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rustdogbrown
11-24-2011, 09:44 PM
I recall seeing a thread where someone recommended other parts/gaskets to replace while replacing a head gasket. I have tried searching for this thread here and on TVP and cannot find it. Can someone point me in the right direction? Also, feel free to provide additional input on parts/gaskets that should be replaced. Obviously, I will replace all of the gaskets in the head gasket set that I will get. The radiator and steering pump have been replaced prior to my ownership (and look like it too).

Thanks,

Rusty

djshimon
11-25-2011, 12:58 AM
Get OEM Toyota Head Gasket ONLY! Very important unless you want to do the job again. here's one thread from here about it: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?342-Top-End-Rebuild
and one from TVP about why to use a Toyota Headgasket: http://www.toyotavanpeople.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5896&p=45258#p45258

You probably should do the hose of death and maybe the port that it uses-both very cheap.
Definitely get the head tested and maybe a new head if needed.
here's another link about it:http://www.toyotavanpeople.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8724&p=61799&hilit=head+gasket#p61799

Better do some good research and get a factory service manual or find one online.
I'd search TVP thoroughly. And please share if you feel like it.

timsrv
11-25-2011, 02:50 AM
How much you do will depend on the condition of other parts, how much time you have and how much money you are willing to spend. Considering the age and the high temperatures in our engine compartments, if you want the van to be dependable you will most likely have a fair amount of extra work to do. As you know a series of judgement calls is always part of any major job. Some work will be absolutely necessary but other things can wait. Considering access issues, while you're in there you should probably do many more things............or end up kicking yourself later.

Once you get the head off you should take it into a reputable machine shop. Once there they can check-over/rework anything that's questionable. Also, if you break/strip out any exhaust bolts/bolt holes, they can easily remove and repair/replace while they have it. They should also check for cracks, check the valves, guides, and shave the gasket surface to ensure it's flat. Some shops will want to do everything regardless if it needs it or not, so unless that's okay with you be sure and tell them only to repair and replace as necessary. If you bring it in without the rocker assy, be sure to tell them the valves are of the "non-adjustable" type so they know to remove the very minimum of material when/if they shave it. This is also helpful information for them to know when grinding valves (as they will need to grind some off the valve stems to compensate for the material they remove from the head and valve seal areas).

To simplify your parts purchase, I would recommend purchasing a genuine Toyota Valve grind gasket kit and be sure to hand the machine shop the valve seals from that kit when you drop off the head (otherwise who knows what they'll use).

Of course, this is all assuming you wish to have head work done by a shop. If everything looks fine when you get the head off, and assuming you can see an obvious flaw in the head gasket, then you might take a chance and just simply replace the gasket. Regardless of how far you go, gasket surface clean-up and prep is critical. Take steps to avoid introducing grit or foreign material inside your engine. After you're done scraping the mating surfaces use a strong solvent like lacquer thinner or carb cleaner to wipe these down. Before final assembly it's a good idea to use brake-clean for the final cleaning (as it won't leave any residue). If you decide to "chance it" you should take the time to check a couple of things before proceeding. You can do a poor man's valve seal inspection by turning the head upside down and filling the chambers with carb cleaner or brake clean. If there is a warped valve or one with a bad seal the cleaning liquid will leak out of the chamber. If it leaks a lot then you'll need to take the head in for repairs. If it leaks a little, then you could probably get by with lapping the valves by hand (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldLoR0pUsEw). If you decide to lap by hand you will need a valve spring removal tool. These can be rented at most of the big auto parts stores our you could purchase one for around $50 or so. If you remove the valves, be sure to keep track of where each one goes as you will want to put them back into the original holes. Removing the valves will also allow you to clean them and inspect the valve guides. You will also be able to replace the valve seals (can't be done with the springs installed). You can check the guides by trying to wiggle the valves side to side in the guides. If you find one with excessive side play then the head will need to go in for repairs. Any time a head is off it should also be checked with a straight-edge. Assuming you have one available to you, it should be laid lengthwise on each side then diagonally (both ways) on the gasket surface. Each time it's in position feeler gauges are used to determine if the head is warped. Here's a link to more detailed information on how to check out your cylinder head: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/entry.php?38-4yec-Engine-Rebuild-part-2
Here's a link to other head work you can do yourself: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2041-Blew-the-rear-main-oil-seal!-Engine-Overhaul (see posts #5, 7 & 12)

One final thing to consider is head-bolts. I've always re-used the old head bolts, but I've heard of others having trouble doing so (bolts broke during final torque). Perhaps they over-torqued or just weren't smart enough to know how to even use a torque wrench, but this is a commonly debated subject. Its a subject each mechanic should consider and many choose to purchase all new head bolts. Always lube the threads and contact areas of the head bolts (under the heads) with engine oil and follow correct torque values/tightening sequences outlined in the service manual.

While reassembling the rest of your engine you should pay attention to lots of little details. Most (if not all) rubber parts and hoses (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?342-Top-End-Rebuild&p=2052#post2052) will almost certainly need to be replaced. You might be interested to know that back in the day the flat rate manual called this a 9 hr job......ah, well, not a reliable figure any more. When the van was within 5 years old that was about right, but now in it's old age and hard miles I would plan on 12 hrs minimum. I suspect you will probably be dealing with at least one broken exhaust manifold stud (the one in the very back) and it's likely the exhaust manifold will also be cracked (the back runner). Here's a good thread to help you through these issues: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?5-A-few-tricks-for-removing-broken-exhaust-studs.

Since you will also have good access to your throttle body (intake removed) now would also be a good time to replace/adjust your TPS. It's been my experience that the TPS will rarely make it past 150k miles, so unless you know history I'd consider replacing it routine maintenace: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?212-Adjusting-the-Throttle-Position-Sensor-Video. Other parts I'd highly recommend replacing are the engine thermostat & gasket (Toyota T-stat #90916-03046 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~thermostat~90916-03046.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=4YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4FC;7=VSG;0 =YR29LV-PREA)) Toyota Gasket #16325-63011 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~water~inlet~housing~no~1~16325-63011.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=4YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4FC;7=VSG;0 =YR29LV-PREA))). New water pump belt and a new radiator cap should also be considered must-do items. On these items I don't consider Toyota to have the monopoly on quality. I consider Gates Micro-V belts to exceed Toyota's quality and the Gates radiator cap rivals Toyota (beats the hell out of them for price). Gates part number for the cap is #31333 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=100263&jsn=903). Water pump belt = Gates #25-050323 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4107&jsn=907). FWIW, if you go to Napa and ask for their premium quality belt you will get the Gates Micro-V. Injector connectors will also need to be carefully inspected. These connectors get hard and brittle and are likely to break upon removal. Due to the impossible to reach locations of injectors #3 & #4, if these connectors are not perfect, then replace them BEFORE putting the intake manifold back on. 88 & 89 vans use the "inverted Nippon" style connectors and these are all but impossible to find. Toyota does not sell them and it's likely salvage yard vans will also have brittle connectors. There is however a bright spot here. Several Subaru models from the late 80's to the mid 90's use this exact connector. Due to their placement on the Subaru engine these are almost always in pristine condition. Last time I needed some I went the the Pick-n-Pull and came out with a dozen. The guy at the counter charged me $0.35 each. If you can't save the conductor part of your old connector then be sure to solder and shrink tube the "new" ones onto your harness. This is not a place to take short-cuts (butt connectors simply won't do).

Minimum part purchase required for this job is a Valve Grind Gasket Kit Toyota Part #04112-73031 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~kit~engine~valve~grind~04112-73031.html?vin=&make=Toyota&model=Van&year=1987&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(d=USA;3=V;4=STD;5=MTM;6=5F;7=VSP;0=YR29LV-MRBEA)) (for 4y) or part #04112-73054 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket-kit-engine-v~04112-73054.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=4YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4FC;7=VSG;0 =YR29LV-PREA)) (for 3y). Like Aaron said above, stay away from aftermarket head gaskets! Just in case we weren't clear, I repeat STAY AWAY FROM AFTERMARKET HEAD GASKETS!!! As for hoses and their part numbers, here's a good thread: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?342-Top-End-Rebuild. Also, you may also wish to review the "hose of death" thread before jumping in there: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?213-The-hose-of-death-thread.

