Bad Coolant Leak + Overheating

The van has been running pretty well lately aside from a really weird steering issue here and there but last week I was on my way home when I noticed a puddle of coolant under my driver’s side right tire, I checked my coolant tank and it was far below the low line, I put a little bit more coolant in it and drove it to a friends so I could work on it but on the 4 mile, mostly downhill drive there my temperature gauge made it’s was passed the H even when I toggled the electric radiator fan it was still increasing. When I took a look around it appeared that although my tank was full there was nothing in the radiator cap but I can’t find any obvious place the leak is coming from. It seems to be centralized on the drivers side of the radiator but there’s a lot, dripping off around behind my drivers side tire. When I checked my cap the stem was dry, there doesn’t seem to be coolant running through the system. My oil isn’t milkshakey so I don’t think it’s head gasket related(Hopefully) Any ideas?

When my van has gotten super hot for periods I usually turn her off if she's encroaching on that red zone - sounds like you entered it - but when that happens, sometimes coolant simply bubbles out of the overflow tank even if your system wasn't overfilled.... it could be that your system is sound and something besides a leak caused overheat, which caused it to 'boil over' as best as I can describe it. Did you hear bubbling?

Pressure tester from O'Reilly's is rentable and has been my best friend troubleshooting cooling issues and working on the system. She should be at 15psi, and once up to pressure any leaks/faulty hoses will definitely be obvious.

Would definitely replace your lower radiator hose (from the pic it's hard to tell - but looks like the upper hose pictured is pretty old - easy to do both!) Then I've also heard that the hose to the overflow tank can cause overheat and it's an easy one to replace, too. I did have to cut to size from O'Reilly's - could probably look up the size for you - and that would cause leaks on the driver side too if it wasn't allowing coolant to enter back into the system after exiting into the overflow.

After doing any hose work - would recommend pressure testing again :) That's what I'm doing this morning after a fan clutch replacement... I've had even a mechanic miss reattaching a hose properly..... and I certainly have caught my own shoddy work on another occasion...

Best of luck! If any of this is too vague or if you'd like me to check on part numbers - let me know! There's some great resources on here that guided me through redoing all my hoses and troubleshooting overheat.

1st off there has to be about a hundred threads on cooling systems and various problems and trouble shooting exercises.
2nd off, jumping in and changing parts is a great way to empty your wallet before finding out where you really need to spend your coin.

Not saying it doesn't need rad hoses replaced but unless they are leaking they should be fine for diagnostic work to proceed.
Read all the threads, there are several that will be very pertinent, like the over-flow hose thread.

Then, fill the system (at the engine cap, not the overflow tank) and start your diagnosing.
At this point what you want to do is get the system sealed so that you can do proper testing and determine the extent of the problems.
As you work thru the system, make notes on anything that looks like it should be addressed (hoses, et al) and once you verify that all is okay in there, then you can work thru the maintenance issues.

The Red zone isn't a place you want to visit, its red for a reason, kinda like stop lights.
Understand that no engine likes to be overheated or even "run hot" for any length of time.
30+ yr old engines are even less tolerant of abuse.

If you're having trouble searching for appropriate threads, look at "Site Announcements" for help on that matter.

Out of curiosity where is the leak?
"I noticed a puddle of coolant under my driver’s side right tire"

I found a puddle of coolant under my passenger side(JDM) the other day.

I refilled my reservoir :cnfsd: it was full at the engine cap
but since it hasn't happened again, I'm guessing my water pump is starting to fail and leaking. :bdmd:

Q) What are the 2 most expensive words in auto repair:

A) "I'm guessing"

These are invaluable for coolant leaks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by originalkwyjibo

These are invaluable for coolant leaks.

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Thank you, that did help greatly.
Enough to realize, unfortunately was not a bad hose. Well not that I could see
Its leaking from the rad., near the outlet hose. very sus
So I'm trying to remove rad and get a better view.

Attachment 10770


Man those radiator hoses, inlet and outlet are very stuck on.

I even tried using a propane torch to warm up the hose but that didn't help it slide off. :cnfsd:

any other advice outside of cutting them off? I'm in a hold position until
a) find replacement hose. then can cut off old hoses and replace.
b) Add lube, keep prying, keep twisting, keep pulling, slip them off. :dance2: and then they fail later. :bdmd:

Try one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4521-Hose.../dp/B0050SFZBG
Or Google "radiator hose removal tool". They come in different shapes, lengths, and angles.

The tool that Original quoted will do the job.
I use an old skinny screwdriver (not a sharp edge on the thing) also have one with a bend in it.
Slide between the fitting and the hose and gently work it around the fitting, sometimes you can just crack one side loose and it'll come, other times you'll have to work the tool all the way around.

It can be tempting to get in there and start twisting and reefing but care needs to be taken.
It is actually quite easy to damage the rad fittings (heater core inlet/outlets are even easier to destroy, BTDT)

It can also be tempting top use a big pair of pliers and twist, it does work but will usually cause damage to the hose.
The potential for consequential damage to the rad fitting, makes it an even less desirable method.

I think I found the culprit in my case today after trying to refill the cooling system,
Attachment 10771Attachment 10771

Glad you found it, I don't see it. What do you have to replace?


I got my rad yanked out today. man that was tough and tight.

Those tools helped break loose the hoses from the rad, bought a set for $28.

Now to find a rad shop in town to fix it.....:?: or verify the leak :cnfsd:

Plan to take the hoses to the O'Reilies up the street and see of I can get a close enough match.
Guy told me they have about 500 in the back I can try to match up to. yay for me.

soooooo,
rad is back in no leaks, went in much faster then expected. :lol: Used the pressure testers for 20 mins no leaks, well after I retightened the clamps, I got rid of the old style ones and replaced with the screw type (starting to think that was the original problem) the rad shop welded 2 cracks on the side of the rad that he found (insert pic here), he said it would have been leaking much more then I told him.....

Then I drove twice to operating temp.(which is just less than half way on my temp gauge) and still no coolant drops falling.

tomorrow shall be the hour long drive on the highway out of town for work :silvervan:. We will see if I did a decent job.

I am carrying a gallon of distilled water just in case. :thmbup: