Lifted All Trac Previa

[timsrv]

I did some searching for a pre-fabbed lift kit, but could find nothing for the Previa. Since I have some experience as a tool maker and fabricator, I decided to build my own. Since the tire size is limited by the front struts, I decided that 2" would be about right for this project. Here are some pictures and details:

I decided it would be easier to modify existing strut mounts than to build something from scratch, so I went to http://www.rockauto.com and found one their famous "close-out" sales on Previa strut mounts. I ordered 4 of these for only about $20 each. Here's what I got.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9301.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9302.jpg

The idea is to stack the strut mounts and weld them together. If this is going to work, then this bearing must be removed from the top mount (I'll need enough room to get a socket and extension down in there to install the strut mounting nut). This bearing is pressed in and also has a metal lip crimped in over the edge of it.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9303.jpg

Here is my answer to getting rid of that crimped metal that's holding the bearing in place.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9304.jpg

Here's what's left after 5 minutes with a die grinder.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9305.jpg

Now bearing can be driven out of mount.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9308.jpg

Okay, bearing's gone. That's it for the top mount.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9309.jpg

Lower mount doesn't need these 3 studs, so using a socket and a vise I press them out.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9310.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9311.jpg

Okay, that's it for the lower mount.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9312.jpg

Now it's time to do some shopping at the steel yard. I take the mounts with me and snoop around in the scrap pile. I find the perfect diameter and wall thickness, and have the metal guy cut me 2 pieces, each one 1 7/8" long.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9315.jpg

Burs are removed from the tubing and I use a wire wheel to remove paint from the places I want to weld on the strut mounts. Mounts are stacked together with metal tubing then clamped for welding. I use a hammer to gently tap parts into perfect alignment. Here we are ready to weld.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9318.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9320-1.jpg

Here's where the Tim's RV welding van comes in handy!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/WeldWgnBackR.jpg

:weld:To avoid overheating and damaging bearing, I decided to stitch weld and to cool after every 2 or 3 segments. This should be plenty strong.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9328.jpg

And here's the finished strut mounts after painting. These will lift the front exactly 2" higher than stock.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9359-1.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9362-1.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9363-1.jpg

Next I put the Previa on jack stands and remove the struts. Here is one ready to have the new mount installed.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a020.jpg

Spring compressor tools are a MUST. People have been seriously injured by removing mount nuts without 1st compressing and securing the spring.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a021.jpg

Once spring tension has been removed from the mount, the nut can be removed. Note: Strut should be laying on the ground aiming away from you and others (just in case the spring compressors slip). It's better to have parts flying sideways at ground level then to have things flying up toward your face :yikes: .
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a022.jpg

Here's the strut sporting it's new extended mount.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a023.jpg

Here's the top of the strut with the nut securing it to the new mount. That old bearing hole gave plenty of access for a socket and extension!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a024.jpg

Putting the extended strut and mount back on was a little more difficult. Things didn't want to line up due to the increased articulation of the A-arm. I was able to get the bottom bolt in by hand, then using a big C-clamp I forced things into position and installed the top bolt. Due to my concern of adversely affecting camber, after top bolt is pushed through, I tightened clamp more until bolts are pinched, then tightened nuts. This is not enough to compensate, but I'll take what I can get.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a028.jpg

Here's what you can see of my mounts after installed.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a029.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a030.jpg

Look at this unloaded lift!!!!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a031.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a032.jpg

Okay, so there's a problem. This extra lift has made my inner flexible brake lines too short. I have my buddy at Napa look these up, take note of the specs, then find a new line that's 2" longer. No dice on the 2" longer, but he finds ones that are 1 3/4" longer!!! This is so cool! I'll take 2 please!:thmbup:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a035.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a036.jpg

Note the wire tie holding my ABS sensor wire to the old screw mount. The nut plate and the screw part of the clamp are still attached to the wire harness, but I am not using these now. Length is okay with wire like this. Wheels can now be turned from stop to stop without interference on brake lines or ABS sensor wires.:clap:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a037.jpg

Okay, brakes are bled, front tires put back on, front is done!