FYI: A few common mistakes (below):

Mixing up push rods
Push rods, lifters, and rocker arms are all the same when new, but as they break-in they develop unique wear patterns. Because of this, after break-in they should always stay paired with the parts they were originally mated with. Swapping push rods around or flipping them upside down will make them go through this break-in process again. Depending on how similar the wear patterns may (or may not) be, mixing these up can cause excessive wear and likely lead to premature failure. Typically it's considered acceptable to throw a new part into the mix, but not a previously used one. You can avoid early failure by keeping things in order. A good way to do this is to flip a cardboard box upside down and poke 8 holes in the bottom. Make the holes in a straight line and mark what end is the front. As you take the push-rods out, start on one end and remove them in order. As you remove them poke them right side-up into the holes (in the order they came out).

Installing the rocker arm bar upside down
There is a flat spot ground into the back of the rocker bar. This flat spot needs to be facing down against the head when you put it back on. Failure to do this will result in over-stressing the rear mount area and will also create too much valve lash. The result is increased wear, decreased performance, and noisy valves.

Removing Injectors from the intake manifold
If there wasn't any fuel leaks and if the van was running fine before needing the head gasket, then it's safe to assume the injectors are okay. If this is the case I would avoid pulling them out of the manifold. Removing them will take extra time and will create the need for new o-rings, grommets, and insulators. If on the other hand there was a problem with the way it ran, it might be a good idea to pull them and have them cleaned and tested. Most (if not all) major cities have at least one place that can ultrasonically clean injectors then test them. If you have any doubts about your injectors now is an excellent time to have this done (due to the wrap-around split intake manifold it's a major PITA to do the job afterward). If you're chasing a runability problem, then having this done will allow you to eliminate the injectors as a possible cause. Injector service consists of ultrasonically cleaning, and testing. A good shop will test for flow patterns, flow rates, and check to make sure they shut-off completely when powered down. A modern test machine will print out this information for review after the test is complete.

Leaving old seals and/or debris in injector bores
When reinstalling injectors, a common mistake is to neglect removing all or part of the seals/o-rings from the mounting bores. Make sure the bores are clear of all foreign or old seal material BEFORE installing your injectors. Failure to do so will result in a leak or damage to your fuel rail, injectors, manifold, or a combination of any of these. The parts required for installing injectors will cost around $70. Here are the part numbers and quantities:

90301-07001 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~ring~o~for~fuel~injector~90301-07001.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=4YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4FC;7=VSG;0 =YR29LV-PREA)) QTY: 4 O-ring for between fuel rail and injector
90301-23004 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~ring~o~for~fuel~injector~90301-23004.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=4YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4FC;7=VSG;0 =YR29LV-PREA)) QTY: 4 O-ring for between manifold and injector
23291-73010 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~insulator~injector~vibration~23291-73010.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=4YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4FC;7=VSG;0 =YR29LV-PREA)) QTY: 4 Insulator for manifold side of injector
90480-13005 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~grommet~for~fuel~injector~90480-13005.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=4YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4FC;7=VSG;0 =YR29LV-PREA)) QTY: 4 Grommet for rail side of injector

rustdogbrown
12-05-2011, 07:30 PM
The head gasket job is done and all of the parts are back together. I did replace all of the injector seals-it cost me $95. My head gasket set was made by Ishino/Stone. I am told that this is the manufacturer of the Toyota OEM head gasket. My source was my friends shop (and worldpac). The van starts right up and idles and there no obvious "bad" sounds. My previous 4WD van had a distinct piston slap sound when cold, but this van doesn't even have that. I'll get a feel for the power once I get the seats back in and drive it. All in all is sounds like a 180K mile motor.

There is one interesting tidbit. The machine shop surfaced the head and noted that the condition of the surface (when I brought it in) was too smooth. Anyone ever heard of this? He said that smooth surface could have led to the head gasket failure. When I got it back the surface was rough machined and apparently this is the spec.

Also, I found a rear water outlet for the back of the cylinder head (the one with the 4 bolt flange). It was in nice shape and my original one was corroded.

timsrv
12-06-2011, 01:43 PM
Good luck with those gaskets. Hopefully your friend is right and they are the same. I'm sure there are good aftermarket gaskets out there but IMHO it's simply too big of a risk to take considering the time and cost of doing the job twice. Paying an extra $50 or whatever for genuine Toyota is cheap insurance.

On the injector seals, did you get those from a Dealer of off the internet? Last time I checked the entire set was around $75 from www.ToyotaPartsDeal.com...........but that was a few months ago and everything is going up.

That's an interesting comment about the head being too smooth. I agree that a little texture is a good thing (gives the gasket something to bite into). On the other hand grooves can be bad. If small little grooves could be machined into it in a circular pattern around each cylinder, then I think it would be good (they would act as little road blocks to high pressure exhaust gas). If however these grooves (or some of them) are going outward from the cylinders they could promote failure (of course this would depend on the size and depth of the grooves).

When I do this job (assuming the head doesn't get shaved), I use my die grinder with Scotch Brite surfacing discs on these surfaces. These discs do remove material but it's a very small amount. I like them because they clean, break up any glaze, and they provide a little texture for new gaskets to bond to. I try to work around the cylinders in a circular pattern as to avoid making paths for exhaust gasses. Of course the down side to these discs is the grit they leave behind. Whenever using them one needs to use extreme care to keep these particles out of your engine. Tim

rustdogbrown
12-06-2011, 10:45 PM
I did buy my injector bits from the dealer - it was a Saturday and I was dead set on getting the van back together. Drove it last night around Seattle (up and down hills). It has power, but I did not have the confidence to push it too hard. I think it could use a brake job. Going down hills revealed a stinky front right caliper. I also need tires and would like to eventually find a decent grey interior from another van. My interior is missing some pieces. I also plan on lubing all of the door latch and lock mechanisms.

Rusty

eddieleephd
12-30-2011, 03:55 PM
So I was confused that the plugs for my 88 van are not available and went looking after I read this thread.
What I found is http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=kgfuel here they sell 2 items of interest ND-IC & ND2EV1
ND-IC is an oval plug for DENSO injectors ND2EV1 is a converter from DENSO style to Bosch style.
ONE OF THESE HAS TO WORK!!!!

Tim Which is it?

harness
http://kgparts.com/kgimages/kgparts/Injectorpics/harness/nippon2ev1.jpg

p (http://kgparts.com/kgimages/kgparts/Injectorpics/harness/nippon2ev1.jpg)lug
http://kgparts.com/kgimages/kgparts/Injectorpics/harness/delphi.jpg

timsrv
12-30-2011, 04:35 PM
Neither of those will work on an 88-89 van. The one in your top picture is a Bosch style (used on vans from 84-87). The one in your 2nd picture is a Denso "top slot" style (never used on Vanwagons). 88-89 vans use the "inverted Nippon" AKA "bottom slot" style. I did an extensive search for inverted Nippon/bottom slot style connectors about 2 years ago and nothing was available anywhere (not even aftermarket injector connector people were making them). One place I talked to said they were gearing up to make them but couldn't say when they would be available. Perhaps by now some are available??? If you find them please let us know.

For further clarification of the difference, Here's a picture of the Denso top slot style (available)
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8835.jpg


Here's a picture of the Inverted Nippon/bottom slot style (Currently Unavailable)
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8834.jpg

Other than the guide slots, they are identical. I heard of one guy that ground the "bumps" off his injectors and used the Denso top slot style, but I wasn't brave enough (or perhaps stupid enough) to do that. BTW, I never did check with Subaru, but even if they do have them I doubt they would sell them individually (probably want to sell an entire engine harness). Like I mentioned earlier these are easy to find in salvage yards. Last time I went looking I found several sets in excellent condition (all off of Subarus). Tim

eddieleephd
12-31-2011, 07:59 AM
Thank you for the clarification now I definitely see what you are talking about!!!!
well I will keep looking at times. and definitely will let you know if I find the right plug!!

do you have any idea which Subarus these plugs came on I know you said some of the 80's models

eddieleephd
12-31-2011, 08:24 AM
Found them!!!

http://connectorsfast.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=15

W (http://connectorsfast.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=15)OO HOO!!!

all due to your pics and a little looking this should be great!!
CHEAP TOO!!!

timsrv
12-31-2011, 10:42 AM
That's awesome! It's nice to know new are now available. I like the idea of the "dual slot" connector. It doesn't make much sense to me why Nippondenso would make two different kinds in the 1st place. The only thing that would worry me with aftermarket is not knowing the quality of plastic they use. I'm guessing it's just fine, but would still concern me a bit because of the extra "heat stress" these vans put on things. Tim

PS: There were several different models of Subaru that used this inverted or "lower slot" connector. I think Legacy was one but there are others. Tim

Edit: For future reference, here's the picture from your link (just in case the link goes dead).
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/Densoinjectorconnectors.jpg

User1
06-01-2012, 02:42 AM
Hey guys,

Looks like I'm getting ready to do the HG and head work bit soon. Looking at other things I might need to do as well. I haven't seen very much on the timing belt, or is that timing chain? Looks like these things are pretty indestructible since no one really mentions them right?

User1
06-01-2012, 02:52 AM
The parts required for installing injectors will cost around $70. Here are the part numbers and quantities:

90301-07001 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~ring~o~for~fuel~injector~90301-07001.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=4YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4FC;7=VSG;0 =YR29LV-PREA)) QTY: 4 O-ring for between fuel rail and injector
90301-23004 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~ring~o~for~fuel~injector~90301-23004.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=4YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4FC;7=VSG;0 =YR29LV-PREA)) QTY: 4 O-ring for between manifold and injector
23291-73010 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~insulator~injector~vibration~23291-73010.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=4YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4FC;7=VSG;0 =YR29LV-PREA)) QTY: 4 Insulator for manifold side of injector
90480-13005 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~grommet~for~fuel~injector~90480-13005.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=4YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4FC;7=VSG;0 =YR29LV-PREA)) QTY: 4 Grommet for rail side of injector


Hey Tim,

Are these parts included in the Toyota Valve grind gasket kit? I guess my question would also be, what's in the valve kit?

eddieleephd
06-01-2012, 06:51 AM
Timing chains are highly resilient on most vehicles. here is a thread on some of that stuff.
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?675-Timing-Chain&highlight=Timing+chain

If you have never done the chain and have 150,000+ mi. I would recommend doing the chain.
Better safe than sorry.

timsrv
06-01-2012, 01:02 PM
Injector o-rings are not included in Toyota's valve grind gasket sets (must be purchased separately). If the injectors are not leaking and the vehicle ran good before the head gasket failure, then you have the option of leaving the fuel rail, injectors, and lower manifold together as an assembly (no requirement to disassemble these parts while doing a head gasket).

If however you suspect an injector problem or simply want to be thorough then you may want to disassemble and check things out. Recently I purchased the GB #8-024A injector o-ring kits (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=928484) off of RockAuto.com for $2.08 each (each kit does 1 injector). The kit does not include the big o-ring (Toyota part #90301-23004) that goes between the injector basket & the manifold, but it does have the other 3 parts mentioned.

One curious thing worth mentioning is Toyota's "complete" engine gasket kit (part #04111-73038) does include the big injector basket o-rings, but none of the smaller ones (those can be purchased in the GB kits from RockAuto).

I know in the earlier post I said "avoid removing injectors"........but a little more experience with high mileage vans with ageing injectors has changed my opinion. As of my last job involving injectors I now strongly recommend removing your injectors and having them cleaned/tested by a professional. When it comes to the Portland Oregon area I can't say enough good things about Dr Injector in Gladstone. For $20 each he will clean & test your injectors. He has an amazing collection of specialized equipment specifically for this purpose. The $20 includes initial testing with documented results, cleaning, and retesting. The testing includes spray pattern inspection, flow rates, and internal/external leak tests. When he's done he will install new plastic liners on the tip of the injectors and install new o-rings on them (all included in the $20 fee). You will also get a print-out of your injectors' performance :clap:. FYI, if you bring in one of your injector baskets, he'll match up the size and give you the o-rings for those as well :thmbup:.

Sometimes I'm too busy to drive down there so I'll just put the injectors in a box and mail them to him. When he's done he'll give me a call to get my credit card info & he'll ship them back. His name is Wayne and his contact info is: Doctor Injector 610 E 1st St, Gladstone OR 97027. Cell# 503-513-5070 Shop# 503-786-0700. Tell him Tim from Tim's RV sent you! :wnk:

Here's a flier that gives more info on his service:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/DrInjector.jpg

Here's a couple other related threads:

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?589-Testing-fuel-system-replacing-fuel-pressure-regulator

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?821-Replacing-Fuel-Injector(s)

gushaman
01-10-2013, 04:43 PM
FYI: A few common mistakes (below):

Mixing up push rods
Push rods, lifters, and rocker arms are all the same when new, but as they break-in they develop unique wear patterns. Because of this, after break-in they should always stay paired with the parts they were originally mated with. Swapping push rods around or flipping them upside down will make them go through this break-in process again. Depending on how similar the wear patterns may (or may not) be, mixing these up can cause excessive wear and likely lead to premature failure. Typically it's considered acceptable to throw a new part into the mix, but not a previously used one. You can avoid early failure by keeping things in order. A good way to do this is to flip a cardboard box upside down and poke 8 holes in the bottom. Make the holes in a straight line and mark what end is the front. As you take the push-rods out, start on one end and remove them in order. As you remove them poke them right side-up into the holes (in the order they came out).



I have always kept track of my pushrods in this way, but I was doing it at the shop ( for those who dont know I am a toyota forklift tech at a forklift dealer) and my Toyota Certified Trainer asked why. I told him and he realated that he always did that too, until a few years ago. He said he would bring into a rebuilder all in order in cardboard, and one time the rebuilder asked him why he does that. He explained why, and the guy told him "thats all fine and dandy, but when I toss it all in the cleaner they get mixed up. Hes never had a problem, and said that if the lifters are good they should make up for any differences. Not my two cents, but someone elses. just figured Id add it to a post

timsrv
01-11-2013, 11:06 AM
To each his own I guess. Problems may be rare/random but why take the chance? If they are going in a parts washer they can be numbered with an engraving tool or scratched with a drill bit for identification later. The one below was scratched with a drill bit. I number front to back 1 - 8. The numbers are placed near the top. Location and orientation of number tells me which side goes up. The number tells me what position it gets returned to. This mark will survive a parts wash and/or a hot tank. It only takes a few seconds to mark each push rod. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/86%20LE%20rebuild/IMG_3116_zps1314f057.jpg

Chardog1971
10-23-2016, 08:23 PM
Found them!!!

http://connectorsfast.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=15

W (http://connectorsfast.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=15)OO HOO!!!

all due to your pics and a little looking this should be great!!
CHEAP TOO!!!


as of october 2016 site isnt available, :pissed:

timsrv
10-23-2016, 08:48 PM
Which style are you after? If it's for your 85, then you need the Bosch style, and they are everywhere (hard to think of a place where they're not). 88 - 89 use the "Inverted Nippon" AKA "Denso bottom slot" ("dual slot" will also work). If you need those, just search eBay (using those terms) or go to a salvage yard and snatch them from a 90's Subaru. Tim

spacecruisers
05-21-2017, 04:28 PM
Hey Tim, I've never done any electrical work but while I have the intake off I figured I should replace my injector connectors with these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C81PJK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) (mines an 87 so I guess its the Bosch style) and saw your harness you built - looks like something I should do since Im replacing them anyway. not having to take apart the intake again is a very appealing, lol. I'll recreate what you've done with the weather pack connectors. Could you or somebody thats done this walk me through a little bit? Where do the weatherpack connectors plug in? or do you have to cut up existing wiring?

I'm also thinking my alternator harness may be bad because I'm getting a Christmas dash after trying 2 new alternators, so rebuilding a new harness (which I saw we have a great thread for) is another wiring issue ill have to tackle. I have zero know how on automotive wiring but have done some light soldering modifications with electronics. Any advice would be appreciated so I don't screw up something big time and create even more work for myself :LOL2:

timsrv
05-21-2017, 11:52 PM
If you're good with your hands you'll figure it out. In the quote below (which I'm sure you've seen) I hid links in the text. The tools you need, the connectors, wires, everything. Get a few extra pins and experiment until you're satisfied with the quality of your crimps. After you've completed the new harness you'll need to cut your old one and put matching connectors on the existing harness wires. Before you do that, you'll want to strip off all the old tape/covering so you can trace back and identify the wires. You'll want to be sure to identify and mark before you cut because some of the wires are the same color. If you go back far enough you will likely find some of the injector wires branch from common harness wires. If that happens just leave the old splices and put the Weather Packs on about 2" or 3" after the common splices (just makes your job easier). Tim


One thing that always annoyed me with the van is the requirement to remove the top half of the intake manifold just to connect/disconnect the engine wire harness to the fuel injectors. The last time I did this I cut the injector part of the harness off & built a removable injector harness (it worked great) (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?1011-Exhaust-repair-dilemmas&p=5828#post5828). This makes it possible to completely assemble the engine before installation. I liked it so much I built a removable harness for this one too (old connectors were shot anyhow). I'm using Standard part #S697 Bosch style injector connectors w/wire (http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-S697-Pigtail/dp/B000C81PJK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405766030&sr=8-1&keywords=s697) and 4 PIN SQ 16-14 AWG Weatherpack connectors (https://www.ebay.com/itm/DELPHI-WEATHER-PACK-4-PIN-CONDUCTOR-SQUARE-CONNECTOR-KIT-16-14-GA-TWO-SETS/381228986540?hash=item58c304b0ac:g:~RIAAOxyP4dTdBR 4). I use 16 AWG automotive primary stranded wire (http://www.amazon.com/Pico-81167PT-White-Primary-Package/dp/B0002ZGBAG/ref=sr_1_132?ie=UTF8&qid=1409910860&sr=8-132&keywords=16+AWG+automotive+primary+stranded+wire) to go from the injector connectors to the Weatherpack connectors. I solder & shrink tube (https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Shrinkable-Wire-Wrap-Set-24-piece/dp/B0042YUAR8/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1495430108&sr=8-16&keywords=heat+shrink+tube) the connections to each injector connector wire, then cover the assembled harness with more shrink tubing (https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Dual-Wall-Adhesive-Shrink-Tubing/dp/B01DIRBYEM/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1495429103&sr=8-15&keywords=heat+shrink+tube). Note: Special crimpers (http://www.amazon.com/GM-Delphi-Weatherpack-Crimper-Tool/dp/B005K006QS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405768210&sr=8-1&keywords=weatherpack) are required for the Weatherpack connectors. If you work with these type connectors (also used on GM) I highly recommend having a Delphi Packard Weatherpack Terminal Release Tool (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IIY56E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) in case you need to pull pins back out. Here is the finished harness:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/86%20LE%20rebuild/IMG_3248_zps9957cd3a.jpg

Male connector positions A&B power injector #1 & positions C&D power injector #2. Female connector positions D&C power injector #3 & positions B&A power injector #4.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/86%20LE%20rebuild/IMG_3249_zps1f053fea.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/86%20LE%20rebuild/IMG_3250_zps9fc359ba.jpg

Kauco
05-24-2017, 05:01 PM
I'm stumped just did my head gasket in the van and the engine vibrates pretty bad when idling in park what in the hell would cause this too happen!?!?!?followed all procedures as per the repair manual and replaced all the vacuum lines and what not

timsrv
05-24-2017, 10:25 PM
Check your vacuum lines carefully. The ones that come to mind are the big one for the brake booster and the PCV. Also, check your throttle body intake boot for cracks. Another common thing is the metal tee that comes off the bottom of that intake tube. Make sure that it's up in the throttle body tube and make sure the rubber hoses are attached to it (especially the air valve elbow on the back side). Good luck. Tim

Hammervan
06-20-2017, 07:34 PM
I took my head to a machine shop and they just gave it a shave and a clean bill of health. I'm wondering if it's worth changing the valve seals preemptively since they come with the gasket kit, or just leaving them alone. I'm sure it's easier to do it now with the head out than when it's on the van, but not sure if it's a "if it ain't broke" kind of thing or an easy thing to take care of now to prevent future issues.
I also sent my injectors to Dr. Injector in Gladstone per Tim's recommendation, and it's worth noting that his rates have gone up quite a bit from what people are mentioning here. He initially quoted $35 per injector for reconditioning, and $55 to replace one that had gone bad, which apparently are his retail rates now. He did give me a discount when I mentioned that Tim sent me :). My local shop charges $20 but I figured it was worth it to know that he was familiar with our vans and could get a replacement if necessary.

spacecruisers
06-20-2017, 07:55 PM
I just took my injectors to a guy in salt lake and he did them for $20 each. I assume it's the same guy...master tech auto if I remember. Anyway, he said all my flow rates were low and patterns were bad and was able to clean and get them up to spec, put new o-rings and seals on them. Haven't put them back in yet but I'm happy with the results sheet he gave me!

VanDown
03-06-2019, 01:03 AM
Can anyone shed some light on what these rings are (pic attached)? Six of them came with my Toyota head gasket kit (04112-73035), and I have no idea what they are for :cnfsd:
8604

originalkwyjibo
03-06-2019, 02:41 PM
They are a crush style exhaust flange gasket for between the manifold and header pipe marked as 17410B in the below diagram. I believe different years had different sizes and I think there may be some for the pipe to converter flanges.
https://partsouq.com/catalog/images/wm/toyota/images_eu_b2/MAB339.png

VanDown
03-07-2019, 12:54 PM
Ah excellent, I didn't notice those when I took the exhaust off. Thanks!

MyToy
06-28-2019, 04:22 AM
I have exhausted all my efforts in trying to find a Toyota head gasket #11115-73010 or 73030. Call a bunch of Toyota dealers even and they are pronouncing it EOL, like no more.

So can anyone recommend the next best alternative gasket for our vans? I need one like soon. Want to finish over the holidays

Mt

MyToy
06-28-2019, 05:41 AM
As I such for a head gasket I noticed something that I am sure all of you have. The some passage holes in the block to the head are not in the gasket! Here are some shots of this. I looked at tons of gaskets and they all look the same. I have never seen an original Toyota gasket.
Any comments on this before I use one of these?

VanDown
06-28-2019, 11:40 AM
Have you read this thread in full?

I purchased an OEM Valve Grind Gasket Kit (04112-73035), which includes the head gasket, from sparksparts.com in December for $121. I believe I remember reading somewhere that you can't get just the gasket anywhere anymore, only this kit that includes it.

My new OEM gasket had blocked passages, I believe this is normal.

Note also Tim's strong recommendation against using aftermarket head gaskets.

MyToy
06-28-2019, 01:26 PM
Thanks for the come back, they are gone also. Discontinued. :no:
Looks like I will be going the Flo-Pro route.

MT

timsrv
06-28-2019, 02:28 PM
Are you sure? According to toyotapartsdeal's website these are still available: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket-kit-engine-va~04112-73035.html

MyToy
06-28-2019, 03:00 PM
Yep, I ordered through these guys and all was well until late last night they sent me a cancelation notice that my credit would be credited for the amount in that the part was no longer available. Indefinite time for stocking. Yeah, I was pretty bummed out after I thought I had it. Just for kicks and giggles I just attempted again, only this time I called them before I placed the order. The order date said 7-03-19 but when I talked to them they told me it was back ordered indenfinatly and to check again in a month.

Got any other recommendations? I ordered a Flo Pro in from amazon of which I can return any time if I find a better one.

Thanks Tim

MT

timsrv
06-28-2019, 03:25 PM
Well that sucks. Just for giggles I just ordered one too. Their website says they have it and they took my money. I'll keep you posted as to what happens, but not holding out much hope after what you just posted. Tim

PS: I just ordered from Amazon too (listed as Amazon prime). The listing says 1 - 3 months (wtf?) delivery time, but when I checked out it said free 2-day delivery. We'll see what happens. Tim

VanCo
06-28-2019, 06:26 PM
I'm currently running a turbo with head bolts (not studs). Since I'm running a turbo the likelihood of head gasket failure is high. That being said, I have not had good luck with composite gaskets, aftermarket or Toyota, they don't hold up. I'm currently running a 4y forklift stainless multi layer steel (MLS) gasket off eBay. I currently experience head lift at around 12psi, but the MLS gasket seals right back up. Composite gaskets distort into water passages, and permanently leak from then on. Same if overheated.

Using this gasket is a bit more advanced on the diy scale. You'll notice missing water ports on the gasket that are needed for the van head. I punched these out myself. Also MLS gaskets need a mirror flat surface on the head and block. A machine shop can help with that.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F11 2980402458

MyToy
06-29-2019, 04:08 AM
For sure Tim, I just checked it myself also. Never saw this one but yea, same thing months out. So not for me I have to get this puppy back on the road.

Did you have any thoughts about the covered up passage ways I showed in the head? You must have used an original Toyota head with your history, ever notice this? I am tending to think I should cut them clear.
Any thoughts on that?

mt

MyToy
06-29-2019, 04:09 AM
I'm currently running a turbo with head bolts (not studs). Since I'm running a turbo the likelihood of head gasket failure is high. That being said, I have not had good luck with composite gaskets, aftermarket or Toyota, they don't hold up. I'm currently running a 4y forklift stainless multi layer steel (MLS) gasket off eBay. I currently experience head lift at around 12psi, but the MLS gasket seals right back up. Composite gaskets distort into water passages, and permanently leak from then on. Same if overheated.

Using this gasket is a bit more advanced on the diy scale. You'll notice missing water ports on the gasket that are needed for the van head. I punched these out myself. Also MLS gaskets need a mirror flat surface on the head and block. A machine shop can help with that.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F11 2980402458


Interesting, I will have to follow this one also. So you punched yours out? Hmmmm.

Thanks for the input
mt

VanCo
06-29-2019, 09:33 AM
Interesting, I will have to follow this one also. So you punched yours out? Hmmmm.

Thanks for the input
mt

The smaller and missing holes in the composite gaskets made for the 4yec are supposed to be like that. You don't need to modify them.

The MLS gasket was missing the holes that even the composite gasket had. Not sure why but its missing pretty much every large cooling hole. Must be because it's for a forklift 4y. You can see it in the pic on eBay.

I used a die and press to add the holes. Interestingly enough, the holes I made were still smaller than any composite gasket coolant holes. Even so, the cooling is better and more consistent than I have ever experienced while running a turbo.

If it works for a turbo engine, it should be bomb proof for a naturally aspirated engine.

timsrv
06-29-2019, 12:51 PM
I wonder if it would seal against the factory mill marks on the deck surface of the block??? I'm guessing that would be a bit iffy. Thoughts? I'd probably go this route if I had the engine torn down and at the machine shop (I'd have them make the head and the deck surfaces smooth & shiny). I'm thinking this mod is probably not for the guy doing a head gasket in his garage with the block still installed in the van. Tim

VanCo
06-29-2019, 02:14 PM
The surfaces need to be extremely smooth. I don't think it would seal right on mill marks. There are techniques to get a smooth surface without a machine shop, but a machined surface is best.

With a properly prepped surface and MLS gasket no gasket prep or spray is needed; however, you can use copper spray gasket if the surface is less than perfect, but that is not ideal.

timsrv
07-03-2019, 11:22 PM
The OEM Valve Grind Gasket Kit (04112-73035) I ordered from ToyotaPartsDeal.com arrived today. MyToy, you might want to call them and have somebody double check status on that part number. I have doubts on the one I ordered from Amazon though as when I check my order status it only says "Arriving August 13 - September 24". I also ordered 2 of those MLS gaskets off of eBay and they are on their way. I guess I'm all set for head gaskets for a while now. Tim

MyToy
07-04-2019, 05:35 AM
WHAT!!!!!!

These SOB's:pissed:
I have been on the phone with these idiots all week long with several orders in since I have staged my garage and people to finish this head work this long weekend. Everyone came through except ToyotaDeals. They have no brains.
Now I have the van torn down to the block, other cars out of the garage to allow for extra tables and tools with just a Flo Pro gasket kit and you tell me this??
Oh crap, I really fear putting this Flo Pro in. I guess I will have to eat crow AGAIN and call them on Monday. So I close down the project until I have some lead on a gasket.
Tim, again can tell fill me in on this MLS gasket from eBay in case I fail to come up with one from Toy?
Is it as good as theirs?

What a Joke
Thanks for the heads up Tim.

timsrv
07-04-2019, 07:39 PM
I know nothing about the MLS except what VanCo has said about it (previous posts in this thread). In your case I'm thinking the MLS may not be your best choice due to the special attention required. I on the other hand happen to be planning another rebuild job and will be taking the block and head into the machine shop to have it punched out .050 mm larger/have new pistons fitted & have bronze guides installed in the head. Since all parts will already be there I'll have them deck/polish the block and head so I can use the MLS gasket. I also plan on modifying the MLS to match holes provided in the OE gasket (like VanCo did).

I don't know what to tell you regarding ToyotaPartsDeal.com. Sounds like there's some people there who know how to do their jobs and other's who don't. Guess I got lucky with the people who processed and pulled my order. Good luck. Tim

MyToy
07-05-2019, 05:13 PM
Hey Tim:
It never ends. This is the response I received after trying to order again.

Thank you for ordering parts with us.
We are writing to inform you that order CT950859 has been voided. Your order has been voided because of the following reason(s): The ordered part(s) have been discontinued (no longer available) and/or is backordered with no ETA date by the manufacture.

So now I have to regroup again to finish this motor:no:

timsrv
07-05-2019, 09:26 PM
I want to keep the one I just got......especially now since these may be going the way of the Dodo Bird. But, I want you to have one too, so I just ordered another (and as before they took my money). So let's wait and see. If it shows up I'll sell to you for the same price. Tim

PS: No obligation......if I do get it and you don't want it, I don't have a problem keeping another set around.

MyToy
07-06-2019, 03:42 AM
Tim:

I did not mean to imply to buy any of yours. You need these much more than I do as your business, which always comes first.

But I will tell you one thing. If your able to get one then I know they must have something against Florida.

I will hold off and see what happens. I have other stuff I can do but I also have businesses to run.

Thanks
MT

timsrv
07-06-2019, 11:43 AM
No, you did not imply or suggest anything.........but I did buy from there AFTER you tried and you reported it was unavailable. I would not have tried to order if you had not posted, so I feel like I got the kit intended for you. You also have an immediate need and I do not. If I can help you get one of these I'm happy to do so. I'll keep you posted. Tim

JDM VANMAN
07-07-2019, 01:07 AM
I’ve been reading this thread and today my son who’s a service writer at Volvo called his sister dealership Toyota to find out if the part was available and it looks like there’s five left in the nation. MyToy it’s strange that they keep denying your order, are you purchasing the part as a Guest or do you have an account with them... not sure if that will make the difference?

JDM

Carbonized
07-07-2019, 07:58 AM
But I will tell you one thing. If your able to get one then I know they must have something against Florida.
MT

MyToy,
Have you tried ToyotaPartsOverstock.com, they are part or affiliated with LAKELAND TOYOTA Inc, a major dealership in Florida. If you are from the area you can pay them a visit at 2925 Mall Hill Dr. Lakeland FL. Or give them a call: 863 688 5451. That's the letter head on a receipt for an order at ToyotaPartsOverstock.com
If possible it would be worth going there. I always had a better relationship in person/ face to face, with the Parts people at a stealership than over the phone. They are usually quite knowledgeable and more willing to dig in the database when they are dealing with a face :wnk:
Hope that help, let us know.

timsrv
07-08-2019, 03:28 PM
I just got a notice telling me there is a delay, but they expect to have it at their dealership by July 12th and will ship it at that time:

Hello from ToyotaPartsDeal.com,

Thank you for ordering your part(s) with us.

We would like to inform you that we have ordered the parts (which are listed below) from the Toyota Parts Center to complete your order.

We will ship out the order in its entirety once we have all the parts.

Part No. Description Order
Qty. Status ETA*
04112-73035 GASKET KIT,ENGINE VA 1 On Order** 07/12/2019

*ETA Estimated arrival time to our dealership.
**On order to Toyota Parts Center with an estimated arrival date.

If your order takes longer than the estimated ETA above, we will send you an email and update you on the status of your order. Please contact us if you do not receive an update email.

Thank you for your patience.


Regards,
Customer Service
ToyotaPartsDeal.com

MyToy
07-09-2019, 05:01 AM
OMG!!!!!!
You have to be kidding me................................................ .......Sorry for that delay, I was picking myself up off the floor!

Well, OK. I guess I will make the call to wait a bit longer to complete. I was hoping this weekend but that sounds highly unlikely. Please keep me posted and a million thanks. Can decide on shipping when we know they are in your hands.Sent PM

MT

timsrv
07-09-2019, 06:19 AM
LOL, I just got another email from them saying there was a price increase of $6.52 and if I wanted them "to continue processing the order" I had to pay. I went ahead and paid it and gave them the green light. Although it seems a bit "odd" to ask for more money after the fact, they appear to be working with me. Seems strange they are giving you the brush-off. You must have really pissed somebody off there. :cnfsd:. Tim

Flecker
07-11-2019, 09:54 AM
Just my .02 cents

I have used Fel Pro HG's in the past on several Totyota engines. Probably a dozen 22r/e's, a 3.slow, a couple of 5vzfe's (3.4), a 2rz and even an old 3fe cruiser engine. And to be honest, I think it's every bit of the quality of Toyota HG's. Heck, LC engineering uses the Fel Pro HG's for their production line (they turn out a quality series of engines for many Toyota applications).

I can't speak to the Van experience because I have yet to do a HG job on the 4ye to date... but when I do, I wouldn't hesitate to use the Fel Pro considering what my past experience has been with them. Even the other gaskets I have used from them have been great and sealed up appropriately! The only bad experiences I have had with them are the exhaust manifold gaskets sealing right... that said it was a surface mating issue, and not the gasket really.

I realize a lot of guys on this forum want oem Toyota parts, and I get it... but even the Toyota hg's aren't the same as the og asbestos filled brand. They have changed their composition's also.

In short for a decent composite HG, I would rock the fel pro any day of the week.

Poor experiences have been had with the ITM and Apex brands... I have seen them pop on a couple 22re's in less than 5k! Even with great machined surfaces on the deck and head.

timsrv
07-11-2019, 12:01 PM
I don't disagree with anything you are saying, I just like to stick with what I know. More than anything I really hate doing a job like that twice due to "questionable" or poor quality materials. I have also used Felpro head gaskets in the past for other applications (mostly on pre-historic muscle cars and engines with cast-iron heads) and I always regarded Felpro quality as top notch.

With these things nearing 40 years old and knowing that Toyota OE parts start to dwindle ~ the 20 year mark, it's inevitable that we will eventually be forced to experiment with other brands. I'm sure there are some out there just as good as Toyota, but not sure yet which ones those are. What I do know is Toyota brand is top notch and they spend a lot of money in product research to keep things that way.

When it comes to aftermarket there's going to be good products and there's also going to be bad ones. It all boils down to not knowing which products will work best for us and our particular application. At some point enough of us will have experience with these different brands and be able to collaborate results. Until then, if I can get Toyota, then that's what I'm sticking to........with the exception of the MLS gasket that Vanco recommends. If the block and head are prepared correctly, I believe that type gasket to be superior. Tim

Flecker
07-11-2019, 12:17 PM
I absolutely agree with ya Tim.

When it comes to oem, Toyota typically makes a great product... not sure if you remember though the 3vzfe (v-6 sold in many 88-95 Toyota pickups, 4runners and the early t-100's), but they had a slue of issues with their HG's and failure after 1989 due to having to re-design from the og because of composition type (asbestos) and the huge failure rate that followed.

It's just an example, and a personal experience I had with the Toyota (rare as it may be) quality at the time.

I guess it can be a crap shoot either way, and like any repair or vehicle surgery it all boils down to process and method. Running a really clean repair with inferior parts, or running a not so clean process with superior parts both play a role.

I guess with the rarity of oem Toyota hg's I'm just saying that the next in line for me would be the fel pro. I wouldn't hesitate to put one in and drive it like I stole it. :dance2:

Hope you've been well man!


Edit: and with the VanCo comment--- Yip! If you get the surfces smooth as glass, theres no beating that gasket! Or a full copper for that matter (You won't ever find that for the little vanwagons though, least not that I have seen).

Flecker
07-11-2019, 12:25 PM
Oddly enough, I did get results on Amazon too!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00KTIKHJM/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

77 bucks seems steep though, but hey it's Toyota oem!


Right part number too..

MyToy. Should jump on that man!

timsrv
07-11-2019, 12:46 PM
That Amazon gasket you linked to is only the head gasket (no other seals or gaskets included). I don't think it will come quickly though (if at all) the listing says "Usually ships within 1 to 3 months." It also states "Free delivery: Aug 26 - Oct 7". I ordered one just to see how long it actually takes and will report back when/if it arrives. Tim

Flecker
07-11-2019, 12:49 PM
That Amazon gasket you linked to is only the head gasket (no other seals or gaskets included). I don't think it will come quickly though (if at all) the listing says "Usually ships within 1 to 3 months." It also states "Free delivery: Aug 26 - Oct 7". I ordered one just to see how long it actually takes and will report back when/if it arrives. Tim


LOL, you animal! No wonder all the toy parts are drying up!

:rol:

I was gonna pull the trigger on it too though, so I guess ya beat me to it.

timsrv
07-11-2019, 01:06 PM
Lol, you could still try and get one. BTW, the other gasket kit I had ordered from Amazon (the complete kit) was cancelled. That listing now states
Currently unavailable. We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.

JDM VANMAN
07-11-2019, 04:27 PM
I just ordered 2 of them, there’s 4 left in the nation, according to the Toyota Parts guy my son is dealing with.

JDM

MyToy
07-25-2019, 07:41 AM
Just an update on my head replacement. Moved forward this weekend on re-assembly.
Pretty straight forward except for one issue.

I torqued the head bolts as per spec and sequence. Went ahead and completed installation of intake manifold both top and bottom, all hoses, vac lines and such.
Went back a day later to put on the valve cover and decided to check the torque one more time. Some of the bolts required more to make them click. Now I am concerned that I may have over torqued them if the wrench was out of cal.

I am going out today to purchase a new torque wrench to recheck the numbers.
My question is if I did over torque any of the bolts should I pull them back to the correct value or leave them alone.
Or does it depend how much it may be over torqued.:no:

Any feed back on this would be helpful. I will attempt to try the new one tonight.

timsrv
07-25-2019, 11:47 AM
Having a torque wrench out-of-spec can be a big problem. If you think that may have happened, and you think they are not torqued properly, then I think it would be a good idea to go back and torque again. I would probably loosen them all ~¼ turn, then retorque using the values and sequence in the manual. After they are torqued, go back over them all several more times (in sequence) because tightening other bolts will slightly compress the gasket and cause the torque on some of the previously tightened bolts to relax a bit. When you get to the point where all bolts stop moving you are done. I suppose you could go back the next day to check again, but I never do. Once it's done I never think about it again. Good luck! Tim

MyToy
07-25-2019, 01:07 PM
Thanks Tim:

OK, Did not want to bring them back out and not knowing I could bring them back in.

I will loosen them 1/4 turn and do over.

timsrv
07-26-2019, 03:26 AM
That Amazon gasket you linked to is only the head gasket (no other seals or gaskets included). I don't think it will come quickly though (if at all) the listing says "Usually ships within 1 to 3 months." It also states "Free delivery: Aug 26 - Oct 7". I ordered one just to see how long it actually takes and will report back when/if it arrives. Tim

Update: I just got the following message from Amazon:


Due to a lack of availability, we will not be able to obtain the following item from your order. We've canceled the item and apologize for the inconvenience. If you see a charge for the canceled item, we will refund you within 1-2 business days. If you are still interested in purchasing this item, it may be available from other sellers. Please visit the detail page for this item below.

MyToy
07-26-2019, 05:22 AM
Another Wow!

An FYI

I went out last night and picked up one of those cool digital torque wrench. A bit pricy, but I just cannot afford any more time and I want it right.
So I get home and run out the garage, turn on the lights, open the box and dug in. Certification calibration docs were the first to come out.

Well this thing has on it all kinds of goodies on it including angle. Not sure what I would do with that.
Anyway, I turned it on and set it for 65lb and gave it a whirl.
Well, according to this I was 10 lb too low. And I was concerned I may be pulling too hard! Man, 65lb is nothing to sneeze at. So I think I may be OK just to advance the torque on the rest of these, however the issue is I am limited now with the top portion of the intake already in and get get the wrench in that side. Plus, I am assuming, that all my torque measurements are not right, including the exhaust manifold . Damn, now I will have to remove that portion and do them all over again. If I do, do you think I can re-use the gasket between the top and bottom intake manifolds? I don't have another one.

timsrv
07-26-2019, 11:28 AM
Since these gaskets are new, assuming you didn't use any additional gasket sealer, if you can remove without separating layers and/or tearing them I would re-use. I wouldn't try that on a head gasket, but I would think you could get away with it on the intake and exhaust gaskets. Tim

PS: If you're removing any gaskets that are symmetrical, make sure to orient them exactly the same as before when reinstalling.

MyToy
07-30-2019, 04:48 AM
FYI

Started as if she was never taken apart. Idle was real high but very smooth. Some how the linkage for the accelerator pedal got real long and caused the mix control to but up away from the fuel stop. I looked at it and it was fine. I never touched that part this go around anyway. I had to finally back off on the adjustment screw all the way to the end I it just made the stop. There is no way the cable got longer while it was sitting for 6 weeks.
Except for some idle issues it runs great. Thanks to all of your support.

Couple of questions:
Why is there coolant going through the Mixture control unit? I find this odd.

What does the TPS really do? The .28 calibration must be to bring that pin down when idling, I think.

Anyway, if anyone has any input on this. I am considering building a second brain that will cure all the little bugs. I am just one of those guys that likes things perfect.:lol:

Again, thanks to all

MT

timsrv
07-30-2019, 12:25 PM
Congrats on getting it running! :dance2:


Couple of questions:
Why is there coolant going through the Mixture control unit? I find this odd.

What does the TPS really do? The .28 calibration must be to bring that pin down when idling, I think.

If you're referring to the throttle body as the mixture control unit, coolant is routed through there as to prevent icing and freeze-up issues if/when you're operating the van in a cold climate.

The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) does exactly as the name suggests. It merely monitors the position of the throttle and feeds that info to the ECU. The ECU uses that information to adjust mix and activate the electronic advance. Making that initial adjustment gives it a starting point (so it can accurately tell the ECU where the throttle is at). Tim

MyToy
07-30-2019, 02:23 PM
Excellent:

OK got that covered. One thing though I wanted to mention. After the engine started I kept an eye on the water with the radiator cap removed and still noticed some bubbles. After putting the head on and before the rockers went back I took a 100 lb compressor and ran that into each cylinder one at a time while viewing the radiator cap. I did that for each cylinder. Not one bubbles.
After seeing the bubbles with the engine running raised my eyebrows. So I pulled out my trusty Head tester. This is the unit that you add that blue solution to and stick it in the radiator cap hole. I started the engine, remove a little water so I would not suck it up and performed the test. Squeezed the ball, forced air through the device then let it go and sucked the gases in the water system. Last time I did this it turned a yellow green immedeatly . This time it just stayed blue. I repeated this several times with never seeing any change in the blue which told me there were no bad crap in the air of the cooling system. Big change from before. So the question is why are there still some air bubbles? Water temperature hangs in at 180 +- maybe 10deg. And it is hotter then hell here in Florida. No water in the oil and engine runs like a top.
Any thoughts as to where the air bubbles may be coming from?
Put about 100 miles on her and she runs great. Go figure.

MyToy
07-30-2019, 02:33 PM
OH yeah, here is what it looked like just before I connect the air filter elbow

timsrv
07-30-2019, 04:02 PM
I wouldn't worry about the air bubbles unless you are also having other issues. When the engine runs there are vibrations that will dislodge small bubbles that were trapped in various nooks and crannies inside your water jacket. Tim

Nice job on the engine. I like to keep mine clean like that too. Tim

bushcat
08-07-2019, 01:25 PM
Do people recommend getting the timing chain replaced when doing the head gasket? van has 205k miles, timing chain may be original. If so, is after market ok for this?

timsrv
08-07-2019, 03:14 PM
Because these are "old school" engines without overhead cams, the timing gears/chain does not need to be messed with to replace a head gasket. That being said, 200 k + miles is starting to "get up there" and if I had to do a head gasket on one with this many miles I'd most likely pull the entire engine and do much more (including the timing set). 200 k miles isn't extreme though, so if you decide to chance it, I could also understand that approach. It basically boils down to you, your time, your budget, and your future plans/goals for the van.

If you do replace the timing set, you should read the following post before doing so: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2041-Blew-the-rear-main-oil-seal!-Engine-Overhaul&p=12491#post12491. Good luck. Tim

bushcat
08-09-2019, 12:47 PM
Thanks Tim for the info. I have one question before ordering the valve grind gasket set. I have a 3y and as mentioned earlier in this thread the part number for that is 04112-73054. When searching for my van on toyotapartsdeal I came across 04112-73010 which says it was replaced by 04112-73054. The weird thing is that the part that replaced it 73054 is discontinued yet the original part 73010 is showing as available. Am I ordering the right part for my 3y with 04112-73010? I searched this forum for part number 04112-73054 and found nothing.

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~kit~engine~valve~grind~04112-73010.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1985&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=3YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=MTM;6=5F;7=VSG;0= YR27LV-MREA)

(https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~kit~engine~valve~grind~04112-73010.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Van&Year=1985&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=3YEC;3=V;4=STD;5=MTM;6=5F;7=VSG;0= YR27LV-MREA))

timsrv
08-09-2019, 01:13 PM
Toyota has a habit of changing part numbers. I would trust ToyotaPartsDeal as they are more up to date on these changes. If they say it's for a 3Y, then it should work. The only thing I'd worry about is that you are in the state of California and according to ToyotaPartsDeal this gasket set can cause reproductive harm to CA residents :rol:. Tim

bushcat
08-12-2019, 09:57 AM
Well, crap. Toyotapartsdeal.com voided my order for the gasket set that showed available on the website. Next best gasket kit? Fel pro?

timsrv
08-13-2019, 12:38 PM
That sucks. You could also try the 4y kit. I think everything should work except the plenum gasket and maybe the intake/exhaust gaskets. You might also try to order just the head gasket, then use aftermarket on everything else.

If you do try aftermarket (Felpro or whatever) please take pics and document anything that might help the next guy. Also please record miles so you can report back as to how well it holds up. Good luck. Tim

bushcat
08-13-2019, 03:54 PM
Bought the Fel-Pro gasket set. I took your advice and ordered the OEM head gasket to use. I'll use the fel pro gaskets for everything else and save the Fel-Pro head gasket for later use if necessary. I'm having a mechanic do the work and I'm not sure I can convince him to take pictures but I'll make sure to ask questions and update this post with how everything turned out.

bushcat
08-21-2019, 05:14 PM
It's open!! Sent the injectors to doc injectors out of sacramento. Owner said his son has a toyota van so I think it's in good hands. Replacing all the gaskets besides the head gasket with Fel pro and the head gasket is toyota. Replacing hoses, coolant and vacuum. TPS getting replaced as well as bi valve. Valves are getting tested for leaks and the head is being refurbed. Will update when job is done to let you guys know if it fixed the overheating issue I was having.

By the way, that's my friendly toyota mechanic, also a toyota van owner and not me. I'm too wimp and don't have the space to pull this job off.

9194

timsrv
08-22-2019, 12:41 PM
:thmbup: :dance2:

bushcat
09-08-2019, 09:50 AM
Got the van back yesterday. Drove home, no overheating. Head gasket that was used was Toyota, all other gaskets came from a fel pro kit. Mechanic said nothing about fitment issues with the fel pro gaskets. Van has 203k miles. Will update as I drive. Interesting enough, it seems the Beck Arnely TPS I bought was bad, he said he put the old one back in. Not sure what Rock Auto's return policy is on this sort of thing but I'm going to contact them. Unfortunately the mechanic didn't tell me before giving back the van as I would have ordered a replacement. Overall, happy to get the van back with no overheating issues.

iq_artwork
07-19-2020, 06:24 PM
Hello everyone I hope you are doing good. I need your help please with an issue I have with my van.

I have an ’84 Toyota van for a year and a half. When I bought the van, I had few overheating problems. I found a mechanic and he got them fixed immediately by replacing the thermostat - fun clutch - water bump and rebuilt my radiator and after that the van was running fine. He also ran a test and he told me my engine is fine.

Few months ago I replaced all the coolant hoses and added an extra radiator mod. Then I replaced all my vacuum lines, PCV and Gomment, Cover Gasket, cleaned the Throttle Body, new TPS and the van was running better than my 2016 vehicle.

This week I made an appointment with a shop which I have been twice there, to replace my fuel injectors. When they finished they told me “you may have a bad head gasket, you can still drive but pay attention with your overheats”. Also they recommended me to do a leak down test to check my compression. When I left from the shop and I started driving my van, I felt it way less strong and I noticed a coolant leaking behind the manifold either from HOD or the hose under the manifold.
“I want to mentioned here, the mechanic replaced these two hoses with new ones. I asked him to replace only the one under the manifold and he replaced the HOD as well. Because I was using a radiator tube hose (pic attached in the bottom) instead of a heater hose”. OK, nothing wrong with that. So I noticed the leak stopped after 5 mins while my van was parked. So I though the clamps were not well tight.

The next day I went back to the shop to tell them about the coolant leak issue, hoping they will take care of it. They took the van and they ran the leak down test. They ran only #1 and #2 cylinder. So my first cylinder was fine and my second was low. they never ran #3 and #4.
So they told me you have a bad compression and you need a new head gasket. So there is no sense for us to tight the hoses now bc a pressure will make another leak somewhere else.
My question now is, how true is that? Bc my van was holding the temperature great. The week before, I drove for 2hours and a half with a weather 82F to test my new extra radiator mod and the van performed great, it never pasted the middle point of the temp gauge.


My questions and worries are:

-Can the new fuel injectors cause or increase the problem?
-I was wondering if coolant passing from both gaskets in the manifold?
-I didn’t have any coolant on my oil and the van was running strong before the injectors got replaced.
-Is the van ok to run in 3 cylinders? but in my case I don’t know if my #3 and #4 cylinders are good, bc they never finished the test.
-If they fix the leak and the van holds the temperature, am I ok to drive for 30-50 mins?

What do you suggest me to do, thank you very much for your help!!!

Here my leak down test, sorry it's pixelated: I think they set it up for 100psi and from what I can see in the video I get around 15% leakage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IM7NOX1D_U

Here the Fuel Injectors I used:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Van-LE-2-0L-Bosch-Direct-Replacement-Fuel-Injectors-for-1984-1987-Models/202978914291?epid=1539832817&hash=item2f427c6ff3:g:nSIAAOSwPapa-ONI:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!90045!US!-1

Pic of my old DOH hose (the one he got replaced with a heater hose)
10411

Hammervan
07-20-2020, 10:08 PM
The injectors and leaking coolant hoses should be totally unrelated to a suspected head gasket issue. I would question the mechanic's results. All you know is that there is a pressure leak, but it could be valves or pistons... unless they saw bubbles in the coolant during the test? 15% isn't a catastrophic result. I would suggest getting a chemical test to confirm a blown head gasket. As long as it is not overheating and there isn't a ton of coolant pouring into your cylinders (which would cause noticeable white smoke from your exhaust) you should be able to drive it briefly with a blown head gasket. Just keep an eye on your fluids.

Burntboot
07-21-2020, 09:56 AM
IF I was doing a leak down test I wouldn't stop half way because I found some low numbers.

A proper leak down test means you set THAT cylinder to TDC(firing) (combustion chamber at its smallest) and LOCK the engine in position, then apply a measured amount of air and watch how much leaks out.
All sounds simple enough BUT if the engine isnt quite at TDC or isnt locked into position, false results will follow.

The reason the #2 becomes suspect is that after #1 is down, you disassemble the gear and move on to #2, moving it to TDC and locking the engine.....
Just forgetting to lock the engine can let it rotate backwards enough that a valve cracks open and a "massive fail" ensues
At that point, instead of dropping tools, I go back and make sure I didn't do something stupid and usually find I did.
Even something as simple as the tester not being fully tight (think dirty spark plug threads here) can cause a fail.
(90% of my No 2 cylinder "fails" have been because I forgot to advance the motor to TDC #2, a #2 fail is a BIG red flag for me)

Sounds like they screwed up on the repair or the diagnosis, but something doesn't smell right.

iq_artwork
07-21-2020, 10:52 AM
Hammervan and Burnboot thank you very much for your replies!

Burnboot, I can see the test is not locked down, just noticed that.
From tutorials I have seen online the needle goes from 0 and up. In my test the needle is coming the opposite way.. right?

But yes, there were bubbles coming out of the filler neck.

From my understanding the symptoms can be:

1) OK, I may have a blow head gasket. (But so far, I had never seen a white smoke or coolant in my oil or under the valve cover and the van was running strong).

2) Could be the manifold? Can air coming through if the mechanic installed wrong? (bc when I took it the first time from the mechanic and drove it, the van wasn't that strong like before).

2) Could be a bad coolant bleeding? I may mess up when I was bleeding the coolant system a month ago and the van still has lots of air in the system, hmm?


Thank you very much for all your help!

iq_artwork
07-21-2020, 12:25 PM
Also they replaced one of my manifold gasket bc the old one broke when they removed the manifold.
I'm wondering, is coolant passing through the manifold and from this gasket?

10430

iq_artwork
08-24-2020, 11:31 AM
Hello again,

I took my van back long time ago and drives fine. But I still wanted to do some tests to make sure everything is fine. So I went to another mechanic shop for a head gasket test and they told me I don't have any issues with my head gasket.
I also did the chemical test (Block Tester) and came out fine. Then I decided to do a compression test to see if my engine is fine and I got this numbers (pic below).

Are these number OK?

10524

Hammervan
08-24-2020, 07:30 PM
Those are good numbers, especially for an old van. If you passed the chemical test and have good compression like that, I'd say you can rule out head gasket issues for now.

iq_artwork
08-24-2020, 07:41 PM
Hammervan thanks for your reply!

Yes, I agree! :thmbup: