So SAD -93 All Trac Front Axel preventing SAD shaft removal

[Bobalew]

I LOVE this van! We bought it new - and it has been there and back with us. Kids are in college now and wife has a nicer sedan. I am left with the Van and I am OK with that, despite much ribbing from my insecure pick-up driving red-neck co-workers.

Today I started to remove the SAD shaft to replace (for the second time) the couplings. The first time, I gave up and let a mechanic do the job. Not this time - I am determined! It is actually disconnected now, but I cant get the damn thing out. Found a thread on this forum that told me I will need to remove the front axle. That makes sense, it seems to be SO in the way, and my 2wd manual does not show that it would be a problem.

Tomorrow I will attempt to remove the axle, so that I can remove the SAD shaft, so that I can remove the couplings (what else am I gonna do on a 4 day weekend?).

Hope someone can give me a few pointers on what needs to be done with the axel, and possibly give me a clue about the imposing numbers 4 & 5 equipment housing stays, that the manual warns not to remove, but whose presence seems to indicate further trouble ahead...

Thanks!

[timsrv]

I can't say it was an easy job, but I replaced the couplings on mine without removing the shaft or the axle. Changing the engine side was pretty straight forward, but the front was a PITA. I took the radiator shroud off and removed the clutch fan. Then after removing the rear coupling I moved the entire accessory assy forward a bit for better access. I used a hammer and a screwdriver to apply sideways pressure and knock the bushings loose from their bores.

Since 93 couplings are not available from Toyota, I assume you are using aftermarket couplings. Are you using the polyurethane type or the aluminum type? Good luck with the job and let us know how you end up doing it. Tim

Oh yeah, here's a PDF that can be helpful when working on SADS:

[Bobalew]

Thanks Tim! I ended up getting her out yesterday, like you, WITHOUT removing the axle:clap:. I did need to unbolt the accessory assy, lift it and strap it in to a higher, slightly angled level. Then there was a very specific angle where t FINALLY came out. I know this thing is Japanese, but it was a real Chinese puzzle. Rebuilt the tough end on the bench with the aluminum aftermarket part, got it back in and lowered the assy back in place (with a little help from my son).

I had painted the location of the assy bolts to return it to the same location, although I doubt it was done before, and I wonder if it's truly where it needs to be:cnfsd:.

As I said below, the manual warned against removing the nos. 4 & 5 equipment housing stays because of alignment. They had to come out too, so I painted marks on these also, but found that the three bolts pretty much leave no room for adjustment.

Today's project, everything (including the relatively easy engine side coupling) goes back together - When finished, I will take the time to write the steps I took (in the order I SHOULD have taken) for future use.

Thanks again for your help! Have a great 4th of July!

[timsrv]

That's great. I should have mentioned the importance of marking old locations, but looks like you figured all that out on your own. But then again, like you said, who knows if the last guy did any of that :dizzy:. I have my doubts on the quality of any aftermarket couplings, so if they fail prematurely who's to say it was due to misalignment or due to poor quality parts.

I was lucky enough to score several entire genuine Toyota SADS assemblies (complete with couplings) off of eBay a few years back. Next time I do the SADS I plan on using one of those.

If you get to the point where you need to do it again, you would have the option of getting a later model SADS from a junk yard, then you can install new genuine Toyota couplings on it and have something that will most likely last much longer. Tim

[Bobalew]

Job Complete on 4th of July!

Steps for next time - This is how I would do it again - lessons learned and all that.

Proceed at your own risk - this worked for me, but I am not a professional mechanic. There are certain aspects of this job that must be done correctly to avoid serious injury. I am posting this to provide a record of how I did it and what worked for me - not as an instruction or suggestion to anyone else.
Lifted front end, set emergency brake and block rear wheel - I lifted both sides behind the front wheel at the jack points and added jack stands for extra security.
Removed unrelated, but impinging equipment - Don't skimp here, like i did - get it done, now and save the frustration!:(:

