Overdrive issues

[Cornato]

I'm having problems with it kicking into overdrive and I talked to a local toyota mechanic and he said, the thermo is stuck open so the engine is abnormally cold not allowing the temperature sensor to register right, which has to be a certain temperature to allow the overdrive switch engage.

So I blocked off almost all of the radiator from receiving any air flow and drove pretty far on a decent day (mid 70's), and no change. What does this indicate?

[timsrv]

That indicates a problem with the overdrive system (not the cooling system). Keep in mind the OD system should engage at 55 deg C (131 deg F) so even a stuck open engine thermostat will allow the van to warm up enough to activate the system. If your heater works correctly (blows hot air) then your coolant temp is definitely above 55 deg C.

When the van fails to go into overdrive, the 1st thing to do is check the 7.5A fuse in the top center of your fuse box:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0366-1.jpg

This fuse also supplies power to your gauges and some of your warning lights, so if that stuff works then it's probably not it, but it's easy to check so you should check it anyhow.

If the fuse checks good take off your center console and inspect all of the wires in this area. Make sure they are all connected securely and free of damage. Note: shorted or grounded wire(s) in this area can prevent your OD from working, so make sure the wires have separation (not pinched together) and make sure the wire insulation is intact with no exposed copper. Pay particular attention to the blue/white wires and the little blue box that sits up in front of the shifter (under the console cover). That box is your overdrive relay (on 2wd vans only). Note: the 4wd van has a slightly different / more complicated OD system, but since yours is a 2wd we'll stick to 2wd for the sake of this discussion.

Here's the relay used on 2wd vans:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0340.jpg

Here's the harness that goes to the switch:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0342.jpg

Make sure it's hooked up to this plug coming from the shift mechanism. Note: two of the wires inside this black protective tube are the OD switch wires. Since the switch side wires (actual wires coming from the shift lever switch) are subject to change color, always identify them by tracking them up to the shift lever or identify by the wire color on the "van side" of the harness. The colors on the harness are wht/blk & orange. One thing worth noting. The switch does not turn-on the OD (it actually limits it). Electrically speaking, when the switch is closed, the OD will not work and the "O/D OFF" indicator light will illuminate. When the switch is open, the "O/D OFF" light will go out and the van will be free to shift into OD (assuming there are no other issues).
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0344.jpg


If the relay and wires in this area are hooked up and look good, then remove the passenger seat, peal back the carpet and remove the big engine access panel (Instructions on how to remove are covered HERE (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?26-Accessing-the-van-engine!)). Once off you will have access to your OD thermo switch.

Here is it's location:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2110.jpg

The thermo switch is N/C (Normally Closed). When the van is cold (less than 55 deg C) it grounds out the OD circuit preventing the transmission from shifting into OD. Once the coolant temp hits 55C the switch opens and that enables the OD circuit. Because of the way Toyota set it up it's easy to bypass the thermo switch. All you need to do is unplug the gray harness connector to the thermo switch and that's it! If the thermo switch is the problem, then the OD system will now be active.

If disconnecting the thermo switch doesn't work, then you'll need to check the OD solenoid on the transmission. It's on the drivers side of the tranny here:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0354.jpg

It is grounded through the transmission and is activated by a single wire. Here is where that wire connects to the harness:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0357.jpg

And here is the connector position when installed in the van:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0360.jpg

Before you get involved with testing components make sure the solenoid is in good physical condition and verify it's hooked up to the van wire harness. Trace the wires as far as you can to verify there's no physical damage to them either.

If you are unable to resolve the problem at this point, let me know and I'll walk you through component level troubleshooting. Tim

[timsrv]

Question: is the "OD off" indicator on your cluster illuminated? If so that would indicate a shorted switch or shorted wires to the switch. If that's the case then the 1st thing I'd do is disconnect the switch harness (the one shown in pics 3 & 4) and see if the light goes off. If it does, then test drive the van with it disconnected to see if it shifts. Tim

[theschnell]

I had a 90 4-runner that was doing the same thing. It seemed to get up to temp according to the gage, and my heat was definitely blowing warm. I changed the thermostat and it shifted into overdrive. How high was your temp gage when you blocked the radiator? I just want to confirm that it can happen like your mechanic said. My temp gage after the thermostat change was went from about 4/5ths to half way up.

[timsrv]

I'm not sure what temp the 4 runner ODs are supposed to kick in, but suspect they would be the same as the van. 131 deg F isn't very hot (heater would only blow warm). Perhaps your thermo switch was messed up??? By messed up I mean off a bit (like maybe it wasn't kicking in until 180 deg or so). The t-stat on my work van got stuck open and I drove it for almost a year before replacing it. OD would always kick in by the 2nd mile after a cold start. Tim

[Cornato]

Ok, great post. Thanks a lot. :thmbup:

I just checked the fuse, it was ok. So then I checked the relay wires and relay itself for continuity and it is ok as well.

As the other things are a bit more involved I'll probably wait till I have more time to get into it. But I'm looking forward to going faster than 55 mph! :dance2:

[theschnell]

While odds are that Tim is right and its not your thermostat, I would still start there if I were you. Its really a lot easier than it looks. Just make sure you have a long extension for your socket. I have a 6 inch extension for the 1/4 inch drive that worked great. I think it took me about 30 to 45 minutes, although I already had the fan shroud out of the way. Even still, its not that bad, and you'll eliminate that as a possibility and have a van that runs more efficiently. Good luck!

[Cornato]

Question: is the "OD off" indicator on your cluster illuminated? If so that would indicate a shorted switch or shorted wires to the switch. If that's the case then the 1st thing I'd do is disconnect the switch harness (the one shown in pics 3 & 4) and see if the light goes off. If it does, then test drive the van with it disconnected to see if it shifts. Tim

No, regardless of whether or not how much i press the switch; no indication on the dash. I checked the fuse, where else to check? I think I'm gonna start with the thermostat first though.

And even after I blocked my radiator there was no change even after a 30 miles trip. So I don't know what that's about.:cnfsd:

[theschnell]

No OD light either way does not sound good at all. Out of curiosity, have you tried hitting the switch while driving fast enough that is should shift to make sure that you don't have it the wrong way? More likely, though, something's not connected properly and that's your problem. That's Tim's department. I would follow his instructions to identify where the problem is.

Has your overdrive ever worked? You may want to make sure that the wiring clip that goes into the front of the shifter is actually connected. If memory serves me correctly, I drove my van once without reconnecting it and I think I remember that it wouldn't shift into overdrive for me either. I do remember for sure that obviously the OD light would not change when I hit the button because the wiring clip was disconnected. I think the light was off, but I'm not positive about that.

Good luck!

[theschnell]

Sorry, I just realized my advice about making sure your clip is connected is exactly what Tim already said to do. It's definitely your first step though.

[Cornato]

I've only had the van for about 2 weeks and the OD has never worked. I got it going about 50 the other day and hit the switch and nothing happened. The light has never worked either. The harness and relay is connected and working just fine.

But that light not coming on has stumped me. If the light is off it should be in OD, which would be fine. But it's not, and no matter how long I drive, how fast I'm going, how hot the engine is, and how many times I press the switch; no change.:doh:

[timsrv]

Have you taken the engine cover off and disconnected the thermo switch? This is a very simple circuit so there's only a few things that can go wrong. Tim

[Cornato]

Not yet Tim, I just disconnected the transmission relay while driving and no change. And also double checked the wires, all's good.

I haven't disconnected the thermo switch yet, it's been raining here. And I plan on insulating under the seats, and would like to do it all at once.

For now it's rock climbing and drinking. :drunk:

I'll keep ya'll posted.

[timsrv]

Disconnecting the relay won't help (that would insure the OD won't work). I was talking about the harness connection to the switch. When you get the engine cover off check the harness connection that goes to the solenoid. Disconnect it and verify the conductors inside are clean and shiny. After you've done this simple stuff, if you still get no joy, post again and I'll walk you through more advanced testing. Tim

[Cornato]

I disconnected the temp sensor and no change. It did not shift in to overdrive. The plug was pretty dirty and so was the whole engine actually. So I guess I check the solenoid now.

[Cornato]

The plug I'm pretty sure is the temp sensor plug.

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m506/cornato5/TEXXXX/DSC01873.jpg

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m506/cornato5/TEXXXX/DSC01872.jpg

[Cornato]

Eureka! Last night going to a pub I noticed I was going 60 mph and my engine wasn't stressing out! IT SHIFTED INTO O/D!!! :rol:

I'm so effin excited!!! Weird thing is...now I can press the O/D switch and it will kick out of O/D, but there is no indication on the dash? Maybe the light is out? But I thought since I disconnected the temp switch it wasn't able to shift in and out of O/D?

I don't really want to look a gift horse in the mouth, but I'm just curious. I CAN DRIVE 55mph, and then some! YEAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!:lol::LOL2::LOLabv::rol::roflm ao:

[timsrv]

I thought it wasn't able to shift in and out of OD even before you disconnected the temp switch. Not really sure what you're asking but I'm happy it's working. Just don't touch anything......seriously! don't even breath hard :LOL2:. Tim

[NEC]

I thought it wasn't able to shift in and out of OD even before you disconnected the temp switch. Not really sure what you're asking but I'm happy it's working. Just don't touch anything......seriously! don't even breath hard :LOL2:. Tim
x2.

Unless you are in an extremely cold climate you can leave the od temp switch unplugged. the system is designed to keep you from "bogging" your engine when it's really really cold to prevent blow-by gasses from entering the crankcase and more importantly to speed up the warm-up cycle and promote cleaner combustion (emissions.... damn smog hippies).

[Cornato]

That's what I'm saying!!! But there is so much more work I have to do!!!

Replace the thermostat
Rebuild the p/s pump and res
Change spark plugs and ign wires

[Dogfish]

That's what I'm saying!!! But there is so much more work I have to do!!!

Replace the thermostat
Rebuild the p/s pump and res
Change spark plugs and ign wires

It can be time consuming... especially if you are new to working on TV's. Think of it as time well spent getting to know your van. Like spending time with a new girlfriend. The more attention and affection you give your van the more it gives back... neglect it and it will soon be gone.

The more time you spend under the hood, the more you will find to do... don't be surprised if that initial list multiplies by a factor of 4 or 5 before you get it all done.

Oh... if you are doing plugs & wires it's a good time to do cap & rotor. Also if you get your PS pump working don't be surprised if some leaks crop up in a few months... you may want to do hoses while your at it. Same re: the thermostat... good time to do rad hoses.

See... even more opportunity to lavish love and affection on your van.

-Jim

[Cornato]

I'm gonna need to get a second job. Dammit.

[trestlehed]

FWIW, my overdrive has always worked fine. I don't have any overdrive light indicator on my dash and didn't know there was one until just recently...

Light bulb burned out back there? I'm not going to try and fix it though.

[User1]

Before starting new threads please search and post in one that deals with the subject :). If none exist, then by all means start a new one. Here's a good one. Hope this helps: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?330-Overdrive-issues



OK I read the thread and you state here,
"Note: the 4wd van has a slightly different / more complicated OD system, but since yours is a 2wd we'll stick to 2wd for the sake of this discussion."

Do I still follow tips and advice? Not sure if it matters or not, but my indicator light on the dash does come on when pressed. Good thread though, and you do a remarkable job of explaining things! I do some searching for threads tomorrow. At least I know that I'm not getting OverDrive on the road.

[timsrv]

Do I still follow tips and advice? Not sure if it matters or not, but my indicator light on the dash does come on when pressed. Good thread though, and you do a remarkable job of explaining things! I do some searching for threads tomorrow. At least I know that I'm not getting OverDrive on the road.

Sorry about being a pest on where to post. It's all about organization (future searches, etc). I went ahead and moved your post here. Yes, there are some differences in the 4wd vans, but the systems are similar enough to be lumped together. The big difference with the 4wd is a temperature sensor, overtemp indicator light, and the OD relay is a bit more complicated inside (on the 4wd they call it "ATM Control Computer"). Everything else still applies. The 1st thing I'd do is pull the wire off the thermo switch that's located at the front right of the cylinder head (use the picture shown earlier in this thread). If it starts shifting into OD, then the thermo switch is bad. Your choice on whether or not to replace it. I've been driving my van for years without the thermo switch because I wanted the port for a temperature gauge. The only downside I could see is I have overdrive before the van warms up......oh wait.........is that a downside??? :?:

PS: The temperature sensor on the 4wd transmission (different from the thermo switch on the head) talks directly to the transmission computer. If an overtemp condition is detected the computer will lock out overdrive and illuminate a warning light in your instrument cluster. Sine you're not reporting an overtemp warning light I doubt it's that sensor, but I suppose it's possible the bulb burned out or maybe somebody removed it..........but that's a bit unlikely.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Drive%20Train/Overdriveschematic4wd_zps2ad8f475.jpg

[User1]

Hey everyone, I'm in the process of taking this floor panel out from under the passenger seat. How entailed is it to take the shift panel off of this thing? Will I still be able to drive it? What I was hoping I can do is take this to the carwash and get the engine compartment cleaned. That is I'm assuming I can use the first three gears(auto). Figured I'd tried to make the process a bit more useful by cleaning up in there I was planning on disconnecting the OD temp sensor to see if I can get my OD to work. It's pretty grimy and tried to grab and pull back on it. Not sure if you need to twist it or what. How does that connector come off? Man really wana just cut that wire!

[timsrv]

There's a link to instructions for removing this panel in my 1st post on this thread. You leave the shifter on the panel and just move the entire assembly to the back seat area. The shifter cable will flex enough to move it out of your way. Toyota uses little locking mechanisms on most of their wire connectors, so you usually have to do something special to remove them (some are worse than others). I believe the OD thermo switch connector requires you to squeeze it in a specific spot to release. Just use a flashlight and it should become obvious where to apply pressure.

For test drives or trips to the car wash I would put the panel on with just a couple of screws. Just don't leave it that way for extended driving. Not only is this panel designed to keep noxious fumes out of the cabin, but it's also a structural piece (not something you'd want loose in a collision). Have fun at the car wash. Be sure to bring tools to remove your distributor cap........because if you get water in there it will run like crap (if it runs at all). Tim

[User1]

OK I wana get back into fixing this OD problem I'm having. I'll list just about all the the steps listed above and status and then I'll state what is happening. BTW, I also read the Sensors to overdrive (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?556-Sensors-to-overdrive&highlight=Sensors+overdrive) thread.

*Checked the 7.5 amp(?) fuse and doesn't look burnt, but there is my gas gauge not working correctly. If there's a full tank
of gas, then it works correctly. Anything less, and it reads empty. All other gauges and lights seem to be working.
*OD light does come on if button is pressed
*Thermo switch is discounted
*I have not checked the harness connection that goes to the solenoid. I have not disconnected it and verify the conductors inside are clean and shiny.
*Did check the wires under the center console of the van and all the wires look good. Can take pics if needed.

When the thermo switch was connected, I did have the van going into OD once in a blue moon. Ever since I've discounted the Thermo Switch it has yet to go into OD. I could try and get it to go into OD when it's half way warmed up, or all the way warmed up and still no OD.

[User1]

HOLLY COW I HAD MY OD WORKING TODAY!!!!!! :dance2:

Man that's nice going 70 mph and barely getting to 3000 rpms!!! I'm not really all that good at listening to my van but I think she was telling me she wanted to go to Alaska!!! I filled the tank, actually I topped it off. It had quite abit of gas in it already. I put in about $20 or 5 gallons. After it was filled all the way, the gas gauge read a full tank and van started shifting into OD. I had to stop by a store and then I got on the freeway. I started on the freeway and was thinking I had just 3 gears. Then this panel TV passed us up in the fast lane and she shifted into OD on the freeway!!! Oh wish I was heading north. It didn't even start overheating till the panel van was just a little dot in the horizon and we were almost home. The girl had so much desire in her! :shock:

[User1]

Man my OD is showing some life! Today is the first day I've gotten into my van TWICE and had the OD working both times I got in! Usually it will work once sometime during the day, and as long as I'm driving it will shift into OD when needed. But if I stopped and stopped the engine, that would be the end of OD for the day. Today was different! I had OD working, I stopped and when I got back into the van to drive, it started shifting again into OD! TWO times in a row!!!!!!!

I got a chance tomorrow to check the harness connection that goes to the solenoid. Just to get that on the list of "done that".

Oh and no complaints with the shifting, seems to shift great when it's using four gears.

[Mr. Adventure]

Okay, so I checked the overdrive solenoid. Applied 12V to it and I could hear it activate. Drive it around a bit and overdrive didn't kick in (Before I did a mess of work the O/D would kick on after like 30 minutes on the freeway). I checked the hookup for the O/D solenoid and at operating temperature is was putting out a little more than 12v which would activate the solenoid right? But no O/D still.

The O/D black box felt hot to the touch while driving. Also while looking at it there was one yellow wire with a solid red stripe tucked back into the harness, I pulled it out but I doubt it hooks up to anything. Looks like the factory tucked it in there.

Also under the center console there was another cluster of wires with a connection on the end that isn't hooked up to anything and I can't find anything it hooks up to.

So tests done thus far

O/D Solenoid Good
Solenoid connection Good
Temp sensor (didn't change O/D Issue when disconnected.)
all I can think of is the Relay which is heating up and Toyota doesn't make it anymore
Or the ATF thermo sensor which is 4wd specific and I can't seem to locate.

The ATM control is wired different on the 89 than on the 87 in the manual so i don't know how to test it, if anyone can scan that page mad props.

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i345/redstarg/0badb2af.jpg
pic of the extra wire and hookup, Thanks!

[Mr. Adventure]

Hey Tim, I have read all the overdrive posts on this forum and toyotavanpeople which are quite informative but have not resolved my issue.

None of thos threads are 4wd specific and I have trouble shot the the simple circuit of thermo switch and solenoid and am getting no response now.

Now that the thermo switch is disconnected I can hear the solenoid engage and disengage by the press of the button.

I am going to take it for a long drive now to see if the O/D will engage after a while like it did before, but it does not readily engage

[Mr. Adventure]

No dice. The day before I had added some seafoam trans tune (which worked wonders on my 2wd drive van). When I checked the fluid level it was wayyyyyy too full. Like while cold the level was 1 inch over the hot max mark. So I drained the fluid down to the right level and with high hopes I hit the road.

80 miles later and no O/D. Next step is draining the fluid and changing the filter.

Going to unhook the relay and see if the solenoid still clicks. If not than maybe the relay is good.

Then check all the fusible links.

Then set it on fire and push it off a mountain

::D

[timsrv]

Good luck. I haven't yet experienced the type of failure you're having. I've dealt with non-working overdrive circuits a few times but each time it was a simple fix. Right now we're in the middle of a move & I don't have much time to monitor the forum and respond (sorry). The best advice I can give is to follow the factory service manual and study the schematics. Please share the solution with us once you find it......and if you're persistent, I'm sure you will :yes:. Tim

[Mr. Adventure]

O/D is working!

Flushed tranny, changed filter, filled it and added lucas oil. jumpd on the freeway and O/D has worked perfectly since!