Time to do the back. I figured the best way to raise the back is to find longer springs, so I ordered a Moog catalog and started searching based on inside diameter, length, and gauge of spring. There is some guess work involved, and of course, a perfect match is illusive. A couple of springs come close to what I want. One is 3/4" shorter than what I want, but the gauge of the spring is about 10% bigger. The other is about 2" too long and also about 10% bigger gauge. I could get the longer ones and cut them down, or get the shorter ones and hope for the best. Well, I opt for the shorter ones and cross my fingers. The shorter ones are stock replacement coil springs for the front of a 65 Ford Mustang with a 6 cylinder engine. This is good news because this is a popular classic car and springs should be readily available. I go to http://www.rockauto.com and sure enough, I find my springs. I go with the Husky brand part # RC8088. These only cost $56 for the pair.

So, with the Previa on jack stands (weight supported by rear axle) I remove the wheels and shocks and take a measurement.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9883.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9884.jpg

Next I disconnected the LSP & BV (Load Sensing Proportioning & By-pass Valve) linkage, support the rear of the van using the jack points and drop the rear end. There is enough articulation for me to remove the old springs by hand (no spring compressor needed). Here is an old spring next to a new one.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9885.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9886.jpg

Spring compressor is needed to install new springs.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9887.jpg

Springs are installed and jack is put back under the rear differential. I jack van up until weight is again supported by differential. Measurements are taken again. YES! the gamble paid off. New height is exactly 2" higher than before!!!:dance1:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9888.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9889.jpg

Okay, so I go shopping for longer shocks. Bad news, nobody makes this type of shock that's 2" longer:(:. Well fine, I'll modify some Monroe Gas Matics.

Shock extenders would make the shocks too long, so I made my own extenders. The threads don't go far enough to do what I want, so I use a 3/8-16 die to cut some more threads. I purchased some 3/8-16 coupling nuts from the hardware store. I measured the nuts, then cut threads deep enough to position the bottom of the nut exactly 2" down from the shoulder on the shock.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9803.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9796.jpg

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http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9799.jpg

Now that the threads are cut, I measure and cut off the excess shock bolt. The objective is to have the threaded portion of the shock fill 1/2 of the coupling nut.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9800.jpg

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http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9810.jpg

Here is some 3/8-16 threaded rod I picked up from the hardware store. I cut off a piece and thread it into the other end of the coupling nut.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9811.jpg

I use double nuts to get a firm grip for tightening. This is nice because it won't damage the threads like a vice or vice grip would.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9814.jpg

I measure and cut to the same length of the old threaded area.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9816.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9818.jpg

Here's the extended shock next to the stock shock.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9822.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9823.jpg

And here's my new extended pair of Previa shocks.:thmbup:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9827.jpg

Okay, so the Previa has a LSP & BV (Load Sensing Proportioning & By-pass Valve). The LSP & BV's job is to increase braking power to the rear wheels when there are heavy loads in the van. As the weight increases, the suspension becomes more loaded and the rear end moves closer to the body. As this happens, the LSP & BV linkage pushes the arm of the valve up, and the LSP & BV allows more brake fluid to flow to the rear brakes. Due to the position of the valve linkage on the suspension arm, using math (and a little guess work), I determined that a 2" lift requires the LSP & BV linkage to be adjusted .78" higher to compensate.

1st thing is to unclip the top of the spring retainer.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9891.jpg

Next thing is to loosen the jam nut at the bottom of the lower spring retainer. I was careful not to move the lower nut so I have a point of reference.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9892.jpg

After adjusting (extending) the linkage .78", top spring retainer is reclipped, and jam nut is threaded back up the rod and tightened against the adjustment nut.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_9899.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a003.jpg

Okay, so there's one last thing. I was going to ignore this, but the thought of bottoming out and shoving a shock through the floor made me reconsider. Considering the increased stiffness of the rear springs, I doubt this would happen, but decided to drop the rubber snubbers just in case. This is a simple task, and all I did was cut some pieces of 2" steel tubing and drill some holes in it. I used these pieces as spacers for the snubbers. The hardware store had some metric bolts the right length, so installation was easy. Here's some pictures of this mod.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a008.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a010.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a012.jpg

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http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a019.jpg


So I finished it all and took it off of jack stands tonight. Here is the height from the concrete to the bottom of the passenger door area.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a045.jpg

Here is the height of the front bumper.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_a047.jpg

New clearance of left front tire.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_0065.jpg

New clearance of left rear tire.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_0066.jpg

