Water Pump Replacement

[sgtncharge]

Hey Toyota Van Guru's... Y'all ever have to replace a water pump on an 89 van? I think this is my next repair. I was on my way home from work but stopped to fill up with fuel first. When I parked and turned the A/C off, I heard a rumbling noise. Sounded kinda like a desiel engine running. First thing I thought about was the water pump. I looked at the temp gauge and the needle wasn't even halfway to hot. I filled up with fuel and took off hoping to make the 10 mile commute home without any problem. That wasn't the case. I barely got back on the highway when I heard a belt squeaking. Something had seized. I turned the motor off and coasted off the highway to the service road. Lifted up the seat to look and see what was going on. Nothing appeared to be wrong. So, I started it back up and the rumbling went on again for a couple seconds then the squeaking noise as if a belt was trying to move around something that wasn't moving. I turned off the engine and still couldn't see where the problem was. But then, when I got closer, I could see coolant dripping slowly at first then faster to streams of coolant leaking out from the front of the engine. To me this pretty much confirmed it was the water pump. And I'm afraid it was my fault. You see when I first got the van, the very first thing i did was tighten up the belts after I heard squeaking when I tested the A/C. I think I might have tightened them up too much and caused the water pump failure. Anyway, Ol' Casper is sitting in a parking lot waiting for me to come back. I'm fixin to order a pump and will get it in the morning. Things I need to consider and need advice on before I begin removal/replacement are;


Is this a job that can be done in a couple hours on the side of the road?
What other parts need to be removed first?
What other parts need to be replaced?
What else might I want to replace while in the process?
Is it removed from underneath the vehicle or from above?
Will the engine access panel need to be removed?
Will I need any special tools, such as a pully puller?
How much coolant will i need?
And how much beer will I need?

What a bummer this is. Ol' Casper was running so nice too. And the A/C blowing out colder than a witches titty.
So please, all knowing gurus and those that have experienced this before. You think it's the water pump? Tell me what you would do or have done in a situation like this. Keep in mind that its gonna be sunny and 91f degrees tomorrow. I Hope my mother dont find out about this. I can hear her now saying "I told you Steven" ~sigh~

[User1]

Hey sgtncharge,

This does sound like a water pump to me. Maybe there will be others that would chime in too on this. I'm pretty green on working on the vans, but I've just done a water pump replacement on mine too. OK let me try to be of help.



Is this a job that can be done in a couple hours on the side of the road? - Not unless you have to. I've done it once now and could do it in a day and maybe less.
What other parts need to be removed first? - I'd seriously think about replacing the fan clutch. They rate the life of the clutch at 60,000 mile or 5 years. Some clutches are less than that. So it was a no-brainer for me to replace mine.
What other parts need to be replaced? - fan clutch, new coolant, T-stat, belts if needed, radiator cap if needed, hoses if needed
What else might I want to replace while in the process? - see above
Is it removed from underneath the vehicle or from above? - from above
Will the engine access panel need to be removed? - I had mine removed for other stuff but I'm betting yes........pretty sure it's yes
Will I need any special tools, such as a pully puller? - no
How much coolant will i need? - 1 gallon, the coolant system has a 1.9 gallon capacity
And how much beer will I need? - save the beer for after you finish. Mine was a can affair. Mileage may vary.


Take extra time to clean things up. I used the opportunity to take the van to the cleaners and get the engine compartment cleaned up a bit. The parts I ended up replacing was, the T-stat from the Toyota dealers, new pump from Japan, new fan clutch from USA. The last two parts have a lifetime warranty. Once the fan shroud is taken off you'll find you got lots of room to work on the job. Oh make sure you got a good water pump gasket. Not one all mangled up that you're a little leery about it leaking. Your hardest part will be finding the drains for getting the old coolant out. Apparently there's one under the radiator and one at the engine block, behind the alternator. I'm at that point now. You may find a little help if needed at a thread titled;

4X4 auto overheating, looking for input

Good luck and it's very doable.

[sgtncharge]

Sure do appreciate yer assistance. I got the van towed home now so I'll be able to take my time. I have also ordered a new fan clutch and alternator belt to replace. I was reading somewhere that replacing the timing chain is also reccomended but the van was running so good, i dont wanna mess with that. I'm fixin to go out and get dirty now. Oh crap! I forgot the beer. I'll get dirty after I go to the beer store. Oh and the water pump I bought is new. Made by Duralast in Mexico. Has lifetime warranty.

[JRSJ]

I like to use a bit of aviation sealant in conjunction with the supplied gasket for water pumps. Just a light coating on both mating surfaces is all you need.

You can get by without it, but I like to use aviation sealant on any machined pieces that come into contact with coolant. Plus it helps tack the gasket to the engine block when you're fitting the pump. (Don't forget your torque wrench.)

[sgtncharge]

Ok Y'all, I got the new water pump installed and now for the belts. I put all new belts on it. I'm thinking I should change some hoses too. But since I feel like I screwed up on the belt tension once already, I will ask for some advice on how much tension on the belts is too much? This Guide (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152800814cd) I'm looking at on Autozone.com shows to tighten the adjusting screw for the water pump belt to 29 ft. lbs (39Nm) but it doesn't mention the other two belts.

[timsrv]

They actually make a belt tension gauge so you know when it's the correct tightness. I've never actually used one, so I don't know where to get, but if you're really worried you can google it or check eBay. When it comes to the WP belt, that's actually tightened by a wing nut. I just make sure the threads are nice and free, then tighten it until it gets slightly uncomfortable for my fingers to make it much tighter. The other 2 tensioners use a hex bolt & it would be easy to get carried away. If in doubt, leave on the loose side. If it squeals, then it's too loose (tighten it up a little more). Don't let it squeal for too long though as that will glaze the belt and pulley. Tim

[highwind]

Should I hold off and get a Toyota Gasket or just use the Gasket that came with the AISIN Water Pump?

[craftech]

Should I hold off and get a Toyota Gasket or just use the Gasket that came with the AISIN Water Pump?

I used the supplied gasket a few years ago and it hasn't leaked. But I cleaned the area very well.

John

[djshimon]

As far as I'm aware the Aisin brand was OEM for many parts on the Van-Fuel pump, radiator fan clutch, probably the water pump too. It should do just fine. I used a thin layer of Toyota FIPG(Toyota brand RTV) on both surfaces and mine hasn't leaked yet. ~1 year later.

[Mfry]

Does anyone have a step-by-step on how to replace the water pump? I have a 1989 RWD cargo. Thanks very much.

[terrence]

Pretty simple operation, starts on page 4 of the cooling section in the FSM:

http://toyotavans.org/community/tips/manual/007_COOLING_SYSTEM.PDF

[Mfry]

Pretty simple operation, starts on page 4 of the cooling section in the FSM:

http://toyotavans.org/community/tips/manual/007_COOLING_SYSTEM.PDF


Phenomenal!! Thanks very much Terrence. Looks pretty straight forward, although getting to anything in this engine is tough:)

[Mfry]

Pretty simple operation, starts on page 4 of the cooling section in the FSM:

http://toyotavans.org/community/tips/manual/007_COOLING_SYSTEM.PDF

Terrence, quick follow up. I assume that you have to remove the passenger's side access panel and the fan shroud to do this job, right?

[terrence]

Terrence, quick follow up. I assume that you have to remove the passenger's side access panel and the fan shroud to do this job, right?

I honestly don't know. The previous owner of my van neglected to put it back on when they did god knows what to my van so I didn't have one to remove.

[originalkwyjibo]

Terrence, quick follow up. I assume that you have to remove the passenger's side access panel and the fan shroud to do this job, right?
It makes it much easier if you do.

[Mfry]

It makes it much easier if you do.

Gotcha. One more question. Is removing the water pump drive belt an easy matter? Loosen a wingnut????

[originalkwyjibo]

The first couple steps in this thread will help you with that: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?90-Change-your-alternator-ILLUSTRATED (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?90-Change-your-alternator-ILLUSTRATED!&highlight=Fusible+link+thread)!

[Mfry]

The first couple steps in this thread will help you with that: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?90-Change-your-alternator-ILLUSTRATED (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?90-Change-your-alternator-ILLUSTRATED!&highlight=Fusible+link+thread)!

Gotcha, so three bolts with the bottom bolt being a bit tricky, and then the belt slips off. Wow. Feels like I'm going to be putting in some time on this project. Thanks again. I'm now properly armed for the job!

[Mfry]

Hello everyone. I am in the process of removing the water pump and I'm having a really tough time getting the leverage to remove the four nuts that hold the fluid coupling to the pulley seat. The problem is that when you apply force the pulley of course moves! I'm going to either put another 10mm closed end wrench on one of the other nuts or put a long torque wrench on the alternator center bolt to try and create some resistance. I've sprayed some PB Blaster on these things and I'm using an extra long wrench, but they're not going anywhere! Anyone have a recommendation?

[originalkwyjibo]

A flat tip screw driver or small pry bar between one of the other nuts and the fan clutch shaft works well or you can try applying pressure to the belt midway between two pulleys to keep it from slipping. Also, and I'm sure this seems like a "Well duh!", be sure your turning the right direction. I have several years of experience and some times when looking at a bolt or nut from the wrong side and it's giving me trouble loosening I stop and ask myself if that's the right direction. It never hurts to double check yourself.

[Mfry]

You are SO right!! I kept checking myself over and over about "lefty loosey." From the driver's side, with the wrench straight up, I was pushing toward the passenger's side. They are TIIIIGHT! I will try the screwdriver and/or the belt method. I was thinking about wrapping an old leather belt around the housing to try and keep it still, but will try the methods you suggest first. Thanks very much.

[tennesseetoyota]

Hello all,

I recently replaced my van's thermostat and waterpump, and am in the process of re-assembling the van.

After I put on the water pump and attached the adjusting bar, I noticed that there was a hole that I did not have a bolt for, and that I do not remember removing a bolt from. I was wondering if you all could take a look at this and see what you thought it was for, as I am stumped on this.

Here is what I'm looking at:

https://imgur.com/a/oCY98https://imgur.com/a/oCY986434

The hole is on the part where the thermostat housing connects.

Thanks for your help!

[tennesseetoyota]

Looking at the diagrams in the manual, it doesn't seem like there is any apparent reason that hole is there. It doesn't attach to anything in particular in these images:

6435

[Kyle]

Mine's empty too, don't sweat it. (Although i'm just putting my engine back in so who knows, maybe I missed something, haha).

I run into stuff like that a lot, but remember not only were there so many different iterations of this engine that might have used that bore, but also individual parts might have been originally made for completely different engines/vehicles.

[tennesseetoyota]

Mine's empty too, don't sweat it. (Although i'm just putting my engine back in so who knows, maybe I missed something, haha).

I run into stuff like that a lot, but remember not only were there so many different iterations of this engine that might have used that bore, but also individual parts might have been originally made for completely different engines/vehicles.

Good to know mine's not the only one that's empty!

And that makes sense. Mine's an 87, so I suppose they could have made some changes and not gotten rid of that bore.

[Lois85]

Hey there-- Im getting ready to do a water pump replacement of my own.. Thank you for this thread! I have only done minimal things to my 85 van, curious if anyone has a visual of steps for this project, or if its pretty obvious once i start taking things apart. I'll be doing this on the road side outside of my apartment tomorrow. I always take photos of what it looks like before i take a part off so i know what its supposed to look like reassembled.

[timsrv]

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/entry.php?51-4yec-Engine-Rebuild-part-10

[Lois85]

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/entry.php?51-4yec-Engine-Rebuild-part-10

Hi Tim-
Ok so I just got done replacing my water pump. with all high hopes. I am flushing the radiator before I put new antifreeze in, and inspect. Its leaking from the same place. :doh: I have no idea other than that I can see the leak, Its coming from the metal part that then attaches to the radiator hose on the driver side of the radiator. I am such a newb and this is the first and only vehicle I've ever worked on.. so pardon my lack of knowing. The oil is clean, there is no white exhaust, so I'm hoping this might still be a somewhat simple fix... any clues or thoughts??

[timsrv]

There's a rubber seal that fits around the t-stat to seal that hose port, perhaps that's the culprit?

[Lois85]

There's a rubber seal that fits around the t-stat to seal that hose port, perhaps that's the culprit?


It was indeed the rubber seal to the t-stat! ....and then i had to get a new petcock because that started leaking. Im hoping that will take care of that issue...
I've got other issues now... I read the thread where you replace the fuel gauge.. I'm curious. I had never had a problem with the fuel gauge, and on my way home from having my van checked out for a longer road trip, I heard a kind of flapping coming from somewhere underneath and then watched my fuel gauge go from almost full to completely empty... curious if that sounds to you like it just went out finally or if I should check some things out and what I should be looking for. the flapping type noise stopped after i watched the fuel gauge go to empty.
:wave2: oh and then there is the issue that just arose that it seems like she isn't shifting properly now. I checked the transmission fluid and its good. Can all of these things be related in some way or is it all just happening at once? I have an 85 automatic 3y.
Any help would be awesome. I was trying to leave town next week and now Im anxious to know if I can get her goin in time.:cnfsd:

[timsrv]

Those things don't seem related. I know it's a lot all at once, but the van is 33 years old, so it's not all that surprising. The most common failure for the fuel gauge is that rheostat on the sender. it's not uncommon for them to develop a dead spot. If/when that happens the gauge will work fine until it hits that spot, then it will stop working until you fill it up or fuel drops below the bad spot. On my 86, between 1/4 & 1/2 it would read empty. The rest of the time it was accurate. Just a simple "re-arching" of the metal contact that rides on the rheostat corrected it. There are other things, but that's the most common. If you don't have time for it now, just set your trip odometer every time you get gas, then just make sure you keep it under 200 miles between fill-ups.

Not sure about the flapping, but suspect that was coincidental. Could have been some road debris that temporarily got stuck under there? Still not a bad idea to get under there and look for damaged wires or any obvious damage that could have been caused by debris.

Properly cared for automatic transmissions will typically last for ~ 100k - 200k miles. My 86 van is exposed to severe service and that one actually lasted 250k miles..........but that is a bit rare. If your automatic transmission has over 200k miles on it, then it may be time? No way for me or anybody else to know without driving/inspecting. Sometimes shifting issues can be something simple. If you don't know how to tell, find a reputable transmission guy and have him evaluate. If I had that issue i would drop the pan and check for debris inside. If the magnets don't have a bunch of metal particles on them and if you don't see metal or other flaky stuff in the ATF, then that's a good sign. Put new fluid in and see what happens. When my transmission failed on my 86 I did that and was able to get another 10k miles out of it. When the problem came back I swapped it with a transmission out of one of my parts vans (had 160k miles on that one). So far I've put another 20k miles on it and it's still working good.

I know we all want reliable vehicles, but if you're driving something (anything) that's over 30 years old, unless you rework everything, you're going to have issues. Hopefully none serious enough to make you walk :wnk:. Good luck. Tim

Here's a few other threads worth reading (regarding your transmission issue):

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?563-AT-slipping-after-6-months-sitting

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?711-automatic-transmission-delayed-jerky-shifts-throttle-cable-adjustment

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?330-Overdrive-issues

[csimocrespo]

Hello my name is Carlos and I arrived to Canada last month and now I am having problems with my 1984 Toyota van, when I bought it it had overheating problems and it resulted to be just the radiator cap. Then I used it like a month without problems. And the other day driving like 50 km the alternator belt broke, i fixed it on the road and after a strange noise that now is gone there is a coolant leak I don’t know where is it coming from, checked the hoses and look good and so the radiator, I am thinking that might be the water pump. I didn’t find any specific guide of how to do it. May be someone can help me. Thanks!

[weeks5a6]

Hey all, I'm brand new to the forum. I drive a 1988 van wagon, rear wheel, 4cl, automatic, cargo with 126k miles.

First time dealing with a bum water pump. I'm trying to replace it on my own, but having trouble finding a good step by step anywhere online. If anyone can share a link, it would be greatly appreciated.

I've removed fan, shroud, belts out of the way. At this point I'm stuck on removing the fan clutch. I think I'm gonna have to put the fan belt back on and tighten it to keep the pully from turning while I loosen the nuts??

Also, any dos, don'ts, or tips will be most helpful.

glad to join the forum, and THANKY!!

:silvervan:

[Burntboot]

The clutch fan nuts are not (usually) crazy tight unless seized/rusted.
Normally, I would crack them loose before dropping the belts, so putting the belt back on is definitely an option. (also the safest plan)

It may be worth trying to hold the pulley with a thin flat blade screwdriver jammed in between the far side nut and the shaft.
You don't want to go all gorilla on it too much, as you don't want to damage the fan, pump, nuts or hurt yourself
-nothing worse than thinking its all good, then you try to lever it, slip, round the nut, cut the crap out of your hand and possibly stuff a screwdriver thru the rad..... please don't ask how I KNOW that can happen!

Alternate option, if you have good hand grip, you may be able to wrap the belt around just that pulley, hold tight and crack the nuts loose

[weeks5a6]

Alrighty, Thank you!!

[Wrench]

Hey all, my Chilton service manual doesn't seem to have any info related to the water pump replacement. Does anyone here have any relatively detailed or illustrated resources on it? Feeling a little out of my depth :(

[mcmrigby]

Pretty simple operation, starts on page 4 of the cooling section in the FSM:

http://toyotavans.org/community/tips/manual/007_COOLING_SYSTEM.PDF

can somebody link this for me who knows where to find it? Im a noob :dizzy:

[timsrv]

You can download the entire 1987 Van Factory Service Manual for free HERE (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q4u_5zlshRsVDv5v86CiukP7wOD7nKyF/view) . There were lots of changes between 84 and 87, but for things like the water pump it should be sufficient. If I had an 84, I would want a 1984 manual. Chiltons and Haynes are not adequate. You will definitely want a genuine Toyota Factory Service Manual. At any given time there are usually some available on eBay. Price usually ranges from $20 - $100 and it's well worth having (even at the higher price). Here's what they have available now: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=1984+toyota+van+factory+service+manual&_sop=15