[masterace]

Hi,

I recently bought a 2wd '86 Van w/ 124k original miles and it hasn't kicked into overdrive yet. I disconnected the thermo switch and pulled the solenoid and tested the continuity between contacts and it checked out fine. Still no overdrive. The thermo switch just needs to be unplugged at the connection, and not pulled off the senor completely, right? I didn't want to remove the passenger seat and was able to unplug it w/ a long pair of pliers.


Also, it seems to change gears late. For instance, I have to let off the gas a little at about 37-40mph to get it to kick into 3rd gear. I checked the throttle cable adjustments per the manual and it appears to be dead on. Could this have anything to do w/ my overdrive issue?

One last thing, I'm getting about 17mpg...after a tuneup. Any easy way to improve this? I've heard a bad throttle position sensor may help.

This is a great forum and great resource. Thanks for reading!

[timsrv]

I didn't want to remove the passenger seat and was able to unplug it w/ a long pair of pliers.


I find this statement interesting. How did you manage to release the locking clip of this connector? Are you sure you didn't just un-plug the temp gauge sender? The OD Thermo Switch is the one with the gray connector under the gauge sender. IMHO the passenger seat cowing needs to come off in order to articulate the plastic lock & remove that connector.

You don't pull the switch from the head, you simply pull the gray connector off of it. If the problem is due to a faulty thermo switch the OD will begin working. Tim

[masterace]

I find this statement interesting. How did you manage to release the locking clip of this connector? Are you sure you didn't just un-plug the temp gauge sender? The OD Thermo Switch is the one with the gray connector under the gauge sender. IMHO the passenger seat cowing needs to come off in order to articulate the plastic lock & remove that connector.

Maybe I could drive up to Battle Ground and show you :bluevan:

I am fairly certain i pulled the right plug. Its the one directly below the gauge sender just like in your picture...plus my temp gauge still works fine. I grabbed the plug with a really long pair of needle nose and it separated easily. I then moved the metal clip that is directly behind it to move the plug out of the way.

The plug on my van was actually blue...

[Zackataca]

Hello! My Van's heat doesn't get hot at all and I've been lead to believe that this could be related to the fact that my OVERDRIVE is no longer kicking into gear. I followed all the steps in this fabulous post but to no avail.
Anyone have any experience with this little quirk?
Thanks in advance!

[timsrv]

So you disconnected the OD thermo switch?

[Zackataca]

I did, but it didn't solve the problem. I have since plugged it back in.

[timsrv]

Here's a simple schematic of the overdrive system for the 2wd vans:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Drive%20Train/Overdriveschematic_zps8fd4111d.jpg

As you can see from the schematic the OD circuit becomes live whenever the ignition is on. The thermo switch and the OD switch are there to disable it. The relay contacts (between terminals 1 & 2) are normally closed (constantly supplying power to the solenoid). When ground is applied to either pin 3 or pin 4 (via the switches) the contacts will open, removing power from the solenoid. When you have power to the OD solenoid the OD should work. If the solenoid has power but the OD doesn't work, then the solenoid is bad.

If there is power to pin 2 but not pin 1 then the relay is preventing OD operation. If this is the case, then check for ground at pins 3 & 4. If no ground is present at either of these pins but no continuity between pins 1 & 2, then the relay is shot. Make sense?

For more information on troubleshooting go to the electronic service manual start testing components. The OD section starts on page AT-14 (PDF page #310). If you don't already have it, here's a link to download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q4u_5zlshRsVDv5v86CiukP7wOD7nKyF/view

[trestlehed]

Here is a really easy way to remember how the O/D button works (especially for new van owners).

When the button on your shifter handle is pushed In - the O/D is On.
In has 2 letters, On has 2 letters.

When the button is out - the O/D is off.
Out has 3 letters, Off has 3 letters.

In is On
Out is Off

BTW my dashboard has never shown an O/D on/off light,
so I had to figure-out the memory device above.:doh:

[masterace]

Just wanted to follow up on my overdrive issue. I posted earlier about buying a van w 125k and no overdrive. I immediately figured it was the thermo switch so pulled that. No overdrive. I was convinced it wasn't the solenoid because when i had someone press the button on the shift knob, I could here an audible click on the solenoid. I assumed this meant it was functioning. After changing the fluid, messing with the kickdown cable w/ no results I decided to look for a used solenoid. Picked one off a van w/ 400k miles and installed it. BAM! Overdrive. Lesson learned.

[timsrv]

These things are built tough! But age takes it's toll and eventually everything succumbs :?:. I personally have never seen a failed OD solenoid (knock on wood), but they are vulnerable just like everything else. Glad you found a good used one & that it solved your issue. Sometimes swapping parts is the best troubleshooting. These type problems can make a parts van priceless. Thanks for the update. Tim

[SUSPECT922]

Hey TVT fans-


Okay, I'll admit it. I'm a converted Vanagon owner who has come to the dark side. I bought my first Toyota Van Wagon three years ago now, affectionately named Huey. Huey is a 1986 2WD LE model, and when I sold my house on Monday it became my main residence (I haven't figured out the mail forwarding yet). When I bought Huey he had about 148,000 miles and we've been quite a few places together here in the midwest, but he's never had overdrive. According to the previous owner, Huey had an engine rebuild prior to us becoming friends.
Okay, enough history, so now the overdrive issue:

Per the instructions in this thread, I first looked at the 7.5 Amp fuse, and that looked good, so I then looked at removing the temp sensor. After visually checking all of the wiring, which looked good, I removed the thermo sensor. I was giddy with anticipation as I fired up Huey with the thought of having overdrive. Unfortunately after a few miles down the road, that didn't come to fruition.

So...I have a buddy that works for our local Toyota dealership, and I brought this to his attention. He checked to make sure there was power getting to the OD solenoid, and, since it was, we both guessed this to be the issue (even though this thread and the other points out it rarely happens that the solenoid goes out). The dealership was able to find ONE (literally ONE), and I replaced it. Again, just as giddy, I took Huey out on the open road. As you can guess by this long diatribe, alas, no overdrive. I tried driving both with the thermo sensor connected as well as disconnected. I'm now reaching out on this forum, to see if anyone has any thoughts. I'll add some pictures of the temp sensor (which looks to be placed in the "extra/unused" port from the "sensors to overdrive" thread) when I have a moment. I will also tell you that the O/D switch on the shift seems to be working since the light on the dash will go on and off.

[timsrv]

If you have a new solenoid that's getting power, but you still don't have OD, then it has to be something inside the transmission. I'm not a transmission guy, so if I had this issue I'd take it to a transmission specialist..........but then again, I have a guy that does good work, is trustworthy, and charges fair prices. If you know of a shop near you that you can say this about, then I'd recommend going to them for help. Tim

[SUSPECT922]

Thanks Tim for the quick response. I was a little worried that was going to be the result. Sh*t.

[Simdaddy]

Timsrv you're a Genius.....I've been searching for weeks for a solution to a no 3rd gear + no overdrive issue on a Toyota Mark II (X80) to no avail. I've searched every forum, every manual and every website. I couldn't find anywhere what the overdrive relay even looked like much less its location....then out of the blue, the Spirit of God lead me to this site and Viola! ...at 10:30pm I rushed outside and tried what you said, then blasted off for a trial run......the OVERDRIVE plus the long lost 3rd gear resurfaced ...UNBELIEVABLE.....the issue was the thermo switch and of course, since I live in the Caribbean, it will remain disconnected forever. Also the throttle cable needed a little adjustment to allow for an earlier and smoother gear change.

Thanks a million, keep up the good work....you guys are the best !:dance1:

[RobJoe]

So I've created a monster. 85 Van Wagon with overdrive issues.

OverDrive stopped working about 2 months ago and then I went to 'fix it' and destroyed the electronic button on the console. So I bypassed the switch by tying the white black and red together. I started to notice that the dash display light would be on when the head lights were off and when I'd use the head lights the dash light would go off. Just recently I started to notice a parasitic drain on the battery. Every morning I'd have to jump it and it would run fine for the day only to need jump the next. Now the warning light clusters come on sporadically while driving.

I'm suspecting that this is all related but my judgement has been failing me. Any help?

[timsrv]

I bypassed the switch by tying the white black and red together

I'm a bit confused here. When you say "white black and red" are you talking about 3 wires or 2? If one wire is white with a black stripe, then please identify as white/black (helps minimize confusion). Another thing that can create confusion is wire colors on components are not always the wire colors Toyota used on the harness. To make matters worse, wire colors on components are subject to change (so always identify wires by the color on the "van side" of the harness). Example: wires coming from the actual OD switch might be blue & white (or any color), but the wires they coordinate with on the "van side" of the harness will always be white/black & orange. Because the "van side" of the harness is always consistent, it's best to only reference the "van side" harness colors.