a. Plastic covers under car - there are three, one in front, one on the left and one on the right - take them all completely off.
b. Plastic vent leading from grill to air conditioner intake
c. Battery - not just the negative termanal - take it out!
d. Top of plastic radiator cover
Drained oil and remove oil filter - sounds weird, but i needed that thing out of there to remove and install the rear portion of the shaft
Loosen the nuts you can access on the radiator fan
Loosen the alternator, loosen the belt, turn radiator fan to access remaining nut(s) - tighten alternator and belt, loosen nut(s), remove the fan.379
Remove alternator and belt
Remove the radiator two hoses from the top of the radiator and take off the rest of that damn plastic cover - I tried to leave it on and finally got tired of all the cuts and scrapes - trust me. Removing the hoses will leak fluid - good to have a bucket under the car for this.
381
There is a hose at the bottom that held to this piece by a simple clamp - just pop the hose off the clamp. The cowling is tricky to get off, consider this practice for later.
Adjust compressor to remove belt

Unless I forgot something, the front end of the car should now look like this...
380
Remove the bottom pulley
loosen the three bolts holding the shaft to the accessory assembly (now we are getting somewhere!):yes:
Back under car, remove the "Number 3 Equipment Drive Housing Stay" shown below with the white paint dot
382
Remove the "Numbers 4 and 5 Equipment Drive Housing Stays" - Manual says not to remove unless necessary - because of possible adjustment issues - After much pain, I found it very necessary to remove them. I marked them very carefully, but found there was no adjustment to be had - three bolts on each, no elongated holes.
383384385386387
Remove shaft from Engine side of car - shown here with new coupling - but you get the idea. Manual says not to remove the nuts holding the coupling, but that assumes you are not removing it. Take them off and see if you can remove the coupling under the car - it will be very tricky getting the shaft out and this will make a difference - your replacing it anyway. There might be some resistance on some of the holes - there was on mine - tap, tap, tap. :wall:
388
Back to the top of the car - to get the room I needed to get the shaft out, I needed to lift the accessory assembly. His is not as hard as it seems. If you do not remove the compressor, hoses, and other items, things kind of hold together nicely. The assembly is bolted in two places, and here there is room for adjustment, so I carefully marked the location. OK, not carefully, but adequately. The paint on the nut and washer weren't necessary - the paint around the washer showing it's location was critical to re-assembly.
389390
At this point, a helper or some strap is needed. I opted for the strap, placing it around any solid piece of the assembly I could find. The pulley, the alternator bracket, etc., then around the air duct housing. Lifting, tightening, lifting, tightening - tricky business, but like I said, the remaining hoses and other items seem to help keep it manageable. probably only lifted 6 inches, if that.
Now you should have the clearance to get the sucker out - lifting and moving the back end towards where the oil filter used to be. Be patient, there is one position that will allow removal.
Once out, R&R the remaining old coupling and work your way back to a working vehicle - the hard part is over - re-assembly is cake. Don't for get to top off your cooling system and oil.:thmbup:

391392

[timsrv]

Awesome write-up! Thanks for taking the time to share that with us. I know it takes time and effort to document repairs. Your contributions are greatly appreciated. Tim

[mickeysailor32]

Pretty good write up, thanks. I notice on my 1995 Previa LE with S/C that I do not have the rectangular washers shown in your pictures DSCF3018a.jpg & (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=391&d=1309888170)DSCF3019a.jpg (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392&d=1309888189). It's just bolt heads. Does anyone know if this is a problem or if the design of the kit changed? The engine end did not have them, but I couldn't see the accessory end. Are they supposed to be at both ends? Maybe the previous owner accidentally left them off. I understand that he did this job himself.

Thanks!

[timsrv]

They should be there. He must have had some parts left over after the job was done :doh:. I'm not sure how important they are.......I suspect they are there as a "fail safe" to help hold things together if/when the rubber parts disintegrate. Unless you're having problems with it I'd probably just let it go. Not having them there would make inspection of the flex-couplings much easier. When they start to fail, don't mess around, just replace them ASAP. Tim

[mickeysailor32]

Thanks. Mine are failing pretty bad. The shaft is pretty sloppy. I can see how the rectangular washers would help now. Maybe that's why it's failing after 4 years and very few miles.

Anyone have the torque specs for the shaft bolts and other bolts that have to be loosened? How can I find that out without buying the Toyota manual. I'm on limited funds right now.

Would I be correct to assume that you have to get an open end wrench behind the aluminum disc on some of the heads of some of the shaft bolts? Looks tight and tricky.

Thanks for any help!

[timsrv]

I'll be happy to answer anything I'm able to but you should 1st take the time to download/read the PDF file in my post above (attached to 2nd post in this thread) :). Tim

[mickeysailor32]

TIMSRV, thanks again so much! I didn't see that PDF the first time through. I wasn't a member then and you can't download until you're a member. I got it now though.

Great information, but it doesn't mention the torques for the other support pieces that have to be disassembled to remove the shaft. Any idea what those should be or where to find the info?

Mickey

[timsrv]

If you own and plan on keeping one of these it's a really good idea to get a Factory Service Manual. They are almost always available on eBay for around $75.00. Occasionally they come up for under $50 (just check there every so often). Don't mess around with Chilton or Haynes, get the Toyota one. In the mean time, here's some pictures I took from my 91 Previa service manual. This isn't the entire section, just the parts that talk about torque. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Previa%20Cooling%20System/IMG_1379.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Previa%20Cooling%20System/IMG_1380.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Previa%20Cooling%20System/IMG_1381.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Previa%20Cooling%20System/IMG_1382.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Previa%20Cooling%20System/IMG_1385.jpg

[mickeysailor32]

Thanks again. That will help a lot. I'm totally broke, so I'm going to have try this myself and can't afford any extra bucks for the manual right now. I hear ya for the value of a good manual though. I have manuals for my other cars from past times. I've got to order the kit then plan a weekend for the work. - Mickey

[byronb]

Hi all Great write up I have installed new sad bearings in my 95 estima but have a slight vibration low revs how as i didnt see the post about marking everything for realignement i just ripped it out so i am thinking alignement is off as the sad axles line up on the bushes could it be the equipment drive mounts i removed thats out of line does anyone know how to adjust these thanks guys

[celticvan]

Thanks for the write up. I too cant afford a manual at this time and I am wondering if anyone can tell me the torque specs on the bushings themselves?

[timsrv]

All the torque specs are on the 1st page of the PDF file attached to my 1st post in this thread. Tim

[celticvan]

Thanks again Tim

[rolficus]

Thank you all for your input very very helpfull I replaced my couplings without removing to much .after removing alt belt aircon belt I undone the engine side first. Then the accsry side I had to loosen off the 3 main bolts where the pully bolts onto and also took the centre bracket out which allows the accrys to rock forward I then removed all nuts from the couplings (use 2 spanners and watch the shaft it will rottate with the motor from your force )here's the hard part prying the old coupling free I tried for a long time with not much luck:wall: so I decided to blow torch them off using a butaine burner once free I was able to pull the shaft out the bottom to clean up for reinstalling (hammer the old bushes off the shaft very easy )I made sure I marked the shaft all the way along front to back before i started so it would balance right and line up when reinstalling just make sure you note the way the bolts and bush holes line up before you undo them during removal.
when reinstalling do not put couplings on before you feed shaft back into position it is tricky but worth installing couplings under Neath and position lining all your markings up before tensioning all your bolts then replace everything the way it was don't forget to tighten your bolts to the manufactures specs thanks for your help job well done :clap::thmbup::silvervan:

[rolficus]

thanks tim I did it your way I unbolted the couplings underneath and undid the main stay then removed the shaft was not easy but at least I didn't have to drain fluids and remove to much:thmbup:

[timsrv]

Glad it helped. FWIW, other than torque specs, I rarely follow the manual. If I can see an easier way I'll just go for it. Of course sometimes the "easy way" ends up taking longer and being a bigger PITA :wall:. In this case I have doubts as to whether or not my way is faster, but like my dad always said "you can't argue with success" :)>:.

