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Re: Code 14
Well its been running fine all morning, no stumbling or anything. Idle has been a little lopey, but other than that its been good. Up until now. It just died on me at a stoplight and it wont start.
Cranks all day but wouldn't start. Threw a code 14 again. Let it sit for awhile, tried again, and no luck. I adjusted the disributor some in case it was my timing or something, but it still wouldn't start. By then though the battery was pretty low and I forgot to throw in my portable jump starter, so it wouldn't start and I had to get it towed home. Goodbye $90 :drunk:
Edit: Back at home, after sitting for awhile, I went to try to push the van into a better spot so that I can work on it easier. After pushing it as best I could, I decided to try to start it. Of course, now it fires right up! :pissed::wall:
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Re: Code 14
It's running fine in the driveway now... I did have a code 43 pop up (starter circuit), but I think that was from my starter getting hot trying to start it when I was on the side of the road. One of the last times, I tried to start it there, I noticed that it didn't really crank that last time, kind of like the starter was tired or not enough juice. I've had some problems with this starter in the past, like the solenoid gets stuck on it from time to time.
I cleared the codes 14 and 43 and let it run in the driveway for about 10 minutes at various rpms and at idle. No codes have shown up yet. Seems like it only throws the 14 when it dies. I'm starting to lean towards the ECU now. The book gives me a test to do at the ecu when there's a code 14, but the test says to do it at idle and when I have a code 14, it won't even start. Once it starts, the code 14 doesn't show up again until the vehicle dies. I'm not sure if it's worth it to try the voltage test on the ecu now or not. :cnfsd:
I guess I'll go figure out how to get to my ECU
Well, I tried to follow the steps for testing the ecu if you have code 14 but it doesn't really make sense. The trouble is supposedly no voltage between IGT and E1 at idle (that's what throws the code 14) but now that the van is started and not throwing code 14, of course the voltage is fine right there.... I'll see if I can scan the page and post it.
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Re: Code 14
FWIW, I remember reading on a van forum, don't even remember which one, where someone was having similar issues and they found that one of the connections to the ecu was corroded and once they re-soldered it they were good to go. And I think there was someone else that ended up changing out the ecu and had success. I guess the easiest solution would be if you knew another van owner living nearby that would let you borrow their ecu to see if that solved anything. All I know is I hope I don't run into the same problem. It sounds extremely frustrating. :wall: I'm feeling for you. Hope you get it figured out soon.
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Re: Code 14
Yes, I do remember reading that at one time. Unfortunately I don't know of any other vans in the area, heck even the junkyards here don't have any vans. :lol: Looks like I can get an ecu for $80ish, so I might do that.
I guess I might tear down my crank pulley while I wait for it to come in
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Re: Code 14
fwiw it has been confirmed by myself and others that brand new OEM ignition coils test low on the primary side (around .8ohms) and by the specs in the book should be deemed unfit for use. I also tested several oem coils at the wrecking yard and got the same results. I don't know the reason for this but thought it might be worth a mention.
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Re: Code 14
Oh and check out car-part.com for the best deal. I assumed yours is a california model and found one near Sacramento for $40.00 I'm sure the Federal model will come up with more results.
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Re: Code 14
Thanks NEC, that's good to know.
I picked up my napa ignition coil since I had to pay for it before they ordered it. I'll keep it on hand for now, since I can return it as long as I don't install it.
I'm tired of trying to fix at least two problems at once, so today I'm pulling the crank pulley off to see if it's a problem with the pulley itself or if the keyway is messed up. Either way, I guess I need to find a new one.
My van isn't a CA model, so the ECU # is 89661-28081 It looks like there are plenty of options on car-part.com for around $80, but I'm going to hold off until I see what I find with the crank pulley.
I got it all the way torn down except for pulling the actual pulley, since I need to go rent the tool to pull it. I used the starter trick to get the bolt off :)
DISCLAIMER! - Try this at your own risk, it's not the manual's way of pulling it.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeJDDJSAczY
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Re: Code 14
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Re: Code 14
Question....Should I buy a brand new pulley ($$$$) or try a jyard one?:cnfsd:
Does anyone know where the timing mark on the pulley should be in relation to the keyway?
The mark on the left of this pic (by my thumb) is the timing mark I made when I tried to find TDC, and the mark on the right is where the original mark is on the pulley.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...4-54_483-1.jpg
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Re: Code 14
That's awesome that it's just the pulley. Not sure about your timing mark question, but I'd go find a good used pulley to put back on there. Maybe the car-part.com site can find one. If Toyota still has these I'm guessing they'll want a small fortune for one. Tim
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Re: Code 14
Yeah, toyotapartszone wants about $180, napa doesn't have anything, and autozone wants about $150
I'll use car-parts.com and find one. I'll take pics when I get it to show where the marks are in relation to the keyway.
I got tired of trying to track down two problems, so I figure if I fix this, I can at least rule the timing out before moving onto the ecu.
Also, my next job is close by so driving my 89 f250 won't be too bad, so it gives me a little more time to deal with the van. Before, all my jobs were farther away, so driving that thing at 8mpg was killing me
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Re: Code 14
Well, I guess it's time for an update. LOL :LOL2: It's only been over 5 months (time really flies sometimes). Got super busy with work right after the van went down and worked almost everyday for 3 months and then work just died off, but was still super busy with the kids and trying to scrounge up work. $$ kept getting diverted to my old ford work truck and my wife's tacoma to keep them running and keep us functioning. Anyways, finally starting to get caught up and was able to afford and order the parts for the van.
As suspected, the timing mark on my old pulley had shifted way over! Here are some pics of the new one and the old one.
New pulley (notice the position of the timing mark compared to the keyway)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...-10-29_155.jpg
Old pulley (harder to see the mark, but it's shifted about 3" to the right)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...-11-36_248.jpg
Wish I would have figured this out way sooner than I did. :LOL2:
Installed the new seal and pulley
(strap wrench worked great)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...-29-44_757.jpg
Got everything else back together, found TDC, and fired her up (actually the battery was of course dead, so I had to jump start it). Had a hell of a time getting the timing set due to a faulty cheap timing gun. :wall: Once I got a working timing gun, I got it timed correctly. Right now, it seems to be running pretty good. I have a really iffy looking front tire, so I only ventured out around the block once. I have a charger on the battery right now and I will get her a new tire tomorrow, and get her out for a test drive.
I had her idling quite a bit today and she never stumbled or wanted to stall, so I am hoping that I have solved this problem. I am not going to count my chickens yet though. We shall see how the next couple of days go, once I get her out on some real roads and the highway. Either way, it sure was nice to drive her again.
