Remove replace Supercharger

I bought a JDM Supercharger to replace the one in my 96 that was dry of oil when I bought it, and I'm pretty sure is shot.

After getting various things like the throttle body, air intake, etc. out of the way, my manual has one removing the SC piece by piece, by-pass valve, pipes, etc., but the JDM unit is complete so I'd rather not start pulling it apart to get it in there.

Is there some sort of jujitsu that will allow me to remove and replace the SC without taking apart the adjoined pipes, valve, etc?

Or is the SADS bracket too in the way?

Going in from below? (A Previa dude I chatted with once in a parking lot mumbled something to that effect).

I also saw a thread where a dude removed the entire SADS bracket with the SC. It sounded heinous. I'd like to avoid that, too. Of course, I'd rather not drop the engine, either.

Would love to hear from someone who's removed and replaced the SC. I've only glanced around under the hood with intention and looked at my manual. I haven't started yet.

The extra problem is that I don't know where I'd get new gaskets and such if I have to start tearing the JDM one apart.

Thanks.

R U sure the old one is bad, unusual for the superchargers to go bad. have had 4 previas and never a bad one. just because there is no sc oil on the dipstick doesn't mean its not working or totally dry,. one of mine did use or leak some sc oil after continually adding some each oil change,, down to just below the dipstick each time, but the sc always worked fine. I would hook a boost gage up and see if getting the normal 6psi boost, or unplug the sc relay above the battery BRIEFLY to discern if any difference. have heard removing sc is a pain and time consuming; have never had to do it though

Thanks for the reply:

I have not tested boost- don't have the gear.

My symptoms: no real power. Especially at the bottom of lower gears. Compared to the 95 I used to have.

Oil was gone when I got it. At least on the dipstick. Refilled. Year later, gone again.

Clutch on SC is always spinning the pump, even at idle.

Rattle noises from that area at high RPMS when the pump is really spinning.

Here's the other important circumstance: I'm going to to replace many of my A/C components including my condenser and the compressor which seized and burnt through the belt, so when I saw a pretty good deal on the JDM SC, I figured I would have most of the stuff out of the way already, so...

Planning on thoroughly cleaning the Throttle Body while its out, too.

my 95 previa supercharged didn't have any power or low end torque when I bought it. the previous owner said he thought it was a bad sc. I knew they rarely go bad and the van was less than 70k miles, so I took a chance and bought it; great deal. got a cheap boost gauge at harbor freight and hooked it in to the manifold front top near the top of the oil dip stick. there is a vacuum hose there coming from the fpr. got 6psi boost so I knew it wasn't the supercharger. I replaced almost everything including mass air flow sensor, fuel filter, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, tps, o2 sensor, etc., all to no avail. got a scan guage ii which hooks up to the obd2 port near the fuses. on my normal 97 alltrac I noticed the timing seldom was negative or retarted, while in my no power 95 it was frequently neg 10 or so, esp. with acceleration. so retarded timing is usually only 2 things, the ecu or knock sensor. had a spare ecu, made no difference. read on the old yahoo previa group lists about this prob. which has happened to others, and how to attenuate the knock sensor signal with a 1k resister from radioshack., shorted to ground at the ecu. knock sensor replacement itself requires engine removal apparently.
problem fixed!! finally had normal acceleration . took me 3 months to figure this out with help from old yahoo previa group lists. I run premium gas just to make knocking unlikely. no problems so far.
this was a known previa problem on a few select vans, and apparently had led to occasional engine replacement under warranty back then.

I would not go thru the pain and time of replacing the sc unless you KNOW for sure its bad. Removing the sc relay wont help you since you have no power anyway
Just get a boost gage and check the boost, its easy to hook up. good luck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cb97alltrac

read on the old yahoo previa group lists about this prob. which has happened to others, and how to attenuate the knock sensor signal with a 1k resister from radioshack., shorted to ground at the ecu. knock sensor replacement itself requires engine removal apparently.
problem fixed!! finally had normal acceleration . took me 3 months to figure this out with help from old yahoo previa group lists. I run premium gas just to make knocking unlikely. no problems so far.

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Thanks for the advice. Do you know where the above procedure is explained in a thread? Or can you explain it?