[shoo]

Hello and i hope this tread is still active...i have a 94 AWD previa and i bought the coupling replacement kit, but i assume my previa has 14 mm holes in the coupling but descovered it is the old 12 mm, the question is if i can simply resize the holes from 12 mm to 14 mm or it will not work?
thanks for any help on that
Avishay

[pdgizwiz]

I believe that it would work IF you had a way to do it accurately. I can't see doing it with a hand drill or a rat-tail file.
Better to find a '95 or newer shaft, or source a pair of the old 12mm couplers.
The Febest # for the older ones is TDS-428.

[timsrv]

Hello and i hope this tread is still active...

Yes! Thank you for posting here (rather than starting a new thread). This helps keep the site organized.

:whs: It would be possible to resize the shaft holes, but that would require precision locating and sizing. There's also a precision depth requirement that would be difficult to achieve without the proper equipment (it's a job for a machine shop). If your old shaft were the last one known in existence, I could see it, but these shafts have not yet become rare. Perhaps they will be in a few years, but currently there are a lot of Previas with the bigger hole size shafts in the salvage yards. You could probably get one on eBay, but then you have to wonder how it was treated during removal and shipping. There's also the chance they won't send the complete shaft (you'll need the parts that bolt to both sides of the couplers). Personally I'd rather go to a pick-n-pull, find a good looking one, and remove myself (also good training for working on yours). Of course there's always the option of going with your existing shaft and using the aftermarket couplers. I've done that, but in hindsight I wish I would have gone the other way. I've since picked up a salvage yard shaft (with the bigger holes) and have it sitting here as a spare. Tim

[tbkilb01]

I Recieved a set of Febest TDS-428 for my 1992 shaft and they look really good. All 12mm inserts, no variances and the rubber feels really good. I was going to get a newer shaft off a 95 since that 95 is in the Boneyard awaiting the crusher and replace with the newer febest couplers, but I figured since my original 92 shaft was still working and the couplers are still doing great, (just a slight vibration in drive while foot on the brake, that I'd go ahead get a couple TDS-428 for later on while they are clearance priced and readily availiable. I replaced the factory installed ones on my 92 about 10 years ago but I dont recall them being made in China, however, they were more than $18 each! If I recall correctly, they were from Germany. All this China made merchandise is everywhere nowadays! :swear:

[pdgizwiz]

That's great - are the bolt sleeves exactly 12mm? The OEM sleeves from the battered coupling I removed from an early SADS are 12.00mm. The smaller of the sleeves on the Febest couplings I got were 12.5 or so. Also, the stock ones have a .5mm chamfer on the end, and the Febest part's sleeves don't.

I bought a pair of similar couplings on ebay three or four years ago that I rebuilt an early shaft with, and they worked fine. I don't remember if there was a brand name on them at all though. Guess I got lucky.

[tbkilb01]

Theres definitely a bevel on each insert. All measure 12mm. Both couplers look great. Hopefully I wont need these for a while. When I do, well lets hope they fit.

[pdgizwiz]

Sorry, I wasn't clear. I meant to refer to the chamfer on the OD of the sleeve. I'l guess it's to help with assembly, since the counterbore in the shaft components is a little smaller than the sleeve. I can't think of a reason to put a chamfer on the ID. Here's an OEM 12mm sleeve:

3270

Here's a closeup of my Febest 14mm sleeve, which looks rather like yours, with a chamfer on the ID:

3271

I don't have an OEM 14mm to look at, until I take the SADS off my '97. That's not gonna happen for a while.

I perused ebay and there are quite a few of these things posted for sale now, running around $60 /pair.
Most are clearly posted as either '91 - '94 or '95 - '97. Many now list the critical diameter in the description, some in the title, but there's not much in the way of consistency regarding the 12mm number. This one says 12.5. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/EQUIPMENT-DRIVE-SHAFT-COUPLING-91-94-TOYOTA-PREVIA-TUBE-DIAMETER-12-5mm-/321809434243?fits=Model%3APrevia&hash=item4aed564683:g:W~gAAOSwnDxUpwSK&vxp=mtr) At least one says 12.1 :dizzy:.

Could be there are outfits buying the rubber bits from Febest and doing the assembly. The main aluminum part varies, too. Some are clearly machined, like the OEM units. Some look like they've been sandblasted. In my pair from Febest I got one of each. I can only guess how they source these parts... Very strange...

[Zskolb]

Hello all.

I recently purchased a 1991 Toyota Previa with 137K miles. Heading out for a 4 month road trip in it this summer. Decided to attempt the SADS replacement before I leave, so I bought the $60 replacement bushings on ebay, and got started.

First thing I would mention to others, don't remove the oil and oil filter. I didn't need to, and got the shaft out fine without the oil filter being removed. Obviously, others have found it helpful, so your mileage may vary, I just did not find it necessary in my case.

I did remove the radiator, and I did find that to be very helpful.

This job was not too bad, it did take me many hours, but a good project for a DIY mechanic, in my opinion.

I replaced the SADS, and got everything put back together, started the beautiful old van back up, and had horrible, bone shaking vibrations. Immediately turned off the van, and tried it again. Same thing - horrible vibrations. Worth mentioning here - prior to replacing the SADS, there was not any noticeable vibrations. I replaced them because I am about to live and camp out of the van for the summer, so I thought it couldn't hurt to replace them. They were also all cracked upon my inspection prior to replacement.

Today, I am attempting to troubleshoot and figure out what is the cause of the issue. I jacked up the van, and had my friend start the van while I peeked underneath to try and see what the issue is. The whole accessory parts unit is vibrating horribly, the alternator, power steering pump, and A/C compressor. Anyone know why this might be?

I checked all of the attachment bolts, and rechecked their tightness, and all seems to be fine. Also worth mentioning, for others attempting this job, and to help me troubleshoot, I made the mistake of not marking the shaft prior to removal. Stupid me, I know. With that being said, is that possibly the issue causing the vibrations, is the misalignment of the shaft? If it is as easy as that, then I guess I have to start all over, take it all back apart, and rotate the shaft 1 rotation, and hope for the best. It seems there are 3 possible ways to align the shaft, so I may need to redo this job 1-2 more times until I get it right, since I did not mark it.

Anyone have any input? Thanks for your help!

I guess the plus side of this whole mess is I will be very competent with the SADS job going forward, able to help others now.

[pdgizwiz]

I do not believe that it is important to mark the location of the shaft with respect to the dampener on the front of the engine. What IS important is that you mark the relative locations of the three components of the shaft when the "revolvers" are removed. The shaft is balanced as a separate unit, and that's one reason that Toyota only offered entire shaft assemblies as replacement parts - they could assure that they were balanced that way.
Did the bolt sleeves on the revolvers you purchased fit into the sockets of the shaft components? Did you note that one end of the bolt sleeves are longer than the other, and that the long end is what is to fit into the sockets?

[zak99b5]

Yikes. I am about to undertake this repair, but in my case I already have vibrations in the accessory housing.

Never heard of of anyone getting more vibration afterward. I hope mine goes well.

And I'll be sure to matchmark all the parts before disassembly.

[Zskolb]

I do not believe that it is important to mark the location of the shaft with respect to the dampener on the front of the engine. What IS important is that you mark the relative locations of the three components of the shaft when the "revolvers" are removed. The shaft is balanced as a separate unit, and that's one reason that Toyota only offered entire shaft assemblies as replacement parts - they could assure that they were balanced that way.
Did the bolt sleeves on the revolvers you purchased fit into the sockets of the shaft components? Did you note that one end of the bolt sleeves are longer than the other, and that the long end is what is to fit into the sockets?


Thank you for the quick response. I have the shaft back out now, and inspected the revolver placement. It was correct, with the long ends fitting snuggly into where they should be.

Since I did not mark the locations of the 3 shaft parts upon initial removal, what would you recommend at this point? Take it to a driveline shop and have them check the balance? Then reposition at the shop if necessary? Seems easier than rotating the parts, putting everything back together on the van and hoping for the best, then possibly having to reposition once more, removing everything again, a few more hours of work?

[shoo]

i must say that what you describe sounds more then just incorrect position, it could be it...but i would check everything around, look for loose pare freedom in bearings, make sure that the sleeves of the rubber bushing fit correctly inside the small groove in the drive shaft itself and in the corresponding part; -the drive shaft has 3 holes but there is a small notch i.e. the screws are the same screws for all models - 8 mm i think- but that small notch can be 12 mm or 14 mm make sure you have the right one and that the metal sleeve diameter correspond with the notch diameter.
i am saying that because i have just did my sads but in my case the shaft itself was bent (and even so it didn't make the sounds you describe...- but anyhow i had to replace it, so i got one from a rack and just replaced it, so obviously i had no markings and so far it is OK. maybe i was just lucky...
BTW in my case someone (previous owner) replaced the front end where the pulley fits with different type to i had 12 mm in one side and 14 on the other so i used the 12 mm sads and machined 3 small sleeves with inner diameter of 12 mm and outer diameter of 14 as an adapters.
anyways good luck with it

[Zskolb]

i must say that what you describe sounds more then just incorrect position, it could be it...but i would check everything around, look for loose pare freedom in bearings, make sure that the sleeves of the rubber bushing fit correctly inside the small groove in the drive shaft itself and in the corresponding part; -the drive shaft has 3 holes but there is a small notch i.e. the screws are the same screws for all models - 8 mm i think- but that small notch can be 12 mm or 14 mm make sure you have the right one and that the metal sleeve diameter correspond with the notch diameter.
i am saying that because i have just did my sads but in my case the shaft itself was bent (and even so it didn't make the sounds you describe...- but anyhow i had to replace it, so i got one from a rack and just replaced it, so obviously i had no markings and so far it is OK. maybe i was just lucky...
BTW in my case someone (previous owner) replaced the front end where the pulley fits with different type to i had 12 mm in one side and 14 on the other so i used the 12 mm sads and machined 3 small sleeves with inner diameter of 12 mm and outer diameter of 14 as an adapters.
anyways good luck with it

Thanks for your input. I checked the dimensions of the sleeves and the holes in the driveline, both are 12mm.

[Kurtanius21]

I am not sure of the shaft is interchangeable, but are you sure you didn't install it backwards? The thick side towards the engine and the thin side toward the accessories. When you reinstall it, make sure the angular offset isn't too high. There's an old thread about it on this forum. Checking the angle will help you verify it is installed correctly.

[Zskolb]

I am not sure of the shaft is interchangeable, but are you sure you didn't install it backwards? The thick side towards the engine and the thin side toward the accessories. When you reinstall it, make sure the angular offset isn't too high. There's an old thread about it on this forum. Checking the angle will help you verify it is installed correctly.

Thanks for your reply. I double checked the shaft, and it was correct, thin side towards the front and thick in the back. Good thinking, as that never crossed my mind.

Edit - Also, I tried searching for the thread about angular offset, and it only brought up this thread we are currently in. Couldn't find it, anyone know which thread we are referring to?

[Zskolb]

Took the complete shaft, all 3 parts, and the revolvers into the driveline shop today. The guy there said they can't balance it because they don't have the jig for the balancing machine that will fit this old driveline setup the Previa has, and he doubted anywhere else in town will have it. I will search more tomorrow. I guess that is the price you pay for owning the beautiful Previa.

His suggestion was to mark the 3 parts, install, and hope for the best. Then if the vibrating continues, take it apart and rotate. Then rinse and repeat until I get it right. Wow, going to be a pro at this thing by the time I get it complete.

I will be all over the western US and Canada this summer, and I am willing to help anyone do the SADS repair if needed. Message me your location. Price is some dinner and beer, would love to help.

Thanks for the input, I will keep you updated.

[originalkwyjibo]

Edit - Also, I tried searching for the thread about angular offset, and it only brought up this thread we are currently in. Couldn't find it, anyone know which thread we are referring to?

Post #34 on page two.
http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?3471-Where-is-the-best-place-to-buy-the-best-quality-SAD-coupling-kit/page2&highlight=sads

[zak99b5]

His suggestion was to mark the 3 parts, install, and hope for the best. Then if the vibrating continues, take it apart and rotate. Then rinse and repeat until I get it right. Wow, going to be a pro at this thing by the time I get it complete.

