need LA van help!

having sudden really hard start problem (last 2 mornings, then fine all day). in LA, not from LA, need to leave LA. Please get in touch with any mechanic recommendations or if you are a van person who needs a little work. I'm worried my 87 2wd automatic is dying, but I also know it has a lot of life in it. Posted a more detailed message at toyota van people, so I keep this brief. I think it's a fuel pump/EFI issue, but mechanics have told me in past that a cylinder is dying. I don't think this sudden issue would be a result of a dead cylinder (plus it drives the same as always, just idles rough).

Bryan
727 512 7276

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Originally Posted by beubanks

having sudden really hard start problem (last 2 mornings, then fine all day). in LA, not from LA, need to leave LA. Please get in touch with any mechanic recommendations or if you are a van person who needs a little work. I'm worried my 87 2wd automatic is dying, but I also know it has a lot of life in it. Posted a more detailed message at toyota van people, so I keep this brief. I think it's a fuel pump/EFI issue, but mechanics have told me in past that a cylinder is dying. I don't think this sudden issue would be a result of a dead cylinder (plus it drives the same as always, just idles rough).

Bryan
727 512 7276

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since my other post hasn't shown up yet on vanpeople I'm going to elaborate here a bit since I'm a bit desperate....I need to drive this fella back across the country soon...:)

changed starter 3 days ago.
2 mornings ago the van would barely start, but not a starter issue, just really couldn't get fuel, chugging, coughing. Simultaneously the 'check engine" light came on solid and hasn't left. Tried to reset it, no avail. The van has never started with difficulty but has done this 2 days in row now and I suspect the same tomorrow, and I've never seen this light on. It's just on solid, and sorry, but I haven't checked the codes as I'm a little sketched by reading some posts that after doing that the van was really dead. I'm still moving, so I'd like to keep it that way. Could this be an ECU issue (saw that in some posts), or just fuses/relays for the EFI system? I didn't crunch any wires or anything while installing new starter, but this did occur the day after I did that work so I'm suspicious.

any help/thoughts appreciated. I've been looking over threads and there are many similar threads but none mentioning a totally solid check engine light. I'm happy to see that most of them were fixed. I just don't have a lot of time or a way to really work on this guy down here. Thanks.

You absolutely need to check codes. It's not hard. Go here to learn how, then go here to learn what your van's code(s) mean, and then report back what you found.

Gwen

When you get it to start if you hold the gas does it run? and how does it run? There is a way to check the fuel pump. There is a yellow plug near the Mass Air Flow sensor that you can check to see if the fuel pump is working. You may also have a hole in the black air intake hose. I would inspect that to make sure its not leaking because that can cause starting and running issues. Check all the fuses as well.

got codes 11 and 4


when I start it, it fires right up, then sputters and dies... takes a routine of giving it gas at certain points to keep it going to get it started. isn't a very good system and undoubtedly doing harm. Once running, it has poor acceleration for just a few moments, then everything is normal (or as normal as this van gets).


codes point to water temp sensor and switch signal. looking at the switch signal diagnosis a fusible link shows up that was a bit scruffed when I changed the starter the other day. the AM2 fuse lost its cover and the body of the fuse seemed a little crushed but the fuse seemed fine. This was the only anomaly during the starter install.

I'm going to search forum for these codes.

thanks.

are there any mechanics or persons in SF Bay area that can work on these vans?

I'm guessing from diagnosis that I need a new temp sensor, cold start timing switch, and TPS. I seriously doubt that these have ever been replaced on this van (it's at 264k now).

I need to order these parts and I think I can make it up to SF (where I need to be Sunday for work) and I"m there for a week (or a bit longer if needed). I don't have too many tools with me, and don't want to start messing with old bolts and being really screwed (no pun intended) so I'd rather be in a spot where I can work for a bit, and preferably hire someone who knows their stuff a bit better.

Please send any info my way. I really appreciate it.


b

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...Codes-4-and-11

If you do wind up needing a mechanic in LA I'd recommend Pinky's. They treated me well when I was passing through LA and they are comfortable working on the vans. I'm in SF and have tools but don't have any experience dealing with the type of issue you're having. Let me know if you need a hand.

Make sure that the Water Temp Sensor is connected. Maybe while you were working on the van it got disconnected, or maybe the connections may not be that great. (Corrosion)etc.

thanks for info everyone. reducto, I might hit you up in SF, but I'm going to try to swap these out tomorrow.

I got a duralast TPS (made in Italy) and duralast temp sensor.. not the best but affordable.

I think the wires are likely corroded, and I did check the connections.

I have a question about removing the sensors as these things are probably original. Is there a chance of them breaking? Is there any treatment I can give the night before around the bolt to help it release?

Since I was the one who started the thread above about codes 4 and 11 ill share my experience. I had an aftermarket water temp sensor installed for some time which worked fine for a while btw (atleast 4 years) when the check engine light decided to come on. Before I realized that my connection was too corroded stripped and done for I had already ordered a new Water Temp sensor from Toyota for a whopping $130.00 I went to the junkyard and got the connection from another van and rewired it to mine. Good as new. My TPS was not connected properly and bam problem was solved. I would attribute most of the running rough and stalling to the Water Temp Sensor. If they are not connected properly or they have gone bad the van will run rough.


When removing your old one as long as you use the right socket nothing will break. You can get an aftermarket one from the store and try it out. I remember when I got an aftermarket one, the plastic connector was different so I had to remove the square connection piece from the connector and wire the connectors into the odd plastic piece temp sensor. I undid this process years later when I decided to get the right one from Toyota.

Got the new temp sensors installed. Notice some improvements.
Bit of trouble with the TPS though. Have seen different methods of changing this out (tim's vid) someone also said they did this without removing the throttle body. Care to elaborate ? I removed seat but couldn't see how to get tools back there. Not a lot of space to work (parked on street). If there is a way to remove TPS without removing much else I'd be happy.

It might have been me that you read,

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someone also said they did this without removing the throttle body.

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-If it was my post you are referring to, I think I said that next time I would try to do it with the throttle body in. The seat definitely got in the way anyhow. I think the throttle body was only 4 bolts and not too hard to get out with a socket extension(except that stingy gasket material that was a huge pain). Once out though you can clean the throttle body really good-which your van will appreciate after 260,000+ miles.
-aaron

ok thanks...I'm going to try to replace the throttle body this week before heading out east again. Van ran great coming up from LA to SF yesterday and is idling so much better with new temp sensor. I think the throttle body sensor and timing adjustment will really right this van.

Does anyone know what size the hoses are (the small ones on top) on the throttle body? Mine are pretty cracked and old and should probably be replaced when I do this? Is there any fluid that comes out of any of the hoses attached to the throttle body I should be aware of or replace afterwards? and... one more thing... should I replace the gasket as well....(part #...?)?

b

The small hoses carry engine coolant to your throttle body to prevent it from freezing-up in the winter. They are 8mm (5/16") inside diameter. A couple of them need to make some sharp corners so I recommend going with the genuine Toyota formed hoses (straight hose might kink on you). To my knowledge all of these formed hoses are still available through Toyota. Here's a thread that shows break-down and factory part numbers: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...=2052#post2052

In that thread I recommend using Gates bulk hose for the straight ones, but if you're after the best, Toyota's straight hoses work better than Gates. IMO Gates is arguably a better hose but the problem comes with wall thickness. Gates is a bit bulkier so the factory clamps don't work. I used to think the stainless screw type clamps were better but I've learned that over time they are more likely to leak. The big advantage with the factory spring clamps is they "self adjust" as the hose ages & they rarely leak. For this reason I've gone back to factory clamps. The longest piece of 8mm straight hose you can get from Toyota is about 8". It's Toyota part #99556-10200 and costs around $5.

If (and that's a big if) you can remove the throttle body without damaging the gasket then I wouldn't hesitate to re-use it. Unfortunately that gasket usually sticks hard and gets destroyed on removal. Then there's clean-up. This gasket can be a PITA to remove. I usually remove the stud and use my die grinder with a 2" Scotch Brite disc. If you don't have that then a razor blade and some elbow grease will be required. The throttle body gasket is Toyota part #22271-73011. Toyota will want around $5 for it but I suspect you could get aftermarket at most auto parts stores for less $$$. Tim