Testing fuel system / replacing fuel pressure regulator

For testing the fuel system I'm using Harbor Freight's cheap Injector Pump Test Kit. The van I'm testing is an 89 2wd cargo van. I'm troubleshooting a hard start problem. Van requires excessive cranking (about 5 seconds or so) for each start.

This kit is a real bargain for just $19.99 :) .
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...01IMG_8999.jpg

The arrows point to the parts I'm using.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...02IMG_9000.jpg

Here is a cold start injector line I took off one of my parts vans.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...03IMG_9001.jpg

I cut one end off and put the 1st half of a double flare in it using a 3/16" flare tool.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...04IMG_9002.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...05IMG_9004.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...06IMG_9005.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...07IMG_9006.jpg

Having that barb on the end is important because the injector line is significantly smaller than the brass adaptor I'm splicing it to. I center the clamp over the barb to ensure a tight seal.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...08IMG_9007.jpg

Oddly enough, this pressure gauge uses a pipe thread. I apply Teflon tape to prevent a fuel leak.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...09IMG_9008.jpg

Yippee! I have my very own custom Toyota van fuel pressure gauge :dance2: !
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...10IMG_9009.jpg

Next I open my hood and remove the cold start injector line from the injector manifold.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...11IMG_9010.jpg

I attach my gauge to the injector manifold.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...12IMG_9012.jpg

Next I find my fuel pump test connector and pull it up where it's accessible
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...13IMG_9014.jpg

Here's my handy dandy jumper wire :)>: .
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...14IMG_9015.jpg

I plug it into the test connector and jump the terminals together.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...15IMG_9016.jpg

Next step is to turn the ignition switch to the "run" position (DO NOT START). Now I can check the pressure in the injector manifold. Pressure should be 38-44 psi. Assuming the gauge is accurate, it looks like I have a bad regulator. High pressure can only be a bad regulator. If pressure was low, it could be a bad fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or a bad regulator. Warning: Gasoline is very flammable. If you have any leaks STOP the test immediately and repair them before continuing!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...16IMG_9017.jpg

Next step is to remove the jumper wire from the "fuel pump test connector", then remove the vacuum line from the fuel regulator and plug the vacuum supply line. These little rubber vacuum plugs come in handy for this.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...18IMG_9020.jpg

Okay, it's done. Here's a view from underneath.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...19IMG_9021.jpg

Next step is to start the engine and run for at least 2 minutes. After the 2 minutes is up, record fuel pressure (should be 30 - 33 PSI while idling). If high, the only thing it can be is a bad regulator. Of course, we already know it's bad :evil: .
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...17IMG_9018.jpg

Next I'll do the leak-down test (premature loss of pressure after shut-down). This is done by removing the jumper wire from the "fuel pump test connector" and watching to see if pressure remains. Fuel pressure should stay above 21 PSI for at least 5 min. If the pressure drops below 21 PSI in less than 5 minutes, then it could be a bad check valve at the fuel pump, a bad regulator, leaky injector(s), or an external leak in the system. The service manual says to do this at the end of the above "idling test", but I chose to do it with the jumper wire test instead (doesn't make any difference) Let's see what happens. Click on image below to view video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn5Nwj-20ZI

Well, as far as my regulator is concerned, it's a good thing I picked one up ahead of time. The only question I have now is what component(s) are responsible for the failed leak-down test. I'm hoping like heck that problem lies entirely within my regulator (remember, that problem can also be caused by a bad pump, leaky injector(s), or an external leak). Time to break out the new regulator and hope this solves everything!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...20IMG_9023.jpg

For you 2wd van owners, here's the bugger as viewed from underneath (you 4wd van owners have my condolences :bdmd:). Before you do anything else, remove the 10mm bolt that holds the metal bypass pipe to the intake manifold. This will give you just enough room to squeak by with the other things you need to do here. Next use a 12mm box end wrench to remove the fuel line banjo fitting. Be ready for some gas to drip down. After the banjo fitting is removed, it's time to remove the (2) 10mm mount screws.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...21IMG_9026.jpg

I'm using a 1/4" drive ratchet, some long extensions, and a 10mm socket here. After the mount screws are off, the regulator will pull down and out. It will most likely be followed by another oz. or 2 of gasoline, so take the necessary precautions. My regulator was stubborn, so I reached up there with a long nose pair of vice grips to remove.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...22IMG_9027.jpg

Once off, inspect the mount area to be sure it's free of debris. Especially check the mounting hole and verify no parts of the old o-ring remain.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9032.jpg

Lube up the o-ring and shaft of the new regulator with petroleum jelly to help it slide smoothly into place.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...23IMG_9025.jpg

Now put it all back together again. Make sure the new regulator is seated all the way up and it is sitting flat before installing mount screws. Don't forget to put your bypass pipe mount bolt back in.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...23IMG_9039.jpg

Okay, now for the moment of truth. Keep your fingers crossed! click on image below to view video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlDr0GvoQwE

:dance1: :dance1: :dance1: Looks like my hunch was right. Thank goodness I don't need to pull my fuel pump out (this thing has taken enough of my time lately). Tim

Note: This fuel regulator is listed for 88-89 vans and is Toyota Part # 23280-73040. At the time of this post the MSRP on this is $172.40, but it can be had for around $125.00 from one of those discount internet sites like www.1stToyotaParts.com.

hi timsrv that was a beatiful piece of work ya did !!! and best of all we,ill be able to find it anytime here on tvt. i for one am glad to have a tech on board that makes good pics (complete with arrows) and easy to understand text. thanx timsrv. yer work here does,nt go unnoticed!

Thank you :). It's awesome to be able to do this. In the past too many things were lost and too many links broken. Now with TVT that is finally behind us. I'd like to extend a big thank you to those of you who have donated (and continue to donate) to the site. It's really the combined efforts of all Toyota van enthusiasts that make this possible. The Library needs a lot more work, but it's slowly starting to take shape. It's our goal to be one of the best organized car sites out there. Just check out the EFI section of the TVT Van service manual. It keeps getting better and better and we're gaining momentum. Keep the tech questions coming and We'll keep working to provide everyone with detailed and comprehensive answers. :wave2: Tim

Here's links to some other related threads:

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...el-Injector(s)

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...=3233#post3233

Sorry to hijack an old thread - could high fuel pressure cause a van to run very rich? Fuel pressure is one of the only things I haven't checked. I know the shop did a leakdown test but I did not think to ask them what the pressure was.

Also, are there adapters you can buy to allow this to plug in directly? I do not have an extra cold start line or a flare tool.

It looks like this one MIGHT have the right adapter but I can't be sure:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009XQUKC/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Reducto

Sorry to hijack an old thread - could high fuel pressure cause a van to run very rich? Fuel pressure is one of the only things I haven't checked. I know the shop did a leakdown test but I did not think to ask them what the pressure was.

Also, are there adapters you can buy to allow this to plug in directly? I do not have an extra cold start line or a flare tool.

It looks like this one MIGHT have the right adapter but I can't be sure:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009XQUKC/

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Not really, at least not if the rest of the EFI system is working correctly. The ECU monitors the o2 sensor(s) and will adjust fuel mix based on that. If an o2 sensor is bad or there is a related fault with wiring or the ECU, then more pressure might make it run a tiny bit richer, but probably not enough to notice.

It looks like there's a banjo fitting in that kit, but hard to tell if it's the correct size.

As to your running rich issue, perhaps you have a stuck or leaky injector. Have you had these checked? Tim

I would just like to say its always worth checking amazon for car parts.

Fuel pressure Regulator

BWD 21831 @ Oriley = $109
GP Sorensen/Fuel Pressure Regulator 800-145 @ Auto Zone = $109

BECK/ARNLEY 1580197 @ Rock Auto = $44


BECK/ARNLEY 1580197 @ Amazon with 2 day Shipping = $ 11
:dance2:

Add 1 day shipping: = $4!!!!

:dance2::dance2::dance2:
I cant afford to not have one.

Aftermarket FPR's are much cheaper, but I've used 2 different brands with bad results. About a year ago I found a killer deal on OE Denso FPRs. I just checked the link and see it's still good. Here's a quote from that post:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

BTW, there's a killer deal on Genuine Denso OE regulators on eBay right now (I just bought 8 of them). The guy was selling for only $35 each, but after I ended 2 of his auctions he raised the price to $45 :rol:. Here's a link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYOSAN-DENSO...375767?vxp=mtr (and yes, I have received and verified they are OE Denso regulators). Tim

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If you click on the blue arrow in that quote (next to my name) it will take you to that thread where you can see close up pics of the FPRs I received.

Beck Arnley usually buys in bulk from multiple sources. Occasionally they sell surplus OE stuff. So there's a chance you'll get OE Denso too. When it comes to FPRs, I learned the hard way to only trust OE.........even though they are stupid expensive (through Toyota). That's why I went nuts and got so many of the ones on eBay. Good luck with the BA FPR. Please post to let us know what you get. I'm hoping you get OE. Tim

Trouble shooting hard starting.

Fuel pump on only = 37 psi
Engine running = 33 psi
engine running w/ vacuum line disconnected = 38 psi
Bleed down after sitting 5 min = 35 psi

Van starts quickly with the throttle open.

Thoughts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by coronan

Trouble shooting hard starting.

Fuel pump on only = 37 psi
Engine running = 33 psi
engine running w/ vacuum line disconnected = 38 psi
Bleed down after sitting 5 min = 35 psi

Van starts quickly with the throttle open.

Thoughts?

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Your FPR sounds good (84 - 87 vans spec out lower psi than 88 - 89). To help combat heat soak, I put the later FPRs & Dampers on all my vans (even the early ones). Unless you only have a problem with hot starts (under classic heat soak conditions), I don't think replacing the FPR will help. Have you checked codes?

Attachment 3200
Here is the $11 FPR.
The only markings on it say "?10ADAD"

Going in the spares for now.

Any online sources for the banjo line?

I'd like to replicate the Harbor Freight testing scenario, but don't know of any willing donor vans.

This one is online for a truck, and another for a celica. Maybe close enough? I'm just looking for the line currently.

Thanks folks!

I believe what you need is an * M8 X 8 MM banjo to barb fitting. These appear to be hard to find, but there's a listing on eBay that lists one this size (when you end the auction you request the size you want and he'll ship). If you get it, please let us know if it works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GROOVE-STEP-...5u5lGQ&vxp=mtr

Another option might be to find a fitting like Kwik Kwak did in this post over on TVP: http://www.toyotavanpeople.com/forum...p=46542#p46542

I just put an order in for a few. In the meantime, the van when from cranking and not starting to starting with no problem, which is a plus.

I also picked up one of these in an attempt to flare the end and go that direction. The shipping was fast, especially compared to the estimated month is will take to get the M8 8mm fitting in from the UK. Spoiled by amazon prime I suppose.

Now I need to pick up a flaring tool and continue to build the tool collection...

I just replaced my FPR and found it to be very challenging. Removing the 10mm bolt holding the bypass line in place didn't allow me to easily move the line out of the way. I had to use a crow bar to bend them out of the way. Even then, I could just *barely* get a socket on the outboard 10mm fastener holding the FPR in place. Also found it impossible to get both of the brass/copper banjo bolt washers back on in that extremely tight space. So far no leaks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pinkgrips236

Any online sources for the banjo line?

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Anyone come up with a (relatively) cost-effective and (relatively) obtainable solution to this problem? There is no hope of finding a cold start injector line for a van locally, and the M8 X 8 MM banjo fittings are way too expensive online for what they are and for the ones I found I'm not even really sure that they're the right size.

I google'd the SST number that the manual calls for to do the job (SST 09268-45012) and it also seems to be the same SST called for in at least 2nd gen 4Runners and similar vintage T-100s/Tacomas (with the 3.0 V6), as well as 97-03 Siennas, 90's Celicas (the 4A–FE and 5S–FE variants), and I'm sure a lot of others. My logic is that, if all these different vehicles use the same SST, then they should also have the same size banjo fittings. Of course, the SST could be swappable at the fitting end, but it doesn't mention anything like "use X fitting on SST," or the like in either the Van FSM or the Celica FSM so I'm going to assume that they're the same.

I'm going to go to the yard next weekend and scour the Toyota section until I can find a banjo line I can get to and test this theory out. I bought my Harbor Freight test kit today (still $19.99 after all these years, $15 w/ their 25% coupon), trying to diagnose a hard start issue on both my 86 van as well as my 87 4Runner.

Greetings,

I didn't have access to a spare cold-start injector pipe so I bought a few banjo fittings from belmetric.com ($6.89 each). I made the fuel pressure gauge adapter and have extras in case I want to make a hose to test the cold-start injector. Works great!

https://www.belmetric.com/eye-fittin...g-p-12169.html


Attachment 9051
Attachment 9052

I'm looking to buy a OEM Fuel Pressure Regulator for my van.
Is the part #23280-7310 FPR discontinued? or is there another FPR with a different part number will fitting in our vans?

thanks

Yes, unfortunately this is yet another discontinued part now. If you go to eBay and type in "toyota van fuel pressure regulator" you will get many listings for aftermarket regulators. Some are pretty cheap and some are almost as expensive as the OEM (back when you could still get it). If I had to guess, I'm thinking some of these probably aren't bad, but some are junk. The problem is going to be figuring out which is which.

About 7 years ago I experimented with a couple different aftermarket FPR's and neither lasted for more than a few months. I should have kept track of the brands and type of failure I experienced, but I failed to do that (sorry). I did have a contaminated fuel system at the time though, so that could have led to their early demise. I finally found an eBay listing for Denso #020010-1060 OE Identical FPR's and that did the trick. I've been using that same one for ~ 6 years/85k miles with no issues. Sadly, I just searched for that one and couldn't find anything. BTW, 89 Vans used FPR's that put out slightly higher pressure. They did that to combat the heat soak issue, so regardless of what year van you have, I would buy a regulator for an 89. Since they also changed the FPD (Fuel Pulsation Damper), if you go with the 89 FPR, I'd also recommend replacing the FPD with one made for an 89 at the same time. Tim

Thank you Tim for your quick a great answer! I read some of your old posts about the aftermarket FPR and I decided to go with an OEM FPR, if I can find one.

I looked online and unfortunately the '89 FPR #23280-73040 is discontinued as well :(
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...280-73040.html

I was able to find the Fuel Pressure Pulsation #23270-73010 https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...270-73010.html

My van died the other night going up a hill it came to a sluggish stop. I pulled over and there was no throttle response- low 500rpm idle. Turned it off, waited 5 minites and it started and revved fine. Was gutless and went back to no throttle response. Towed home.

My first thought is the fuel filter ive been meaning to replace for some 60k miles since i got the van - I finally got the thin wall socket to get the filter off (over tightened bracket clamp blocking bolt that held it to engine). I take it off and no pressure or fuel comes out the top line like I expected. The fuel i shake out the bottom is brown and lots of particulate.

New filter, I jumped the fuel pump wire and can hear a click in the dash/fuse area but hear no fuel pump hum. Still no start. Does this sound like the pump? do i need to do a pressure test or shoud i assume the pump isnt working? if i drop the tank ill do full clean/restore.

From the filter
Attachment 11276

Settled for a few minutes
Attachment 11277