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Hello,
My cig lighter, dome light & clock has been blowing fuses. They each have fuse. The clock jumps back to 1:00
after I reset it. I looked at the book & they all have common ground. I bet there's probably a burnt wire/s
near the connectors like what happened with the headlights. If anybody had the same problem can you
please shed some light in my dilemna?
I'm going to work on this myself & take off the dash. It's a painstaking work with electrical shorts.
Thank you,
Wesley
I'm also chasing an intermittent short that blows my "Guages" 7.5A fuse on occasion - resulting in the engine cranking and not starting, and the power windows not working. Studying the electrical diagram and working on my flexibility/contortion artist skills. Arrgghhh.
WC
If your 87 is the same as my 88, then fr cigar lighter, dome light and clock all reference the same ground point listed as "c" - located on cowl right.
Hope that helps.
MT
Gauges fuse isn't so straight forward, power is fed from the ign switch, but on the other side of the fuse there are at least 3 branches that go off to various devices
BurntBoot: Thanks...trying to find the branch that's "the yellow brick road" is the trick. I'm still working to discover the branch of the "Guages" 7.5A circuit that is shorting on me intermittently. If anyone has experienced similar, please let me know.
MT
IF it is the same as my 88 manual:
7.5A Gauge fuse is fed by IG1 of the ignition switch, from there it has 4 branches.
First tap feeds overdrive computer and relay as well as back-up light circuit.
2nd tap feeds oil level warning computer + "to 4wd control switch, to power main relay, to seat belt warning relay".
3rd tap feeds gauges (oil, water, fuel, tach) + O/D switch and light + A/T oil temp indicator and seat belt warning light.
4th tap feeds gauge illumination.
Interestingly, all of those circuits utilize all every single ground point listed, what luck:
a - Cowl left, b - wiper bracket set bolt, c - Cowl right, d - engine compartment left, e - "Located on under chamber", f - left rear fender.
If it were me, I would find, disassemble, clean and lube all the ground points first.
I have no idea what "under chamber" references, all I can think of is under the air box but that is a WAG.
If that doesn't resolve the issue, look at the instrument cluster for signs of corrosion at the plug and on the printed circuit board as well as the light sockets. My bet is on the ground points though, unless you have a water leak at either the antenna mountings or windshield.
Good luck, am on a similar quest myself.
The clock & interior light fuse blows after a period of time after putting a new one. I stopped putting new
fuse till problem is solved.
Has anybody have the same problem ? This one is very tricky! It don't look like a serious short because it
blows much later. I was thinking there's probably a burnt wire/connectors like with the headlight issue.
Please let me know if you had same problem/s and fixed it! I truly appreciate it!
Wesley
Oh the dreaded "intermittent electrical short" issue. Anything intermittent is usually a PITA to find, but at least this is a pretty simple circuit. A likely place for this type of fault is at your door switches. Perhaps a wire in this area has been chaffing and or shorting out on the body metal there. I remember having a discussion about this on TVP a few years back. Here's a link to that thread. Tim
http://www.toyotavanpeople.com/forum...php?f=2&t=3934
Hello Tim,
I took off the 3 door switches and didn't see anything that can cause the blowing fuse for interior lights/clock
As i said before, it's a slow process after putting in a new fuse. I checked the ground wire which is near the
glove box according to the book schematic. Maybe a wire can be getting hot in a pitted connector like what
happened with the headlights. That can be the only logical reason.
Thank you,
Wesley
If you have the courtesy lamps in your doors, then another common place for this sort of problem is where the wires go between the doors and the body (in the door jam area). If yours is so equipped, you might try unplugging the door harnesses one at a time and leave them unplugged long enough to know if the problem still exists or not. If the problem goes away while a particular door is unplugged, but returns when that door is plugged back in, then focus your attention on that door harness. The wires to look at are the red and the red/white. Tim
To some extent it sounds like it may be overloaded as well, if it is not a short that is.
Have you or anyone else wired up aftermarket things like added lights or stereo or anything??
This could cause a similar issue.
Hello Eddie,
I owned the TV since new in 87 and no aftermarket gadgets were added! I don't know if it could also be
wires that developed high resistance and gets hot & blows the fuse. That happened on that wires coming
from the ignition switch and down the steering column connectors. I also had problem with headlight
flickering off/on and it turned out to be a pitted connector under dash on left side. So i spliced the wire off
the connector and never had the problem again !!
Back to the current problem, I am in the dark and wondering if anybody had the same situation & relate to
me!!!
Thank you,
Wesley
Did you try isolating (disconnecting) the doors like I suggested above? If so, did the fuse still blow?
how often does the fuse blow? once a week , month ??
Hello everyone,
I'm still having the same dilemma. Dome lights & clock fuse pops at a later time after putting in! I checked
front, slide & back door switches & wires. Put a test-light in place of fuse. When a door is opened test light
comes on. With test light on, i tried to grab/shake wires under dash and didn't see any flickering in test
light.
I am dumbfounded! Does anybody have any suggestions or same problem & found the root of the problem?
Thank you,
Wesley
Also, if you haven't done it already, replace the bulb. Sometimes bulbs can pull too much current do to an internal fault. TimQuote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
PS: I just searched the forum and found / combined 3 separate threads you started on this exact issue. For organization reasons, please avoid making multiple duplicate threads. Thank you.
Ok! I understand about the multiple threads on same issue! That won't happen again! I will look
into the bulbs and try replacing them.
Wesley
Quote:
Originally Posted by bald josh
Within the week! It's a delayed-popping fuse! I'm stumped!!!
I work out of my van, so every door is opened many times a day\but was thinking if you commuted and usually only used drivers door and say slider, but on weekends the rear hatch when you went and got building supplies or whatever, that it might be narrowed down to the rear as a starting point to dig deeper. if it blew once a day, id say drivers door as a starter
thought about that... does the rear hatch and slider work on the same fuse as front dome??? my rear cargo light is broken so maybe not, the door open light on the dash turns on so maybe so
I had this problem when I bought my van. It turned out to be that the clock was shorting out internally. I unplugged the clock and all has been fine since. I went around unplugging everything on the circuit until there was no longer 12V across the fuse terminals. The clock was the last thing I tried, too.
I hope you have similarly simple solution.
Poor ground will not blow a fuse to my knowledge! The lights/components just won't work! Fuse will blow whenQuote:
Originally Posted by Burntboot
overloaded or wires shorting to metal body or pitted connectors as i've experienced in the headlights connector
below steering column! SUGGESTIONS OR OPINIONS ?
Thanks,
Wesley