Tips for stuck SADs?

[Bekaykay]

It seems that time of year for everyone that hasn't replaced their SADs to replace their SADs.

The rear bushing fell away willingly but the front is completely fused. What has worked for you to get it free? I have a 95 SC and there does not seem to be any possible clearance to remove the shaft with the bushing still attached to the front side. We've managed to rip the rubber out of half the holes, freeing it from the accessory end, and can't get it loose from the driveshaft end.

What black magic is holding it on and how can I get those last 3 holes free??

[man_btc]

I don't have your model, but I do have some notes I copied from somewhere that I'll paste below. Maybe you didn't remove that "horseshoe"-shaped bracket in the front? I assume you mean the round "coupler" part with the 6 bushings in it when you say "bushing"?

You may also find some other posts on this forum that are helpful if you google-search "toyotavantech.com: sads bushings"

Anyway, here's what I have in my notes about doing the job on a SC model Previa. It's not me, so I can't elaborate on anything:

Pay attention how the bolts, nuts and tabs are positioned before removing, take pictures if you can.
1. Remove the old one.
2. There is a horseshoe shaped part near the front of the shaft that must be removed.
3. Take the bolts out of the front coupling and knock the bushings out with a screwdriver
4. Take the three bolts out the the engine coupling.
5. With torn bushings the shaft should be easy to remove. It has to move down one side of the engine a bit then can be dropped down.
6. The old front coupling can be dropped down next to the crossmember.
7. Install the new coupling on the engine end. put some lube in the hole on the end of the shaft.
8. Slide the new front coupling up where the old one came out
9. Bolt the coupling to the front drive hub. This is a trick, I used hemostats to install the tab and hold the nut. A long 12mm wrench is useful here.
With the new coupling on the engine end place that end beside the engine and lift up the front end and place it against the front coupling. Bolt in to the front coupling.
10. You almost home but the hardest part is left. I used a short crowbar. You have to lever the engine end hub into the pulley do this very carefully, it worked for me and I've read other people who have done it.
11. Install the three bolts to attach the hub to the engine pulley (well, it's not really a pulley).
12. Go back and check all the bolts and tabs. Put the Horseshoe shaped part back on.
13. I didn't mark anything like they recommend. Check your supercharger oil while you're under there.
14. It's not that hard. Doing it like in the book is a lot of work. One other thing is there is a bolt that I couldn't remove in the book procedure.

Also there's this guy -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=br-ccV2OQyw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKd-IfXdenM

Apologies if you've already seen this stuff.

[Bekaykay]

Right. All this works great if the couplers (thank you, I was searching for the correct word) come freely off after we take the bolts off. I've seen other people comment that they frequently don't, and the metal inserts get stuck like they're welded to the shaft. You pull on the coupler and the rubber just flexes. If the rubber is disintegrated enough, it falls apart and I can deal with it outside the car. Not in this case.

We've torn the rubber free on one side of the coupler, but the other side isn't letting go. I gave it penetrating oil last night. Used screw drivers and pry bars every way I can think of, hammered with a small drift on the inside. What else is there?

[man_btc]

Used screw drivers and pry bars every way I can think of, hammered with a small drift on the inside. What else is there?

Having spent hours sometimes attempting dislodge or cut/grind barely-accessible things off a rusty '92, I wish I had a good suggestion beyond just keeping at it. All the related conversations I can remember were about getting a screwdriver or something similar through the bushing, then trying to wiggle or rap it sideways to dislodge it. FWIW, a wood-splitting wedge makes an OK weighted hammer if you've only got a few inches of room to place and swing it into whatever you want hit.

[Bekaykay]

Pretty much just gnaw at it like a squirrel until something works. Got it.

The thing that ended up working was the exact same drift and hammer I'd used yesterday, but with more kroil and a different operator.

Penetrating oil seemed to help a lot, so I'm wondering if I should reassemble them with anti-seize in those recesses.

I'm loving your tagline in the context of this task :LOL2:

[man_btc]

Regarding my signature, years ago while disassembling my middle captain's chairs for some reason, I couldn't get the swivel mechanism to work. I actually whacked at the "stuck" mechanism twice with a sledgehammer, then stood back to reassess as I recalled the many times I've inadvertently made things worse due to impatience, ignorance, or all of the above. Now maybe it had snapped back into position or I had never pushed it, but the swivel release button was not depressed.

Suitably chastened, I internalized the new rule in my signature, and swore I would never reveal my stupidity to anyone until at least May 24th 2025.

[John Kaufmann]

Dan, that little vignette is so precious that I had to bookmark it (in the Previa folder, of course), retitling the thread Dan-the-man-behind-the-curtain. Perfect.