I will be all over the western US and Canada this summer, and I am willing to help anyone do the SADS repair if needed. Message me your location. Price is some dinner and beer, would love to help.

Thanks for the input, I will keep you updated.
There are nine different ways to assemble the shaft. This could be a long experiment.

Too bad you're not coming out east. I am looking at this job soon.

[Zskolb]

I know, 9 different possibilities is a lot of time and energy. I will see tomorrow if there is a place that can balance it. If not, I think it may be easier to just buy a whole new complete shaft. So much for this DIY project saving money.

[timsrv]

I too am not convinced your problem is 100% due to improper orientation (but stranger things have happened). Not to rub it in, but anytime there's multiple ways of assembling something, it's always a good idea to mark things before disassembling..........especially rotating assemblies (just saying). Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Previa%20SADS/IMG_3928_zpsc6pnmt2j.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Previa%20SADS/IMG_3927_zpsbe9jvdao.jpg

[Zskolb]

Thanks for the response Tim.

Believe me, I have learned my lesson marking things next time, good learning experience I am sure I won't forget for the rest of my life.

Went to another driveline shop today, no jig that fits this setup to balance it. The nice guy there cleaned up the contact points with a wire brush, and removed some rust, so that may help a tiny bit in lining things up again. I am going to retry the install tonight. Maybe I screwed up the alignment somehow last time. If it still vibrates again after this install, I think I will lean towards just buying a whole new shaft. Was looking at the ones on ebay for $350-500 bucks. Anyone have experience with those or care pointing me in the right direction, if I end up going the route of whole new shaft?

[timsrv]

If I had that kind of money wrapped up in a balancing machine, I'd at least have an old lathe and an old Bridgeport (or similar). They're easy to find and very reasonably priced. With just those 2 things (or like what pdgizwiz has) you could make and/or adapt any imaginable fixture. Just makes sense to maximize your abilities. Within a few years people would be coming from miles around for those tougher/more challenging jobs. I can see ignoring that side of the business if you're simply too busy, but most drive line shops I've visited the guys are usually sitting around waiting for a customer. To me, being in business is all about being top in your field. If you never turn down a job, before you know it you'll have all the special holders/fixtures and customers are lining up. The mindset of these places have changed tremendously over the past 30 years. I guess that means I'm turning into an old fart....."back in my day.........." :wave1:. Tim

[Zskolb]

Thank you everyone for your input. I got everything ripped apart completely, and then put back together today, and no more vibrations! Such a great feeling!

This time, I took my time. Last time, I was excited to have gotten that far on my own, I got a little carried away and rushed.

There are some possible issues I noticed that may have caused caused the vibrations. I think I put the number 2 drive housing insulator on backwards last time, rotated it 180 degrees to the correct position this time. Also, not sure if the engine side of the shaft went completely back snug where it was supposed to last time, made sure this time though. I also noticed some extra rubber on the metal 12mm sleeves, not showing bare metal, so I scraped it off, and think things may have lined up better from that, not so sure though, as I would guess the rubber would compress with the tightening of the nuts and bolts, but who knows. Also removed the rust from the contact points on the shaft and on the engine and aux. housing area.

Those are just some ideas, it could have also been something else, seeing as though I redid the whole job, so who knows.

Again, much appreciation to you guys for the insights, could not have done it without you.

[zak99b5]

Glad to hear you had success.

[timsrv]

:thmbup:

[Kurtanius21]

Good to hear doing this job isn't hopeless without persistence. I plan to upgrade my 12mm to 14mm in the coming years. I am worried about messing it up, but if I do, it's nice to know try try again is maybe all I'll need.

[pdgizwiz]

Whew! A good feeling indeed!
I guess this is a case of where "the devil's in the details".

[beoutside]

The couplings have finally gone bad and causing vibration on my 93 Previa SADS.... 360,000 miles approx with 80,000 on the low mileage motor shipped from Japan. Any new input on the aftermarket couplings? A1 cardone vis parts geek does a complete for around 400.00
Thanks !!