• Cleaning the Throttle Body

    The throttle body is a pretty simple component but after years of service the internal passages can become clogged/dirty & the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) begins to fail. For these reasons I recommend cleaning the throttle body and replacing the TPS on any van with 150k or more miles. Here's my method of disassembling, cleaning, and adjustment.

    This is a throttle body I pulled from a parts van. It will take a couple days soaking in Chem-Dip, so I can drive my van while this is being worked on, then I can swap it out with the one on my daily driver when it's ready.



    Chem-Dip is a pretty harsh cleaning chemical. So harsh that it will eat rubber & plastic parts. Before soaking the throttle body in this it must be disassembled. Toyota didn't intend for these throttle bodies to be easily disassembled, but I have worked out a way to get the job done. The 1st challenge is the screws holding the butterfly to the throttle shaft. After installation Toyota crushed the threaded ends of these screws against the side of the shaft. To make matters worse, they used an unusual screw size (M3.5 X 0.6). So unless you plan on drilling & re-tapping the throttle shaft (to accept a more common screw size), you will need to save & re-use these.



    Use a Dremel with a metal cutting fiberglass/abrasive wheel to carefully grind the crushed portion of the screws off. Don't stop until they are flush with the shaft. It will save you time later to also make an identifying scratch in the butterfly so you can orient it the same way when it's time to go back together.



    While you have your Dremel out grind some slots to allow removal of the idle adjust screw cover.



    Now it's time to remove the TPS........just two screws and it pulls straight off the shaft.



    Next remove the nut, the cable guide, throttle return spring, and other associated parts from the throttle shaft. Take a picture or make notes so you can put this back the same way later.



    Now the 3.5mm screws can be removed from the shaft & the butterfly can be removed. Note: These screws are a bit "soft" so be sure to use a high quality #2 Phillips screwdriver bit & make sure the tip is in good condition. Bear down hard on the screws when you rotate. You will only get one shot at this & these screw heads strip out easy. Sometimes the crushed threads extend up in the shaft area a bit so occasionally these screws are hard to remove. Remember when I said "you'll only get one shot at this"?...........well I might have lied just a little . That was to get your attention so you'd try your best! . Sometimes even when you do everything right the heads still strip . When this happens use your Dremel to make the Phillips heads into slot tips. Remember, you will still want to re-use these & this is your last shot..........unless you drill and tap for new screws........so be careful and do a good job. After the screws are out remove the butterfly.



    Now the throttle shaft can be removed.



    Take a slot tip screwdriver and gently pry out the throttle shaft seals.



    These typically pop right out.



    When it comes to your idle adjust screw, get a slot tip screwdriver and while counting revolutions, turn it clock-wise until it bottoms out. Record the number of turns for future reference and then remove it. Sometimes the rubber o-ring will make it difficult to remove. If you have one, an expanding tip slot tip screw driver works well for extracting the idle screw. If you don't have that then it can be "blown out" by using compressed air through the exit port. If you use the compressed air method cup your hand under the screw so you don't lose it. Once removed, carefully remove the rubber o-ring from the idle screw and save for later. The other parts on the throttle body are pretty self explanatory. If you don't already have some, go to your local parts store and get yourself a gallon of Chem-Dip. Remember this stuff is nasty so read the directions and avoid skin contact. Load all the metal parts into the basket (included inside the gallon container) and lower into the can. Put the cover back on the can and forget about it for a couple of days. Hint: Chem-Dip will eat almost anything, but it will work better if you remove excess dirt before dipping. Also, I recommend scraping/cleaning all old gasket material prior to soaking. Soaking won't always remove gasket material so it's better to get it off before hand. Another thing to consider is how long you may want to keep/use your Chem-dip. The more junk it eats-up the less effective it becomes. The can I'm using now is one I've had for over 10 years. It's getting weak, but it still does the job.



    Okay, so a couple days have passed, now it's time to get back to it. Use a pair of pliers or a wire hanger to hook the basket and pull out of the Chem-Dip. Have another container of an appropriate size ready to set the basket in. I use Mineral spirits to dilute and remove the residual Chem dip. After the parts are covered with mineral spirits I agitate the basket to rinse. Now parts can be removed one at a time and a parts cleaning brush is used, then compressed air to blow dry.......Be sure to use eye protection!



    Could these be the same parts I had before? Okay, the TPS is new, but everything else is original!



    The old shaft seals will usually push right in with just thumb pressure. I'm using a synthetic lubricant with PTFE to lubricate the throttle shaft seals & bores.



    After installing the throttle shaft & aligning the butterfly, I clean the burrs off the shaft screws threads & apply some semi-permanent Lock-Tite.



    Screws are installed but left loose. Before final tightening allow butterfly to self center by closing throttle all the way & then tapping on it & the shaft. The periphery of the butterfly is precision machined at an angle to match the inside of the throttle body, so Make sure it's oriented correctly! Without the throttle stop assembled, while closed it should make an air-tight seal. Hold it up to the light to verify it's centered & intimate with the throttle body bore. Once you're satisfied tighten the screws.



    O-ring is installed on idle screw and lube applied.



    Idle screw is installed & bottomed out. Next we back it out the number of turns previously recorded.



    Throttle shaft built up with return spring, cable guide & associated parts. Nut is installed and tightened.



    New throttle position sensor is installed & other misc pieces of throttle body are put back like before.



    And here's the end result .



    Now that the throttle body is reassembled the only thing left to do is adjust the TPS & install it on your van. Here is a video on how to do this (click on the image below to view video).



    Before you install check the condition of the throttle body coolant hoses. If soft or deteriorated now is a good time to replace. I suppose a bulk 5/16" or 8mm hose could be used here, but the bends are rather tight and you may end up with a crimped hose. Last time I needed these they were still available through Toyota. They are part #16267-73010 & 16264-73021. You'll also want a new throttle body gasket & that one is Toyota part ##22271-73011 & sells for ~$5. Tim
    This article was originally published in forum thread: The Throttle Body Thread started by timsrv View original post
    Comments 150 Comments
    1. timsrv's Avatar
      timsrv -
      Hi Zman and welcome to TVT! I talked about this a little on post #3 of this thread. IMO there's very little downside (if any) to removing the dash pot. I never really understood why it was necessary in the 1st place, but was told it was to somehow reduce emissions. I can't imagine it making a big difference, but who knows. If yours is good, then leave it, but if it's sticking and causing the idle to be erratic, then that's a drive-ability issue. To me, a drive-ability issue trumps an emission issues (at least one this minuscule). If you're not sure if it's bad, then remove it and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn't then put it back on. Tim
    1. originalkwyjibo's Avatar
      originalkwyjibo -
      The purpose of the dashpot is to keep the throttle from snapping shut when you shove in the clutch and suddenly back off the throttle. When the throttle is suddenly released and the engine de-cels rapidly, unburned fuel is dumped out the exhaust. By slowing the speed at which the throttle closes it mixes more air with the fuel and gives it a chance to burn more completely. It's not necessary on an automatic because the torque converter has the same effect. But ya, if it ain't working right, ditch it.
    1. whatvan's Avatar
      whatvan -
      Are coolant hoses 16267-73010 and 16264-73021 still available? I’m striking out with those.
    1. JPERL's Avatar
      JPERL -
      Quote Originally Posted by whatvan View Post
      Are coolant hoses 16267-73010 and 16264-73021 still available? I’m striking out with those.

      no longer available I just confirmed
    1. whatvan's Avatar
      whatvan -
      link to McMaster-Carr M3.5 X 0.6 screws. Sold in qty of 100.

      https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~inch/thread-size~m3-5/length~16millimeters/
    1. whatvan's Avatar
      whatvan -
      Attachment 10234Attachment 10235

      i have a spare throttle body i was cleaning up as practice for cleaning the TB currently attached to my van.

      While disassembling this TB, the plastic spacer for the springs (Circled in red) disintegrated.

      when i get to the point in picture 2, will all that come off as one, or will the springs need to be unattached first? I attempted to disengage the springs from the piece that hits the throttle stop screw and thats when things fell apart.

      is this piece replaceable (part number?)? Or, if this happens round 2 am i screwed? Anybody with a TB thats NFG got a spacer to donate/sell?

      other than that, everything went swimmingly and metal parts are currently soaking in chem dip.
    1. iq_artwork's Avatar
      iq_artwork -
      Hello everyone and Happy 4th!!

      I got this TB from an automatic '86 van. I cleaned it and built a gasket. For the gasket is this what I need or do I need to make the other caps i have marked with red here?
      My van is '84 manual, is it the same TB for auto and manual vans?

      Thank you!

      Attachment 10365
      Attachment 10366
      Attachment 10367




    1. JDM VANMAN's Avatar
      JDM VANMAN -
      Take a look at the 1st and 3rd posting on page 1 of this thread-

      1st posting- auto TB
      3rd posting - manual TB with Dashpot

      If I’m understating correctly the 5 speed vans have a dashpot on the TB, I’m not sure if that means they are not interchangeable.

      Whats the part number on your TB?

      JDM
    1. Diy2k's Avatar
      Diy2k -
      Guess who has high P/N idle after rebuild!

      *me*
    1. iq_artwork's Avatar
      iq_artwork -
      JDM thank you very much for your quick reply.
      I think I'm not going to risk it, I will stay with my TB I have in my van now. I just have to take it and clean it. I though it will be faster for me to have an extra TB and work on it while I can drive the van too.

      The number of the TB I took from the junk yard is 730 32.

      Do you think the gasket is right?
    1. JDM VANMAN's Avatar
      JDM VANMAN -
      I know the gasket is impossible to find (NLA) and some members have either made a gasket or used a gasket maker, sorry I don’t remember what it’s called. There’s a couple of different TB part numbers imprinted on various years TB’s, looks like the one Tim is rebuilding looks like 730-39. I’ve sold a couple of them but can find the posts, I think they were cleaned up during forum house keeping as old closed posts.

      JDM
    1. timsrv's Avatar
      timsrv -
      Although the TB gasket (Toyota part #22271-73011) is NLA through Toyota, these will occasionally come up on eBay and other sites as NOS "New Old Stock" (I just checked eBay but nothing is currently available). Compete Aftermarket gasket sets are still available and some will include this gasket: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...asket&_sacat=0 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...Desc=0&_sop=15. If you need to make one, Here's a picture of what it should look like and how the holes line up:
    1. Diy2k's Avatar
      Diy2k -
      Can’t see the image
    1. iq_artwork's Avatar
      iq_artwork -
      Tim thank you very much!! What's the best material for that?

      I have seen youtube tutorial using this material:
      https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-77-...3994873&sr=8-3

      and some auto shops selling these ones: (Tank fiber material)
      Attachment 10380
    1. timsrv's Avatar
      timsrv -
      Quote Originally Posted by Diy2k View Post
      Can’t see the image
      I posted 2 images........anybody else having trouble viewing?

      Quote Originally Posted by iq_artwork View Post
      Tim thank you very much!! What's the best material for that?
      I'd probably avoid using cork here. Either one of the other 2 shown in your pics should work fine. I can't read the tan stuff, but can see the gray calls out gasoline, so unless the tan stuff says that too, I'd go with the gray. Tim
    1. iq_artwork's Avatar
      iq_artwork -
      Tim thanks again!!
    1. iq_artwork's Avatar
      iq_artwork -
      Hello everyone,
      Today I tried to adjust my sensor on my TB. I bought a new Beck/Arbley #8945214020 from RockAuto.

      Here's a video of my process, is this right?
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJLJ5EfYvAQ
    1. Jdelgado's Avatar
      Jdelgado -
      Video is private, Can you change to public view?
    1. timsrv's Avatar
      timsrv -
      Quote Originally Posted by Jdelgado View Post
      Video is private, Can you change to public view?
      X2
    1. iq_artwork's Avatar
      iq_artwork -
      Ops I'm sorry about that .. I published it now.

      My other question is,
      I removed the feeler gauge and open and close the TB, do I need to have continuity all the time?