I drove it around the yard and it rides nice. 2" isn't very much, but it's very noticeable. I am still a little concerned about the camber issue as I don't see an adjustment for that on the van. I'll be taking it in for an alignment next, and I'll consult with the alignment guy. I may end up doing a few more mods to get that within specs and I will post this information here as it becomes available. Tim

[timsrv]

Good news! Alignment is done and van is within specs! I took the van into Les Schwab for an alignment today & was lucky enough to get a seasoned tech. He tried several things to get the alignment to fall within specs (camber being the problem). Finally after all else failed, he put 1/2-13 grade 8 bolts into the upper position on the lower strut mount (original bolt was almost double that diameter). Then with both nuts loose, and full weight of van resting on tires (tires being on the sliding pads), he tightened these mount bolts back up. When checking the camber after that, he found the passenger side was dead on, and the driver's side was at .7 off. Out of curiosity I jumped in the driver's seat and had him check it again. With my weight on the driver's side, this brought both sides to .2 off (well within specs)! I needed to run some errands afterward and drove the van about 50 miles. I am very happy with the ride and it goes down the road nice and straight. After going through this, I can say with confidence that 2" lift is the maximum a Previa can be raised in this manner (without other complications). I am definitely glad I did this and I'm enjoying this van much more than before. Here are a couple of pics of the PS side lower strut mount with the smaller bolts in the upper position. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_0075.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_0080.jpg

[timsrv]

I played around with loading and comparing the Previas today. I put 1,000 lbs (half ton) of pellets in each one and compared performance of each. All things are not exactly equal because the one I raised is a 91 All-Track, and the one I'm comparing to is a 93 2wd. They are both LE models however and both have the 15" rims and same size tires. The pictures below pretty much tell the story, but I wanted to add the 91 with the 65 mustang springs on the back carried the load much more comfortably and stable. The 91 still had some suspension left and the ride was nice. The 93 however was bottomed out on the rubber bumpers and every bump was harsh. Enjoy the pictures......(I hope you don't have dial-up.......sorry if you do). Tim


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/01mt91.jpg


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http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/03mt9193.jpg

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http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/06mt91.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/07mt93.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/08mt91.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/09mt93.jpg

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http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/13loaded91.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/14loaded93.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/15loaded91.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/16loaded93.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/17loaded91.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/18loaded93.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/19loaded91.jpg
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http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/21loaded93.jpg

[timsrv]

Well I've been concerned about the drive angles of my front axles and stress on my CV joints, so today I decided to take a look to see what I could do about that. I thought this would be a fairly big project so the plan for today was only to get underneath to survey and take a few measurements. I figured the best solution was to lower the front differential but I'd probably need to design and make some special parts. As it turned out the job was super simple and I was able to complete the whole job right away with just basic hardware available at my local hardware store!

Here is one of the front differential mounts........there are 3 of these.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/01stockmount.jpg

Here's the hardware required to do the job: 3 bolts 10mm diameter X 1.25 pitch X 110mm long & a box of 3/8 X 2" fender washers.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/02boltsandwashers.jpg

All I had to do was replace the factory mount bolts with the longer bolts and stack the washers on top of the mounts :P .
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/03loweredmount.jpg

I also got some longer bolts to remount the mount protectors (mini skid plates). The little bolt on top is an old bolt, the other 8 are new 8mm diameter X 1.25 pitch X 50mm long.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/04coverbolts.jpg

I used some 1/2" nuts as spacers and reinstalled the little skid plate protectors.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/05finishedmount.jpg

The limiting factor in lowering the differential was the proximity of the CV joint to the support brace. I was able to drop the whole differential down about 1 & 1/16". This left about 1/4" clearance between the CV joint and the brace.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/06cvjointclearance.jpg

I only shimmed the rear mount about 7/8" This is so the u-joint would have a straighter shot at the differential. Here's a front view of the finished project.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/07jobcomplete.jpg

As I hoped, lowering the front differential drastically reduced the drive angle for the front axles. It made very little difference to the angle of the front drive shaft. The severe angle of the axles had me a little nervous before, but now I feel much better. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0080.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0557.jpg

[timsrv]

Okay, so I have one more project to do to make this job complete. After getting the front drive-line and front axle geometry squared away I started thinking about my rear drive-line. A 2" lift probably isn't enough to warrant great concern, but I'm a stickler for details and I don't like the universal joints working any harder than they need to. I took a look under the van and decided that drive-line geometry could be improved by rotating the pinion upward. Since raising the van brought the rear axle slightly forward, I decided lengthening the upper control arms would be the best and easiest way to compensate and would raise the pinion at the same time. I'm all for killing 2 birds with one stone, so lengthening these arms is now the task.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_1007.jpg

Here's an arm after removal. The math is a little bit tricky on just how much to add, plus I'm not 100% sure how far I can go before the shocks hit. I'd really hate to go through this more than once, so I decide adjustable is the best way to go.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0989.jpg

I found these adjustable links at a our local farm store. They are used to adjust 3 point hitches on tractors. These are actually pretty close to what I want and could almost be used as-is. The holes on the ends are the right diameter even, but the overall maxed-out length is too short. It's probably for the best as there would most likely be some noise transmission without the rubber insulators like the stock arms have. If I could have found them in the correct length, I might have just put them on and used some washers on each side of the eyes, but that is not to be. Okay, here's a link to these links (get it?....link to links?:roflmao::slap:): http://www.doitbest.com/Tractor+Parts+and+Accessories-Speeco+Farmex-model-01090900-TL199-doitbest-sku-759588.dib
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0990.jpg

Some more pics:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0991.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0993.jpg

Before I move on I need to establish a way to hold things still and in the correct position. I make a crude jig out of some scrap aluminum and a piece of 2 X 4.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0994.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0995.jpg

Now for some cutting
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0997.jpg

More cutting
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0998.jpg

Parts secure and ready to weld!:weld:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_1000.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_1001.jpg

After welding
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_1002.jpg

Cleaned up and ready for paint
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_1003.jpg

Painted and assembled to stock length with anti-seize compound on the threads
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_1004.jpg

In playing around with these I found that 10 rotations of the body = 1" of travel. After installation I found 4 complete turns was the magic number, so that means .4" longer control arms puts my pinion & drive-line at the optimum angle. It's a good thing too because even one more turn would cause my shocks to hit! Here they are installed, adjusted, and locked into place.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_1008.jpg

And here's the end result:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_1005.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_1009.jpg

:dance1::dance1::dance1::dance1::dance1::dance1::d ance1::dance1:

[gushaman]

WOW TIM! I am impressed, once again. Toyota couldnt (didnt) do it better themselves.

[mountainhick]

What a great mod! I want to do this. I had a 91' 5 speed years ago, but stupidly let it go. Just picked up a 94 AWD day before yesterday. Do you know whether the suspension is the same and parts for modification the same for a 94?

Thanks

[timsrv]

I have no experience with anything newer than 93, but I suspect all the suspension parts are the same. Good luck & have fun :wnk:

[mountainhick]

I have no experience with anything newer than 93, but I suspect all the suspension parts are the same. Good luck & have fun :wnk:


Thanks Tim,

I am looking at parts listed for the two and finding the same part numbers, so looks like a go. Any reason in particular you chose the Husky coils? They are not available at Rockauto, they are elsewhere, but but Moog 8088 are available at Rock. If I can order from one place, so much the better.

[timsrv]

I wasn't completely sure these would work when I ordered so I got the cheapest ones I could find ($56 for the pair). I got them at www.rockauto.com. They must have sold out. Moogs are probably better. If I were doing it again I'd probably get the Moogs too. Tim

[Metrocruiser]

Hello, I am new to this forum and have learned a lot in my short time here. Thank you Tim. I am researching SADS replacement options. Afterwards I could not stop myself from reading more and more into the wee hours of the night. I am very impressed with the 2" lift and the mods you fabbed to make your drive line straight and tight. Well done!!! Would you consider pre fabbing some lift kits for the prevs?

[timsrv]

Thanks for the kudos :). I actually had thought about building kits and selling them, but unless I sold a lot, the price would be steep...........and then there's the liability issues. BTW, for any of you thinking about doing this, the purpose of this thread is only to show off my rig. I am not suggesting anybody else try it. Anybody using this information for anything other than entertainment does so at their own risk. How's that for a disclaimer? :LOL2: Tim

[mountainhick]

Hey Tim,

For rear control arms, what do you think about just cutting the shaft, jigging for 0.4" longer and welding some angle to splint the shaft rather than making them adjustable?

