new van owner needs help.

[alaskanherbs]

Hi,
I am new toyota vans and the forum. I have searched and read lots of posts but I still cant figure out my problem.
I have a 1988 4WD automatic. It didnt run when i bought it.
It will start and run for about 5 -10 and then cut out.
While its running, if I give it gas, (a little or a lot) it will cut out.

any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.

cheers,
Jared

[timsrv]

Check trouble codes 1st. Here's how: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?196-Engine-Service-Connector

[alaskanherbs]

Hello,
thanks for the response. I have tried to see if there are any codes and I didnt come up with any.
The check engine light does not come on all.
If I keep the key turned to the start position it will stay running but when the key goes back to the run position it will cut out 5 -10 seconds later.

thanks,

jared

[timsrv]

Does the CEL (Check Engine Light) come on when the engine is off & the key in the "run" position? If not then it's likely the bulb is burned out or has been removed. If your van runs with the key in "start" position but not in "run", then that sounds like a problem with the Air Flow Meter. The AFM has a switch inside (Fuel Pump Switch) that becomes engaged when there's adequate airflow to sustain an idle. This switch supplies ground to the coil insdie the "circuit opening relay" which in turn powers the fuel pump. If this switch goes bad the van will start but will not continue to run when the key is released (the "start" mode of the ignition switch temporarily bypasses the fuel pump switch). For more troubleshooting info read THIS THREAD (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?631-dead-van&highlight=fuel+pump+relay). Here's a schematic that may help.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/fuelpumpcircuit.jpg

You can easily test this by putting a jumper wire in the "Fuel Pump Test Connector". This effectively bypasses the Fuel Pump Switch inside the AFM. If the van runs with the switch bypassed then your AFM most likely needs to be replaced. For safety reasons don't permanently bypass the Fuel Pump Test Connector..........If you have a bad AFM, then replace the AFM. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/13IMG_9014.jpg

PS: Before replacing the AFM, make sure it's harness connection is tight and inspect the conductors inside for damage and/or corrosion.

[alaskanherbs]

Tim,thanks again. I will try that tonight.cheers,

[alaskanherbs]

Well,
that seemed to be the culprit.
New mass air flow meter on order.
I will post results when I get it installed.
Thanks again,
Jared

[timsrv]

No problem, let us know how it goes when you get it replaced. Tim

[alaskanherbs]

Hi, well I got the new mass air flow sensor in and it runs, until it gets up to temp then it cuts out again. Is there a crank position sensor and if so, where does it hide?
thanks,
Jared

[timsrv]

There is no crank position sensor on these vans. Your next mission should be to get the CEL working and check for codes. Report back with findings. Tim

[alaskanherbs]

Had a little break in the weather this weekend and got some tinkering time on the van.
adjusted the idle and that seems to have helped.
I pulled the dash to check the check engine light, and wa-lah, no light. so i swapped one out and was able to pull code, i got a 22 and a 51.

I know that my water temp sensor is not hooked up, (code 22) but I dont know about switch, (code 51). The a/c was off, I will check the TPS but I dont know what the idle switch is. can anybody point me to it please?

oh, i almost forgot. the hose of death, mine has been monkeyed with and cut off so close to the engine block that the rubber hose clamp cant get enough bite to make a decent seal. does anybody know what that piece is called and if replacements are available? It looks as if the previous owner was cutting an access hole and cut the metal tube by accident.


cheers,
Jared

[llamavan]

oh, i almost forgot. the hose of death, mine has been monkeyed with and cut off so close to the engine block that the rubber hose clamp cant get enough bite to make a decent seal. does anybody know what that piece is called and if replacements are available? It looks as if the previous owner was cutting an access hole and cut the metal tube by accident.

That plate comes in two varieties — 4WD automatic and everything else. The "everything else" plate was still available from Toyota a couple of years ago, but the 4WD auto version has been discontinued for awhile now. Your options are limited to salvaging one from a junkyard van or having a new one machined.

Gwen

[timsrv]

Yeah, it sucks to have this part fail on an automatic 4wd. Trestlehed (member here) has dealt with this issue and had a nice write-up over on TVP. I found a link but it looks like his photos are gone now: http://www.toyotavanpeople.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7379&p=62898. Here's a thread that deals with the TPS: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?447-Throttle-Position-Sensor-TPS-Canada. I have a video posted in that thread that explains how to adjust the TPS. FWIW, almost every van I've worked on with over 150k miles had a bad TPS. Anymore I just replace them whenever I get a TPS code. Tim

[trestlehed]

Hola Tim & Gwen,

Here are pics of my machined water outflow plate/hose of death plate:
800

One pic inserted, and one as an attachment. Not sure what I did wrong there.

Alaskanherbs: Basically you will have to remove the old outlet plate and take it to a machine shop. If I remember correctly
they charged me $100. The other option is to yank one off of a junkyard van. Problem is they are so old it might be corroded
and full of pin-holes like mine was.

