Front axle boots disconnected and exposed & CV axle rebuild

[User1]

Front axle boots are disconnected and exposed. I'm taking that's not normal. The story on this 4X4 was the last owner never used it and didn't know anything about it. For example I was out on a test drive and put it in 4X4, it worked, but I didn't have a clue how to get it out of 4X4 and nether did the owner! We had to drive it gingerly back to his place in 4X4. After reading up on the owner's manual I figured out how to take it out of 4x4. Any ways I'm betting that the 4x4 in this is either in good shape or needs very little.

Any idea how to fix the boots right and you think I need to do anything else? Clean them up the best I can? Looks like the boots get twisted back on? I haven't a clue on this.

Driver's side

629

Passenger's side

630

[timsrv]

Having exposed CV joints isn't good. The boots are there to keep the grease in and the dirt out. Yours look like they have been exposed for a long time. If it were mine I'd pull the axles out then disassemble and wash the parts really good in solvent. After that I'd inspect them. If the moving parts inside the joints still look good I'd pack new grease in them and replace the boots. When doing this it's a really good idea to keep all mating parts together. Pay careful attention to the way things were oriented and put them back exactly the same way.

You can get replacement "rebuilt" axles at most auto parts stores on the cheap, but in my experience I'd rather have a high mileage Toyota axle with new boots than one of those. The boot kit for the 4wd van is Toyota #04438-28021 (old number) or 04438-28022 (new number). This kit includes enough boots, grease, and clamps and will do one axle (you'll need 2 kits to do them both). I pulled one of these kits off my shelf so you can see what's inside. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Drive%20Train/IMG_1853.jpg

[Campwagon]

2x on rebuilding the toyota ones yourself, since its the 4x4 front axles, they probably didn't actually run much in that state, the grease should have stuck to the parts keeping em from rusting, but even if not, i would imagine you can clean em up with a wire wheel, then repack, check the "bell" (the big side of the boot clamps there) when ya have em apart, thats what gets messed up and it will have grooves forming inside of it, fun tech note, thats why cv joints pop and click when ya go around a corner when they are bad, its the balls / rollers getting stuck in that grove and then popping out over and over.

[User1]

OK I got these kits today. I agree, the last thing I want is something that doesn't have the longevity of the original parts. I'd much rather clean things up and rebuild it. The parts were $120.24 plus tax for both sides. I won't have it till Monday.

If there's a thread to read up on doing this, please advise. I'll take a look at the factory repair manual and see what it states. They just call these "Boot Kits".

[timsrv]

The job is dirty and a bit time consuming (if you're thorough). It's not a hard job & it's pretty straight forward to remove the front axles. If I was going in for this job I'd probably repack wheel bearings and put the roller bearings inside the steering knuckle (per the service bulletin......link below). Go to 87 factory service manual & start on page FA-62.

Here's a thread that deals with the service bulletin (mentioned above): http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?173-metal-knocking-in-4wd

Here's a thread with just all around good information for somebody about to dive into a job like this: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?574-Wheel-noise

Don't let all the information and parts intimidate you, just get in there and get her done :wnk:. I like the Toyota boot clamps........they go on nice & secure without the need for any special tools. Take some pics and post them for the next guy :thmbup:. Tim

[Campwagon]

it looks like thats the non sliding joint, still easy to do, just a little harder then the inboard joints, also they make a cv tool that looks like a plastic fork sorta that makes it a bit easier to pop the center carrier up to get the balls out.. still really easy, and we are here if ya need any help....

[User1]

Started working on this today. I was thinking the pdf repair manual was going to tell me which grease goes where, but that doesn't happen. Two, I guess different types of grease each came in the boot kit. The pic is below. Looks like one type looks like quality grease (clear tube). The other seems kinda runny (white tube). I'm a bit lost at which goes where, or if it even matters. Which brings the next question. If it doesn't matter which goes where, why even have two types of grease?