[timsrv]

Yeah, if I had known .4 was the magic number (and the maximum I could go), that's probably what I would have done. I only did it this way due to unkowns and variables. Tim

[mountainhick]

Yeah, if I had known .4 was the magic number (and the maximum I could go), that's probably what I would have done. I only did it this way due to unkowns and variables. Tim

Cool. That'll be simpler to jig up and weld.

[mountainhick]

My van is lifted! My buddy just happened to have one of these, which I borrowed:

1085

Made the strut work that much easier and gave me a head start compressing the rear springs before adding these:
1086

To install the rear springs.

Still have to take care of a bunch of the other details, especially front end camber looks BAD!!!

But a good days work today!

Front looks a good bit higher than yours Tim, which makes no sense to me. 2" lift in the strut mounts, just like you did them. Used the same srpings on new struts. I'll take a measurement tomorrow.

[timsrv]

I demand to see pics! The camber looked bad on mine too, but the 1/2" bolt in each of the lower strut mounts was enough to make it fall within specs. Here's the details on how that came about:


Good news! Alignment is done and van is within specs! I took the van into Les Schwab for an alignment today & was lucky enough to get a seasoned tech. He tried several things to get the alignment to fall within specs (camber being the problem). Finally after all else failed, he put 1/2-13 grade 8 bolts into the upper position on the lower strut mount (original bolt was almost double that diameter). Then with both nuts loose, and full weight of van resting on tires (tires being on the sliding pads), he tightened these mount bolts back up. When checking the camber after that, he found the passenger side was dead on, and the driver's side was at .7 off. Out of curiosity I jumped in the driver's seat and had him check it again. With my weight on the driver's side, this brought both sides to .2 off (well within specs)! I needed to run some errands afterward and drove the van about 50 miles. I am very happy with the ride and it goes down the road nice and straight. After going through this, I can say with confidence that 2" lift is the maximum a Previa can be raised in this manner (without other complications). I am definitely glad I did this and I'm enjoying this van much more than before. Here are a couple of pics of the PS side lower strut mount with the smaller bolts in the upper position. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_0075.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_0080.jpg

[mountainhick]

I had a reply from chm1129 at the yahoo group that it will change when it rolls. That will be a while, I still have the tranny/transfer swap to do and some other stuff.

I hesitate to do what you did with the 1/2 bolt. Very rough dirt roads here and I'd feel much better with the hole filled rather than any possibility of the alignment shifting due to some kind of road shock.

Here are pics though:

[timsrv]

Wow, My camber never looked that bad.........but yes the height will drop a bit and the camber will also change some (for the better) when it rolls. About the bolt, I was a bit skeptical as well but considering the thickness/strength of the strut in that area, even just one strut bolt would carry more than the strut could handle.........so I'm good with it.

I used my Previa for a back-up business rig for a year and put some miles on it with a 1,500 lb load inside. We also drive on rough surfaces while towing a trailer and occasionally hit hard/bottom out. At some point I knocked the driver's front wheel out of whack & you could visibly see the camber was off (the opposite of your current problem). I took it in and they aligned it again. So far it's stayed good. My struts were old at the time but I reused. Now they are starting to clunk, so I'll likely be replacing them soon. I don't think it's related to the lift, probably just time. Tim

[timsrv]

You know, there's a guy over on the Yahoo Previa group doing this same mod. I think he goes by "previahawk" :) :wnk:. Tim

[mountainhick]

Yep. Soy yo, c'est moi, I it is.

[mountainhick]

Finally had my first trip to town after the lift and trans/trans transplant and had the alignment done today. The guy has a ton of experience with lifted vehicles and did a nice job. I had a pair of the MOOG offset bolts which didn't quite do it, and he slotted the strut holes just a bit to have adjustment range within spec. The castor is slightly out which is not adjustable on the Previa so he compensated slightly with camber, all still right in spec range. Tracks great on the highway.

Now to work out the tapping sound and airbag warning light on :doh:

[TheMAN]

tim, you can always buy eccentric camber bolts or get the OEM Toyota camber adjustment bolts (smaller bolts) that were specific to the 94-99 Previas, but they fit perfectly in the 90-93... I had to do this to correct the camber in mine... someone the frame got tweaked and one side had too much negative camber and the other side had too much positive camber.... the bolts look exactly like the beefy factory bolts and are the same strength, so they should be very safe!

[timsrv]

I actually got the eccentric bolts & tried those 1st, but sadly they were not enough to compensate. The 1/2" grade 8 bolts did the job.........but just barely. So far they've held up well & I've put them through extreme service.

[timsrv]

I just found this page on the internet: http://zenseeker.net/Previa/PreviaSuspension.htm. There's a spot they show modifying the struts by welding an extension to the lower mount (rather than building the spacers like I did). I had briefly considered this when I lifted mine, but was a bit concerned about welding so close to the gas charged portion. Anyhow, looks like their method is sound & the best part is you could run bigger tires. Tim

[TheMAN]

I saw that guy's thread on the *other* board a while ago, but I didn't know he made that huge page for those mods! lol

[timsrv]

FWIW, The main mission here at TVT is to support/preserve the van & freely share all resources with enthusiasts. All members are encouraged to freely link other sites that will help us achieve this. If there is another site you wish to mention by all means please do :yes: :thmbup:. I was very impressed with the zenseeker site. Was the other board www.toyotavanpeople.com? Tim

[Edlocke]

Hi Guys...I'm new to the board. hey! I've got a 1995 white with Tan leather interior all-trac. It's my 2nd Previa. I loved my 1st one but it was only RWD.
im just completing a 1 1/2" lift up front. It saves a lot of effort putting everything back together and getting things to line up. 2" is great but that extra 1/2" really puts a lot of strain on the angles.
i'll keep ya posted what my alignment guy says.
Long live the Previa :)>:

[zepedrorusso]

Hello .... You said that if we just lift 1 1/2 inch there is no major problemas with the angles ?

About the brake hoses ? Must to be changed too ?

I must to lift it if I want to stay with the Previa traveling in all Brazil .... Thanks a lot!



Hi Guys...I'm new to the board. hey! I've got a 1995 white with Tan leather interior all-trac. It's my 2nd Previa. I loved my 1st one but it was only RWD.
im just completing a 1 1/2" lift up front. It saves a lot of effort putting everything back together and getting things to line up. 2" is great but that extra 1/2" really puts a lot of strain on the angles.
i'll keep ya posted what my alignment guy says.
Long live the Previa :)>:

[mountainhick]

Hello .... You said that if we just lift 1 1/2 inch there is no major problemas with the angles ?

About the brake hoses ? Must to be changed too ?

I must to lift it if I want to stay with the Previa traveling in all Brazil .... Thanks a lot!


I did 2" lift. I did not change the brake lines. It is fine

With 2" lift the angles make it difficult to put it together-hard to bolt strut to steeing knuckle with strut at full extension. But, when the vehicle is on the ground and the vehicle weight compresses the strut it is all fine at 2"

Also, alignment needs more adjustment, either smaller diameter bolt like Tim did, or cam bolt plus some grinding of the hole on the strut, like my alignment guy did, but both methods work fine.

[zepedrorusso]

mountainhick (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/member.php?921-mountainhick)

You did not mentioned how you lifted it ... like Tim ? But just small ? Best !:LOLabv:

[mountainhick]

Yes, I did the "Tim" lift. 2"

I am changing it now: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2660-Front-strut-coilover-project-to-allow-taller-tires

Please start reading at post #10. I started work on top spacers today. I will be posting the work to that thread.

[jckiser23]

Hey Tim,

What is the size and spring rate of the new rear springs? Were the springs alone enough to add 2" lift to the rear?

Thank you

[timsrv]

Everything I know/remember is all right there in post #1 (just go back and read it). Tim

[jckiser23]

Everything I know/remember is all right there in post #1 (just go back and read it). Tim

First let me say I am super impressed and grateful for your pioneering, and I am attempting to get all the parts together to start the project but since there are not after market lift kits (which give 2" lift while improve the ride as a new spring and shock would) this seems to be the way to go, However, I would like to know exact dimensions before I buy, obviously. Even finding stock previa spring rate, spring size, and other info is pretty tough to find on the web. At least I would have base numbers to go off of.

There is no info on the new rear spring written down. I see they are measured next to the old ones but its hard to tell, are they 15 1/4"?
Also what was the spring rate ballpark?

