Oil Pan Removal and Re-installation

Any tips or tricks to know? It is on an '85 Toyota Van. Do I need to use sealant?

You should get a tube of FIPG (Form In Place Gasket). Here's a link to my blog entry where I'm installing a pan: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ebuild-part-12

Any problems with just using a felpro gasket instead of the sealant? I need to change out a dented pan with the engine in the van and don't know if I could get a good bead with the open end down.

I bought a bunch of 4y cork oil pan gaskets several years ago. I got them because I had a hard time trusting FIPG alone and wanted to be prepared. However, when I get into the "engine assembling frame of mind" I always revert back to the Toyota way (FIPG only). I've never actually had a pan off a van with the engine still installed, so I can't say for certain which way I'd go. I would probably rehearse ahead of time by holding the pan up to the block. If I thought I could do the final install without messing up the FIPG, then I'd apply it to the pan, then install. If however it was a PITA to get the pan to the right place (without dragging the seal surface), I'd probably use the pre-cut gasket. Good luck with whatever you decide. Tim

I replaced my oil pan with the engine in situ, being that your's is a 2WD, I would think it would be a walk in the park to swap out, by comparison.
I used FIPG and was happy with the results, didn't have any significant issues getting the pan back into place.

Personally, I have no love of cork gaskets.
They are far too easy to over-tighten and they not fond of excessive heat.
BB
PS - I put the FIPG on the pan, before getting it anywhere near the vehicle, it has a long tack time, not at all like typical silicone sealants.

This is probably a dumb question, but does anything need to be moved to get the oil pan out? or will it slide out once bolts are off ? Might be doing this in my driveway.

Not a dumb question at all.

Always a good idea to drain the oil first.:wnk:

Not sure if 85 has the oil level sensor but if it does, you'll want to pull it prior to dropping the pan, saves buying a new sensor.

The rest should be straight forward.
BB

When you are putting your oil pan on do you use the FIPG sealant as well as a gasket? Or one or the other?

I use an FIPG. Keep in mind there is no pressure there... you just need to seal it. I guess I would use a gasket if I got one in a set... but normally I wouldn't waste a trip into town to pick one up.

-Jim

Nicce i already have a gasket but in the manual it said to use fipg and didnt mention a gasket so i was a little confused

just wondering if anyone has had to replace the oil pan on their van because of rust? my tech says it could rupture causing total loss of oil and quick destruction of motor. he said it is common on ford pick-up trucks. the pan is brown and rusty looking with a coating of oil. the level on dipstick is good and i notice no leaks on my garage floor. although the van was raised in montana, it's spent the last 16 years here in wisconsin but only driven in winter for a couple/three years and not at all in the past ten. might this tech, whom i've not known very long, be trying to sell me a repair i don't really need. all opinions welcome. thanks.

Yes, i have this problem also, and mine is pretty rusted at the moment but I have a used one which I refinished and powdercoated. Will put that on soon. Strange that most of the rust is there..

thanks for your response. i will proceed with the replacement.

Not uncommon at all, at least in the rust belt.
That was one of the first repairs I did. post purchase.
I went OEM, as used was not an option.
Make sure you remove the level sensor before trying to pull the pan

In my experience, if there is flaky rust present and you scrape off some of the flakes and find dampness(oil) under the flakes, it needs replacing ASAP.
Generally speaking, dry surface rust doesn't pose a problem.
Shampooing is usually the first rule in locating leaks.
BB

thanks Burntboot. so the the oil level sensor is removed from the exterior of the pan?

That is correct sir.
Pull the sender (4 bolts IIRC) and remember to get new gaskets for it.

mr Burntboot: any idea about where to get the oil level sensor gasket(s)? do you have a part # perhaps? thanks.

found that part #: 90430-27001

Just wondering how big a job it is to replace the oil pan gasket.

The FSM goes into some pretty good clarity on the oil pan.
HERE!

Your welcome! :thmbup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Burntboot

I replaced my oil pan with the engine in situ, being that your's is a 2WD, I would think it would be a walk in the park to swap out, by comparison.
I used FIPG and was happy with the results, didn't have any significant issues getting the pan back into place.

Personally, I have no love of cork gaskets.
They are far too easy to over-tighten and they not fond of excessive heat.
BB
PS - I put the FIPG on the pan, before getting it anywhere near the vehicle, it has a long tack time, not at all like typical silicone sealants.

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I attempted this yesterday and could not fully remove the oil pan because of the oil pump. Just a heads up to others! Not sure if it’s an ‘89 thing, the height my engine is at, or what, but what a wonderful surprise lol

Yo!


Don’t be afraid to use your jack on the engine. Lift the engine up a few inches and it will give way to the pan.

Also don’t forget the frame stiffeners.

yooo! that's a great tip. In an exhausted panic I did the FIPG upside-down on the engine then reattached the pan...horrible time, lots of cursing, and not too confident in the longevity of that seal. I'll have to try it again with this knowledge.

One shouldn't be able to "just lift the engine a couple of inches"

Now if you undo the mounts you can get an inch +/-, but you have to be careful.
Its easy to crush things (above/around the engine) with that method, also the potential for stretching/stressing hoses and wiring.

Toyotavantech: Noooo you can’t lift the engine too much

DIY mechanics: hahah jack go Uga Duga

Well, I didn't say you COULDN'T, just that you shouldn't.

If ya did and the engine moved that much, you may want to get some engine mounts ordered up.
If they're in good nic, the engine should only move a fraction of inch before the chassis starts moving with it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Diy2k

Toyotavantech: Noooo you can’t lift the engine too much

DIY mechanics: hahah jack go Uga Duga

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Lol, and then professional mechanic go: hahah kaching kaching

Greetings to all.

Found a very bad oil leak coming from by oil pan. It was only coming out of the back left corner, the corner that is below the oil filter drivers side. Well you would thing this would be a walk in the park but........... the one12mm bolt that is in that corner where the leak is is positioned very close to the body frame where a socket wrench cannot be put on to tighten. Anybody have a tip on how to do this or do I have to lift the engine out, :pissed: nope, not me.

Here is a picture of the bolt

MT - been awhile since I crawled under but IIRC, the frame rail shouldn't be that close to the engine.
Is it possible that its the transmission stiffener plate, that is in your way?

Hey buddy, I am not sure what a stiffer plate looks like. I will have to get under there again to look but if memory serves me well it is a big chunk of metal and not sheet metal.

Will advisve

mt

They are cast iron brackets that bolt onto the bottom of the block, just above the oil pan.
The other end attaches to the lower section of the bell housing.( like a 45 degree brace)
They are often in the way, but easy enough to re&re.

Yep, that is what they are for sure.

What do you mean by saying "easy enough to re&re?"

That's a new one for me

MT

Sorry, old shorthand.

re&re = Remove and Replace

Oh crap, am I slow or what:yes:

Thanks buddy, will keep you posted

MT

Hey Burnboot:

OK, well I did not have to take off the that piece but you were spot on. I was able to get around it to see the leak was coming from the oil filter housing where it mounts on to the block.Coming right out of the bolt there. I cannot seem to find anyone who even knows what this gasket/O ring is. There is nothing on the site about it. So I guess I will have to take it out and see what it is and punt. If you know anything about it let me know.

Thanks again for all the help.

MT

Like this?


ToyotaVanYR29LVYR29LV-PRBEKEngine, fuel system and toolsOil filter
Oil filter for Van YR29LV

	Here are parts you've selected: No PNC# (SUB) OEM part number Required per car Production period Name Applicability Please order in advance In stock 01 15691 15691-71010 01 08.1988 - 12.1989 GASKET, OIL FILTER 4YEC..YR2#,3# 4.91 USD (SUBS) 15691-71011 01 4.91 to 5.15 USD 02 15691 15691-71011 01 12.1989 - 01.1990 GASKET, OIL FILTER 4YEC..YR2#,3# 4.91 to 5.15 USD More than 1 spare part found. Please define it more accurately before ordering.

Click on the part subgroup below to get genuine part numbers.

hmmm, pic didnt come with :(
Attachment 11388

That seemed to work tho

That's it!!

So it is a gasket and not an o ring.

Looks like I will have to go to Toyota and get it.

Thanks. will keep you posted

MT

Hey Burnboot:

Well this gasket is nowhere to be found. Toyota cannot even give me a clue on when they can have one. My only idea is to make one. Have any thoughts on this? I check the site for this and found nothing. I will at least post a new message to the group to see if anyone has any idea how to solve this.

Again, thanks for your help on this issue

MT

At this point, it may only be available as part of a set (lower engine set maybe??), if at all.

That gasket is very simple and I would not hesitate to make a new one.
As long as you use proper gasket material (most parts stores will carry something) you should be fine.

Cheers