Opinions sought about using a trunk-mounted bike rack on a 1987 Toyota Van LE

I'm so frustrated. I want to get an ebike but finding a trunk bike rack that will hold the weight of an ebike is dicey. It would be so much easier if I could get a hitch installed, even if I no longer had the spare tire. Has anyone ever gotten a hitch made for their Toyota Van? I've asked at several places and only gotten "no's."

Any advice?

Also has anyone successfully transported an ebike with a trunk rack? I am getting an ebike that weighs 43 lbs so not much heavier than a regular bike. I now carry a 38 lb bike with a trunk rack with no problems.

I've built and put on hitches multiple times. Here's a link to a thread where I show a few ways to do it:

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...php?659-towing

A metal fabrication/welding shop would likely have no issues doing something similar to what I've done. Tim

geez Tim. You save the day again. I’ll definitely pursue this. 🙏. Altho does the hitch affect the spare tire placement?

I did find a trunk bike rack that’s rated to 55 lbs for a single bike now too which might be ok (and a lot easier.) I’ve been carrying a 38 lb bike with a trunk rack so far with no issues and the new bike will be 44lbs. I still worry as I’ve read about rear windows breaking on vehicles with too much weight.

Tim- can’t talk you into building me the hitch over
the winter? 😜. I always trust you the most!!

After calling a few metal shops they all are unwilling to make hitches due to liability. I’ll keep looking but that’s what I ran into before.

well a few more calls and I’ve found a couple of places that will consider it altho they need to see the vehicle obviously. Pricey tho. $850-$1500. 😱. Might still have to try the trunk rack that’s rated to 55 lbs first.

i always hesitate to invest too much money since one accident means all money is down the toilet as it’s impossible to insure these beasts for their true value…😔

When I do metal fabrication I work slow and methodic (emphasis on slow). This is one reason I don't do it for customers. The other reason is hitch installations are something I opted out of in my shopkeeper's insurance (there's a significant price increase for shops that do that type of work). Building a hitch usually takes me all day but I would think a professional metal fabricator could do it in 2 or 3 hours.

I would probably try Offroad Toy Outfitters in Vancouver or maybe Drew's fabrication in Kelso.

A 2wd van may be a bit "lowly" compared to some of the other jobs they do, but print some pics from that hitch thread I linked you to and that might give them some ideas. And yes, my spare tire still fit like normal on every hitch I've built (so it's possible). Tim

Thank you again! I'll give them a call. Knowing it shouldn't take all that long and I can still have the spare tire is great to know! I will definitely print out the pages you linked as well...

I just have to say, I so much appreciate you always taking the time to offer your considerable knowledge! It's certainly of great value...:thmbup:

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Maybe for inspiration... I know we have a different style of hitch over here.... But it is just two plates of heavy steel cut out, mounted directly on the frame rails, and a bit of rectangular tube in between. It is also connected to the rings on the bumper, but I can't imagine that adds much. It does not interfere with the spare wheel. It did interfere with one of the exhaust hangers, but that was easy to fix.

thank you!! Good ideas to show a welder! 👍

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Originally Posted by Jan-Willem

It is also connected to the rings on the bumper, but I can't imagine that adds much.

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Lol, based on the rust holes on your bumper, I would tend to agree :lol:. Good design though, if not for the rust weakened bumper, that appears to be a nice strong hitch. Tim

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Hehe, yes, I have since I took that picture, rectified that situation. I still need to do the front bumper though, both constantly sprinkle my driveway with rust flakes.

I really value all the knowledge on this forum so I'd like to ask for some opinions regarding using a trunk bike rack on my van now that I have an ebike which weighs about 15 lbs more than my standard bike.

I've hauled my standard bike for years on my van without any problems. I'm very careful to have it extremely tight and stable with no bouncing around, and never worried about it. However with the purchase of an ebike, which is weighing approximately 50-53 lbs, I've been looking into getting a custom hitch made. The disappointing part is they are pretty dang expensive - at least $1000 so far, is what I've been quoted. I'm still looking tho, but it's going to be pretty expensive no matter what, I'm guessing.

On the other hand, I found a single bike, trunk bike rack that's rated at 55 lbs max for $79 on Amazon, that gets good ratings. But I'm still fearful of trying to haul that much weight on the back of my van. I've read some horror stories about bike racks breaking the back window and for these old vehicles, I think I'd have a very difficult time finding a new back window, not to mention that expense.

So wondering what folks think about trying the trunk rack versus getting the custom hitch. I know the hitch style is likely the safest, but if the trunk rack is rated for my ebike weight, shouldn't it be safe enough? All opinions welcome for this rather clueless old gal...:wnk:

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Looking to get a hitch for my 1987 Van wagon and came across this which actually shows in stock. Has anyone ever installed and actually used one of these? I have seen them on the net in the past but never found one available.

i am completely ignorant about what tongue weight actually means as well. It says it’s only 150 lbs for this hitch. Would that be adequate for a bike rack and bike if not over 150 lbs then? Thanks for any answers or suggestions/opinions…🙏

https://www.hitchwarehouse.com/Curt-...a-11643/11643/

That's a class I bumper mounted hitch (no receiver tube). Although it states it's rated for the load, how would you attach a bike rack? Don't hitch mounted bike racks require a class II or class III receiver type hitch? If somebody makes a bike rack that will mount to this, then it should work. Perhaps you could have a fabricator make an adapter and/or weld a class II or class III receiver to it (like I did below)

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...ps4e96da1b.jpg

FYI, that was a class I hitch but I cut-off the end of the ball mount, then welded a class II receiver tube to the bottom. That allowed me to switch ball mounts and/or use hitch mounted accessories.

If you do something like that, just don't ever exceed the rating of the original class I hitch. Tim

PS: I merged your other threads into this one to help reduce clutter. :)

Thanks again Tim. I think you’ve done just about everything anyone has ever wondered about with these vans! 🤷rofl♂️😜. No wonder you know so much.

So when you welded the receiver hitch to that mount were you limited to the 150 lbs as well? (Am I even understanding tongue weight correctly?)

I’ll probably end up just spending the dollars to get a regular hitch fabricated. Seems the safest altho I am sure I’ll never be hauling more than a bike rack, myself.

i’d still gladly pay you the thousand to help me with this because I trust your knowledge and judgement so much. I don’t need it done until March either. But I totally understand if that’s not something you want. Still waiting on a quote from Drews too.

Geez, I wish they made these vans in newer models for North America. I saw a Honda version of these vans the other day. That was a new one on me. Right hand drive tho too.

Tongue weight is how much vertical force you can put on the ball. On a class I hitch, the ball position is fixed. If you cut down the ball mount bar and weld on a receiver tube, unless the centerline of vertical force remains the same (front to back) the weight rating will change. If the centerline of the vertical load is placed further back from the original ball location, the amount of weight you can carry will be less. So if you go this route, before you cut down the ball mount bar, document the original ball position so you can mathematically calculate the new tongue weight (if the new centerline of vertical load falls in a different position).

I'd love to help you with this, but I've become way too busy with the business. My weekends are spent trying to get caught-up on about 5 years of neglected projects (some have been on the back burner for over 10 years). :doh:. I'm not complaining because it's better than being bored. Good luck! Tim

you’re just too good at everything!!! 🤷rofl♂️. If you ever do retire I’ll be waiting…🙏😃

Just haveta say thanks for always taking to time to reply to my likely sometimes annoying questions tho too. You’re a gem to this community, for sure…❤️

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jaders

Looking to get a hitch for my 1987 Van wagon and came across this which actually shows in stock. Has anyone ever installed and actually used one of these? I have seen them on the net in the past but never found one available.

i am completely ignorant about what tongue weight actually means as well. It says it’s only 150 lbs for this hitch. Would that be adequate for a bike rack and bike if not over 150 lbs then? Thanks for any answers or suggestions/opinions…🙏

https://www.hitchwarehouse.com/Curt-...a-11643/11643/

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I've have one that's on my '87 when I bought it. Only get one if you're only going to caring 1 very light bike. Anything heavier causes the bumper and hitch to flex up and down way too much for my comfort