If the red wire you are calling out is on the "component side" of the harness, this could explain part of my confusion (please clarify). On the "van side" of the harness there is no solid red wire associated with the OD circuit. There is however a red/blue wire (red with blue stripe). Since white/black is always a ground, if you tied a white/black to the red/blue (Gauge & OD circuit power wire), you have created a short circuit to ground. This would likely result in the 7.5A gauge fuse blowing (see picture in my 1st post of this thread) and would render your OD system useless (along with your cluster gauges). If you wish to bypass the switch, all you need to do is cut one of the wires going to it (the switch is actually only there to limit OD operation). When closed, the switch supplies ground to the OD relay. When ground is supplied to the relay it will illuminate the "O/D OFF" indicator and prevent OD operation. Tim

[timsrv]

I've been messing with these vans for many years and finally had my 1st OD solenoid failure. The van is an 86 LE with 225k miles on it. The transmission is original and has never been rebuilt. About 6 months ago I noticed the OD would take about 15 miles to start working. This was odd because I have the OD thermo switch disconnected. But just like clockwork it would start working every day after about 15 miles. Now that the weather is starting to cool down I noticed it was taking more like 20 miles, so today I took a look at it. I found the solenoid to be getting power, but there was no clicking sounds when activated/deactivated. I swapped it out with a good used one and immediately started getting the click associated with on/off. Went for a quick test drive and had OD right away :). Tim

[highwind]

I've been messing with these vans for many years and finally had my 1st OD solenoid failure. The van is an 86 LE with 225k miles on it. The transmission is original and has never been rebuilt. About 6 months ago I noticed the OD would take about 15 miles to start working. This was odd because I have the OD thermo switch disconnected. But just like clockwork it would start working every day after about 15 miles. Now that the weather is starting to cool down I noticed it was taking more like 20 miles, so today I took a look at it. I found the solenoid to be getting power, but there was no clicking sounds when activated/deactivated. I swapped it out with a good used one and immediately started getting the click associated with on/off. Went for a quick test drive and had OD right away :). Tim
I might have this problem but no way to test it :(

[timsrv]

When sitting at an idle with engine hot, click the OD button on & off. With your window down you should hear a clicking sound coming from the transmission. If no click, use a test light on the OD solenoid wire (DS of transmission). If test light goes on/off with switch, but no click from the solenoid, the solenoid is bad. If the test reveals no power to the solenoid, then disconnect the OD thermo switch and try again. If still no power check for power at the OD relay (2wd) or the OD computer (4wd). Relay/Computer is located in front of the shifter under the center console. Tim

[WSG1970]

If this is the wrong place feel free to move this post, but has anyone tried the Volvo 240 solenoid with their Toyota OD? It looks to be the same thing, possibly with just a different electrical connector.

[Njriverrat]

Hey, I own an '87 LE 4wd Automatic. The Overdrive started acting up. Seems like it can't make up its mind in 4th gear. Turn the overdrive off. First, Second, and Third gear works fine. Think this could be a problem with the overdrive solenoid? Or, the overdrive water thermo switch? Thanks!

[Rufus]

Does this van have a push button switch to turn the overdrive on and off? If so, it may be gummed up and not fully locked into the detent even though it appears so.

[timsrv]

Hey, I own an '87 LE 4wd Automatic. The Overdrive started acting up. Seems like it can't make up its mind in 4th gear. Turn the overdrive off. First, Second, and Third gear works fine. Think this could be a problem with the overdrive solenoid? Or, the overdrive water thermo switch? Thanks!

Hi & welcome to TVT! :wave2: 1st off, although 4wd has a slightly different OD system, IMO it's not different enough to be posted in the section specific for 4wd vans. Also, since there are already threads on OD issues, I moved your post into an existing thread. In the future, before posting, please use the search feature (upper right corner of each forum page) an try to find your answers. If you are unsuccessful in finding what you need, then please post in a thread of the same subject matter (it all has to do with organization) :).

If you haven't already reviewed this thread, please start on page 1 and read/check out links. When done, if you still have questions, please post and we'll be happy to assist. Tim

[WSG1970]

If this is the wrong place feel free to move this post, but has anyone tried the Volvo 240 solenoid with their Toyota OD? It looks to be the same thing, possibly with just a different electrical connector.

Just a heads up, since I've installed the "Volvo" solenoid, my OD has started working. I'm sure it was just a bad solenoid but this was a cheaper route if anybody has been looking for one. Happy to have OD now!

[timsrv]

That's interesting to know. It makes you wonder how many other things may work from other makes/models. I wish there was a list somewhere with all these secrets. Thanks for sharing. Tim

[WSG1970]

That's interesting to know. It makes you wonder how many other things may work from other makes/models. I wish there was a list somewhere with all these secrets. Thanks for sharing. Tim

I thought it was a good item to try, for the $ it was worth it. Also like many things that may soon be NLA as well.

Here is a link to the one I used. http://m.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-AUTO-TRANSMISSION-OVERDRIVE-SOLENOID-WITH-O-RINGS-240-262-264-265-740-760-/281352864778?nav=SEARCH

[timsrv]

Cool, I just put one in my cart. Next time I check out I'll have one to replace the one I stole from a good extra xmsn I have. Tim

[Njriverrat]

Thanks for moving my post to the appropriate thread. The overdrive button on the gear selector seems to work. When switched off. The light on the dash comes on and it will not go into overdrive. I'm going to try replacing the stock overdrive solenoid with the Volvo overdrive solenoid. Hopefully that will cure the problem.

[rootbeerrain]

I've been searching and I'm not sure if this is the right place but what the heck:

My 88 2wd TV's muffler rusted off before I bought it. It's actually sortof convenient in the meantime (while I'm waiting on the new one) cause I can hear pretty well what the engine is doing. Anyway, I drive 60 miles round trip for work each day with lots of hills. When I'm coasting downhill and let off the gas I can definitely feel the van rolling slower than it should. When I coast past cement walls and the like (echos) I can hear the engine engaging in drive(like engine braking?) and when I shift it into neutral I feel the tension/inertia goes away and it coasts well like it should. Is this an overdrive related issue or something else?

The only other things I can think of is maybe that the ATF is overfilled, or it could be that the front brake rotors are quite rusty (you can hear them grinding when I drive, just haven't had time/cash to fix yet)... but whatever gear wouldn't affect the front wheels right? So yeah if this is overdrive related and I'm in the right place then cool, if not any pointers would be great and we could move this.

Oh and the overdrive button and light works.

Thanks,
-Spencer

[timsrv]

When you're cruising at over 60 mph and you're not accelerating or going up a hill, watch the tachometer and turn off the OD. If the OD is working you will see the revs go up and you'll feel it downshift. If nothing changes, then there might be an issue. Tim

PS: Allow the van to warm up before testing.

[rootbeerrain]

sooo, I see a speedometer on the left and on the right fuel and temp gauges. Is there a flip up tachometer in the glove box of these vans I don't know about yet?:doh:

Oh and for what it's worth, other than the dash light going on and off I can't feel any difference whether the O/D button is on or off. Does this perhaps signal overdrive could be the root of the issues described above?

Thanks,
-Spencer

[timsrv]

Sometimes I forget that not all the vans have a tach because mine do. But still, if you're cruising in the final gear, and you turn off the cruise, you should feel it downshift. Not sure how fast you can drive on the island, but I'm assuming it's not hrs at a time @ 75 mph or higher. If you just have short hops of 60 mph or so, then you probably don't need it. If you do need it, or just want it fixed, then the 1st thing to do is disconnect your OD Thermo Switch on the side of the head. If that doesn't remedy, then you should put a 12V test light on the wire to the OD solenoid. You should be able to turn the test light on/off with the OD button. If you can make the test light go on/off with the switch, but can't hear a click/click, then the solenoid is shot. Tim

[echopdx]

So how is it different for the four-wheel-drive version? I do have an 88 four-wheel-drive with automatic locking hubs and unfortunately no overdrive on the freeway. I have tried everything except for replacing the solenoid?

any hints?

[timsrv]

The 4wd version isn't all that different. It's slightly more complicated due to the transmission temp sensor, but the same advice given in my last post would still be accurate and would apply to you too.

[WSG1970]

Is it possible that OD solenoids could get "clogged" with old dirty transmission fluid? Just a possible issue that has me wondering.

[timsrv]

Is it possible that OD solenoids could get "clogged" with old dirty transmission fluid? Just a possible issue that has me wondering.

When mine failed, it was a long gradual process. It would still work if I drove long enough, but it was basically sticky/gummed-up. I probably could have cleaned & reworked it, but after 225k miles I figured it wasn't worth the effort. I put a good used one on out of one of my spare transmissions. Then I got one of those $40 Volvo OD solenoids to replace the one I robbed :thmbup:. Tim

[echopdx]

Ok, hoping anyone can give me some advise. This site has been so helpful and I have been able to work on my favorite vehicle of choice. This problem has me totally confused.

I have a 88 TV it's an Auto. When I purchased it the previous owner said something about the transmission and it shifted and how went into overdrive sporadically with no given reason. He thought it was due to a short. I replaced the tranny and still the same problem, I replaced the relay switch and no luck. I took the while shiftier apart and the overdrive button and made sure there is no shorts anywhere. I also swapped out the over drive solenoid and the ECU.

Here is what happens. If i start the engine, as soon as i start it I hear a very fast clicking in the blue over drive switch. As soon as it RPM's settle then the fast clicking stops. It does go on overdrive sometimes if I am going over 45 and I hit the overdrive button on and off but it seems to down shift into 3rd without me accelerating. It almost seems like it does not want to go into overdrive no matter what I do. I am determined to figure this out and over come this overdrive problem.

Here is some questions.
1) Is there an overdrive computer? as I do hear some clicking in the dash
2) has anyone had this sort of problem before?
3) How should I proceed with the diagnostic.

Any help would be so appreciated.

[timsrv]

Since you replaced the entire transmission (solenoid included), I think it's safe to rule that out. Probably pretty safe to rule out any of the other parts you replaced too. Have you disconnected the thermo switch yet? That should be the 1st thing you do. Tim

[brentlehr]

What Tim said. I had OD issues about five years ago while traveling through Colorado in November. First it just took longer than usual before OD would kick in, then it took forever and was eventually intermittent. Water thermo switch fixed it.

Not sure if anyone linked to this thread yes but it could be helpful. (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?556-Sensors-to-overdrive)

[echopdx]

Since you replaced the entire transmission (solenoid included), I think it's safe to rule that out. Probably pretty safe to rule out any of the other parts you replaced too. Have you disconnected the thermo switch yet? That should be the 1st thing you do. Tim


I have disconnected the thermal switch, that did not help. Is there an overdrive computer in the dash?

[timsrv]

What Tim said. I had OD issues about five years ago while traveling through Colorado in November. First it just took longer than usual before OD would kick in, then it took forever and was eventually intermittent. Water thermo switch fixed it.

Not sure if anyone linked to this thread yes but it could be helpful. (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?556-Sensors-to-overdrive)

Thanks for that link brent (I had forgot about that thread). Echo, if it becomes too much hassle, and if you don't care about keeping everything stock, I'd just bypass via one of the methods I talked about in that thread. Tim

[echopdx]

Thanks for that link brent (I had forgot about that thread). Echo, if it becomes too much hassle, and if you don't care about keeping everything stock, I'd just bypass via one of the methods I talked about in that thread. Tim

Thank you Tim... So again just to confirm there is nothing in the dashboard that would cause it. Should I assume that to be correct?

[timsrv]

Not really. Although it gets power from the ignition switch (AM1 circuit), then it goes through the fuse block (7.5A gauge fuse). If however the problem came from there you would have other issues (like problems with your gauges). If the gauges are fine, then you might try connecting the black wire to the red/blue wire in the plug to the relay (or ATM computer if it's a 4wd). Even just temporarily as that would be a good way to troubleshoot. If the OD begins consistently working, then you've just ruled out about half of the things that could be causing issue. Frankly, although I'm somewhat of a purist, I've began bypassing and redesigning electrical circuits in my van simply because the original design was stupid, overly complicated, or just plain worn out. I haven't had problems with my OD circuit yet (other than a failed solenoid), but if I did, I wouldn't hesitate to bypass.

Just yesterday I bypassed most of the front fan motor circuit in my 86 because it keeps burning out fuse blocks (can't get new, and used ones are already 30 years old). If you bypass the ATM computer/OD relay (red/blue to black) the circuit is still protected by the gauge fuse (so you're good there). You are merely disabling the things meant to inhibit OD operation. On the 2wd, these things are the on/off switch and the "water thermo switch" (IMO that thermo switch is absolutely unnecessary). On the 4wd there is one additional thing that shuts off the OD.........the "ATF Thermo Sensor". The ATF Thermo Sensor talks to the ATM computer. If the transmission gets too hot the ATM computer turns on a red warning light on your dash "A.T. Oil Temp" and the ATM computer turns off the OD (to protect and allow the transmission to cool down). That's not likely to ever happen, but if it does, and if the OD side of the ATM computer is bypassed, then you'd need to remember to turn off your OD. For this reason, if I were to bypass, I'd recommend bridging those wires (blue/red & black) with a switch. That way if you ever wanted it off, you could just flip the switch. Tim

[echopdx]

Thank you Tim! I will try that.

[timsrv]

FYI, I actually got my transmission hot enough once to activate that protective feature. I was driving in steep terrain on a hot summer day while towing a small cargo trailer. The van was full and trailer weight was around 600 lbs. I had been climbing for some time and van was working hard. Just as I crested the top the A.T. Oil Temp light came on. I started down the other side and due to the down-hill van was accelerating but failed to shift into OD. I watched the light, and as soon as it went out the van shifted into OD. It was kind of cool to see it work (had never seen it before or since).

Normally I don't like disabling things like this, but in reality that was an extreme situation that would likely never occur for most folks. If it ever did, you could simply turn it off manually and/or stop for a while to let the transmission cool. Tim

[echopdx]

It's still not working and I am soooooooo frustrated. I want to pull a new wire directly from the relay all the way to the solenoid. Does that seem like a good idea? Which wire should I attempt to pull from? I will also replace the power line from the battery to make sure I am getting enough juice there. Thanks again for the help.

[timsrv]

What have you done so far?

[timsrv]

For those of you who have given up on troubleshooting, here's an easy way to get your OD back. If you think you'll ever want to turn your OD off, then this isn't for you (this will permanently enable it). This completely eliminates the need for the OD electrical circuit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121976035242
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/volvo-over-drive-overdrive-solenoid-repair-kit-240-740-940-769-780-/362090245964?hash=item544e42af4c:g:rcEAAOSwoRBZqyl 3&vxp=mtr
You just climb under the DS of the van, remove the heat shield (2 8mm hex bolts), then remove the (2) 12mm solenoid mount bolts, cut the wire, and remove the solenoid. Install this part and you're done (should take about 5 minutes). Tim

[Ace MM]

FYI, I actually got my transmission hot enough once to activate that protective feature.
I've been trying to find the temp it does activate.
I have an external gauge and I haven't gotten above 211*F & no light.

[Tan Van]

When mine failed, it was a long gradual process. It would still work if I drove long enough, but it was basically sticky/gummed-up. I probably could have cleaned & reworked it, but after 225k miles I figured it wasn't worth the effort. I put a good used one on out of one of my spare transmissions. Then I got one of those $40 Volvo OD solenoids to replace the one I robbed :thmbup:. Tim
okay, so , by a "long gradual process" did you mean that you were getting overdrive, but it became more difficult over time to get it to shift into OD (e.g. - higher rpm's as time went on ??) -- if so, I might be in the middle of this "long gradual failure of the solenoid process... my OD is working, but at a noteably higher rpm than in my previous van (about 48mph vs. about 38mph)...
-or, was the "long gradual process" of it failing more like an intermittent working/not working scenario ?

[timsrv]

I mean the OD didn't work when the van was cold (even though I had the OD engine temp sensor disconnected). After the transmission warmed up, then it would shift. For the 1st few months of that eventual failure it would take about 1 mile or so of freeway driving before it would shift, then for another few months it would take 2 or 3 miles. After a year or so it would take 5 or 6 miles, then it eventually stopped shifting into OD altogether. During testing I verified it was powering up, but it wouldn't change positions (stuck).

Shortly after I replaced the solenoid (which solved that problem), the transmission started shifting weird. It would not want to shift out of the low gears when floored. If I babied it, it would shift, but if I floored it again it would drop all the way down to 1st (even if I was going way too fast for 1st). It would only do this while the transmission was cold and would start shifting normal again when warm.

So I figured it must be an issue with the transmission fluid (which was synthetic and only about 2 years old). I had only put about 30k on that fluid, but I changed it out as a final "hail Mary". Over the course of 3 days, that problem gradually went away and all was good. So, almost exactly a year and 15k miles later it starts doing that low gear shifting thing again. I decided since that transmission was original and had over 250k miles on it, it was time to go. I pulled it and swapped it out with one from one of my parts vans (about 150k miles on that one). I was a little worried because that transmission had been sitting in that van for over 15 years. But that was about 4 months/5k miles ago and all is working good. I'm using the Volvo OD solenoid in this one & it's performing excellent. I'm using Amsoil synthetic ATF. Tim

[Tan Van]

okay... so, replacing the transmission was the final solution for you, then...

I just bought an '87 LE 2wd and it is shifting into 3rd and into 4th (OD) way later and at much higher rpm's and at much higher speeds than my old '86 (tan van) that I've had for 16 years (the 1-2 shift seems about the same)

To solve the problem, I'm having the transmission from my old '86 installed into my new '87 this week and I am just so afraid that it will be some other problem after all that expense rather than just a bad transmission--

(I'll try to post photos of the new vs. the old van soon, just because it's fun to see people's new vans)

[Tan Van]

6028

this poor thing on the left is my faithful '86 (it's the "tan van" in my profile thumbnail)... I've caulked and painted it with a brush and roller 8 times in 16 years ... it "burned down" 2 weeks ago ...

but, I'm very exited about my new '87 from California !!

[originalkwyjibo]

If your only issue is late shifts, have you checked the adjustment/function of the kick-down cable?

[timsrv]

Good point. Here's a good thread to check-out: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?563-AT-slipping-after-6-months-sitting. No point in going through all that if you only need to lubricate that cable. Tim

[Tan Van]

thanks, guys... but, I've read through that "kickdown-cable" thread about 5 times in the past week and I can report the following...

- I've unhooked the cable at the throttle body and it smoothly and distinctly slides all the way in and out with perfect rigidity...

- Previous owner had it adjusted toward the"earlier upshift" position already... and, as per JPERL's post from Dec. 2016 (below) ,I've adjusted it almost all the way (with the result that there was a small additional improvement)

- The chart I've seen indicates that at about 25% throttle there should be an upshift to 3rd at around 30mph ...(and, that was the way the transmission in the '86 worked)... but, the '87 is just winding away (over 3500 rpms) before it dumps into drive (3rd) at about 43 mph... as well as winding away and giving overdrive at about 52mph (and, all on level ground with light/moderate throttle pressure)

- also, the downshift (with foot off of the accelerator as you approach a stop) from 3rd to second is quite a thump...with the engine hanging on to the gears as you slow to a stop like a manual transmission would feel like rather than un-coupling...

- finally, the previous owner had a rear seal replaced on the transmission, but, based on the incredible amount of "goo" all over the fuel tank and floor in that area I would guess that the transmission probably drove pretty empty for quite a while...

so, do you guys think I should replace ??? I'm no transmission expert, but, I'm learning a heck of a lot thanks to the founders of this site !!! ...thanks
http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4760&stc=1&d=1482938228

[Tan Van]

you guys were right, a closer look at the kickdown cable revealed that a 1/2 inch piece of the outer protective sheathing was separated from the rest of the tubing (like it had been sliced off by the clamp long ago) and it was interfering with cable travel... after I cleaned up the business end of the cable, I now have really nice shifting-- it's smooth, and, at light throttle I get 3rd at about 23 MPH and I get 4th (OD) at about 31MPH

thanks to all of you for the wisdom to always start with the easiest thing before overdoing it

[timsrv]

:thmbup:

[donne13]

I've got an '89 4x4 van-wagon, auto trans that is not shifting into high/4th gear. It seems like it could be related to the accelerator kick-down. Is there a vaccum modulator/electrical component that could be at fault?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

thanks, donne

[JDM VANMAN]

I’m thinking this may not be 4WD specific because all auto transmission vans have the kick down cable adjustment so this maybe moved to the proper sub forum.

I used the “advanced search” feature and typed in “kick down cable” and 3 threads came up that may address your issue. If you read those 3 and post in the one that’s most related to the issue your van is experiencing you may find your answers and even get a quicker reply from one members that have posted in that thread:thmbup:

Try this thread and if it’s the one that works for you please post there and let us know to delete this one. Thank you!!

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?711-automatic-transmission-delayed-jerky-shifts-throttle-(kick-down)-cable-adjustment

JDM

[donne13]

Still trying to diagnose this shifting issue, have had it looked at by the Toyota dealer in San Raphael CA to no avail. I have adjusted the kick-down linkage all the way thru it's range, and while it did affect the first two shift points, it did not affect the 3rd shift, 3rd gear to overdrive. At this point I am suspecting either a faulty overdrive solenoid or low fluid pressure, although the low fluid pressure seems like it would affect all of the shift points.

thanks, donne

[llamavan]

donne13, as JDMVanman earlier said, this is not a 4WD issue; it's an auto tranny issue. I've merged your two posts and moved them to the overdrive issues thread. Even if you've read this entire thread already and it hasn't helped, this is the correct place for you continue posting about this problem — so that the next person with overdrive issues will have one more solution (hopefully! eventually!) to reference.

Thanks for helping keep TVT organized for everyone!!! :thmbup:

Gwen

[Willotquentin]

Hi everyone,
I'm new in the world of forum and discussion and really hope that you could help me.
i just bought a van 4wd 1987 and unfortunatly after doing a big tune i just realize that it doesn want to pass on the 5th gear...
it goes fine until the 4th gear, 2300rpm for 50mil/h,
then i can keep accelerate if i want on the 4th gear until 80mil/h and be at 3700 rpm which is not the best for the engine ....
any suggestion on what that could be?
thank you very much

[JDM VANMAN]

Welcome to the forum, sorry your having this issue with your van, I deleted your duplicate thread started in the 4WD section because both 2WD and 4WD vans have manual transmissions.

I’m going to redirect you to a couple of very helpful threads that’ll help you search the forum, when we all practice this method it really helps prevent dead end duplicate threads and this way you also get maximum exposure to other things you may experience while you own your van!!:thmbup:

By posting your questions in existing threads you may get the answer just reading a thread, alert a member that’s already experienced it issue and help build those threads up.

Check these threads out and enjoy the journey of knowledge you’ll stumble upon!!

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?24-Welcome-to-ToyotaVanTech-com!

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?5323-Searching-TVT-successfully-and-posting-new-threads

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?6249-TVT-Search-Tag-Index

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?6247-4WD-Tag-Index

And of course if there’s nothing out there that fits your issue then let’s get your thread started up!!:thmbup:

Good luck and enjoy

JDM

[kamesama980]

What do you mean "doesn't pass in 5th gear"? Like, doesn't pass other cars? 5th gear isn't for passing, it's for cruising along steady speed for better mpg. I think what you maybe mean is that your engine has less power than you'd like?

I searched and found another thread (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?1771-Question-about-auto-transmission-shift-point-for-a-1985-3Y&highlight=redline)stating the engine redline at 5500 rpm. 3700 isn't gonna hurt it, Toyota designed it to be used. Much like an auto, your shift points for a manual should be roughly proportional to your desired power output/gas pedal input.

Could be worse, my beetle has half the power, a lower redline, needs to keep the revs above a certain point to keep the cooling fan spinning, and doesn't have a 5th gear. There's only a tiny overlap between gears but at least that means there's no decisions to make. On the other end of the spectrum, the Firebird is overflowing with power and geared stupid tall: To pass someone going 50 mph, I'd shift from 6th to 2nd (also allowing the passee to enjoy the beautiful symphony. redline of 2nd is about 65 mph and rev-limiter about 70).

[Willotquentin]

hi kamesama980,

thank you to take time to answer me about my prob, my english is not that perfect.... what i mean is that i count the speed(gear) changing until i pass on the 4 and then from there i can drive to 85 mil/h if i want it to but i m at 4000 rpm nearly....
i just feel my poor engine under my seat and it s not good knowing tjat if it was shifting in the 5 gear it would be cruising at around 2500 rpm!

i just read some article and maybe i would have only 4 speed tranny? how to know?

as well my overdrive stay on unless i press and keep pressing the button on the shift central command, i read some article on that forum and i thought if i change the overdrive thermo switch ( which i can find info about only on that website) as well with the temp sender it might change the information to the tranny and shift in 5th gear....

i m lost and can t figure that out at the moment...

[kamesama980]

hi kamesama980,

thank you to take time to answer me about my prob, my english is not that perfect.... what i mean is that i count the speed(gear) changing until i pass on the 4 and then from there i can drive to 85 mil/h if i want it to but i m at 4000 rpm nearly....
i just feel my poor engine under my seat and it s not good knowing tjat if it was shifting in the 5 gear it would be cruising at around 2500 rpm!

i just read some article and maybe i would have only 4 speed tranny? how to know?

as well my overdrive stay on unless i press and keep pressing the button on the shift central command, i read some article on that forum and i thought if i change the overdrive thermo switch ( which i can find info about only on that website) as well with the temp sender it might change the information to the tranny and shift in 5th gear....

i m lost and can t figure that out at the moment...

English IS about the stupidest language on the planet. Heck you can confuse the heck out of mechanics by mixing them from different regions. one from new england says the engine has a skip, one from about anywhere else says it has a miss.

Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? your comment about the "button on the shift command" makes me think you have at automatic. Unless it's had a MUCH newer transmission swapped in, you only have a 4 speed transmission. manuals (stick shift, standard, the ones with 3-pedals for your feet) are the ones with 5 gears. 4 speed autos may seem like they have a 5th gear due to torque converter lockup.

With the auto, just let it shift on it's own. Don't try to control it. If you have to hold it down, the OD button on the shifter (command) is broken, you should not have to hold it down to use 4th gear. It should stay in the position to use OD on its own, the only reason to take it out of OD is if you are towing or have a long uphill climb.

[Willotquentin]

hi kamesama980 (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/member.php?5437-kamesama980) ,

thanks again for all the informations!

Yes it s an automatic tranny, i guess it has only 4 gears.... that s not that good... i had a lot of old car and only manual shift ( i'm from Europe ) and if i had knew that ,i would probably not buying it!
i like feeling the engine and understand when something goes wrong with it, i unfortunatly can t do that going 70mil/h on the highway during 3 hours at 4000 rpm.


I know a lot of people would say that is normal to go at 4000 rpm but i feel that the engine should be cruising at 2500 rpm.... not 4000 !:no:

for the overdrive i might not understand what is the purpose of it..... should i let the overdrive off ( that means the light is on, on the dashboard ) when i m driving on the highway or should i press the button (which is broken on the shift and doesn t old the position) to make the light goes off and i guess the overdive on....?

[PNW vanwagon]

you want overdrive on. button down. indicator light off on the dash. if OD is off - your van's running on 3 gears - not 4 so your rpms will be way high at freeway speeds

OD option is for driving around town with more pep or keeping the transmission from jumping around from 3rd to 4th to 3rd when lugging up hills

the OD is tied to a switch located under the temperature sending unit. a lot of people have fixed problems with OverDrive by simply unplugging the wire from this switch

other van users have said comfortable cruising speed for these vans is something like 70-75 max

8665

[Willotquentin]

hi Yes i saw that discussion about it and already took them out few days ago.... the wire were rotten on the sender and the OD switch...they just fell apart

i notice that soon the both of them were disconnected the temp gage didnt work anymore but for the OD nothing really change... less

i already order the temp sender and hope i did well for the OD switch because i can t find any info about it or even part ( the only one i found is that one (Part No.: 89428-28030
SWITCH, TEMPERATURE))..... is it that one for the overdrive switch?

do you know by any chance where i could buy the both connection ( wire connector) for the temp sender and OD switch?

Anyway it s a huge change knowing that i have a 4 speed and not 5

i'll be driving i guess at 60mil/h at 3000rpm :dizzy::dizzy:.... i still feel bad for the engine

[donne13]

I mean the OD didn't work when the van was cold (even though I had the OD engine temp sensor disconnected). After the transmission warmed up, then it would shift. For the 1st few months of that eventual failure it would take about 1 mile or so of freeway driving before it would shift, then for another few months it would take 2 or 3 miles. After a year or so it would take 5 or 6 miles, then it eventually stopped shifting into OD altogether. During testing I verified it was powering up, but it wouldn't change positions (stuck).

Shortly after I replaced the solenoid (which solved that problem), the transmission started shifting weird. It would not want to shift out of the low gears when floored. If I babied it, it would shift, but if I floored it again it would drop all the way down to 1st (even if I was going way too fast for 1st). It would only do this while the transmission was cold and would start shifting normal again when warm.

So I figured it must be an issue with the transmission fluid (which was synthetic and only about 2 years old). I had only put about 30k on that fluid, but I changed it out as a final "hail Mary". Over the course of 3 days, that problem gradually went away and all was good. So, almost exactly a year and 15k miles later it starts doing that low gear shifting thing again. I decided since that transmission was original and had over 250k miles on it, it was time to go. I pulled it and swapped it out with one from one of my parts vans (about 150k miles on that one). I was a little worried because that transmission had been sitting in that van for over 15 years. But that was about 4 months/5k miles ago and all is working good. I'm using the Volvo OD solenoid in this one & it's performing excellent. I'm using Amsoil synthetic ATF. Tim

Hey Tim, thanks for all the good info. What is the Volvo solenoid part #, not the "repair kit" but the actual solenoid.

thanks again, don

[timsrv]

Other than the wire connection Volvo #1239928 will interchange. Here's a list of eBay auctions (most of these are aftermarket): https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=volvo+1239928&_sacat=6000&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=15.

