. Tim

micah202
05-03-2016, 01:30 PM
.


...wow,, hadn't thought aluminum would be -better- :thmbup:

timsrv
05-03-2016, 01:43 PM
It's still a matter of opinion and preference. There's pros & cons to both. Thickness and design of core will also effect efficiency & longevity. If damaged, copper is much easier to repair, and solder bloom can be controlled by regular radiator flushes. For people who neglect their vehicles, aluminum would be the better choice (regarding solder bloom). Aluminum radiators can be repaired, but if/when damaged, replacement is often the better option. It's the weight savings that make aluminum better for race car applications. Tim

robotfist
05-03-2016, 01:58 PM
Thanks for that.

I suppose I am more interested in how well it cools over the weight savings. I was originally searching for someone that could do a high efficiency recore of my current radiator and bump it up from a 2 core to a 3 or 4. My van runs fine when it's 72 degrees and I'm moving. But the second I hit that Los Angeles traffic or the outside temperature starts to climb into the mid 80's, the needle starts to creep up and it eventually starts to toe the red line. I've replaced the water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, etc. I even added an electric puller fan in front of my current radiator. Nothing as worked and nothing has changed. I'm hoping a new radiator will help keep the needle in a comfortable spot no matter the conditions.

timsrv
05-03-2016, 02:07 PM
There are several variables, but you can generally expect aluminum to dissipate the same amount of BTU's while being 30 - 40% lighter.


.........I even added an electric puller fan in front of my current radiator..........

Probably just an error in terminology or wording, but pusher fans get mounted to the front & pullers get mounted to the back. Tim

robotfist
05-03-2016, 02:48 PM
Probably just an error in terminology or wording, but pusher fans get mounted to the front & pullers get mounted to the back. Tim

Yep! Mistake in wording! If not, that would certainly exacerbate the problem!

timsrv
05-03-2016, 02:59 PM
BTW, I've tried aftermarket clutch fans (2 different brands) and did not have good results with either. Rockauto.com has OE Aisin fans for ~$75 and I've had excellent results with those. For more information, check this thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?1725-Fan-fluid-coupling-(fan-clutch). Tim

95-le/sc-all-trac-rip
06-04-2017, 10:25 PM
Hate to bring up an old thread, but does the radiator from a 2wd a/t fit a 4wd a/t? The measurements seem the same.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NRS3275?searchCategory=5.3&searchIndex=App

timsrv
06-05-2017, 04:02 PM
I don't see a Vanwagon listed in your signature......Are you wanting to use one in a Previa? FYI, I believe all automatic Previa radiators are interchangeable, but no Vanwagon radiators will fit (at least not without some serious mods). If you're talking strictly Vanwagons, the 2wd radiator will not readily fit into a 4wd. I've heard it can be done, but the 4wd has a shorter radiator with different mounts (this is needed as the front differential occupies some space where the radiator goes). If you need a radiator for a 4wd Vanwagon, your best option is to go with a quality recore (new 4wd radiators are NLA). Tim

95-le/sc-all-trac-rip
06-09-2017, 07:13 PM
I was referring to a vanwagon tim, but come to find out it was 2wd anyways :(

windsurfvan
06-10-2017, 03:18 PM
SOS off Thread topic ?. I feel like a dunce. Can not seem to find the engine block drain plug on my 88 2wd AT. Found a Previa thread with a pic of it. Is it anywhere near the oil filter side of the block?

Appreciate the help. Thanks

timsrv
06-10-2017, 07:23 PM
Just imagine the worst possible place, and you'll find it there. Here's a link to a post with a picture: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?1266-Coolant-Reservoir-Leak&p=7781#post7781

windsurfvan
06-11-2017, 09:41 AM
Thank you again Tim. In the thread you mentioned that the job is a PITA. If it is a PITA for you, i am in trouble but now i know where it is.

timsrv
06-11-2017, 11:14 AM
On the 2wd you have the alternator, the exhaust manifold, and the motor mount working against you. On the 4wd you can add the front drive shaft (blocks from underneath). Of course the body metal of the engine compartment is close here too, so that's why you need a very specific length socket/extension combination. Tim

liquidlights
07-27-2017, 06:09 PM
All the threads say pull the radiator out from underneath. There is a far easier way to do this. Remove the passenger seat ( 4 bolts, the back closest to the door is a stud , the nut is in the wheel well. Then, Remove the passenger side engine cowl ( a dozen bolts or so) You dont even have to disconnect the transmission shifter, just slide the assembly and cowl aside and the whole engine is open to work on. remove the fan shroud ( two pieces, the bottom unclips and then the top slide out easy). Pull the hoses. Unscrew the two retaining nuts on the bottom and the center bolt on top. And the radiator slides right up and out. Easy Peasy

llamavan
07-27-2017, 08:16 PM
[...]Remove the passenger seat [...] Remove the passenger side engine cowl [...]

