Front axle boots disconnected and exposed & CV axle rebuild

Front axle boots are disconnected and exposed. I'm taking that's not normal. The story on this 4X4 was the last owner never used it and didn't know anything about it. For example I was out on a test drive and put it in 4X4, it worked, but I didn't have a clue how to get it out of 4X4 and nether did the owner! We had to drive it gingerly back to his place in 4X4. After reading up on the owner's manual I figured out how to take it out of 4x4. Any ways I'm betting that the 4x4 in this is either in good shape or needs very little.

Any idea how to fix the boots right and you think I need to do anything else? Clean them up the best I can? Looks like the boots get twisted back on? I haven't a clue on this.

Driver's side

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Passenger's side

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Having exposed CV joints isn't good. The boots are there to keep the grease in and the dirt out. Yours look like they have been exposed for a long time. If it were mine I'd pull the axles out then disassemble and wash the parts really good in solvent. After that I'd inspect them. If the moving parts inside the joints still look good I'd pack new grease in them and replace the boots. When doing this it's a really good idea to keep all mating parts together. Pay careful attention to the way things were oriented and put them back exactly the same way.

You can get replacement "rebuilt" axles at most auto parts stores on the cheap, but in my experience I'd rather have a high mileage Toyota axle with new boots than one of those. The boot kit for the 4wd van is Toyota #04438-28021 (old number) or 04438-28022 (new number). This kit includes enough boots, grease, and clamps and will do one axle (you'll need 2 kits to do them both). I pulled one of these kits off my shelf so you can see what's inside. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...n/IMG_1853.jpg

2x on rebuilding the toyota ones yourself, since its the 4x4 front axles, they probably didn't actually run much in that state, the grease should have stuck to the parts keeping em from rusting, but even if not, i would imagine you can clean em up with a wire wheel, then repack, check the "bell" (the big side of the boot clamps there) when ya have em apart, thats what gets messed up and it will have grooves forming inside of it, fun tech note, thats why cv joints pop and click when ya go around a corner when they are bad, its the balls / rollers getting stuck in that grove and then popping out over and over.

OK I got these kits today. I agree, the last thing I want is something that doesn't have the longevity of the original parts. I'd much rather clean things up and rebuild it. The parts were $120.24 plus tax for both sides. I won't have it till Monday.

If there's a thread to read up on doing this, please advise. I'll take a look at the factory repair manual and see what it states. They just call these "Boot Kits".

The job is dirty and a bit time consuming (if you're thorough). It's not a hard job & it's pretty straight forward to remove the front axles. If I was going in for this job I'd probably repack wheel bearings and put the roller bearings inside the steering knuckle (per the service bulletin......link below). Go to 87 factory service manual & start on page FA-62.

Here's a thread that deals with the service bulletin (mentioned above): http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...nocking-in-4wd

Here's a thread with just all around good information for somebody about to dive into a job like this: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...74-Wheel-noise

Don't let all the information and parts intimidate you, just get in there and get her done :wnk:. I like the Toyota boot clamps........they go on nice & secure without the need for any special tools. Take some pics and post them for the next guy :thmbup:. Tim

it looks like thats the non sliding joint, still easy to do, just a little harder then the inboard joints, also they make a cv tool that looks like a plastic fork sorta that makes it a bit easier to pop the center carrier up to get the balls out.. still really easy, and we are here if ya need any help....

Started working on this today. I was thinking the pdf repair manual was going to tell me which grease goes where, but that doesn't happen. Two, I guess different types of grease each came in the boot kit. The pic is below. Looks like one type looks like quality grease (clear tube). The other seems kinda runny (white tube). I'm a bit lost at which goes where, or if it even matters. Which brings the next question. If it doesn't matter which goes where, why even have two types of grease?

BTW, I'm following the 1000 page repair manual in pdf. I'm following directions from FA-62 to FA-68, Adobe pg 548-554. I think even the website "toyavan" is using this manual. The steps can be from the link of "Front Axle and Suspension" at Toyavan.

Attachment 640

I'm basically finished at the tearing it down phase. Still got a little cleaning to do. Then start to rebuild everything. As always, any and all help is greatly appreciated.


Also I got pics on the phases I'm doing. I'll post them after I'm finished with the whole thing. I can reveal one oddity though! The manual tells you to remove the dust deflector, FA-64 step 7, or pg 550. Flip to the next page and they're telling you to put the dust deflector on!!! :roflmao: Wait......... I just took this off!!!

Yeah, I wish they would state which goes where. Look at the grease from each boot and compare color / consistency. Sometimes the smell of a grease will help determine which type goes were. If all else fails, if the volumes of the tubes are different, put the larger quantity in the larger boot, smaller in the small. Even if you get them mixed up it doesn't matter much. the main thing is to get the dirty grease out and clean grease back in. If memory serves, last time I did this job the grease in both inner and outer was the same, so I only used the grease that was most similar to what was in the boots. One tube was enough to do both. For CV joints I like the runny stuff best. Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by User1

The manual tells you to remove the dust deflector, FA-64 step 7, or pg 550. Flip to the next page and they're telling you to put the dust deflector on!!! :roflmao: Wait......... I just took this off!!!

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OK this wasn't really that odd. It just seemed that way. One step tells you to take it off. Only to put it back on the next would seem weird, but that's not what happens. They really neglected the little issue of cleaning everything up!

Looks like the grease that's in the clear tube, which I think is better quality, looks like it goes to the Inboard Joint Tulip. The runnier stuff goes to the Outboard Joint. This I figured out by matching up the color of the greases. Both tubes are pretty much the same size. I need to get some snap ring pliers tomorrow. I managed to get the snap rings off in my redneck way, but I don't have a way to put one on.

Anyone has any suggestions on pliers for this?

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Looks like all the auto parts stores have those pliers where the rings have those little loops to connect to. Such as,

Attachment 642

There's four rings to install. I plan on contacting the dealers and ask them what I am to do. I even need to buy two of the rings that should have been included in the "kit" I bought.

This is from page 4 of the 2nd thread I linked you to above:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

There are probably other ways to get it on, but I'd highly recommend a special pair of pliers for this. Here's a picture of a nice/expensive pair, but I think you could probably find a cheap pair someplace that would get the job done.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...s/IMG_1518.jpg

You can do this without jacking and removing the wheel. Just pull the locking hub and get-er-dun :thmbup:. Tim

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

This is from page 4 of the 2nd thread I linked you to above:

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...are you sure this isn't an artifact from the gynecology museum?? :)

I never felt this delirious on a job I haven't finished or know if I did it right! I'm feeling like I can quite now and this job will have been done correctly!!!!

I ended up finding the tool I needed to install the snap rings without having to spend the proverbial "arm" or "leg"!!! The tool cost me $20 and was available at NAPA.

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I got the last one they had. NAPA part number 2534. Looks like it will work just fine. The tip is made like this....

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The NAPA dude said this is called "Ducky Bill pliers". I told him I was never this happy to give my money to NAPA and I didn't care what you call them! :LOL2:
Something I can actually put in my toolbox without crying about it. LOL Different story with Toyota. 4 gaskets and 2 snap rings and $17 more for the complete "kit"! :pissed:

Some pics on the repair I followed in the manual listed below. One thing I didn't do and may be a good idea to do is mark your left and right axles. The manual never mentions to do this. While I'm at it, mark your parts WELL.


I'm following the 1000 page repair manual in pdf. I'm following directions from FA-62 to FA-68, Adobe pg 548-554. I think even the website "toyavan" is using this manual. The steps can be from the link of "Front Axle and Suspension" at Toyavan.

First of all my hat goes off to Tim and the other admins here. They do a remarkable job photo documenting the step in a process. I was thinking mine is going to be "killer", but man it's just not that easy!


This part is tricky at getting back together, so take some time and document how it came apart,

Attachment 647

The removal of the axle is pretty straight forward. Just remember to raise the hub to make taking the axle out easier. Here it's already out.

Attachment 648

Get yourself the lock ring pliers mentioned above before you start taking things apart. You're going to need it when installing things, so get it before. Here's my Redneck remover that was not going to work for installing.

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One of the axles ready to be taken apart. REMEMBER, get LOTS of useless rags cause you're going to need them.

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One of the axles yet from being cleaned.

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These are two bolts that go on the end of the axles. One on each end. I like to spruce up my lock washers and make them useful for intended purposes.

Attachment 652

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This is the dust deflector referenced in post #7 above. It looks weird in the manual cause you are taking it off then putting it back on on the next step. It does make sense after you do it cause you are spending alot of time cleaning up. And do spend the time cleaning up cause it's the best time for it.

Attachment 654

Everything has been cleaned up and ready to go back together here. The grease in the clear tube goes into the hub assembly here. That's ALL the grease.

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Ready to be put back on to the van. The only thing is I don't have a clue which is drivers side and which is passenger side.

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Another thing I like doing while things are apart is repairs. These things had cracks in them and were kinda flimsy. It's amazing what hot glue can do! That and quite a bit of cleaning!

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The pliers in action. The job is pretty much finished here. Like I said, make sure you get the hub cover (first pic) on correctly by documenting it when it came apart.

Attachment 659

One thing I forgot to mention and that is extra parts that you may have thought it would be in the "Boot kit". You need two more C rings or "snap rings". Two gaskets, one on each side for the cover. I bought the gaskets for the Hub Body, but the original one were on there really good. They were hard to get off and in good shape so I left the original gaskets on the assembly.

I hope this was useful to you and I wish you the best.

This has got to be one of my least favorite jobs on the van. It's not all that difficult but the grease, grime and filth just never end. Nice job :thmbup:. You hung in there and kicked ass! Thanks for the pictures and documentation. Tim

Thanks Tim. I'm hoping I never have to take those axles apart again! :no:

One thing I forgot to mention and that is extra parts that you may have thought it would be in the "Boot kit". You need two more C rings or "snap rings". Two gaskets, one on each side for the cover. I bought the gaskets for the Hub Body, but the original one were on there really good. They were hard to get off and in good shape so I left the original gaskets on the assembly.

I hope this was useful to you and I wish you the best.[/QUOTE]


Recently I started to experience alot of vibrations when I accelerate. No vibration when just coasting. I got under the van and noticed the passenger CV axle has alot of play much more than drivers side. Whether this is the source of vibration I'm not sure but seems like it needs replacing anyway so I'll start there.

I already ordered the rebuilt CV axles on Rock auto my question is other than these special pliers is there anything else that I need to be prepared for doing this job. I see mention of snap rings and gaskets. Can I not just reuse what is currently installed?

I'm trying to remove the passenger side cv axle. I have everything removed but can't get either ball joint to come lose to swing the hub assembly out of the way enough to pull the axle out. I could be doing this very wrong. If anyone has some advice and wants to help please let me know.

IIRC - pull the 4wd hub, remove the axle nut, unbolt axle at diff, hold your nose at just the right angle and you should be able to slide the axle out.

Been a few years since I was last in there, so I don't remember if you need to pull anything else out of your way, about the only thing that may cause issue is the sway bar, but there is certainly no need to split ball joints.
BB
PS. just checked the manual.
Remove 4wd hub, remove snap ring, remove the 6 bolts at the side gear (diff), jack up lower arm, slide axle out.
It really is that simple.

Thanks. I'll give it a try today and let you know.