Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
Locking hubs clicking? Hard to turn the dial? Stuck in the "lock" position? Pulled the dial plate off and felt gross, ashamed and dirty? Then this write up is for you! (You know who you are!) :yes:
This write up applies to ANY Aisin manual hub.
Tools needed:
Wheel removal:
Floor jack
Jack stands
1/2" impact or breaker bar
21 mm socket
Hub removal:
3/8' ratchet (or air ratchet)
10 mm socket
12 mm deep socket
Brass drift
3 lb. hammer
Hub disassembly:
Tiny flat blade screw driver
Snap ring pliers (normally open style- either straight or curved)
Materials needed:
Rags
mineral spirits or other favorite cleaner/ degreaser and a small tub for parts. Parts washer also works.
q-tips
Hi-temp grease (red in color, for disc wheel bearings)
Hub dial O-ring- can be found HERE:http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/hub-o...al-o-ring.html
New hub gasket and star gasket for dial body- Can be found HERE:https://www.amazon.com/Nippon-Reinz-...ype=automotive
And Here: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyot...und-style.html
(If you can't locate these gaskets you can use a thin layer of black rtv in a pinch... and sometimes you get lucky and the existing ones stay intact/ untorn.)
That sums up the tools and the parts you will need!
Step 1. Jack up the front of the van and place some jack stands. The front crossmember between the lower a arms works well as a jacking point. place the jack stands in the appropriate locations and give it a bump test to make sure it's stable!
Step 2. Grab your impact and use the 21mm socket to remove the wheel. Set the tire off to the side and put the lug nuts next to it in a jar/ baggie. (They walk off!)
Step 3: Use the ratchet and 10mm socket to remove the outer hub dial (Free/ Lock dial)- Set the dial on a rag and inspect for damage (There shouldn't be any broken metal pieces or broken springs.Attachment 8194 Attachment 8195
Step 4. Using the ratchet and the 12mm socket pull the retaining bolt from the end of the shaft inside of the hub. You may need to hold the shaft with a pair of channel locks if it is on there to tight. Attachment 8196 Attachment 8197
Step 5. Again with the 12mm socket, remove the nuts and lock washers holding the hub body onto the wheel hub and set in a safe place (like the parts tub for cleaning). Using the brass drift and hammer give the hub body a tap, then rotate and tap the opposite side. It will take a bit to break the cone washers free from their holes! It shouldn't take much to break the hub free from the mounting surface. Sometimes the cone washers just break free and sometimes you may need to use a small screw driver to persuade them a bit. And if that doesn't work it's time for the PB Blaster. Place the cone washers in a safe place (Parts tub!). And then remove the hub body from it's mating surface. Attachment 8198 Attachment 8199
Step 6. Take a minute and inspect the wheel hub. Make sure everything looks correct (ie: Gasket condition, dowels, Nut, star washer and all that good stuff is in place. It's well lubed/ greased, not dry, gritty mucked up looking!) Spin the wheel and verify it rotates smooth with some slight drag from the brakes, feels like roughly 8-10 lbs. of resistance. Now is a good time to look at the pads/ caliper/ disc and make sure they are all good too~ Attachment 8200
Step 7. Grab the dial body and separate the gear from the body by turning it until it drops DOWN. Push up slightly and twist it off from the dial.. the spring will separate and the gear/ clutch pawl will be free. Heres a great video on the workings of the workings of the clutch to Pawl assembly (It will also come in to play for re-assembly!): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W78RkF1mUOE
Attachment 8201
Step 8: Remove the hub dial from the hub dial body to inspect the o-ring (these are ALWAYS bad or broken in hubs that have been neglected! A source of sticky hub dials that either turn hard or not at all). Use you snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring. Then STOP. Do NOT just pull the dial out! There is a tiny detent ball and spring on the side of the dial and it may fling out and get lost. I find it best to wrap the dial body in a rag the push the dial out, that way all the parts stay inside the rag. You can now inspect the o-ring and determine it's condition. This one, the o-ring fell out in pieces... like most do. Also notice the small spring and detent ball. Set them in a safe, stable place for re-assembly later! Install new o-ring if necessary. Attachment 8202 Attachment 8203 Attachment 8204
Step 9. Using the small screwdriver remove the snap ring and separate the axle driven gear from the hub body I find it easiest to slide the screw driver in a slot close to one end and work your way around it. Disassembly is now complete! Attachment 8205 Attachment 8206
Step 10. Clean all the components in that parts wash tub you should have been storing your parts in!:yes: I like to let them soak in mineral spirits for about a half an hour... then remove and wipe down with rags for re-assembly. It's also a good time to paint the dial and dial body if you wish, that way you can have fresh clean paint to scrape along the rocks next time whilst terrorizing the local back roads! WooT! Attachment 8207
Step 11. After all parts are cleaned/ painted it is time to re-assemble... Time to grease the parts while reassembling too. And guys/ gals, don't go crazy on the grease here. These parts don't get PACKED! They get a light coat. Light enough to operate freely. I use one of my wifes make-up applicator brushes I stole... works perfect! Again, just enough to coat the parts, not submerge them in grease! :thmbup: Heres an example of where I like mine, and it is even a bit thick. Attachment 8208
Mount the Hub body first and attach the cone washers, lock nuts and then the nuts... 12 mm and tighten them down. I use a screw driver between the hub and studs to hold it in place while tightening. The torque spec here is roughly 14-18 ft. lbs. if you are more comfortable using a torque wrench (I rarely do that, I just go by feel).
After you are done tightening the nuts, re-install the axle retaining bolt... no need to go crazy here, Hand tight and then a few ft. lbs. more. (This bolts sole purpose is to keep the axle from sliding out of the hub body.
Install the hub dial back into the Dial body and DO NOT FORGET to install the small spring and detent ball. Secure dial in place with snap ring! Be sure the o-ring gets a light coat of grease also, as well as all the moving parts in the assembly!
Use the video posted above and reassemble the pawl/ clutch gear assembly to the hub dial. Your freshly maintained lockout hub should spin nice and easy now! Install the dial back onto the hub body with the 10mm socket... Again, the torque settings here are 7 ft. lbs. Hand tight and then a bit more works also!
Now have a beer, cup of coffee or whatever and enjoy your workmanship! Attachment 8209
Then get the other side done! :dance2:
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
Tool list, parts list and #, links, pics, video, super detailed write up, every thing you need, nothing you don't to make this DIY easy! :clap: Awesome :thmbup: Thanks Flecker.
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
Excellent write-up
I would add 2 small things though
1) not ALL Aisin hubs have cone washers.
(Red has Aisin hubs with no cones and different gaskets )
2) Step #4, removing the axle centre bolt, there should (may) be a shim under that bolt
that needs to be reinstalled, also a good idea to check axle end play every time your in there.
Failure to have the correct endplay can do damage to the inner stub axle bearings/bushings and yes, there is a thread about that repair, too :}
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Burntboot
Excellent write-up
I would add 2 small things though
1) not ALL Aisin hubs have cone washers.
(Red has Aisin hubs with no cones and different gaskets )
2) Step #4, removing the axle centre bolt, there should (may) be a shim under that bolt
that needs to be reinstalled, also a good idea to check axle end play every time your in there.
Failure to have the correct endplay can do damage to the inner stub axle bearings/bushings and yes, there is a thread about that repair, too :}
Interesting Burnboot... I don't think I have ever seen an Aisin hub on a Toyota or Suzuki without the cone washers. That is a new one for me! Pics if ya got em, and we can specify for those types of hubs. :thmbup:
As for the center bolt, I have always seen it as a back up, if the c clip holding the axle in the spindle breaks and as a place to grab and pull the axle into the spindle far enough to get the c clip on it's groove... not sure what a shim under the bolt and washer would be good for??? It doesn't really ride on anything... Of course I am a newbie to these vans, so I am always up for learning about new things!
Thanks!
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
From the thread Wheel noise?
From page FA-60 of the service manual - install a small pair of vice grips to the axle end bolt and pull (22ft-lbs of force),
insert a feeler gauge between the washer and spindle outside bushing.
fr drive shaft thrust clearance: 0.075-0.690mm (.0030-0272in)
Spacer is available in 2 widths 1.80mm(.0709in) and 2.25mm(.0886in)
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Burntboot
From the thread Wheel noise?
From page FA-60 of the service manual - install a small pair of vice grips to the axle end bolt and pull (22ft-lbs of force),
insert a feeler gauge between the washer and spindle outside bushing.
fr drive shaft thrust clearance: 0.075-0.690mm (.0030-0272in)
Spacer is available in 2 widths 1.80mm(.0709in) and 2.25mm(.0886in)
OK, I see what your getting at... It's page FA-61 of the FSM. That spacer you are refering to goes behind the snap ring when installing or repairing the CV axle. And yes it needs to be there if required, it's a thrust washer basically.
On the next write up where we talk about removing/ repairing/ installing a new or rebuilt CV axle we can put it in there! For just removing the hub though I don't think it's necessary unless you want to inspect it whilst your in there... by all means! Couldn't hurt.
The spacer doesn't go behind the nut and washer. It goes behind the snap ring that holds the CV axle in place.
Flecker
And throw a pic of your Aisin hub without the cone washers up~ You peeked my interest!!! :dance2:
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
My CRS is clearly getting worse.
That makes me 3 for 3 on bad/incorrect advice in the past 4 weeks.
Thanks for setting the record straight.
Pics will have to wait for the glacier to recede, the zippers on my garage door don't work when covered in ice and we've had snow on the ground since Nov 7th :no:
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
:LOL2:, My CRS is 2nd only to my CSS. Often find myself asking ! Where did I leave my glasses?:roflmao: No worry about it Burntboot, you are still 100's Good/correct he-head :thmbup:
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
A good practice is to clean before disassembly. Hit the wheel studs with a wire brush. Loose juice on 6mm dia bolts and studs. Loosen by hand and you at times can feel them begin to shear.
Treat your own stuff like it is COD work and you have to warranty it.
A fish scale is great for measuring the 22lb pull, and is used often for setting other Japanese wheel bearings. And their drag.
You set some full floating rears that way also
Well written and documented article. Thank you.
It took me a while to figure the FSM didn't mean Flying Spaghetti Monster.
May you be touched by his noodily appendage.
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Flecker
Step 5. Again with the 12mm socket, remove the nuts and lock washers holding the hub body onto the wheel hub and set in a safe place (like the parts tub for cleaning). Using the brass drift and hammer give the hub body a tap, then rotate and tap the opposite side. It will take a bit to break the cone washers free from their holes! It shouldn't take much to break the hub free from the mounting surface. Sometimes the cone washers just break free and sometimes you may need to use a small screw driver to persuade them a bit. And if that doesn't work it's time for the PB Blaster. Place the cone washers in a safe place (Parts tub!). And then remove the hub body from it's mating surface.
Attachment 8198 Attachment 8199
Thanks, this is helpful, but unfortunately the image attachments aren't working for me. I'm trying to remove the manual locking hubs from a 4WD van at the junkyard, but I've never done it before, and they aren't coming off very easily for me. I got as far as removing the 12mm bolt behind the dial cover, and the 6 12mm nuts from the rear of the hub, but prying and banging on it after that with a hammer didn't get it to budge at all. I wanted to check on here with you guys to make sure I wasn't missing something, but sounds like it should be coming off for me at this point. I'm not sure what the "cone washers" are that you're referring to, except that I noticed there were still washers behind all of the 6 12mm nuts/lock washers that I removed, so maybe that's it. It sounds like I maybe need to try prying those out next and then try to knock the hub free. Thanks for any tips or pics.
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
batook
Thanks, this is helpful, but unfortunately the image attachments aren't working for me. I'm trying to remove the manual locking hubs from a 4WD van at the junkyard, but I've never done it before, and they aren't coming off very easily for me. I got as far as removing the 12mm bolt behind the dial cover, and the 6 12mm nuts from the rear of the hub, but prying and banging on it after that with a hammer didn't get it to budge at all. I wanted to check on here with you guys to make sure I wasn't missing something, but sounds like it should be coming off for me at this point. I'm not sure what the "cone washers" are that you're referring to, except that I noticed there were still washers behind all of the 6 12mm nuts/lock washers that I removed, so maybe that's it. It sounds like I maybe need to try prying those out next and then try to knock the hub free. Thanks for any tips or pics.
Think of an ice cream cone. A two inch section of the ice cream cone is what a cone washer looks like.https://www.ebay.com/i/361963621861?chn=ps
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
you want to strike cone studs with a brass drift dead on the end, this will 'release' the cones, dont bang or pry on thie hub body! theres a few youtube videos of this, it works!
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
boogieman
you want to strike cone studs with a brass drift dead on the end, this will 'release' the cones, dont bang or pry on thie hub body! theres a few youtube videos of this, it works!
Thanks, yeah I watched a few and get the gist now. I was gently prying against the dial cover and a lug nut stud, so hopefully it didn't damage the hub too much.
Re: Manual locking hub rebuild/ maintenance.
What also works is to find a tiny, slim screw driver... and put it in the small gap on the cone washer. light tap with a small hammer and twist. And Waa La. It's loose.