And here's the detailed post on how to do that! (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?26-Accessing-the-van-engine!#2)

Gwen

LightBlueToy
08-02-2017, 02:37 PM
I got quoted $459 for a high efficiency recore by a shop in the bay area that seems to have a good reputation. I asked if it has 3 or 4 cores and I think the guy said 2 :cnfsd:. But he went on to say it had more fins per inch or something than the other recore he could do for $379. I am not sure if I should go for it or send out for the Ability in yuba city with known good results. It would be nice and more convenient to deal with someone local. Any thoughts on the efficacy of a 2 core 'high efficiency' radiator in the 4wd van?

Carbonized
12-18-2017, 09:34 PM
Not sure about 2WD's but on a 4WD the condensor is mounted horizontally, ahead of the rad area and the fans blow down.
Can't see how they would do anything to help the radiator cool better.
BB
So AC condenser steals air from engine radiator? Robbing Pierre to pay Paul? Some ducting seams to be called for down there!

timsrv
12-19-2017, 01:00 AM
Toyota used different configurations on different vans. My 89 2wd cargo van and my 86 2wd LE have dual air (front & back) and that system uses 2 condensers. One laying down horizontal and another mounted directly to the front of the radiator. I'm not real crazy about this as the condenser is dumping all that heat directly in front of the radiator. Not like they had a lot of choices for location though (only so much room under the front of these things). IMO not much you can do to improve ventilation unless you get real crazy and put one on the roof or something.

Flecker
09-09-2019, 11:19 AM
Uhm... Hey guys. Anyone want to explore this one more?

https://www.northernfactory.com/AUTOMOTIVE_-_LIGHT_TRUCK/TOYOTA/VAN_-_WAGON/1987

Says they make one for our 4wd vans.

Meh, never mind. I called them and got the patented "We don't sell to the general public, and we don't make those anyways" response.

Has anyone taken the radiator out and let it soak with vinegar inside it for a couple days? I have a feeling mine has some clogged passages in it.

Flecker
09-09-2019, 12:22 PM
I am gonna try it... A vinegar soak for a couple days and see if I can't make this thing flow better. I have pretty much tackled everything else involved in the cooling system, save that.

Worse case scenario, it stays the same and I drive 4 hours to get it dipped and rodded, re-soldered and pressure tested. Or just a new core if they need to.

dom
01-29-2020, 04:42 PM
Is there a reason why this radiator wouldn't work in an 87 4wd MT van?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-2-56185-h/overview/

Size seems alright, will need some brackets to fit the stock holes..

Looking for options - my current rad is not salvageable..

VanCo
01-29-2020, 07:46 PM
I have:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-2-26185-h

It is the predecessor to the part you posted. The new one (that you posted) has a larger tube size, which is better. They are identical, other than the one you listed is .5 inches thicker.

It fits with minimal fabrication. It cools amazingly. I run a turbo on my 4y and in the heat of the summer pulling a trailer up a miles long grade with boost the engine reached a maximum of 215 degrees. It runs 187 otherwise.

dom
01-29-2020, 08:38 PM
That's great news!!

A few questions:

1. How did you mount the rad? Bottom mounts only?
2. What fab was necessary? Just the lower bracket extensions to push the lower brackets out a bit? (I believe the two rad mount holes on the 4WD van are 25" apart)
3. What did you do with the original small diameter hose that enters the radiator?
4. How did you mount the fan shroud? Any modification/cutting necessary to fit the new rad?
5. Did you use adaptors for the oem hoses to fit the larger rad intake/outake ports?

Very excited for this..

VanCo
01-29-2020, 09:19 PM
I made new bottom mounts. Not hard, you'll see.

For years I ran a "friction" type top mount. It was a bolt stabbing a plate of aluminum placed on top of the radiator using the top middle factory bolt hole bent. Later, I welded a mount to the top middle of the radiator to take advantage on that factory mount (probably could be JB Welded).

I use (95% sure):

Upper radiator hose, Dayco/Hose Item# 81061 (stretched on to the radiator)
Lower radiator hose, gates 25532 (I used a hose adapter on the engine side to fit, the hose adapter can be a piece of the old hose, double clamp)

Those are universal hoses, which I don't like, but they work well.

Shroud works with trimming, and creativity

I deleted the small hose. It's fine. It just takes a bit longer to purge the system of air. There is a port on the Griffin radiator but it's on the cold side, and the engine hose is on the hot side. it doesn't work pumping hot coolant into the cold side of the radiator.I just plugged the small hole on the radiator and engine.

All told, it's a relatively easy modification. A welder makes it easier, but it isn't necessary.

Mackd
03-15-2020, 10:23 PM
Hello everyone. What ever became of the aluminum radiators mentioned earlier in this thread? Were they ever made?

timsrv
03-16-2020, 06:15 AM
No, they were not. To find more posts regarding aluminum radiators, search the site using the term "griffin". Tim

Mackd
03-17-2020, 08:55 PM
Thank you Tim. I checked out the post per your suggestion. Have you tried the "griffin" radiators? If so, are you happy with it? Any downside you can think of? Looking forward to hearing back from you or anyone else that has this upgrade installed. Hope to hear from you soon, and I hope everyone is staying safe out there.

Best
MacD

timsrv
03-17-2020, 11:15 PM
I have only used copper thus far. I just remembered Griffin as the name brand others have used. Post your question in one of those threads and previous posters should be notified (and hopefully will respond). Tim

Mackd
03-17-2020, 11:40 PM
Will do. Thanks again Tim.

VanCo
03-18-2020, 03:07 AM
Hello MacD,

I've been using the Griffin radiator for a few years now. I really enjoy it.

Take an look at posts 68-71 of this thread. I provided some good information. There some other posts I've made too in other threads. Take a look, and if you have questions I'll be happy to answer them.

Mackd
03-18-2020, 08:59 PM
That is incredibly nice of you VanCo, I will take you up on that offer when I am ready. I just want to swap out my stock radiator for an aluminum one. I will check out your post and get back to you with questions. Many thanks!

MacD

Jbbishop2
04-02-2020, 05:36 PM
I have:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-2-26185-h

It is the predecessor to the part you posted. The new one (that you posted) has a larger tube size, which is better. They are identical, other than the one you listed is .5 inches thicker.

It fits with minimal fabrication. It cools amazingly. I run a turbo on my 4y and in the heat of the summer pulling a trailer up a miles long grade with boost the engine reached a maximum of 215 degrees. It runs 187 otherwise.


It may not be a critical parameter, but the Summit page for the successor 56185 radiator mentions a 23" width as opposed to the 22" width of the predecessor.

VanCo
04-02-2020, 07:10 PM
It may not be a critical parameter, but the Summit page for the successor 56185 radiator mentions a 23" width as opposed to the 22" width of the predecessor.

I see what you are referring to, however; both radiators are listed as 22" wide in the overview on Summit's site. Not sure why.

The width isn't a big issue 23" will fit fine. There is no room for additional height though.

ghzroy
05-15-2020, 04:04 AM
I have:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-2-26185-h

It is the predecessor to the part you posted. The new one (that you posted) has a larger tube size, which is better. They are identical, other than the one you listed is .5 inches thicker.

It fits with minimal fabrication. It cools amazingly. I run a turbo on my 4y and in the heat of the summer pulling a trailer up a miles long grade with boost the engine reached a maximum of 215 degrees. It runs 187 otherwise.

The one they suggest as a successor/replacement https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/gri-2-56185-h?retaillocation=int .
Will it fit into the 2WD with 2Y engine as well or are there any better options for the non-4WD ones? My rad is dissolving into dust when I touch it... I will check recoring here in Germany as well.

The OEM one I should get seems to be 16400-72070 https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota/model-f-38533/yr20-56660/yr20lg-mq-926445/radiator-water-outlet-17927388#/il-414995064-4459008-4459008 . Of course this is not available i

Thanks!

Carbonized
05-15-2020, 10:55 AM
Fitting a 4wd rad. in a 2wd van is a mater of brackets fabrication. The 2wd is bigger so if you use a 4wd sized rad. you will loose some cooling efficiency. https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?567-Radiators-compared-%97-84-85-86-89-2WD-87-89-4WD)&highlight=radiator+size There are other threads about radiators, more pertinent to the 2WD. Also, try searching with the words "fan" or "shroud" in the non 4WD section.

Here in the US it is not yet a problem to find the 86-89 2WD. I don't know about the 84-85. in any case the cost of shipping would kill you. Your best bet I think is to go by measurement and inlet/outlet size (1st), location (2nd). There as been talk of possible cross matching with VW Sirocco or similar. If you can recore that would be even better, keep it original:thmbup:

Flecker
05-15-2020, 11:30 AM
I called Griffin and ordered this radiator: https://www.griffinrad.com/page6un.php?key_id=2-56185-H&db=universalfitdatabase1&partno=2-56185-H

22 x 13" and it's thick... maybe 3"? The cooling tubes are 1.25" also... about as good as one could expect for cooling in the tight little space allowed.

It's the same as Vanco and the others noted in this thread... inlet/ outlet ports are correct location, as well as the size. Any fabwork seems pretty simple and straight forward. It will require a couple of hose reducers from 1-3/4" to 1-1/4" and another from 1-1/2" to 1-1/4", as well as a couple 1-1/4" straight pipe couplers. I have the ability to weld some aluminum for the top mount, and the bottom mounts look to be just some home brew brackets.

The fan shroud could be made from either trimming the og plastic one, or making a thin gauge metal one from scratch... none of what I am saying is new, this has all been done before and working in other vans with great results.

I tried to rehab my old radiator for quite a while, vinegar baths, flushing with high pressure and etc... and with the 4- 600 dollar quotes for a re-core this direction made a lot more sense! $291, plus tax and free shipping. No brainer.

Flecker
05-22-2020, 12:01 AM
OK... question for those running electric fans.

Heres what I am working with.

10261

I really don't want to hack up the original shroud (I know it could work, but I want to save it along with the old rad in case I ever go back to original- doubtful, but I hoard Toyota parts anyways).

So I am either going to fab up a shroud with some sheet stock to work with the original mechanical fan/ clutch OR just dive in and go for electric fan/s. The shroud for the e-fans is obviously less work to make, but more work on the wiring and fan control end. Question is, who has done it successfully? To be honest, I asked in another group and got little response... which makes me sort of hesitant to go that route.

What have you guys used that actually worked? Flexalite, Spal, offbrand and etc... dual fans, size?

What kind of issues am I looking at with power draw? Will the alt keep up with a potential 20A draw?

Prolly some more things I may have missed... so fill me in! :)

Side note: After I got the rad in and bled air from the system I let it idle for about 15 minutes and monitored the gauge and temp with a temp gun... was the best cooling results to date! So, I decided to take her for a spin... drove for about 20 minutes and the gauge never went above the half way mark. some results with the temp gun were pretty awesome... 185* when I got back and checked. Awesome!

VanCo
05-22-2020, 09:22 AM
That's awesome! Looks great too!

One thing I caution, don't use that coolant nipple plug for any amount of time. They will crack and fail. Especially in the van where the under seat temps are like an oven. I currently have a silicone hose piece with a bolt in it (it's been like that for years). I'm looking into drilling the housing out and tapping it to NPT and using a plug.

Some (not all) of my experience with running an electric fan is documented here:

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?1841-Reworking-4wd-radiator/page3

In short, if you want no hassle cooling stick to the factory mechanical fan. If you want to experiment, fabricate, electrical engineer because it's fun, then go electric.

I really am happy to see another one of these Griffin radiators installed. They really are the best option from the aftermarket.

Flecker
05-22-2020, 06:54 PM
Thanks man...

I am loving it so far! Perfect solution to our non existent 4wd radiator problem, and by far the best improvement I have made yet. Installation was really straight forward like you said... light welding on the brackets (not mandatory, but made it far easier).

Thanks for the heads up on the little cooling plug too. I had an old pack of fittings laying around and just used it, but I could see how it may fail later.

So as for the e-fans, I am still curious... I see quite a few options out there with bolt on applications out of the box for the sirocco radiators. I know, whole nother animal and all but it is tempting. I will prolly just make one for now while I think on it. You think having a turbo and putting a bit more stress on the cooling system made a difference for your conclusion? Worse case scenario I try it and end up back with the mechanical fan I suppose...