Any help would be appreciated,
Thank you
Jonah

[timsrv]

Please keep in mind when I posted this thread 7 years ago, it was already 3 or 4 years old (I did a copy/paste from my post at www.toyotavanpeople.com when we started this site). It's not that I don't want to help, it's simply been over 10 years and I don't remember details (I actually had to go back and read to see what info I put there). In going back I see that along with comparative info, I also gave brand, part number, and application (it's right there in post #1). I may not have posted all available information about the springs, but all it took was about 2 minutes to google/come up with the following links:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=200852&cc=1333369&jsn=438

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1022469&cc=1333369&jsn=440

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=440101&cc=1333369&jsn=439

It was a fun mod and IMO was much needed for people who may want to take their Previas off road. Although the sprngs are only 1 1/4" longer than the stock coils, they are bigger gauge and do not compress as far (thus giving a full 2" lift). No other mods are required on the rear except I'd recommend adjusting your proportion valve and perhaps adding the bump stops (all covered on page 1). If I were to do this again, I'd probably use Sienna struts or go with the way mountainhick did his. The way I did it in this thread will not allow larger tires (at least in the front), theirs will. If you search the forum I'm sure you can find the other threads on this. Good luck. Tim

[jckiser23]

Please keep in mind when I posted this thread 7 years ago, it was already 3 or 4 years old (I did a copy/paste from my post at www.toyotavanpeople.com (http://www.toyotavanpeople.com) when we started this site). It's not that I don't want to help, it's simply been over 10 years and I don't remember details (I actually had to go back and read to see what info I put there). In going back I see that along with comparative info, I also gave brand, part number, and application (it's right there in post #1). I may not have posted all available information about the springs, but all it took was about 2 minutes to google/come up with the following links:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=200852&cc=1333369&jsn=438

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1022469&cc=1333369&jsn=440

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=440101&cc=1333369&jsn=439

It was a fun mod and IMO was much needed for people who may want to take their Previas off road. Although the sprngs are only 1 1/4" longer than the stock coils, they are bigger gauge and do not compress as far (thus giving a full 2" lift). No other mods are required on the rear except I'd recommend adjusting your proportion valve and perhaps adding the bump stops (all covered on page 1). If I were to do this again, I'd probably use Sienna struts or go with the way mountainhick did his. The way I did it in this thread will not allow larger tires (at least in the front), theirs will. If you search the forum I'm sure you can find the other threads on this. Good luck. Tim


Yes my plan is to do mountainhicks way in the front, your way in the back. I have been looking at a lot of forums the last few days piecing it all together. Thank you so much for the rear spring info I believe that was the last bit of knowledge I needed to get started!

Also are Sienna struts better performance wise? or is it just because they are longer? I planned on cutting the strut plates I have now since they're new(er) the way mountainhick did to allow for larger tires.

[timsrv]

Better? I have no idea.........pros and cons regardless. I guess you'd need to ride in each one to determine if there's a difference in performance/comfort. Either way will allow larger tires. Here's a thread where tbuyan uses Sienna struts: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?3556-Have-Previa-Will-Lift

[phildabear]

Hi! new to this forum as I just bought a 1991 toyota previa. I am interested in lifting mine and I found this kit online. However I never saw it mentioned in this thread. Anyone have any experience with it?

http://journeysoffroad.com/toyota-previa-lift-kits.html

[timsrv]

That is mentioned in post #47 of this thread: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2660-Front-strut-coilover-project-to-allow-taller-tires. Not much more information there regarding the kit, but that thread is a good read for anyone wanting to attempt this. Tim

[Dsmtalontsi]

I have a 94 LE Alltrac n/a. Did the 2" lift with sienna struts, mustang springs, and added threads to kyb rear shocks.


Just yesterday I felt something different when I pulled into my parking spot. Got out and saw that my rear left shock was broken right at the coupler for the allthread. 12427 12428


Now I'm searching all the different options for replacements without having to modify the threads to get the correct length so they don't clunk over bumps from fully extending, and also have that weak point where it broke.


Do these shocks with the dogbone in the eyelit work well? KYB 343131 12426
Can i cut and press that dogbone out and use bushings from my broken shock? They seem to have over an inch more extension and about the same compression as the stock Monroe.


I just ordered some stock Monroe from oreilly to put on the van to get me by until I figure out the best solution.