Tim: Update on the "van from hell". I'm still waiting for my mechanic buddy to recover from a shoulder injury and a knee replacement surgery. He says he might be "released" by his Doc Jan. 1st. Keeping my fingers crossed. When it happens he will do a head gasket job, replace the electric fan relays with the new manually programmable ones, water pump, O2 sensor and some other misc stuff. Gotta get the front shocks replaced with the other Ram/whatever shocks to get away from dangerous front-end bounce. Maybe think about exhaust manifold leak as well. Injectors? Does it ever end?:dizzy:

Happy Turkey day to all!

[alaskanherbs]

update.

I did a temporary fix for the hose of death, thanks to some JB Weld. No leaks so far.
I found that there was no coolant temp sensor, pulled one from a junk yard and that seemed to the key to all my problems... most of them anyway.

So I was able do drive it today for the first time and noticed that the temp gauge doesn't move. I've searched the forum but didn't see anything directly relating to the temp gauge. Can someone direct me to a link or cause of the temp gauge not working please.

Oh, another thing I noticed was that my power steering reservoir seemed to "boil/spill" over after a bit of idling but not when I drove it. any thoughts?

cheers,
Jared

[trestlehed]

Oh, another thing I noticed was that my power steering reservoir seemed to "boil/spill" over after a bit of idling but not when I drove it. any thoughts?

Do you mean your coolant reservoir is boiling/spilling over?
If so you might have a blown head gasket. Mine is doing the same thing.
I haven't had my head gasket officially diagnosed yet. But I'm guessing that's the issue.

[alaskanherbs]

Hi trestlehed,
nope, it's the power steering.
Sounds pretty weird, I know.
cheers,

[alaskanherbs]

update.

my junkyard temp sensor broke so i picked one up from napa and now the temp gauge is working. go figure.
the fuel gauge and oil pressure gauge are not working, but i haven't look into why yet.
i got the new TPS on last night, messed with the idle speed again. it seemed to be running better last night but we'll see what happens today.
the power steering squeals like a banshee and the reservoir "boils/spills" over once in a while, just while sitting at idle...

cheers,
jared

[timsrv]

If it's a belt squeal then that's an indication the belt is loose or shot. If it's a cavitation noise that's an indication of a plugged up screen in the reservoir (might also explain the overflowing). Here's a thread where that is discussed: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?214-Power-steering-system-noise . If you haven't already, you should also check the fluid level to verify the reservoir isn't over serviced. Tim

[alaskanherbs]

Thank Tim,
I just found that link and I will check on that tonight. I will double check the fluid level too.
cheers,

[alaskanherbs]

Well I haven't had time to work on the power steering issue yet, but I will get to that later. Right now I am trying to put the vacuum lines in order. (They were a mess from the previous owner/mechanic) I've searched and found some info but not everything I need. Can someone post some pics showing the some clear vacuum line routes.
thanks,
Jared

[timsrv]

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/vacuumdiagram.jpg

[alaskanherbs]

Hey Tim,I am running out of patience on my van.I was wondering if you do work on other peoples vans and what you would charge if you do?Any chance you could come out to Astoria and help me get my van running?Cheers,Jared

[timsrv]

Lol, I'm happy to help with the forum but other than that my time is very limited. Perhaps somebody else here is in your area. Good luck. Tim

[Don Kihote]

Does the CEL (Check Engine Light) come on when the engine is off & the key in the "run" position? If not then it's likely the bulb is burned out or has been removed. If your van runs with the key in "start" position but not in "run", then that sounds like a problem with the Air Flow Meter. The AFM has a switch inside (Fuel Pump Switch) that becomes engaged when there's adequate airflow to sustain an idle. This switch supplies ground to the coil insdie the "circuit opening relay" which in turn powers the fuel pump. If this switch goes bad the van will start but will not continue to run when the key is released (the "start" mode of the ignition switch temporarily bypasses the fuel pump switch). For more troubleshooting info read THIS THREAD (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?631-dead-van&highlight=fuel+pump+relay). Here's a schematic that may help.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/fuelpumpcircuit.jpg

You can easily test this by putting a jumper wire in the "Fuel Pump Test Connector". This effectively bypasses the Fuel Pump Switch inside the AFM. If the van runs with the switch bypassed then your AFM most likely needs to be replaced. For safety reasons don't permanently bypass the Fuel Pump Test Connector..........If you have a bad AFM, then replace the AFM. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/13IMG_9014.jpg

PS: Before replacing the AFM, make sure it's harness connection is tight and inspect the conductors inside for damage and/or corrosion.


:wall: Dear Tim uncle, is MAF inside the Air Flow Meter? For replacing MAF, have I open the Air Flow Meter, there is fixed with alot of glue?!

[timsrv]

Sorry, I was improperly interchanging the term MAF with AFM (my bad). Terminology is important so I just went back and edited my post to prevent future confusion. Technically our vans don't have Mass Air Flow sensors (MAF), we have an Air Flow Meters (AFM). The fuel pump switch is inside the AFM and is not repairable or replaceable. If the switch fails then the entire AFM needs to be replaced. Tim