BTW, I'm following the 1000 page repair manual in pdf. I'm following directions from FA-62 to FA-68, Adobe pg 548-554. I think even the website "toyavan (http://www.yotavans.org/community/tips/toyo_manual.html)" is using this manual. The steps can be from the link of "Front Axle and Suspension" at Toyavan.

640

I'm basically finished at the tearing it down phase. Still got a little cleaning to do. Then start to rebuild everything. As always, any and all help is greatly appreciated.


Also I got pics on the phases I'm doing. I'll post them after I'm finished with the whole thing. I can reveal one oddity though! The manual tells you to remove the dust deflector, FA-64 step 7, or pg 550. Flip to the next page and they're telling you to put the dust deflector on!!! :roflmao: Wait......... I just took this off!!!

[timsrv]

Yeah, I wish they would state which goes where. Look at the grease from each boot and compare color / consistency. Sometimes the smell of a grease will help determine which type goes were. If all else fails, if the volumes of the tubes are different, put the larger quantity in the larger boot, smaller in the small. Even if you get them mixed up it doesn't matter much. the main thing is to get the dirty grease out and clean grease back in. If memory serves, last time I did this job the grease in both inner and outer was the same, so I only used the grease that was most similar to what was in the boots. One tube was enough to do both. For CV joints I like the runny stuff best. Tim

[User1]

The manual tells you to remove the dust deflector, FA-64 step 7, or pg 550. Flip to the next page and they're telling you to put the dust deflector on!!! :roflmao: Wait......... I just took this off!!!

OK this wasn't really that odd. It just seemed that way. One step tells you to take it off. Only to put it back on the next would seem weird, but that's not what happens. They really neglected the little issue of cleaning everything up!

Looks like the grease that's in the clear tube, which I think is better quality, looks like it goes to the Inboard Joint Tulip. The runnier stuff goes to the Outboard Joint. This I figured out by matching up the color of the greases. Both tubes are pretty much the same size. I need to get some snap ring pliers tomorrow. I managed to get the snap rings off in my redneck way, but I don't have a way to put one on.

[User1]

Anyone has any suggestions on pliers for this?

641

Looks like all the auto parts stores have those pliers where the rings have those little loops to connect to. Such as,

642

There's four rings to install. I plan on contacting the dealers and ask them what I am to do. I even need to buy two of the rings that should have been included in the "kit" I bought.

[timsrv]

This is from page 4 of the 2nd thread I linked you to above:


There are probably other ways to get it on, but I'd highly recommend a special pair of pliers for this. Here's a picture of a nice/expensive pair, but I think you could probably find a cheap pair someplace that would get the job done.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/IMG_1518.jpg

You can do this without jacking and removing the wheel. Just pull the locking hub and get-er-dun :thmbup:. Tim

[micah202]

This is from page 4 of the 2nd thread I linked you to above:


...are you sure this isn't an artifact from the gynecology museum?? :)

[User1]

I never felt this delirious on a job I haven't finished or know if I did it right! I'm feeling like I can quite now and this job will have been done correctly!!!!

I ended up finding the tool I needed to install the snap rings without having to spend the proverbial "arm" or "leg"!!! The tool cost me $20 and was available at NAPA.

643

I got the last one they had. NAPA part number 2534. Looks like it will work just fine. The tip is made like this....

644

The NAPA dude said this is called "Ducky Bill pliers". I told him I was never this happy to give my money to NAPA and I didn't care what you call them! :LOL2:
Something I can actually put in my toolbox without crying about it. LOL Different story with Toyota. 4 gaskets and 2 snap rings and $17 more for the complete "kit"! :pissed:

[User1]

Some pics on the repair I followed in the manual listed below. One thing I didn't do and may be a good idea to do is mark your left and right axles. The manual never mentions to do this. While I'm at it, mark your parts WELL.


I'm following the 1000 page repair manual in pdf. I'm following directions from FA-62 to FA-68, Adobe pg 548-554. I think even the website "toyavan (http://www.yotavans.org/community/tips/toyo_manual.html)" is using this manual. The steps can be from the link of "Front Axle and Suspension" at Toyavan.

First of all my hat goes off to Tim and the other admins here. They do a remarkable job photo documenting the step in a process. I was thinking mine is going to be "killer", but man it's just not that easy!


This part is tricky at getting back together, so take some time and document how it came apart,

647

The removal of the axle is pretty straight forward. Just remember to raise the hub to make taking the axle out easier. Here it's already out.

648

Get yourself the lock ring pliers mentioned above before you start taking things apart. You're going to need it when installing things, so get it before. Here's my Redneck remover that was not going to work for installing.

649

One of the axles ready to be taken apart. REMEMBER, get LOTS of useless rags cause you're going to need them.

650

One of the axles yet from being cleaned.

651

These are two bolts that go on the end of the axles. One on each end. I like to spruce up my lock washers and make them useful for intended purposes.

652

653

This is the dust deflector referenced in post #7 above. It looks weird in the manual cause you are taking it off then putting it back on on the next step. It does make sense after you do it cause you are spending alot of time cleaning up. And do spend the time cleaning up cause it's the best time for it.

654

Everything has been cleaned up and ready to go back together here. The grease in the clear tube goes into the hub assembly here. That's ALL the grease.

655

656

Ready to be put back on to the van. The only thing is I don't have a clue which is drivers side and which is passenger side.

657

Another thing I like doing while things are apart is repairs. These things had cracks in them and were kinda flimsy. It's amazing what hot glue can do! That and quite a bit of cleaning!

658

The pliers in action. The job is pretty much finished here. Like I said, make sure you get the hub cover (first pic) on correctly by documenting it when it came apart.

659

One thing I forgot to mention and that is extra parts that you may have thought it would be in the "Boot kit". You need two more C rings or "snap rings". Two gaskets, one on each side for the cover. I bought the gaskets for the Hub Body, but the original one were on there really good. They were hard to get off and in good shape so I left the original gaskets on the assembly.

I hope this was useful to you and I wish you the best.

[timsrv]

This has got to be one of my least favorite jobs on the van. It's not all that difficult but the grease, grime and filth just never end. Nice job :thmbup:. You hung in there and kicked ass! Thanks for the pictures and documentation. Tim

[User1]

Thanks Tim. I'm hoping I never have to take those axles apart again! :no:

[rowemjr]

One thing I forgot to mention and that is extra parts that you may have thought it would be in the "Boot kit". You need two more C rings or "snap rings". Two gaskets, one on each side for the cover. I bought the gaskets for the Hub Body, but the original one were on there really good. They were hard to get off and in good shape so I left the original gaskets on the assembly.

I hope this was useful to you and I wish you the best.[/QUOTE]


Recently I started to experience alot of vibrations when I accelerate. No vibration when just coasting. I got under the van and noticed the passenger CV axle has alot of play much more than drivers side. Whether this is the source of vibration I'm not sure but seems like it needs replacing anyway so I'll start there.

I already ordered the rebuilt CV axles on Rock auto my question is other than these special pliers is there anything else that I need to be prepared for doing this job. I see mention of snap rings and gaskets. Can I not just reuse what is currently installed?

[Jnovos]

I'm trying to remove the passenger side cv axle. I have everything removed but can't get either ball joint to come lose to swing the hub assembly out of the way enough to pull the axle out. I could be doing this very wrong. If anyone has some advice and wants to help please let me know.

[Burntboot]

IIRC - pull the 4wd hub, remove the axle nut, unbolt axle at diff, hold your nose at just the right angle and you should be able to slide the axle out.

Been a few years since I was last in there, so I don't remember if you need to pull anything else out of your way, about the only thing that may cause issue is the sway bar, but there is certainly no need to split ball joints.
BB
PS. just checked the manual.
Remove 4wd hub, remove snap ring, remove the 6 bolts at the side gear (diff), jack up lower arm, slide axle out.
It really is that simple.

[Jnovos]

Thanks. I'll give it a try today and let you know.

[Jnovos]

Burntboot. Thank you so much for the help. That worked perfectly. New boot is in and axle is back in place. Thanks again!!!

[djshimon]

Hey folks! I noticed my passenger side axle boot is torn and when I went to buy the kit from toyota parts deal it says it doesn't fit for 0443828022 or the previous number. Any chance it's because mine is manual? I figured that part shouldn't matter but thought I'd check with the Oracle first...what say you oh learned ones?

[Flecker]

Hey folks! I noticed my passenger side axle boot is torn and when I went to buy the kit from toyota parts deal it says it doesn't fit for 0443828022 or the previous number. Any chance it's because mine is manual? I figured that part shouldn't matter but thought I'd check with the Oracle first...what say you oh learned ones?



0443828022
is the right boot kit. Says it is for the outers though.... Toyota brand is NOT CHEAP! like most things on these vans.


Here it is on Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/s?ref_=gar_pa_sr&i=automotive&vehicle=1987-76-942-995--49-8-8-4776-1893-9-1-1996-191-4-1&af=%7B%22vehicle%22%3A%221987-76-942-995--49-8-8-4776-1893-9-1-1996-191-4-1%22%7D&k=cv+boot

Also has them listed on Rock Auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van,2.2l+l4,1279784,drivetrain,cv+join t+boot,2284

And Parts geek has the inner/ outer's too : https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1988/toyota/van_wagon/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/cv_boot_kit.html
Should be the SAME boot set for a 86-94 pick up though! Shafts prolly not the same, but boots look like a fit. :dance2:

[djshimon]

Oh thanks Flecker! I have an outer but couldn't find an inner anywhere- but there it is so that's awesome that partsgeek has it.

[djshimon]

Update on the boots. The aftermarket outer boot made by Beck Arnley that was busted fit but the aftermarket inner boot made by Empi from partsgeek did not fit although it arrived in an impressive ~24 hours from when I ordered it.
If I were to do it again I'd probably go with Toyota because I couldn't find an aftermarket inner and Toyota boots(inner and outer) is ~$72 shipped and you know it'll fit. I don't believe anyone makes an aftermarket inner boot that fits the odd shape of our axles(Sorry I didn't take a picture).

[Flecker]

Update on the boots. The aftermarket outer boot made by Beck Arnley that was busted fit but the aftermarket inner boot made by Empi from partsgeek did not fit although it arrived in an impressive ~24 hours from when I ordered it.
If I were to do it again I'd probably go with Toyota because I couldn't find an aftermarket inner and Toyota boots(inner and outer) is ~$72 shipped and you know it'll fit. I don't believe anyone makes an aftermarket inner boot that fits the odd shape of our axles(Sorry I didn't take a picture).


Dang man... I'm sorry about the EMPI boot. Said it was for the inner??? To big? To small?

[djshimon]

Oh that's okay I'm just glad I didn't destroy the inner boot in the process of removal. It's just that it's a really weird shape -one side has three flat edges and 3 rounded edges and the boot attaches to that.-it's a ridiculous shape. Someone must have a picture of it. Or I'll draw it out?

[Flecker]

Oh that's okay I'm just glad I didn't destroy the inner boot in the process of removal. It's just that it's a really weird shape -one side has three flat edges and 3 rounded edges and the boot attaches to that.-it's a ridiculous shape. Someone must have a picture of it. Or I'll draw it out?


It's ok... I was under my Van all evening and got a good look at it. Ha ha...:dance2:


Just sucks that they didn't fit and you ordered them, but I know Parts Geek has an excellent return policy.... was hoping to find a decent, reasonably priced replacement. :bdmd: At least it's one of those items that aren't on the NLA list from Toyota.

[cpginkpt]

my Toyota dealer says he doesn't have any CVs (inner or outer) - based on previous thread comments it seems like PartsGeek Outers will work but not the EMpi inners...
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1988/toyota/van_wagon/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/cv_boot_kit.html

...any intel on an aftermarket Inner CV boot source?

OR - a link to the Toyota OEM part referenced for $72 above so I can help my dealer source it?


'88 4x4 5sp manual hubs

[djshimon]

Did you try this at the dealer- 04438-28022? They say they don't fit anymore on all the toyota websites but I'd bring your vin# and ask the dealer to check.
On Amazon it says it fits our(my sold 1987 van) https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-04438-28022-Joint-Boot-Kit/dp/B00KTHTWR6
At some point might have to try this https://spareto.com/products/kb-084-bellow-set-drive-shaft but I'd try your dealer first.
Pretty important part that needs to be figured out.

[cpginkpt]

ah nice . thanks for the part number -= I sent it along to him so am standing by.

He says if I want their guys to clean/rebuild the existing axels, then I need to bring the new boots and it will be 8 hrs labour at $125.

If I bring him rebuilt axels with boots it will be 5 hrs install.

Either way pretty ugly stuff.

[djshimon]

Is that 125$/hr!!! Say it ain't so. It's actually really quick to remove the axle- took about an hour, being slow. You just remove the wheel, then the hub (6 screws) then one big nut holding the axle in, then a circlip(forget the name).
I think there's 6 bolts holding the inner too. Then pull out axle, outer first then inner.
Rebuild (lots of cleaning is another hour, then reinstall. Maybe 3 hours total by a seasoned mechanic. You should read this whole thread if you haven't already, it's not that bad a job, albeit messy.

[cpginkpt]

yeah - Im right on the fence about doing it myself. No power tools and no garage keep any work like this pretty sporty.

I had read thru the post and agree it seems pretty straightforward tho.

[djshimon]

Probably takes a bit longer (i suppose i exaggerate sometimes) but definitely not 8 hours, that's ridiculous. I did have a friend/mechanic assist but he just agreed with what i was doing.

[djshimon]

The inner axle takes 2 wrenches, one to hold the bolt while the other loosens the nut. I marked everything with a punch for reinstallation.

[djshimon]

Maybe there's an independent Toyota specialist around there who's less expensive? Don't let me talk you into anything you're uncertain about

[cpginkpt]

I'll ask around for an alternate quote. If not reasonable I will tackle it myself using this thread with great detail. Thanks for the assist!

[bikerjosh]

While I haven't done this on my van, I have on a 98 Mitsu Montero. Actually sounds like there are a lot things to remove on a Montero, this is a pretty easy job and not 8hrs. Just take your time and clean out the joint really well before repacking and sealing. If you are having a tough time finding boots that fit, take a measurement of both contact areas axle and flange as well as distance it has to span. You should be able to find a number of boots that will cross over for fitment. If this is your first time working with the metal bands that secure either end I would buy a couple extra just to have on hand, although I have just heavy duty zip ties in a pinch for temporary fitting. GL-Josh

[Ace MM]

650


Where the CV joints attaches (6 bolts) to the diff, can you access the bolt to the stub axle by just removing the 6 bolts?

[The VANdalorian]

After reading through this form I am in search of advice/expertise from the Van geniuses.

I have been told by two mechanics that I trust that my front axle is bad and needs to be replaced. They said that because the boot has been torn for so long, it is past the point of rebuilt with a new boot kit. But, after looking at this form, I feel like USER1 had the exact same issue, with boots long torn in a similar condition, and he rebuilt with success.

My question is, what would make the mechanics say the axle is bad just from looking at it through a torn boot? From what I read, you need to disassemble and inspect all inner parts to be for sure, right? I will attach a few pictures to give you a look at what I am dealing with. I am not at all a mechanically inclined individual, but... because you can no longer find a replacement axle, or even aftermarket manufactured replacements, my only option is to rebuilt, or hopefully find a parts van to pull one off of. I just want to better understand how to judge the condition if it does come to pulling one at the pick in pull. I don't want to end up with another in the same "unrebuildable" condition. lol

Thank you for your help oh wise Toyota van friends!

104671046810469

[Burntboot]

The pictures aren't clear enough to see inside the boot to the actual joint.
Its possible they pulled it back enough to inspect and saw critical damage or maybe they just made the assumption based on how dry/dirty everything is.
When a boot tears, it makes a god-awful mess.

They also have to worry about liability.
-I have been in situations where you explain to the customer all the downsides and yet they insist on trying to economize and when it doesn't work out, they still get upset (even though you warned them, repeatedly) and it causes a lot of bad blood and lost profits and no one ends up being happy.

Doing your own work eliminates that aspect of repairs.
Also helps you to appreciate their perspective, when the attempt doesn't work out.

[The VANdalorian]

Yeah, for sure.

And to clarify, I trust and respect my mechanic 100 percent. He is the one of the most honest people I know and I absolutely believe him. I wanted to ask the community because there are so many people here who specialize in our unique vans, when he is a general mechanic that knows an amazing amount about many vehicles. Maybe there was something the community knew that we didn't. I plan to ask him what he saw and how he made that diagnosis next time I see him, but I was just cruising the threads and came across this one and thought, HEY! mine looks like that, and he fixed it! Maybe I can too! lol

My attempts to locate a replacement have been continually unsuccessful, I was looking for an answer that I knew probably didn't exist

Because I learned a long time ago that I am good at some things and not good at others, and wrenching on cars/motorcycles is one that I am definitely NOT good at, I was just reaching out for any insight, anything that could help me if there was something unique and special about my vans front axle vs other vehicles.

Thanks again for the quick response!

[VanCo]

Shop practices are different than DIY practices, in a lot of ways. In a shop when a CV axle boot is broken and it has been broken a long time (like yours, lacking a greasy mess) it is best to just replace the axle. The joint is more than likely compromised. This is best for safety liability, reducing the chance of a come back, and just all around customer satisfaction. Plus, the shop just tells the customer the cost of the replacement and that's that. If the part is not available and you are at a good shop they will get creative in finding a replacement (used, etc ), or finding a rebuild service.

In the DIY world you have more freedom to ignore those safety liabilities and come back issues. That being said, if it were mine, I would make sure the axle works (turns the tire without making crazy noises) and then I would replace the boot using the proper procedure. Then I would put "CV axle" on my list of needed impossible Van parts to locate.

[The VANdalorian]

I appreciate the input VanCo...And I think you are spot on. I think its time to rebuild what I have, and put the "almost impossible" part to find on the top of the list!

Thanks :thmbup:

[The VANdalorian]

Hey TVT,

I wanted to share a resource I found. Earlier in this thread I posted about replacing vs. rebuilding of my CV axle. It had been torn so long that I was told it needed to be replaced. The problem as you know, you can not buy replacement axles from Toyota any longer, and I couldn't find a re manufactured axle anywhere. So, what to do...search for a parts 4WD van to hopefully harvest an axle in better shape...doesn't come around often, but it seemed like the only option. Then I found CV axle express in Utah. My mechanic removed my axle, I shipped it to them (paid extra insurance because its priceless given there are no replacements, lol) and they disassembled, cleaned, rebuilt, including new tripod bearings, packed, new boots/clamps, and mailed it back. It came back two days later (I live in CA) and it looks and feels good as new! Time will tell for how durable the new parts are, but the total was $250 for my mechanic to remove and re-install, $130 for the rebuild, and $40 shipping, and it was 7 days from removal to reinstall.

Another axle is still on my pick and pull list, from previous thread advice and personal preference, I would prefer a old authentic original Toyota axle vs. new rebuild/re maned axle with aftermarket roller bearings and boots... But to get back on the road and actually be able to lock into 4WD without nail biting fear my axle will explode it pretty awesome! Anyways, you can check them out online, https://cvaxleexpress.com/

Here are pictures after rebuild and the invoice for rebuild... Take it easy Van friends

10861108591086010858

[boogieman]

$250 for r&r on one cv axle? that seems a bit steep...

[The VANdalorian]

An hour off, an hour on, $125 an hour...and worth every penny!

$250 may be steep for someone who is mechanically inclined...but me, trying to take the axle off in my driveway with a hammer and a pipe wrench?? As fast as I can waist a few hundred dollars at Walmart, lol. I'm good with the price. This was a much better use of my funds :yes: