I need to remove the power steering pump on our 1984 Van. Does the pulley need to be removed before the pump can be removed from the cylinder head ?
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I need to remove the power steering pump on our 1984 Van. Does the pulley need to be removed before the pump can be removed from the cylinder head ?
Yes
I'm just getting ready to do this to. Is there a how-to somewhere? I spent some time loosening the bolt on top of the idler pulley trying to figure out why the belt wouldn't come loose.
What's the best way to remove the pulley from the pump?
I had the radiator out at the time, this gave me room to use an impact wrench [air] and zinged the nut off.
The idler pulleys for the belts have a lock bolt and an adjusting bolt. The lock bolt is the one in the very middle of the pulley (front center). Before adjusting you need to loosen the lock bolt. Once that is broke loose, you can now loosen or tighten the belt using the adjustment bolt (sticking straight up behind the pulley). There are a couple ways to get the PS pulley nut off the shaft. If your radiator is out, then an impact is the tool of choice. If the radiator and shroud are there, then I'll use quick jerky motions with a breaker bar or long ratchet while holding tension on the belt with the other hand. If the nut is too tight (engine rotates before nut breaks loose), then I'll remove the belt & hold the pulley in place with a chain wrench. I typically avoid using the chain wrench as it leaves little nicks on the pulleys outer edge, but sometimes it's the only way. Here's some pics of the chain wrench in action (although here I'm using it here to torque the crankshaft pulley).
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...01IMG_8958.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...02IMG_8952.jpg
Once the nut & belt are removed the pulley slides right off the shaft. Make note of which direction the pulley faces as it can be installed backwards (and this creates a belt alignment problem). Pull your coolant recovery tank and move it out of the way.
Now is a good time to remove the pressure and return lines. these usually don't leak much (usually less than a cup), but I like to have a container ready to set the hose/bracket in while I work. Also a good idea to put shop rags or paper towels between the pump and the alternator BEFORE removing the lines. I pull the suction line off 1st (one on top) by removing the 2 bracket bolts on each side of the pump, then it will pull straight up and off. Sometimes it sticks and might need a bit of persuasion. A screw driver or similar tool can be used to pry between bracket and pump (work from side to side to keep pressure even). Put the bracket/hose in your container and move to the side (out of your way). I usually just let the pressure line leak on the rags/paper towels. Next I'll remove the vacuum lines from the Air control valve (bottom of pump).
Now remove the 2 bolts (previously blocked by the pulley). Inner one is about 4" long and goes through bracket, the 3rd bolt goes in from the back (all have 14mm heads). Pump will now wiggle and with a little persuasion it can be slid down and out. It's a tight fit but there's enough room to clear the bracket. Once out and on the bench you'll need to remove some parts to put on your new pump.
A vice can be very helpful for this next part. There is a woodruff key in the shaft. If your new pump doesn't have the key, you'll need to knock it off the old shaft and re-use. A standard chisel and hammer work well for this. Simply put the chisel between the shaft and the key (from the front) and give it a light tap. Once out set in new pump's key way and tap into place with hammer. The air control valve is next. Just grab onto the hex portion of it with a wrench and remove. This seals via an inverted flare, so no thread sealant required (but it needs to be tight). Be sure the bottom of the bore and the tip of the valve is clean before installing in your new pump. When you put this in make sure it's tight (you won't get a 2nd chance to tighten once the pump is installed). Now the pump is ready to put back on.
Things to note: Always replace the o-ring on the return line bracket. Wet it with Vasoline or ATF before putting this back on. If you have the banjo type pressure fitting, be sure to use new copper washers on each side of the banjo fitting. Service reservoir with Dexron III ATF. Check fluid level again after test drive and top off as required.
Hint: Chain wrench works just as good for installation as it does for removal. Tim
got a noisey pump so doing some research. This is one of the more terrifying TVT articles I have come across. Looks like only about 50 things that could snap or otherwise go wrong here - ha!
If your pump is making noise, read THIS before replacing the pump.
woodruff key is it hard to remove and install?
I just completed the filter cleanse following your instructions above Tim - looks nice, but still making the same whirring noise. Slightly louder when turning the wheels and much louder through rev cycles.
After the filter cleanse, is there any next steps before a full tear down of the pump?
It just sits in the groove. You might be able to pry it out with a screwdriver, but I usually tap it with a punch from the front (not hard to remove).Quote:
Originally Posted by JPERL
The pump whining is usually the result of cavitation. Restriction of fluid can cause this and/or introduction of air into the system. Check the inlet hose to the pump to make sure it isn't kinked and/or collapsing. If all that looks good, then maybe there's something wrong with the pump???Quote:
Originally Posted by cpginkpt
I cut a section of an old belt and use it on the pulley to prevent knicksQuote:
Originally Posted by timsrv