VanCo
05-22-2020, 10:37 PM
I have run several different versions (14 inch, 16 inch, 2 10 inch, pushers, pullers shrouds, etc.) of electric fans non turbo over the years. They all work to a point, but the problem is the lack of natural airflow through the radiator at speed. Electric fans are not meant to run continually while at higher speeds. Plus, if the fan is running continually to maintain a given temp any increase in ambient temp will increase the engine temp as well. Add a hill and load to the equation and you're on the side of the road waiting for things to cool down. The best hope to make an electric fan work as it would if it were from the factory is to fabricate ducting to direct high flow natural air into the radiator. I had an idea to make a sort of chin splitter/scoop that was spaced an inch or more from the bottom of the bumper. From there a solid sheet all the way back to the radiator, and box it in (it could double as a skid plate). But then I put the mechanical fan back on and it was amazingly low maintenance and worked so I scrapped the idea.

Flecker
05-22-2020, 11:01 PM
Gotcha... I am like you and the thing see's lots of time off pavement, camping, finding new hunting and fishing spots. I think any time I spent building some ducting might be a waste. Prolly end up having to stop several times and pick up pieces of it. :doh:

So, with that being that, I think I will just fab a shroud and call it good. At the end of the day I want it to just be reliable and fun.

Drongo
06-23-2020, 09:34 AM
Hello from a humble first time thread. Have been reading a lot for couple weeks now (since I started working on the van I got), haven't posted anything before but you guys are incredibly helpful for people. A big thank you to all.

Now let's come to the issue.. I have recored my radiator in a shop in East la, with high reviews. The guy was super cool and all but when I asked him to recore it 4 row high efficiency, he said the radiator didn't have enough space so we ended up recoring 3 rows high efficiency. I got it back and was going to install it this week until I got to a junkyard and salvaged another 4wd radiator.

Listening to Tim, I'm intrigued to get this one recored (or at least try) 4 rows in a different shop. Anyone has any shops in greater LA area?

I might just end up using the 3 row radiator for my van. In that case I will get this other radiator recored and will give it to someone in need in the community. Cheers all!

Hammervan
07-17-2020, 10:18 AM
I had a similar experience where the radiator shop I went to said there wasn't room for a 4-core radiator and the high efficiency 3-core would be better than the stock core. The new 3-core ended up being way worse than the ancient stock radiator that had sprung a leak! I wish I had looked into other options (like the mythical Yuba City 4-core rebuild) but didn't have the time. I ended up installing an aluminum motorcycle radiator in a similar configuration as Tim's heater core setup discussed here (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2759-Cooling-system-Mods) . But my temp still gets up to 220 climbing hills on a hot day :pissed:

Maybe I'll look into the aluminum radiator Flecker shows above, it looks great. I have one question about that setup, it doesn't have the extra hose that goes to the filler neck (where he put the rubber cap) is that just a vent hose that isn't really needed?

VanCo
07-17-2020, 10:33 AM
I have one question about that setup, it doesn't have the extra hose that goes to the filler neck (where he put the rubber cap) is that just a vent hose that isn't really needed?

I have run the Griffin radiator without the vent/purge hose for several years, and 10k plus miles. The hose makes it easier to get the air out of the system, but it isn't necessary. I use one of those spill proof coolant funnels that attaches to the radiator cap flange. It works perfect to get the bubbles out. Just take a bit more time when you're purging it and it is good.

Also, it is possible to weld/or have someone weld a threaded bung to add a vent to the aluminum end tank of the radiator if you really wanted.

Burntboot
07-17-2020, 02:35 PM
Hammer - If, with a new 3-core and the motorcycle rad isnt keeping its cool, you may want to investigate other potential issues.

I too needed a rad and got the same story on the width/4 row situation and I went with their recommendation on the HE3.
I dont have an auxiliary rad or the lower fan shroud but didn't have any further cooling issues.
(everything else in the system was new though)

I'd be hesitant to blame the 3-core unless you have reason to suspect workmanship.
Maybe you have other issues in okay that are complicating matters.

VanCo
07-17-2020, 03:57 PM
I agree with Burntboot

For instance, I was chasing cooling issues for a while on this van. Never overheated, just ran hot. Didn't use coolant, no milkshake. I decided to run a multi layer steel (MLS) head gasket to be more compatible with the cylinder pressures associated with running a turbo. Turns out the gasket I had been running was compromised between the number 4 cylinder and the rear most water jacket. It was barely visible and must have just been introducing super heated gasses into the cooling system. In changing the head gasket I knocked nearly 30 degrees off the temperature from around 215 to 187. The head gasket was the only change. This isn't the first time a head gasket has failed like this on these vans.

I'm not saying it's the head gasket, but it's worth checking everything out.

Hammervan
07-17-2020, 03:58 PM
BB, I've been living with the cooling issue for a few years now and have replaced the head gasket in that interval (whose passing I'd like to blame on the crappy re-cored radiator) plus thermostat, fan clutch etc. so not sure where else to look beyond the rad or pulling out the A/C system or buying a vehicle with a sensibly-located radiator :LOL2:. Vehicle generally runs at 200 degrees unless going up a long grade on a hot day.

Burntboot
07-18-2020, 07:05 AM
There once was a thread on clutch fans, regarding the colour of the hub,
red vs blue was the issue, but the details are a little fuzzy now.

Early in my quest to solve cooling issues, I remember digging thru my spares pile, finding one of the other colour and noticing improved cooling under load, kicks in sooner.
Might be worth looking into?

Last straw in the box seems to be plugged with sludgy debris, hope your water jackets don't have a similar issue
-Tim did a write up on that topic, too.
(But before going there I would double check everything else (again), just in case.)
I dislike tearing down engines, unless I absolutely have too

Carmen San_Diego
07-22-2020, 12:20 PM
I made the scoop that Tim did and that seems to help a bit with the temps unless it's an extremely hot day and I'm going highway speeds for hours. The only bad side effect of that is that all of the scooped air is forcing a lot of the heat into the cabin (through?) the dash cracks. While the AC condenser fan blowing down seemed like a bad setup I'm now wondering after driving a 1200 mile trip if forcing hot air down (and out) isn't such a bad idea. I think that the "hood" and engine area is creating a bubble of hot air that just gets hotter and hotter and rises so even if any does move past the radiator it's super heated. Even with the scoop I'm not convinced there is actually much ventilation happening apart from forcing more hot air up.

I had good success with my old space cruiser(which doesn't overheat even in AZ summers) by removing the engine blanket and replacing it with a thinner doghouse insulation used by hot rods so that there is room for air to move across the top and down. It still retained the AC condenser fan, hence my theory. In my current townace which is running a bit too hot for my liking I plan to reinstall a downward facing fan or cut and put in ventilation grills in the hood similar to what you'd see in a Jeep setup with their bonnet hood air vents depending on the looks. I've also done some research on the waterless coolant though I think i read here or otherwise that the engine would run hotter though temps would be more stable.

trestlehed
07-23-2020, 01:13 PM
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?3145-Extra-engine-cooling&highlight=snorkel


From the above link:
I remember about 5 years ago when I bought my van I was looking at Yotavans.org and the site owner/administrator had an article on a custom mod which was basically a small chimney/snorkel that ran up the passenger side pillar (inside the van) with some small computer type fans to draw excess engine heat directly out of the engine bay. I can't remember if it vented out the roof or out the top side of the van body. I think he did this mod on a 4x4 van that was seeing heavy off-road use. Anyhow, just an idea to research or think about.
(https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?3145-Extra-engine-cooling&highlight=snorkel)

CFielder
11-29-2020, 04:43 PM
Im looking at a small hole on the top of the radiator—just barely a mist but enough to worry about while I’m having the head done. I’m trying to track down a replacement but so far I’m finding that either they just don’t exist or are around 500+ dollars :/

I read through the giant thread where this and the recore solution is addressed in detail but was just wondering if there’s any updates on replacement parts or compatible parts. Does the Duralast A29 really fit? Any other leads / part #s folks can throw at me? Thank you!

In Southern Oregon, in case any angel on here has one for sale...

thepuzzlemaster
12-25-2020, 02:48 AM
I called Griffin and ordered this radiator: https://www.griffinrad.com/page6un.php?key_id=2-56185-H&db=universalfitdatabase1&partno=2-56185-H [ ... ]

Hey Flecker, what van did you install that Griffin radiator in? I'm curious if that'd fit in my 4x4 manual '91 TownAce?

Flecker
12-26-2020, 11:34 AM
I put it in an 87 manual 4x4... I have no experience with the Hiace's, so I can't say whether it would fit or not.

JDM VANMAN
12-29-2020, 12:50 AM
thepuzzlemaster

is your radiator already out of your Townace, do you have measurements. if yours is already out I have a spare one (not for sale) that could be used for side by side comparison.

JDM

Dnice
02-03-2021, 10:57 AM
I have been chasing a mild overheating issue for a while which then turned into a leak from the stock radiator. After, a lot of reading and researching, I decided that a recore would be the way to go. I pulled the rad and found this...
10874
I could literally push my finger through it where it is discolored. Took it to a shop here in San Diego and before the gal at the desk could even get it all the way out of the bag I put it in, the boss walked over and instantly said "oh, Toyota van". He said he had done many of these and informed the gal it was a 3-core (she thought it was a 2-core).
I was impressed to say the least and felt like it was in good hands.
I will report back when complete.

micah202
02-03-2021, 11:07 AM
Ewwwww! <;~0
...When folks start talking of cooling issues,, I always mention to check and even calibrate the thermostat,,, 'simple-first'!!
I once had a brand new OEM thermo I installed in a new rebuild,, that didn't function! I consider it important to put the thermo in a pan of warm water, bring to a boil,, and confirm the temperature it's fully open... I believe that's meant to be 180degrees iirc. The cost of yer engine is well worth the price of a thermometer!

...On the Radiator,,, I believe you can get a 4 layer core in those.... more is better, in this case. <;~]

Dnice
02-03-2021, 04:43 PM
I think the system is good otherwise. Recent fan clutch, new t-stat, etc.
Also old (and presumably stock) thermo was shot, stuck open. Replaced with OEM.
10879
I'm just going 3-core with the rad, keep the cost lower and hopefully will work as new!

JDM VANMAN
02-04-2021, 11:47 PM
It was finally time to swap out the radiator, I’ve been running the van for the last 4-5 years with a mysterious leak that I ended up in swapping out the HoD, Heater return hose, Overflow bottle sensor but I was still having to add fluid (4-6oz) every 700-800 miles. Well then just last week I filled up the overflow bottle and fuel her up to get ready for the work week and went to work for 3 days and on the forth day early in the morning when I was warming up the van the radiator light remained on, I drove down to the gas station lifted the seat and saw the the bottle was almost empty!!!!


I think it was 2018 when I sent my spare radiator down to Ability Radiator for a 4-row H/E recore ( theres a writeup on the experience). The new radiator is about 3/8’ thicker, lower tabs are further apart, and top right mounting hole needed to be rechased with a screw but all in all it went in and fits. Here’s some eye candy-


Found the leak-


https://i.imgur.com/VULY7Y8.jpg




New Manual Transmission 4WD 4-Row H/E


https://i.imgur.com/gQZ2mJK.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/azs1shi.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/4b45H6R.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/9MKW5ve.jpg




I’ll post up the photos of the 34 year old radiator this weekend, I’ll be taking that one to a local shop for a rebuild as well.


JDM

JDM VANMAN
02-06-2021, 06:26 PM
Heres the original radiator that came out


https://i.imgur.com/2qccPab.jpg


Looks like the upper hose side was compromised-


https://i.imgur.com/IZyPEps.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/4lD57lS.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/fdb3EQk.jpg


This radiator will be going in to be tested to see if it’s a good candidate for rebuild.


JDM

Dnice
02-16-2021, 12:45 PM
As an update:
Got a call from the shop less than one week later that it was ready.
I installed the recored radiator (which looked absolutely beautiful BTW), filled it up, let it burp and warmed it up.
AC on blast, driving hard around the neighborhood (some hills and flats) and idling, the gauge never came close to half.
I am beyond stoked and cant wait to go on some fish/surf/hunt trips in the rig.

Ive had this van since 2004(?) and am thankful for the knowledge Ive received from this forum and all the previous ones before.



I have been chasing a mild overheating issue for a while which then turned into a leak from the stock radiator. After, a lot of reading and researching, I decided that a recore would be the way to go. I pulled the rad and found this...
10874
I could literally push my finger through it where it is discolored. Took it to a shop here in San Diego and before the gal at the desk could even get it all the way out of the bag I put it in, the boss walked over and instantly said "oh, Toyota van". He said he had done many of these and informed the gal it was a 3-core (she thought it was a 2-core).
I was impressed to say the least and felt like it was in good hands.
I will report back when complete.

The VANdalorian
06-18-2022, 05:19 PM
Hey Van Friends!

I was taking the van down for the biannual smog a few months back, and wouldn't you know, heat gauge skyrockets!!! By the time I pulled into a parking lot I was leaving a bright green trail and rolling smoke! After a tow back home I found a split hose, quick fix, problem solved! Well, not quite...turns out the radiator split as well. After pulling the radiator, and looking through this thread, the old owner had sent it to Ability in Yuba years back. He later had a pin hole from the push through plastic mounts he used for the electric fans (on pg. 2 of this thread, wonderwagon). Luckily, I live about an hour from Yuba City. So back to Ability she went!

Now, here is the part I felt compelled to share!!! Drop off the radiator to Ability, they look at it, "yeah, its all bad" time to rebuild and..."its gonna be expensive". Heard of inflation, copper and brass prices doubling, tripling... comes back at $790 to recore with a new high eff. 4 row! WHAT!!! I only paid 1K for the van, lol. But damn it I love it, so whats a cool grand between the gas to get to Yuba and back with and a new beautiful rebuilt radiator! I was also given the advice, about the fans mounted through the fins "don't do that again" Victor (the radiator guru) said! Copy that!

2 week turn around, from drop off to pick up. I had to find a new way to mount the electric fans, but after some creative thinking, I used SS cables and crossed them using the old fan shroud mounts. I have to imagine its better than through the radiator. The fans work great, I have them now wired with key power, so they are always pulling and cooling if the van is powered up. New hoses all around, checked the hose of death while she was down...new alternator, re wired my fusible links (all a part of the fan rewire project prior to the radiator going down and some great advice from amazing threads on this site).

Filled with coolant, ran for hours, smashed up and down the freeway, not a drop in sight, van chillin (lol) right about half way up the gauge, and feeling real good about that $800 dropped the Vando!

I thought the forum would be interested to know two things, stay away from push through mounts, lol, and the 2022 price for a recore at the famous Ability, $800 out the door! Take it easy Van friends

PS there is a 4X4 Yota truck show coming to the Wood land fair grounds (Northern California, by Yuba City) in October. I was asked to enter my van...Dont know about that yet, but for those in the area, or wanting to make the trip, I will throw out something official in the "general" page once I get a flier.

11489
time to come out
11490
11491
Radiator rehab
11492
A beautiful thing
11493
Fans mounted...to it, not through it, lol
11494
back in, tested, ready to roll
11495
Worth every cent!

timsrv
06-19-2022, 01:07 PM
I thought that looked like WonderWagon's old van. That van started life as an automatic. He did an enormous amount of work on it. Sadly, most of it was before this website and was documented on Toyotavanpeople.com.... which sadly was not well run/maintained and has been down for the last 5 years or so.

Regarding the cost of radiator work, you are not alone. I just took mine down to my local radiator shop for a high efficiency core. I told the guy to not take shortcuts and I wanted a top notch rebuild. When I asked how much, he said he'd keep it under $1,000.00. WTF! The last one I had done was like $550.......but that was several years ago. Sounds to me like you got a solid deal. Tim

The VANdalorian
06-20-2022, 10:21 PM
That is one very true statement sir! I consider myself a very lucky guy that I get the pleasure of being the next owner of the WonderWagon. After years of searching for the right van, the prices that so many not so great vans sell for, the sorry I just sold it when you call, and the, "I wish I could afford that!" lol. When I came across the WonderWagon for sale, I thought for sure it was too good to be true. After meeting Geoff, and getting the run down of everything he had done over the years...motor swap, 5 speed conversion, cooling system, etc, etc, etc. plus the van came full of spare parts...It was unreal. It had a few kinks to iron out (of course what 30 year old vehicle wouldn't) and I got the pleasure of getting it into the CA DMV system, love that smog check! I really enjoy this van, getting to put my touch on it (spending 10 times what I paid...at least...so far! lol). I hope that Geoff knows how much I appreciate everything he did, most of all parting ways with this beautiful van and letting me take a ride! I am truly thankful Geoff!

I'm with you Tim...I felt like in today's market, for the real deal rebuild, $800 was a quick and easy yes :yes: