Replacing head - - 1992 2TZ-FE - The Saga of Njordi

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

I have decided to replace my head. Ordered a remanufactured head from Cylinder Heads International for $425 shipping and including postage for returning the core. I am going to use the Samay Method for replacing the head without pulling the engine.

I am pulling together the list of parts I need and I think I have found everything except the water outlet gasket and the EGR inlet gasket. I think this is everything else:

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I would love to hear other parts people found important to replace.

I am not planning to redo the timing chain assembly. Njordi has 170k miles and I just don't think replacing is worth all the extra hassle right now. I am sure some will disagree.

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Specific question, the manual says you only need to replace the head bolts if they are damaged or broken. I assume that means they are not torque to yield, but what are the communities thoughts? Do I need to spend $83 on bolts, or is it fine to reuse. Looking at vehicle history, I am about 98% positive this will be the first time the head comes off.

[man_btc]

Here's what one quite respected member has had to say on the subject,

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?522-Other-parts-to-replace-while-replacing-Head-Gasket&p=3009#post3009

One final thing to consider is head-bolts. I've always re-used the old head bolts, but I've heard of others having trouble doing so (bolts broke during final torque). Perhaps they over-torqued or just weren't smart enough to know how to even use a torque wrench, but this is a commonly debated subject. Its a subject each mechanic should consider and many choose to purchase all new head bolts. Always lube the threads and contact areas of the head bolts (under the heads) with engine oil and follow correct torque values/tightening sequences outlined in the service manual.

And attached at the bottom is Toyota's prolly-you-shouldn't advice from back in the day (Service News - Toyota's Support To Automotive Repair, May/June 2003, Issue 100, p23)

Also, here's my collected notes from when I was trying to figure out what to do (sorry no original sources - was just copying and pasting - FWIW I used new bolts and did the little tighten-and-release bit described below, but more out of an abundance of I-hope-I-don't-f~ck-this-up caution than any strong belief or claimed expertise...

----------------- (my own notes collected from here and there, pardon the repetition from different sources)-----------------------------------------------
New head bolts


Usually breakage with bolts is due to the threads creating resistance, they stop turning. The same can happen with a stud if the nut end threads are not completely free and lubed. Once they stop slipping as they are torqued, you are now twisting the shaft of the piece. I have had a couple of cases of folks breaking brand new bolts, this is the cause of that.

If the shaft of the fastner is actually twisted rather than tightened into the block, it is not creating clamping force at all, even though the torque wrench may read accurate load.

Yep, it can break. So before we even think of going to maximum torque, we clean the threads in the block with a chaser, (NOT a tap)..Then we oil the threads and spin the bolt all the way in and out with our fingers. This assures they are clean and lubed.

Then we pull them to 50%, all of them. ... back off 1/4 turn and repeat, note each time it will turn a tad more before 50% is reached. This is because the threads are bedding in. We do this 5 times, then we go to 75%, then to 100%, all done. We do this with ALL new fastners...it assures a more even clamping force, inconsistant clamping force is the number 2 cause of early head gasket failure..(heat is number one)

It takes some time, sure, but it takes less time than pulling the head back off.

More on bolt torqueing


*Yes, very likely, but torque, which is a twisting force, means almost nothing when we are talking about clamping force.
Dirt or machinery debris in the bolt holes will throw the clamping force off as much as 50% and more, even though the torque wrench reads perfectly normal.
The same happens when installing new bolts. The very best bolts made will show a rough mating surface at the threads when inspected under a microscope.
When installing new or used fastners, first be sure the bolt will spin in and out ALL THE WAY freely with simple finger pressure. Be sure they are lightly oiled, not too much which can hydraulic lock at the bottom of any blind holes and spoil your day.
Use this simple breakin procedure for any new bolts: Tighten all of them to 50%, back off 1/4 turn, then to 75%, back off 1/4 turn. Then take them to 100%, back off 1/4 turn and repeat. Do a retorque after full warmup.
*This procedure simply assures that the imperfections of the threads seat to the bolt hole threads.
Yes, time consuming, but much faster and less costly than another set of gaskets, the actual clamping force will increase vastly, even though the torque load is exactly the same.
The alternative is you may be additional twisting at the top of the bolt after the threads have come to a stop from excess friction.
If any single one does that, head gasket failure prematurely is gauranteed, plus it weakens the bolt


(PS Ran this by the guys at the place where I had my head resurfaced. they didn't think much of it.)

--------------- (A Toyota Service Mag - see page 23) --------------------------------

[man_btc]

As for other parts, depends on what breaks when you look at it. My wiring loom cover would crumble if I so much as grazed it, so was busy fabbing aluminum brackets and wrapping wires in heat-resistant tape and loom cover.

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Very helpful!

My wiring loom is already blasted. I have loom material to replace it. Not original, but I will try to make it look nice.

Fingers crossed I don't break other stuff.

[man_btc]

Fingers crossed I don't break other stuff.

As I recall, the end of my fuel pipe (for me, pn 23801-76020 "Pipe Sub-Assy, Fuel" - that crosses over the top from the driver's side) snapped off when handled. Also broke the stiff-plastic intake air plenum which, like the wire loom covers, lost the semblance of structural integrity as it moved.

Inexperienced as I was, I also decided to replace the valve seals AFTER I had reattached the head, so I got some hands-on with the "rope trick" of stuffing each cylinder through the spark plug hole and even used long tweezers clamped to the valve stems to keep them from falling in whilst I removed and replaced seals and hoped Murphy was taking a sick day.

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For me - unlike all the knowledgeable posters on the Yahoo board I frequented - completely inexperienced and doing the most involved engine work I had ever attempted - I also found it useful to write down EVERYTHING I did step-by-step. I have photos of two huge whiteboards I happened to have at the time including things like "place block of wood between such-and-such," so I had a very detailed trail of breadcrumbs to follow when reassembling (or remembering where I left off after being away). Also used a lot of different-colored tie-wraps to mark mating ends of anything I disconnected. For my '92 one of the most labor-intensive work was clearing carbon out of the EGR passage. Not sure I measured the valve shim clearances while I was in there, although I'd like to think I did - but at any rate I wasn't replacing the head, which I would think makes it a must-do.

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With the engine dropped onto the supports with the mounts removed, it was a super-tight fit sometimes to do anything along the top of the engine of course.

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

New head looks pretty great, but it does not have most of the studs. I reached out to Cylinder Heads International because I was not sure if they were supposed to be supplied or not. I am having a very hard time finding what I need to buy to put in new studs. Does anyone know?

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[Boerderij_Kabouter]

CHI with impressive responsiveness. They said they do not do anything with the studs. So they do not supply new studs, but I am free to remove and resuse my old studs. Initial research says that it should be OK to remove the studs from my old head and reuse them. Would love to hear any opinions about that from the group.

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

I ended up getting a seriously wicked stomach bug this week so I am not getting the head swapped this weekend. But I finally felt good enough today to at least do something. Sheesh, I hate sitting around.

Just got the exhaust manifold off, and... Took a bath in about a half pint of coolant. So, now I would say I have explicitly confirmed an issue, just need to cross the fingers that the head gasket is in fact the issue.

Kind of odd that this did not show up on the test I had run.

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Seriously wicked stomach bug = emergency gallbladder removal surgery. I am laid up with lifting restrictions for 6 weeks. Total downer and all Njordi projects are put on hold. Updates hopefully sometime in July. Bummer

[Previologist]

Yikes! Get well soon. The head gasket can wait, and the suspense will only build

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

I am recovered enough to start slowly doing some fun stuff again. I got the engine lowered. Looking at the engine mounts, they both have some small cracking so I figured they would be a good part to replace. And.... none anywhere. Seems like a crazy part to be completely unavailable. I couldn't even find aftermarket ones that looked decent.

So I am doing a soak for a day in AT-205 Re-seal (https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM) and crossing my fingers. Mine are not in terrible shape and hopefully this will give me some more life out of them before they fall apart.

[man_btc]

engine mounts... a crazy part to be completely unavailable. I couldn't even find aftermarket ones that looked decent.

Don't completely discount salvage parts - car-part.com, etc. as the mounts from a salvage vehicle may have been replaced and newer than you'd figure. I found that to be the case when replacing a rusted-out rear crossmember of a 1998 Camry with one from a (compatible) 2000 Solara. It was in great shape and I don't see how it could have been an original 25-year-old component.

[Previologist]

I see aftermarket mounts on ebay...you could also try megazip.net, they have some but I'm not sure if they're the ones for your van.

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

I can't get my manual write out to post in the message box. But I am uploading a PDF here with a full written out list for how to change the head gasket using Samay's method. Hopefully this will help folks in the future tackle this job with a lot less research time. I uploaded the pdf here, not sure if that is the best and longest lasting way to do it. Open to suggestions.


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[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Head replacement went well. I figure folks always like pictures, so here are a few I snapped along the way.

Engine dropped and ready for the valve cover to come off. There is plenty of room to work. I thought it would be more cramped than it ended up being.
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Once I got the head off, it was still a real mystery if my gasket had blown ... :?:
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A previous owner had clearly loaded this thing up with snake oil to try and fix the blown gasket. It feels like the coolant is still flowing fine, but it does maybe explain why I had such a hard time fully purging all the air out of the coolant system. Some of the holes were fully plugged. I will keep an eye on it I suppose.

The block cleaned up nicely!
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New block next to the old block! I had to transfer over most of the studs, but that was easy enough.
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Always inspect parts! The new head looked amazing, but going over everything with a fine tooth comb is always worth it. Found the exhaust cam timing gear race was blown out!
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I installed the old cam shafts with the old shims, and measured the clearances per the manual. All came out fine, so disaster averted. Took an extra couple hours of screwing around, but ended OK. I called Cylinder Heads International, and they were very nice on the phone. They apologized and let me know if my cams were not satisfactory that they would send a new set. Great to work with and a full recommendation from me to work with them if you need any head services.
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With the cams sorted, I installed the new OEM head gasket.
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Looking all shiny!!!

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The yellow plugs you see are from a plug set I got on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DYDDTMSY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1) for $32. I thought they were great for plugging up holes to keep junk out of various parts. A really nice luxury to have around.

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oy-V_9h1KUA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oy-V_9h1KUA

Feels amazing to have Njordi back to life! I did a 1 minute run to check the start and get the head gasket bedded. I ran this first bit just with distilled water in the coolant loop and the thermostat removed. After the initial run I drained the distilled water out (not a full drain, just the drain plug, the radiator drain and the thermostat housing opened up. I got most of all that out. Then I refilled with Toyota red (5.8L) and started the engine again. This time I let it run and tried to get the coolant bled and fully filled. Always a pain but I got it done. Probably ran the engine for 20 or so minutes, revving it to 3k occasionally. Then I let it cool overnight.

This morning I started it up, charged the AC system, then went for a drive! I got my steering wheel off center, but other than that it seems perfect! Very excited. I hope this procedure beds the head gasket in well and set me up for success. Time will tell.

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Just filled the tank and got 18.9 mpg on the first tank of gas after the recent work. That feels good!

[TSWisla]

Excellent work.