i have the all time sliding door cure for you

[Previa dude]

Hello guys and gals. is your sliding door having issues? Well this is what i did and the results are amazing. first thing you need to do is remove the center roller guide from the door make sure to secure the sliding door or it can fall and mess your whole day up. I suggest a jack stand to support the weight and a rope tide to the door piller to keep it falling sideways. Remove the retainning washers at the top with a pair of wire cutters. Now remove the plastic bushing guides. Now you need four 6x9x4mm bearing and two 5mm c clips. install two bearings on each guide post and cap it with the c clips. Now its ready to go back in. FOLLOW THE TOYOTA MANUAL FOR PROPER INSTALLATION AND ALIGNMENT OF THE SLIDING DOOR.

[Previa dude]

One thing I forgot to mention. Make sure your guide posts are not worn or have any flat spots. Is will not allow the bearings to work correctly. If they are worn try to find one at a junkyard that isn't.

[timsrv]

That's a great idea! Thanks for sharing. Tim

[CMB]

I am going to have to try this as one of the two vans i just picked up is a PIA to close, and it won't stay open if there is any sort of a decline.

[Previa dude]

I am unsure if this will work the way you intend it to work. This is ment as a long term repair that will out last a new Toyota replacement part that cost well over 100 bucks, this is low in cost and highly effective. Tell me, is the center roller sound like it is metal to metal? If so this will cure that problem. If the door is just sliding close on its own then that may mean the door is out of alignment or the roller guide stays are worn out due to the factory plastic bushings being worn and it sliding metal to metal. To check this look at the center and top rail tracks. Towards the back of the track look to see if the stays are worn flat. If they are then replace them, and realign the door. If you buy the parts and do what I did make sure the hight of each bearing is 4mm. Don't buy a signal 8mm bearing for each guide post,they can not support the weight of the door, that is why you need two 4mm bearing to distribute the weight better.

[CMB]

My van door might have more than one problem, but this fix should certainly help. I was just out there and checked the center door bushings and they are shot. They are worn to the point that, like you warned, the posts themselves might be worn. So I guess I will try to locate some previas in local yards.

[Previa dude]

it just found out the roller stop is on the bottom rail track. its a black peace of metal that is bent towards the bottom bearing. look to see if it ingages with that bearing.

[CMB]

Previa dude, I definitely have issues at that lower roller assembly on the door in addition to the center bearings being extremely worn. With regards to that lower door rollers, and stop, my 94 looks to have that bent inward piece of black metal, and ragther than a bearing it looks more like a nylon bushing. Maybe I need to take another look. The white nylon bushing appears to be worn down a bit, hence my door not staying open. I thought to just bend that tab in a bit more, but i am thinking it will hold the door too well and might hang up when closing the door. Is that lower bushing/bearing available from toyota?

Thanks,

Carson

[Previa dude]

only as one peace. and its around $110. 00. I had a little problem like you. i replaced it with a brass bushing. i bent the tap to make it work. ever since i replaced all the plastic bushing with metal bearing and bushings the door rolls like brand new. if the bottom roller is not that bad i would just bend the tap a bit, nothing major just a little at a time to get it to work the way it should.

[timsrv]

I'm going to try this next time around (assuming I can find a door bracket that still has round pins). The fix I put on my bracket with damaged pins has been holding up fine for several years now. For those of you with no money and damaged pins, here's a link to a cheaper solution: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?187-Sliding-door-fix&highlight=Sliding+door

[beoutside]

I know I need to repair mine plus the upper and lower slides are probably shot as well, any tips on those upper and lower for bearing size and/or pics would be appreciated!

[timsrv]

For some reason the uppers & lowers last pretty long. I've had a few Previas & I've only had to replace the center ones so far. Tim

[RangerJoe]

Have you had any luck replacing the bushing posts on the sliding hinge? My posts are worn flat and I have the "pex" fix in that is helping but would like to get new posts and metal bushings to have it rolling again.

If anyone has size and source for replacement posts for this part it would be appreciated.

Cheers

[Previa dude]

BEST THING TO DO IS GO TO PICK AND PULL AND FIND ONE THATS NOT WORN FLAT THEN BUT BEARINGS. IT LAST WAY LONGER AND ROLLS LIKE BUTTER.LOL

[TheMAN]

I replaced my rusty lower bracket with one from the junk yard... both works fine, but the junk yard one wasn't rusty if I were to replace the rollers, do you have part numbers for those bearings? that will help immensely rather than trying to figure out what I need based on size :)

[GreenLantern]

Yeah, curious minds want to know where you sourced the bearings and c-clips so we will know that it works! Appreciate the writeup :dance2:

[Previa dude]

Just went to my local hardware store. I bleive it is yankee hardware

[romanjohn]

Hello guys and gals. is your sliding door having issues? Well this is what i did and the results are amazing. first thing you need to do is remove the center roller guide from the door make sure to secure the sliding door or it can fall and mess your whole day up. I suggest a jack stand to support the weight and a rope tide to the door piller to keep it falling sideways. Remove the retainning washers at the top with a pair of wire cutters. Now remove the plastic bushing guides. Now you need four 6x9x4mm bearing and two 5mm c clips. install two bearings on each guide post and cap it with the c clips. Now its ready to go back in. FOLLOW THE TOYOTA MANUAL FOR PROPER INSTALLATION AND ALIGNMENT OF THE SLIDING DOOR.

I've been looking for those 6x9x4mm bearings and can't find them at any of the stores I've been to. Are they ball bearings? Do you happen to remember the brand?
Thanks for any suggestions.

[Previa dude]

I got the at a bearing shop. Where they have all types of bearing of different shapes and sizes. You need to measure the inside of the trake, especially if the slide went metal to metal. Tim's way is also a good way to get it to roll again. I used his trick on me friends van and still work to this day.

[romanjohn]

I got the at a bearing shop. Where they have all types of bearing of different shapes and sizes. You need to measure the inside of the trake, especially if the slide went metal to metal. Tim's way is also a good way to get it to roll again. I used his trick on me friends van and still work to this day.

I don't have the van yet. It's in Colorado at my brother's house, and I'm in Wisconsin. I know that it has the same problem with the door, and I turned a nylon standoff to 3/8" od and 1/4" id, but would eventually like to make it more permanent in the fashion that you did.
Thanks for the quick response.

[GreenLantern]

I got the at a bearing shop. Where they have all types of bearing of different shapes and sizes. You need to measure the inside of the trake, especially if the slide went metal to metal. Tim's way is also a good way to get it to roll again. I used his trick on me friends van and still work to this day.


Which bearing shop in Sacramento? I am not too far (in San Francisco) and would like to buy the exact ones you bought. Thanks!

[beoutside]

I rebuilt top-one then was thinking metal on metal is not a good idea ... rolling or not so ordered the whole set delivered from village toyota out of florida.... no tax free ship arrived in a few days 240.00

Also with mine the bottom roller was completely flat on one side and the guide roller would not stay in track... middle both pins shot, top roller plastic worn off.... thats why I replaced all... like new :)




I don't have the van yet. It's in Colorado at my brother's house, and I'm in Wisconsin. I know that it has the same problem with the door, and I turned a nylon standoff to 3/8" od and 1/4" id, but would eventually like to make it more permanent in the fashion that you did.
Thanks for the quick response.

[Jonny]

I know what you mean about metal on metal - preferable to have the roller wear out than the body - but I did this mod today anyway. A couple of slight differences to note...

i) instead of the doubled-up bearings the OP used, I used single needle bearings. The weight of the door is taken by the larger central roller in the first picture in this thread, and the two side rollers that wear out are just being guided by the track, so I'm giving it a shot. Part designation HK0608 - the size is 6 x 10 x 8 (id x od x height) so they are the same height as the two stacked 4mm bearings, hopefully will spread the load adequately, and they seem to work great. The clip I got to hold the bearing on the post was too big in diameter so I didn't use it. I could look in there and see the bearing working nicely as I moved the door, and it does not look like there's much chance of it coming off the post because the track is so restricted. Anyway I will report status as time passes.

ii) Consider taking the entire sliding door off. It's fairly straightforward if you've got the manual to follow (mainly to get the interior stuff off) and is arguably less hassle than making sure you don't accidentally damage the door when it is partially disassembled and partially attached. I've done it both ways now (once to replace the roller with plastic and once now with this needle bearing) and I'll always take the door off in the future. When servicing the rollers with the door removed, if you can get the keeper washers off while the whole roller bracket is still attached - do it if you can - you won't have to dicker with adjusting the door once you're done, which can be darned fiddly and irritating. Lifting the door off is no problem, even for a 135 lb weakling - bottom roller comes out first, move door forward a bit, top roller comes out, then slide the door out backward. When installing, once the rear/center roller is in, the door is significantly supported and two pieces of pre-attached tape on the door and the body helps with easily locating the upper roller.

Edit: It is a one man job if the upper and lower brackets are left in place. The only bit of the roller assemblies you need to remove is the spring on the bottom bracket which acts both as the bottom roller-keeper and door-open holder. There are gaps in the upper and lower track which allow both these rollers to come out when they are matched up (see ii above). Also, I may have been mistaken when I said the interior door panel needs to be removed - it was off when I did the work, but maybe it doesn't need to be. Even easier if this is the case.

[cb97alltrac]

Thanks, i just did this with the single needle bearing, size described above, and works great. I also did not use the old or a new top clip, don't think it's needed. I just slide the whole door off backwards after unbolting the top and bottom roller assemblies, 2 10 mm on the top and 3 12mms in the bottom. Just have to unpop the bottom edge of the inside door liner to get to 1 of the bottom 12 mms bolts. There does appear to be an escape defect from the top Trac i discovered afterward though, so didn't have to unbolt the top roller assembly i guess. Slides and closes like new now, although does have a pop sound when it's opened since it fits tighter now. Door is heavy so a helper is need.

[Jonny]

I just did this mod on a 93 Previa I recently bought, using the HK0608 bearings, so I took some pics.

It is best to take the door off to do this mod - much less work in the end. Two people is useful for removal, but not necessary. If you do it by yourself get ready for the weight of the door - it must be pushing 100 lbs. If you choose to do it yourself the only bit which would really benefit from a helper is engaging the center roller upon install, although that can also be done alone after a few tries.

To remove the door...

Pop off the center track rear keeper, straight out, two clips. Clear the track by removing the white clip by pushing it forward. When putting this clip back on at the end, make sure you seat it hard until you hear it snap over its little mounting boss, or the cover will not go back on.

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Remove the spring keeper at the back of the lower track. One bolt.

10530


Now for the heavy lifting.
Locate the upper track notch which is towards the back of the track here...

10531


i) align the lower roller with where the spring keeper was and pull the door out of the lower track. The weight of the door is still supported.

ii) move the track forward a few inches to align the upper notch and pull out the door. You will now feel half the full weight of the door since the center bearing is still engaged.

iii) take the full weight of the door and slide it out the back. The center rollers sometimes catch on something at the back of the track. If it doesn't come out with a bit of jiggling you can slide the door forward and rest the lower roller on the step to take a breather.

The center bearing is usually the culprit. Looks like someone was here before doing some butchery on the rearward pin.
Take a dremel to the keeper washers and cut a slot, then they easily pop off.
Put on the HK0608 needle bearings. Gravity and the confines of the track hold them on - there is no need to figure out a retaining method.

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10534


Inspect the upper rollers.
The upper roller has an o ring around the nylon roller. The nylon roller was a little beat up and the o ring ready to snap, although the bearings themselves rotated nicely. The o ring is 16mm ID x 1.5mm CS (or 16/19 if you prefer). I replaced mine with a 16mm x 2mm (after taking a razor blade to the slot and beveling the edges for a better fit), because I happened to have one that size - the track is plenty wide enough to accommodate the slightly larger OD.

10535


Inspect the lower rollers - usually OK

10532


!! Clean all the tracks with solvent, especially the upper n-shaped part of the tracks - there are lumps of dirty dried up grease in there. !!
Regrease very sparingly.

Hyperventilate a little then put the door back on, employing a helper if you can to get the center roller aligned.
Enjoy your nice smooth, quiet door.

[Jonny]

This is a popular thread and the following post, though not as "all time" as the roller fix, saves a bunch of aggravation simply dealing with that inside door handle. I have a few pet peeves, and this is one of them. Anyway, never again will I have to consult the manual for the required knowledge and fiddle buck around with a shop rag trying to find that hidden spring clip and the perfect angle of pull just to get the handle off. An added bonus is that it is achieved with baling wire which, along with duct tape and a big hammer, is a mechanic's best friend.

10744

10745

10746

[Previologist]

Got my door off easily using Jonny's method, which is also in the Haynes manual. Didn't even try to look it up in the FSM. I definitely need new something on the center bracket, so I picked up some nylon spacers to play with for now. The upper bracket is the only one that looks fine.

The upper roller/bushing whatever you want to call it on the lower bracket is also broken with a chunk missing that I found in my driveway a couple weeks ago. I haven't see where people have replaced that part, or how. I might be able to get the whole bracket off my parts van, if its any good.

[Previologist]

Here's my lower rollers...definitely not OK. Haven't decided what to do with it yet

13378

[Jonny]

This bearing is the one which bumps from side to side inside the track, right? (Like the center bearings.) Not the weight bearing one? Maybe you can source another needle bearing with similar dimensions and just slip it over the post.

[Previologist]

Yep, that's the one. The weight bearing one is fine. All the bearing shops are closed on weekends and I have to drive 30 miles to get to them so it may be a few days before I can source bearings. I kind of mangled the nylon spacer I was attempting to shape for the center bearings, but they are cheap so I can try again. Might even be able to use some 1" pex on that lower one (and I have some of that) but I haven't measure yet

[Previologist]

I put in some tubing for the center and lower rollers and patted myself on the back for such an easy job, well done. Then I tried to put the door back in and struggled for several minutes breaking a heavy sweat but did finally get it in and got a possible strained muscle for my trouble. Nothing serious though. There is a bit of friction as the door rounds the curve in the track just before it closes, but I'm guessing it will improve as the pex wears a bit. Its not quite like new but its way better than it was before, considering it wasn't even closing half the time.

[Previologist]

I got the door working perfectly now, it just needed a little clean and lube on the curve of the center track. Sweet! I'm kind of excited to see if this might eliminate my hitherto unsolved problem of catching exhaust fumes in the cab now and then. Probably not, but I can hope.

A couple more hints and tips as I sit here nursing a sore latissimus dorsi. First, don't injure your latissimus dorsi. The issue arose when I tried to install the door, and the forward center bearing/plastic engaged with the track, but because of the spring action on the center bracket, the hind bearing did not. So I had to struggle back and forth a few times, resting the lower bracked on the ledge (as Jonny suggests) and finally taking the door out again. It was about 100% humidity so I was sweating profusely by now. With more awareness the 2nd time, I kept my left hand right next to the center bracket and was able to guide the 2nd bearing into the track. Pressing on the center bracket area will also help keep the spring from foiling you.

I don't think the door is that heavy but it is unwieldy. I meant to weight i, but forgot, but I think its only about 70, maybe 75 lbs. For people who definitely don't want to take it out by themselves though, the center bearings CAN be done without removing the door, as this horrible video shows. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANKF9_CMFuE

But taking the door out looks much easier, and I will take the door out again if I ever need to do this job again. Once again, this great forum helped make a job that seemed formidable rather simple and easy.

[Previologist]

Just to be clear, this is what I did with the lower roller. Its potable water PEX, smaller than 1", the OD is about 22 mm ID about 17mm...


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Don't ask me about the bent track, because I don't know. There's a much worse bend further forward but neither seem to have any effect on the door.

[Previologist]

it just found out the roller stop is on the bottom rail track. its a black peace of metal that is bent towards the bottom bearing. look to see if it ingages with that bearing.



Took me a bit to understand what Previa Dude was talking about but once I looked at my lower track it was obvious he's referring to the "spring" piece that you have to unbolt to remove the door. I'm only discovering this because my door doesn't always stay open since I "fixed" it. The OEM part I replaced with orange Pex is just large enough to engage with that bend in the "spring" to stay open, but moves past it easily with a little forward force. My pex is ever so slightly smaller, so it doesn't catch quite as well. Should be an easy fix I can either bend that piece in a little or more likely I will try to add something to it to make a little bump on the back side to catch the pex. Maybe a smooth dab of JB Weld or even just a few winds of tape. I'll probably have more ideas before I actually do anything about it.