As mentioned earlier in this thread I got the cheapest one and it has been working fine, however it does leak out the top past the wires. The leak isn't terrible, perhaps 1 quart every 6 months.......but a leak is a leak and it makes a mess under there. If I were to get another I'd probably snag a used OE one or perhaps get a more expensive one off eBay.

[Torry33]

Hey guys,so my van runs real good and drives fine but my trans only shifts into fourth gear once in a while,usually after i have been driving on the highway for about 10 miles.After it shifts it always shifts after thatve as long as im still driving.If I STOP and shut it off for a while unless its just afew minutes I have to drive for a long while again before it shifts into fourth.But yesterday i drove over 20 miles in 3rd and it never shifted into 4th.I m getting sick of this problem!

[Kinecty]

Hey there all, when I bought my van (1986 cargo 2wd auto) the overdrive worked fine but it's been a few months since it's seen anything faster than 70kmh and I realised the OD wasn't kicking in.

The transmission works fine all round no issues at all but hitting the OD off button has no change in effect and the engine revs quite high trying to do anything more than 85kmh.

The OD light comes on and off with the button but because the transmission works fine in general I don't think it's a mechanical problem probably an electrical problem but I could be wrong.

Is there any common things I should be looking into that might cause the OD not to engage? It's probably good to mention the fluid is clean and filled to the right level.

Thanks!

[Torry33]

Hey guys,so my van runs real good and drives fine but my trans only shifts into fourth gear once in a while,usually after i have been driving on the highway for about 10 miles.After it shifts it always shifts after thatve as long as im still driving.If I STOP and shut it off for a while unless its just afew minutes I have to drive for a long while again before it shifts into fourth.But yesterday i drove over 20 miles in 3rd and it never shifted into 4th.I m getting sick of this problem!
After reading through this thread i ordered the Volvo solenoid off ebay.I will ley you know if that fixes it.

[timsrv]

1st thing both of you should do (if you haven't already) is disconnect the OD thermo switch (picture above). If that doesn't fix, then check to see if voltage is present at the solenoid with the OD turned on. If there's no voltage, then replacing the solenoid won't help (unless you're replacing with one of those bypass devises). Tim

[Torry33]

1st thing both of you should do (if you haven't already) is disconnect the OD thermo switch (picture above). If that doesn't fix, then check to see if voltage is present at the solenoid with the OD turned on. If there's no voltage, then replacing the solenoid won't help (unless you're replacing with one of those bypass devises). Tim
Hey Tim thanks!I did indeed disconnect the thermo switch without results.Ordered the Volvo overdrive solenoid on Ebay and it came today,slapped it in and ya baby!ITS back!i got 4th gear!:dance2:

[Torry33]

Hey there all, when I bought my van (1986 cargo 2wd auto) the overdrive worked fine but it's been a few months since it's seen anything faster than 70kmh and I realised the OD wasn't kicking in.

The transmission works fine all round no issues at all but hitting the OD off button has no change in effect and the engine revs quite high trying to do anything more than 85kmh.

The OD light comes on and off with the button but because the transmission works fine in general I don't think it's a mechanical problem probably an electrical problem but I could be wrong.

Is there any common things I should be looking into that might cause the OD not to engage? It's probably good to mention the fluid is clean and filled to the right level.

Thanks!
hey there,my 4x4 van was doing the same thing and a Volvo 240 overdrive solenoid fits and fixed mine.ebay has them for around 50 bucks.

[prince caspian]

Hello. I have another 87 van. And BTW Tim you were spot on with my other van Overdrive not working. You showed me how to bypass the thermo sensor in the trans and sure enough, O/D worked right now. Thank you again. New problem is now with another van that has bad overdrive switch. Got one off of ebay and now need to install it. I bought a downloadable version of the factory service manual and could not locate how to remove the gear shift handle to get to the overdrive button and connector. Can you help me out?

[dzzrtrock]

I realize that this thread is ancient, but I have run across an 85 van with an auto at a good price. She says the solenoid isn't working so it doesn't want to go over 30 MPH. That sounds like something other than the solenoid to me. But on the off chance that you guys say she's right, is it possible to just toggle this in somehow? Would it be a hot wire to the solenoid through a switch or a grounding wire from the solenoid?
Or should I just take along a drill and do what the one guy posted in this thread did?




That indicates a problem with the overdrive system (not the cooling system). Keep in mind the OD system should engage at 55 deg C (131 deg F) so even a stuck open engine thermostat will allow the van to warm up enough to activate the system. If your heater works correctly (blows hot air) then your coolant temp is definitely above 55 deg C.

When the van fails to go into overdrive, the 1st thing to do is check the 7.5A fuse in the top center of your fuse box:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0366-1.jpg

This fuse also supplies power to your gauges and some of your warning lights, so if that stuff works then it's probably not it, but it's easy to check so you should check it anyhow.

If the fuse checks good take off your center console and inspect all of the wires in this area. Make sure they are all connected securely and free of damage. Note: shorted or grounded wire(s) in this area can prevent your OD from working, so make sure the wires have separation (not pinched together) and make sure the wire insulation is intact with no exposed copper. Pay particular attention to the blue/white wires and the little blue box that sits up in front of the shifter (under the console cover). That box is your overdrive relay (on 2wd vans only). Note: the 4wd van has a slightly different / more complicated OD system, but since yours is a 2wd we'll stick to 2wd for the sake of this discussion.

Here's the relay used on 2wd vans:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0340.jpg

Here's the harness that goes to the switch:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0342.jpg

Make sure it's hooked up to this plug coming from the shift mechanism. Note: two of the wires inside this black protective tube are the OD switch wires. Since the switch side wires (actual wires coming from the shift lever switch) are subject to change color, always identify them by tracking them up to the shift lever or identify by the wire color on the "van side" of the harness. The colors on the harness are wht/blk & orange. One thing worth noting. The switch does not turn-on the OD (it actually limits it). Electrically speaking, when the switch is closed, the OD will not work and the "O/D OFF" indicator light will illuminate. When the switch is open, the "O/D OFF" light will go out and the van will be free to shift into OD (assuming there are no other issues).
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0344.jpg


If the relay and wires in this area are hooked up and look good, then remove the passenger seat, peal back the carpet and remove the big engine access panel (Instructions on how to remove are covered HERE (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?26-Accessing-the-van-engine!)). Once off you will have access to your OD thermo switch.

Here is it's location:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2110.jpg

The thermo switch is N/C (Normally Closed). When the van is cold (less than 55 deg C) it grounds out the OD circuit preventing the transmission from shifting into OD. Once the coolant temp hits 55C the switch opens and that enables the OD circuit. Because of the way Toyota set it up it's easy to bypass the thermo switch. All you need to do is unplug the gray harness connector to the thermo switch and that's it! If the thermo switch is the problem, then the OD system will now be active.

If disconnecting the thermo switch doesn't work, then you'll need to check the OD solenoid on the transmission. It's on the drivers side of the tranny here:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0354.jpg

It is grounded through the transmission and is activated by a single wire. Here is where that wire connects to the harness:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0357.jpg

And here is the connector position when installed in the van:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_0360.jpg

Before you get involved with testing components make sure the solenoid is in good physical condition and verify it's hooked up to the van wire harness. Trace the wires as far as you can to verify there's no physical damage to them either.

If you are unable to resolve the problem at this point, let me know and I'll walk you through component level troubleshooting. Tim

[timsrv]

The overdrive only comes into play after you're done getting up to speed and you ease off on the throttle. Even without OD you should be able to go up to 75 mph or so. The OD just helps to reduce engine RPM when you're cruising. If your engine is approaching RPM red-line at 30 mph and doesn't shift, then it's stuck in 1st gear and that could mean a transmission rebuild is in your future. It could also be something simple, but I'm no transmission expert, so I'd probably take it to a reputable transmission shop for an evaluation. If it simply doesn't have enough power to go over 30 mph and the engine isn't at high RPM, then it's more likely an engine related issue. I wouldn't waste much time with the OD system until you get the other more serious issue(s) resolved. Tim

PS: the single wire going to the OD solenoid carries 12VDC +. With the key in the "run" position, you should be able to turn it on and off and hear the click of it engaging/disengaging. If you don't hear it, then it could be a bad solenoid, but odds are it's probably just not getting power.

[dzzrtrock]

Thank you suh!
The seller was a fleamale who'd had it for quite some time but couldn't answer basic questions about it. That "30mph" sounded more like a "stuck in 1st gear" to me, too. But I had to ask "just in case" since I'm working on another van right now that's also an auto.

Somebody either more knowledgeable or more adventurous (or both) than I finally bought it when her price hit $750.

Hopefully I don't run into a similar problem on mine.

Thanks again.

[RocketRobMT]

Tim,
I having the same issues but with a 4wd 87 LE Van. Any chance you could explain this "more complicated OD system"

" Note: the 4wd van has a slightly different / more complicated OD system, but since yours is a 2wd we'll stick to 2wd for the sake of this discussion."

Thanks

[timsrv]

Check out post #25, page 2 of this thread.

[joedmnav]

hey there,my 4x4 van was doing the same thing and a Volvo 240 overdrive solenoid fits and fixed mine.ebay has them for around 50 bucks.


What Volvo part No. did it? Thanks

[Diy2k]

It’s the Volvo 240 OD valve. If you google it you’ll see it’s very similar to the one we have.

The old OD needs to be sliced into the wiring since it does not share the same plug.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-Auto-Transmission-Overdrive-Solenoid-with-O-Rings-240-262-264-265-740-760/272045902615?fits=Model%3A240%7CMake%3AVolvo&hash=item3f57330b17:g:SAcAAOSwEgVWR4Q0


And the Bypass plug to cancel out the Od

https://www.amazon.com/Overdrive-Solenoid-Solution-Permanent-1239928kit/dp/B00VET3N50

[timsrv]

Also, try looking at post #107 on page 6 of this thread.

[Diy2k]

Thanks Timberland

The link Timberland posted show cheaper OD solenoids

[timsrv]

If you never turn off your OD and you want a permanent solution, then I'd go with the bypass device. Tim

[RocketRobMT]

Check out post #25, page 2 of this thread.

Thanks Tim-o

[Floridaman]

Has anyone here actually installed the Volvo bypass plug?

My '85 2wd isn't getting overdrive, and I tried to look at the wiring, but... The wiring around the overdrive relay is in a rather sorry state, and the wire count/colors do not match what should be there according to the diagrams and photos in this thread. Previous owner seems to have done something strange. Yes, I have unplugged the coolant sensor. It didn't help.

Instead of messing around with the wiring any further, I'm curious about the behavior of that plug. The ebay description seems to say that it locks the vehicle out of overdrive? Of course, that is for the intended volvo, so I want to confirm with you guys what the real behavior is in a toyota. For those of you that have installed it, does it permanently enable or disable the overdrive?

Where I live, I need to be able to drive at least 60mph to get nearly anywhere, and doing that without overdrive isn't good for my fuel economy or my peace of mind with a 36 year old engine. The overdrive needs to work. Thanks for the help.

[MarkH]

I installed it on my '85. My overdrive solenoid was getting voltage when it should and when I removed it and tested it with a battery, it opened fine, but when it was installed and I was driving on the highway, the trans wouldn't shift to 4th gear. In hindsight maybe the orifice in the solenoid was plugged? Anyway, I installed the Volvo bypass plate. At first it leaked since the supplied o-ring was too thin for the groove in the plate. I replaced it with a thicker o-ring and it stopped leaking. As for how it works, it works fine. The trans shifts in and out of overdrive at about 70 or so km/hr like it should. As for the "overdrive" terminology, some people say when it's engaged the overdrive is "on". Others say when it is disengaged, overdrive is on since you get more power going up hills in only 3rd gear. Anyway, if I want more power to accelerate up a steep hill, I just press down harder on the accelerator and the trans kicks back to 3rd like it should. Personally I don't see the point of the selectable overdrive switch in the first place.

[Floridaman]

Great, I'll order one! As long as I get normal use of all the gears, I don't care about losing the ability to "turn off" overdrive... It's a silly feature anyways. My Tundra has it too, cant find a good use for it at all, unless maybe I was towing something heavy up a hill. And I have no plans to do that with a 90hp Van :rol:

[originalkwyjibo]

unless maybe I was towing something heavy up a hill.This is one of the purposes as well as reduced load and wear on the transmission and engine at lower speeds. If a gasoline engine is constantly operating at or under 1500-2000 rpms say at 25-35 mph you are lugging the engine when you try to accelerate which can actually harm it. By pressing the throttle harder you get it to downshift but that causes the transmission to shift up and down frequently when traveling at slower speeds increasing wear on it. By being able to lock out 4th gear at slower speeds you are able to keep you engine rpms in a more useable range and the transmission doesn't need to frequently shift up and down. Of course if you live somewhere largely flat this is not as much of an issue but I live in the PNW where nothing is flat and a 1.3 mile run to the grocery store involves 3 hills. Mine stays locked out unless I know I'm going to be sustaining 40mph or more. The whole point of selectable gearing is to keep the engine rpms at a usable compromise between economy and power. Contrary to reasonable logic, maximum economy is not necessarily at the lowest rpm possible. Of course, there is a massive number of variables for these circumstances as well.

[Floridaman]

Put my volvo "fake solenoid" in today. Happy to report it works perfectly! I'm now getting all 4 gears and the van can happily cruise along at 65+mph without excessive engine rpm. I don't know exactly what RPM I'm getting, as my van does not have a tachometer, but it's still a night and day difference.

[micah202]

I've checked fuse, checked the overdrive relay and switch are connected, and the dash light goes on,off with the button, but no effect on rpm, even at 50-60mph, with verified 180degree temp.

Disconnecting the thermo switch hasn't brought any joy either, so I'm prepping to take a look at the solenoid and it's wiring.
....In Tim's great notes, he mentions... ''It is grounded through the transmission and is activated by a single wire.''

I'm wondering , if the solenoid is grounded through it's body, can I simply try a jumper wire straight from the battery to that single wire connection,, is there a 'click' or something that'd indicate it's working? .....and can I test one I have on an oldie but goodie spare transmission, ground the body, jump the wire? <;~]

[micah202]

You never feel the need to gear down on ice? ...or lock in to a lower gear on a long climb? I suppose your username explains it,, there ain't no long hills or snow in florida! <;~D


Great, I'll order one! As long as I get normal use of all the gears, I don't care about losing the ability to "turn off" overdrive... It's a silly feature anyways. My Tundra has it too, cant find a good use for it at all, unless maybe I was towing something heavy up a hill. And I have no plans to do that with a 90hp Van :rol:

[micah202]

Can you please confirm a couple of details of your successful solenoid replacement with the Volvo part.... Yours is a 2wd? Which specific Volvo solenoid did you order? Link? .... Is it a simple install, or is there a few details I should know? Thanks <;~]


Put my volvo "fake solenoid" in today. Happy to report it works perfectly! I'm now getting all 4 gears and the van can happily cruise along at 65+mph without excessive engine rpm. I don't know exactly what RPM I'm getting, as my van does not have a tachometer, but it's still a night and day difference.

[timsrv]

Micah, the only difference with the Volvo solenoid is the connector end on the wire. Just cut it off and butt connect it to part of your old wire. If you use an OE Volvo solenoid, I'm guessing quality is similar or possibly the same as Toyota. The ebay solenoids that were linked to earlier are aftermarket, and not of the highest quality. As I mentioned, I got one and it worked as advertised BUT, and it's a big but ()()(lol), it leaked. The leak was small though and came through the body of the new solenoid. It wasn't enough to make a spot on my concrete, but over the course of ~ 5k miles it would lose about a cup of so of ATF. That made a mess on the side of the transmission and on the undercarriage of the van. I eventually swapped it out for a good used one with ~ 200k miles on it and that solved the leak issue.

Regarding your other question. YES, you can test it by applying +12VDC through the single wire while grounding the body. If it's good there will be an audible "click". If you're testing a loose part you will also see slight movement in the middle of the side that mounts to the transmission. Tim

[micah202]

Thanks Tim. Which specific Volvo solenoid did you order? Possible to share a specific link? I couldn't find anything specific in the thread, would hate to order wrong. <;~o

[timsrv]

There's a link in post #121 of this thread (top of this page) to the cheap one. There's another link on post #107 (page 6) to some more. Tim

[FionatheTV]

i recently swapped in a 89 4wd auto le cluster into my 2wd 88 cargo, lost od Lol 😆 , ive seen many post pertaining to the od nonsense but never this , i must of repinned something wrong to my doors , i can hear something clicking when the drivers door is open, when close everything sounds good. When i hit my od theres my door light comes on faintly . Thank you

[micah202]

.... Haha, I'll bet your OD works when you have the door open a bit! :lol:

.... I just got through a funny process. OD was working intermittently. I changed the solenoid and that fixed it for a while, then it was out again. Finally I got hold of another relay, and that fixed the problem.

[FionatheTV]

I wonder if so ahahah but i gotta find a cluster wiring diagram with colors to find the od wire lol and plug it into the od plug on the back of the 4wd cluster?

[micah202]

In the meantime, you can replace the solenoid with the OD roflroflroflroflit kit,, OD functions then, yer just can't gear down....

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/362090245964

[filterway]

Hi all,

I have a 88 4wd auto transmission. On a cold engine condition, the van goes on OD but automatically disengage for fews second and then going back to OD. When engine warm, never had this issue.

It looks like kind of hesitation on a cold state to stay on the OD.

What can cause this downshift, thermo switch issue? It looks that temperature have to do with that situation.

Thanks

[trodas22]

https://swedishcarparts.com/
Overdrive Solenoid Substitute Repair Volvo 240 740 940 OEM AW 1239928 block off plate (https://swedishcarparts.com/parts/1562-overdrive-solenoid-substitute-repair-volvo-240-740-940-oem-aw-1239928-block-off-plate)

I have a 1985 Toyota Van that had an over drive problems.
I purchased this part that was designed by the owner of swedishcarparts in IL.
basicaly just eliminated the use of the OVD push Button.


Van Life!:redvan:

[thevanburenbys]

Just another happy customer who solved his 87 4wd le overdrive issue by unplugging the thermo switch. This site is an incredible resource, feeling grateful.

[Temassi]

Probably a dumb question but wouldn't cutting the cord for the solenoid work without installing the block off plate?

[timsrv]

Cutting the cord will prevent OD operation (it needs 12V to open/allow OD). The plate is machined to simulate an activated solenoid. You can also use a Dremel with a cutting wheel to alter the "business end" of the solenoid as shown in the image below:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Drive%20Train/OD%20solenoid%20mod_zpsifrgyfk2.jpg


Just keep in mind this would not be reversible..... but not sure why you would want to reverse it. Tim

[Temassi]

Ahh that makes sense. I've got the Volvo one in the mail but now I'm temped to just try this now while I wait for it in the mail...:cool: