Reworking 4wd radiator

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on this radiator/fan set up. It would be GREAT to get some feedback before spending a bunch of money.

As I see it, the actual cost of this modification is around $300. The total cost is around $800 but I'm subtracting out the cost going the recore route: Maybe $500.

I like the AFCO 80107N radiator because:
It not a super cheap one. There are 2" thick ones on ebay for $125. I would be paying an extra $220 for a 3" thick radiator that appears in the picture to be higher quality.
1 1/4" in and outlets. I would need to snake the lower hose across.

I like the Flex a lite fans because:
More cfm for less than the single fan AFCO set up. If one burns out, maybe the other might get you home. I was planing on using the flex a lite controller, maybe its better to be consistent with the electrical modification. Its a little cheaper than the AFCO fan (part #80107NFAN)

The total cost of the set up will be around $800. Thats less than I've spent on my other vans stock radiator. I've had to recore twice (bad luck probably) and fix a tank leak and its still a 30+ year old radiator. I have also had to pull the radiator 3 times for these repairs. I will have to make custom brackets to support the new radiator but fortunately I can do that myself, that would increase the cost for someone who needed to farm that work out.

A couple other things involved:
The van has a 5/16" diameter return(?) line. I was planning to fabricate a 5/16" nipple on a piece of 1 1/4", and splice that into the return line.
The flex a lite fan set up is designed to run for 25 seconds after shut down. If that is not enough to prevent heat soak, maybe it could be wired to battery +, instead of ignition +. In that case, the fans on/off would be governed by the programmed shut off temperature. Depending on the water temperature, maybe they would run longer and help with heat soak?

This a lot of money and work! Any critique would be MUCH appreciated!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F390967312535

if youre gonna spend that much, maybe consider this one, i believe this is the one member vanco used on his turbo rig..you can search for the thread..i think it just needed some.necking down of the spigots and he mentions the factory shroud could probably be adapted...

Thanks for the response!

The AFCO is a 3" thick radiator, that Griffin is 2". I'm hoping that a 3" would have improved cooling ability.

When I bought the Griffin radiator I saw that AFCO too. I chose the Griffin because it had a better chance of fitting. It fits nice and I'm glad I went with it. Particularly because the bottom hose nipple is on the correct side. As far as cooling goes, it's great. 100+ temps fully loaded on the freeway is no problem.

The small hose you referred to may be an air purge hose? I plugged mine. With it plugged I just spent extra time getting the air out of the system. It's been fine for a year now.

I have run a few electric fan setups on the factory radiator(single 14, single 10, dual 10, shrouds and no shrouds), but none have been as good as the factory fan and shroud. I'm currently fabricating an angled shroud to fit a flex a lite syclone 16" 2,500 cfm electric. If it doesn't work I'll run the factory fan and shroud. The turbo adds a lot more stress to the cooling system.

Thanks for sharing your modification experience, Vanco. I'm going run my experiment. Its going to be a 3" thick radiator with two 8" shrouded fans, 1600cfm. We will see it the extra 1" makes much difference. I'll cap off the small return line like you did.

The stock cooling system on my other van works great (after a complete rebuild). I just want a new radiator that won't leak and a fan to fight the heat soak issue. I'm hoping to get similar cooling ability, a more reliable radiator and fans to clear the engine compartment of excessive heat after shout down.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wavegobbler

Thanks for sharing your modification experience, Vanco. I'm going run my experiment. Its going to be a 3" thick radiator with two 8" shrouded fans, 1600cfm. We will see it the extra 1" makes much difference. I'll cap off the small return line like you did.

The stock cooling system on my other van works great (after a complete rebuild). I just want a new radiator that won't leak and a fan to fight the heat soak issue. I'm hoping to get similar cooling ability, a more reliable radiator and fans to clear the engine compartment of excessive heat after shout down.

---

Plus there is a noticable power difference running an electric fan.

Quote:

---

I'm currently fabricating an angled shroud to fit a flex a lite syclone 16" 2,500 cfm electric. If it doesn't work I'll run the factory fan and shroud. The turbo adds a lot more stress to the cooling system.

---

I was mentioning (on another thread) doing just that with the stock shroud and ether a Flex-a-lite 118 or a Derale 17" 2 speed 16917 ( at 16-7/8 OD it fits right in) but with a draw of around 20 amps Tim suggested I upgrade the alternator.
Vanco, with your turbo rig I suspect you already did, right? And what do you mean by "an angled shroud"? tilted like the 2wd radiator?
Keep us informed your stuff is really inspiring!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Carbonized

I was mentioning (on another thread) doing just that with the stock shroud and ether a Flex-a-lite 118 or a Derale 17" 2 speed 16917 ( at 16-7/8 OD it fits right in) but with a draw of around 20 amps Tim suggested I upgrade the alternator.
Vanco, with your turbo rig I suspect you already did, right? And what do you mean by "an angled shroud"? tilted like the 2wd radiator?
Keep us informed your stuff is really inspiring!

---

I upgraded to a GM CS130D, it peaks around 105 amps. I chose this style because it is easily upgraded to the high output 145 amp GM AD244. Plus they are $18 a piece at my local pick and pull, and there are tons of them. I run a 4 guage cable from the alternator to a 150 amp fuse to the battery.

For the fan, I spent some time trying to make the factory shroud work with a bigger electric fan, and there just wasn't enough room. I'm making a shroud that is close to the bottom of the radiator, and angles back toward the motor on top. This will allow the bigger electric fan, and pull all the air through the radiator. With the fan basically blowing down, I'm not sure if that will be bad for venting the engine compartment. I guess I'll see. I was thinking of running a 10 inch fan that just vents the engine compartment that comes on with the cooling fan.

Quote:

---

I was thinking of running a 10 inch fan that just vents the engine compartment that comes on with the cooling fan.

---

For that I was thinking of using an inline extracting fan, they are used in the bilges of power boats to clear out any flammable gases before firing the engine, they are sealed, explosion proof, usually fairly high volume for the size and can be installed remotely anywhere under the van and flex ducted. Run that a few minute after shut down against heat soak or like you are thinking, in tandem with the fan if you have enough electrical power.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....aL._SY450_.jpg
it's not 1000's of cfm but if the target is the hot air bubble seating at the top of the engine it may do.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wavegobbler

Thanks for sharing your modification experience, Vanco. I'm going run my experiment. Its going to be a 3" thick radiator with two 8" shrouded fans, 1600cfm. We will see it the extra 1" makes much difference. I'll cap off the small return line like you did.

The stock cooling system on my other van works great (after a complete rebuild). I just want a new radiator that won't leak and a fan to fight the heat soak issue. I'm hoping to get similar cooling ability, a more reliable radiator and fans to clear the engine compartment of excessive heat after shout down.

---

According to the descriptions, both radiators have two, one inch cores. The AFCO radiator has a core height of 18" and width of 12.5". The Griffin is 18" x 13". The core area is what cools the fluid. The two radiators are nearly the same. In fact, I measured my end tanks and they are three inches.

Also, I really don't think that 1,600 cfm is enough to keep it cool in extremes. Just my opinion based on my experience, in response to your request for critique.

Thanks for the input, Vanco. Its interesting that the Griffin radiator is 3" wide, sounds like both Griffen and AFCO radiators have the same specs. Maybe Flex-a-lite designed a good schroud to maximize their 8" fans? I'm going to have to back out of the modification if I can't get results similar to the stock set up. The van getting the AFCO is a 4x4 manual, my current rig is a 4x4 automatic. The automatic's temperature limitations, on my rig, are all about the transmission. It heats up way before the engine. All my offroad trips involve stops to let the transmission chill, in spite of after-market modifications.

Carbonized marine bilge blower idea seems like a good one. I've been thinking about removing the air conditioning components in the compartment under the passenger seat and trying to fit a blower and possibly a second battery there. Its opposite the fuel rail but at least theres some space.

That fan setup may work, I'm not certain (I would like to try it myself, if it wasn't for the price). The shroud design makes a huge difference.

Since the van radiator doesn't get a lot of flow at highway speeds you may want to consider some of the air flow upgrades that have been discussed, in addition to the radiator and fan.

I have removed all AC components. I moved my primary battery to the passenger seat compartment (so that I could make an airbox where the battery originally went). It fits nice, but I didn't allow for anything else going in there when I designed it. Plus with the modifications for the 30" tires there isn't as much space anyway.

With the AC compressor removed there is a lot of room on that side if the engine bay. I was thinking of mounting a fan or bilge fan there and possibly using ducting.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wavegobbler

Thanks for sharing your modification experience, Vanco. I'm going run my experiment. Its going to be a 3" thick radiator with two 8" shrouded fans, 1600cfm. We will see it the extra 1" makes much difference. I'll cap off the small return line like you did.

The stock cooling system on my other van works great (after a complete rebuild). I just want a new radiator that won't leak and a fan to fight the heat soak issue. I'm hoping to get similar cooling ability, a more reliable radiator and fans to clear the engine compartment of excessive heat after shout down.

---

Looking forward to seeing your results. Thanks for posting.

I finally got around to fabricating a fan shroud for my 2,500 CFM 16" Flex A Lite electric fan to fit my Griffin radiator.

Here is the summarized parts list for the entire radiator and fan project:

Radiator: Griffin 2-26185-H
Upper radiator hose: Dayco/Hose (Upper) Item# 81061
Lower radiator hose: Gates 25532
Fan: Flex-A-Lite Syclone 398 2,500 CFM
Gauge: CSR Digital Temperature Gauges/Controllers 1225 (love it)
Aluminum: various
Body seam sealer: Dynatron Seam Sealer

Installed Griffin radiator (after two years):

Attachment 6639

Here is the completed shroud:

Attachment 6640

Attachment 6641

Attachment 6642

Installed:

Attachment 6643

Attachment 6644

CSR gauge and fan controller:

Attachment 6645

Attachment 6646

I will be the first to admit it isn't pretty, but it sure does flow some CFM's through the radiator.

To make the radiator fit I reworked the existing lower mounts. Not a lot of fabrication here. For the top mount I welded a mounting tab to the radiator. The hose outlet is bigger for the lower hose. To make it work I got a hose that fit the larger radiator port and adapted the hose to the engine (smaller) port. To do this I used a 3 inch long piece of radiator hose that was the correct size for the engine port, and slid the larger hose over it and clamped it down. It has held up fine for over two years. Oh, and I just capped the return/bypass hose that goes from the radiator cap area to the radiator. I have had no issues in doing that.

For the shroud I started with an aluminum frame. I framed out the rectangle for the radiator, and I framed out the circle for the fan. I then mounted the rectangle to the radiator using welded aluminum tabs. With it mounted I was able to get an idea of where the circle frame needed to be for clearance. Once I determined that, I used aluminum bar to connect the rectangle frame to the circle frame in the position it needed to be. With the frame complete I basically skinned it with .020 aluminum sheet. I used rivets to attach the sheet to the frame. There were some gaps and such that I filled with body seam sealer.

This is a very brief overview. If you have questions just let me know.

wavegobbler, im very interested in your dual 8" fan setup. keep me posted on the process and how its working (and if the CFM's keep it cool enough). I have a newly re-cored stock 4wd radiator and im dying to get an electric fan setup that works. I've been talking with VanCo and his setup is awesome but he also has big cooling demands due to the turbo. im hoping the integrated shroud on the fan you linked will also save me some major artistic exertion (& time) expressed by VanCo :LOL2:

VanCo thats pretty awesome, you have a sweet rig! that radiator fits nicely in there and i like that it has the mounts for a shroud and/or fan set up. seems like an easy install...

you ran this radiator pre and post turbo correct? didnt this radiator work fine with no shroud and factory fan normally aspirated?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by boogieman

you ran this radiator pre and post turbo correct? didnt this radiator work fine with no shroud and factory fan normally aspirated?

---

Yeah, I ran this radiator and the stock fan without a shroud NA for a few months in the summer. It worked fine, but I had the factory shroud laying around and decided to adapt it.

To make the factory shroud work with the factory fan and Griffin radiator you need too trim a bit of the shroud, drill some holes, and adapt some L brackets.

I have never, turbo or NA, had any issues with cooling running the Griffin radiator with the stock fan and stock shroud.

I made the switch to electric for a few reasons. I like the free horsepower, I like that the engine speed doesn't tank when shifting (better for boost and hills), it sounds much better, I can keep much more precise control of the temperature, and I like to do things differently.

That is Very cool, VanCo! Its good to know that a 16" fan can fit. It looks to me like that fan would be Much more effective than the two eights (beyond just the cfm rating). The two eights both have mini fan blades/ large motors. That thing is like a windmill in comparison. Epic modification! I will check in when the AFCO radiator and Flex-a-lite fan shroud set up has been product tested.

:thmbup::thmbup::thmbup::thmbup: awesome work. Thanks to these pics, I have the answer to one of my question: can a big electric fan be centered to the radiator therefore optimizing air flow over the whole core area and still fit under the center hump between the seats?
I wonder how many CFM is the clutch fan pulling? Can't be anywhere close to 2500; Right?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Carbonized

I wonder how many CFM is the clutch fan pulling? Can't be anywhere close to 2500; Right?

---

It's my understanding that when fully engaged clutch fans similar to the vans can pull 5000 plus CFM. Not sure if you have had the van super hot at 2500 rpm with the seat up and felt how much air is moved, but it's a lot.

Since the engine moves under load the stock shroud doesn't have a tight tolerance around the fan. This causes an inefficiency. Hence the overkill on the CFM. That's also why it is super important to have a good shroud with an electric fan. To make up for the lower CFM by being more efficient.

So far this radiator, shroud, and fan combo is better than any combo I've tried. Once the fan turns on at 198 it turns off at 190 within 8 seconds (switch set to 195). It will then take about 5 minutes for the fan to come back on. That's idling in a 70 degree garage (40 outside not a good test temp). The summer will be the ultimate test.

This is all based on my research and experience. If I'm wrong on anything, please correct me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by VanCo

It's my understanding that when fully engaged clutch fans similar to the vans can pull 5000 plus CFM. Not sure if you have had the van super hot at 2500 rpm with the seat up and felt how much air is moved, but it's a lot.

Since the engine moves under load the stock shroud doesn't have a tight tolerance around the fan. This causes an inefficiency. Hence the overkill on the CFM. That's also why it is super important to have a good shroud with an electric fan. To make up for the lower CFM by being more efficient.

So far this radiator, shroud, and fan combo is better than any combo I've tried. Once the fan turns on at 198 it turns off at 190 within 8 seconds (switch set to 195). It will then take about 5 minutes for the fan to come back on. That's idling in a 70 degree garage (40 outside not a good test temp). The summer will be the ultimate test.

This is all based on my research and experience. If I'm wrong on anything, please correct me.

---

Vanco, all what you just said sounds correct (based on years of experience in the automotive industry). I have yet to see an electric fan able to move more air than a fully engaged clutch fan @ high engine RPM's (would draw too many amps and rob too much power). Efficiency can be dialed in though and the big advantage is they can run @ full output while engine is at rest. It will be interesting to hear how it does in the summer, please keep us in the loop. Tim

I was reading this http://www8.basf.us//PLASTICSWEB/dis...01a5e180004891 trying to convince myself to go electric. Mind bending! The importance of the shroud, how crucial is "tip leak" to fan efficiency, the hub size, the blades shape and ratio, horse power vs blade width etc... everything is in there about fans and shrouds! If you dont mind a bit of science :wnk:. It is like candy to me.
VanCo, according to this paper, your set up should be a big improvement on the mechanical system in term of efficiency, it is hard to believe that our 14-1/2" fan with a hub of 6-1/2" stubby 4" long blades (5 only), 1" gap around the tips, could beat it, even a 2500 RPM .

Size and pitch of the blades + RPM determines how much cfm. Blades on electric are small in comparison. It would take a huge electric motor to spin a stock engine driven fan blade @ 3,000 rpm. Electric does have advantages though and modern ones are pretty effective for what they do vs amps they pull.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by timsrv

It would take a huge electric motor to spin a stock engine driven fan blade @ 3,000 rpm.

---

I agree.

It has been proven (dyno testing) that mechanical fans can use up to 30 engine horsepower to spin. I am guessing (butt dyno) that the van's mechanical fan uses around 10 horsepower. My 16" electric has a motor rated at 12 volts and 17 amps. That calculates to .3 (generous) horsepower.

They are both doing the same job, moving air (yes there are a number of aerodynamic, and thermodynamic properties involved). For simplicity, if one is using 10 horsepower and the other .3, even factoring in gross inefficiencies you would have to conclude that the one drawing 33 times the horsepower is providing more airflow.

This power difference is why it is important to make an electric fan as efficient as possible (much more efficient than the mechanical fan) in addition to flowing a high CFM of air.

Another plus for electric set up, particularly Tim's, is the easier access to the front of the engine for belt change, tensioners adjustment, leak check etc...., also the combo shroud/fan has to be a piece of cake to remove/ install VS. the 2 pcs shroud + fan + clutch. No?

Yeah, you get much better access to the front of the engine when running an electric fan. I have run fans close to the radiator and now shrouded a bit away and all combinations give improved access over the factory set up. All have been easier to remove too.

Also a benefit, you do gain a couple MPG's going to electric.

With all the benefits, if my newest setup can't cool properly on a grade, in heat, fully loaded, I'm going back to the stock fan.

Quote:

---

Also a benefit, you do gain a couple MPG's going to electric.

---

Anther not negligible selling point

Quote:

---

With all the benefits, if my newest setup can't cool properly on a grade, in heat, fully loaded, I'm going back to the stock fan.

---

I hear you. I don't know anybody else here, beside Tim with his admittedly over loaded rig, who has truly put to the test as many different set ups . Or though with a turbo and no intercooler you are setting the bar pretty high :lol:. Then if it works well for you, it should be easy-peasy on our NA motors :LOL2:

I have had great results with my electric fans/custom stainless steel fan shroud.
But it's VERY important to make sure that all other parts of your cooling system are in good working order.
I had the following replaced: HG, the famous "Yuba City Ability Radiator" high efficiency re-core, new coolant overflow head (coolant fill) and hose, hose of death and custom aluminum HOD outlet plate...

Again, super-special thanks to Timsrv for all his knowledge and input on this (see link below).
This may be old news for some, but for newer members here is a link to my electric fan mod:

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/i...quote_icon.png Originally Posted by mistershmi http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/i...post-right.png
<trestlehed, did you ever get an electric fan set up and dialed in?>


Yes! It's all set-up as written in this thread. One key thing to remember is that the success of my mod
was founded on the 4 row high efficiency recore from Yuba City, CA. Then add the dual electric cooling fans, a custom stainless steel radiator shroud, adjustable relays and... Xanadu! (I prefer the Exit Stage Left double live album version). :lol:

If you cheap-out/cut corners on any part of the cooling system, prepare for disappointment.

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...nd-thermostats

2nd fan location:
I need to add a fan for additional cooling when off road.
No issues on the road, loaded, uphills.
Up hills in 4wd, going slow, causes the temp to rise and only drop very slowly once flat.

I don't have space in front to cover the entire radiator, so where would be the most effective location for a small elect fan? Inlet side? Outlet side? Center? High? Low?

Radiator fans are more efficient as puller than pushers according to manufacturers. Most of them recommend the fan to be installed on the "engine side" I do not know how the fan is setup on the diesel engine but here is a pictures of an assist fan between the clutch fan and rad.

Attachment 6656

Hope that help

Regarding the picture above, I should point out this fan does very little in the way of "assisting". It works very well as an engine bay ventilator (prevents heat soak issues). I have it set on a "count-down" timer to run 15 minutes after the van is shut-off. I have tried running it on hot days when I get stuck in heavy traffic (low engine rpm) with my AC on. Unfortunately, in that situation the van still gets too hot (both fans together don't do enough). The only way to keep the van at a reasonable temp is to either shut off the AC or put the van in neutral and hold engine rpm @ ~ 2,500 (when stopped or coasting). If/when I do that the factory clutch fan effectively brings the temp down (moves a lot of air), but that electric fan (mounted in that way) will not. BTW, I do not run this set-up without a shroud (just had it off for the picture). I use an OE shroud and it fits inside nicely. Tim

Following up on my 16" electric fan and shroud install. I went on a camping trip to the San Rafael Swell in the Utah desert recently. The trip is about 350 miles round trip, with a lot of up and down canyon driving. The temp was in the low 80's. I had about 1k pounds of people and gear. 65 to 80mph speeds.

The fan did well, as well as it can really. It isn't exactly up to my standard though. It didn't get any hotter than the factory fan, but I feel like it will when it gets hotter. It may be fine in a naturally aspirated van.

The issue is air flow at speed. Electric fans count on air flow through the radiator at high speeds. This minimizes the fan cycling while on the freeway and such. This fan ran nearly constantly at high speed. That means any increase in ambient temperature, there will be an increase in engine temp.

To get the fan to stop running at its max, I need more air flow through the radiator. I plan to make a sheet metal tunnel from the front grill slots, to the radiator. I think I will also make a scoop under the bumper. I would just make a scoop by the radiator, but I'm thinking when the van breaks wind (tee hee) it creates too much turbulence to effectively scoop air.

The AFCO Scirocco radiator and Flex-A-Lite Sirocco 365 fans/schroud fit in the Van. I removed a bracket, upper passenger side, front, that was in the way. All air conditioning parts are also removed. There is around 3/4" clearance around the radiator on all sides. The lower hose seems ok but having the port on the correct side would be nice.

I haven't done any real product testing. This project van still has a ways to go. I will give more details about the mounting brackets if it works well.

Some initial observations:
The fans are Loud, and seem powerful. They aggressively pin a dollar bill to the front of the radiator.
I wired the Fans to the battery instead of the ignition, they run for around 12 minutes after the car is shout off. The thermostat controlling the fan on/off is in the fill neck, the port in front of the radiator cap.
The original clutch fan can still fit. Maybe, in an electric fan failure, I could limp home with it. The electric fan blades pop off easily leaving some access for the clutch fan. I think the clutch fan will fit in the spare tire with a little blade grinding.

Very nice :thmbup:

Just something that came to my attention when you mentioned 12 minutes running after shut down. would it be worthwhile to have an accessory electric pump running the fluid thru the engine and radiator as well? After all, the fans are only cooling static fluid in the radiator, and it take a much longer time to cool the fluid around the probe at the filler neck. I see on the pictures that you kept the originale size alternator, what size batterie are you running? How many Amps are the fans drawing?
Just picking brains up before diving into my own project :whistle:

And yes very nice bracketry work! Clean!

It sure looks like changing an alternator would be a whole lot easier.

Lol, that was my concern too. Just a good rule of thumb for anybody running electric fans to upgrade the alternator. If you have a factory Denso or Denso rebuilt (actually rebuilt by Denso), then I would consider it barely adequate. I would never recommend running one of those elcheapo rebuilds or "lifetime" rebuilds sold at the discount auto parts stores as they will not hold up. Performing the Delco-Remy CS-144 alternator upgrade would be a good idea........especially if those fans pull more than 8 amps. Tim

PS: It doesn't have to be a fancy custom alternator like mine, just find one with the similar housing in a junk yard and use that. That alternator was popular on the older GM products. If you pull one from a junk yard, probably a good idea to put new brushes in it. Tim

Researching the Flex A Lite website for a 16" fan I came about this nugget:

"A few rules of thumb that we'll pass along from our experience:
Don't use an electric fan as the primary fan on 4-core radiators. It overworks the fan to try to draw air through these extremely restrictive radiators."

It reminded me of this old timer at my radiator shop telling me : It's all about air flow through. Under highway or racing condition (high airflow) 4 row are ok, in the city or off-road (low airflow) not so good. That's why they stopped using 4rows core in cooling challenged vehicles like the van long ago.
Anyway plowing along in my project of "single shrouded electric fan on 4WD radiator" . I just got another 4WD radiator to use as a prop in my 2WD. I'm ordering the Flex A Lite 398 16"Syclone and related control bits, I will upgrade the alternator to the Delco-Remy CS144, wire the fan to the batterie so it keep running after shut down to prevent heat soak, and I want to run a aux. electric water pump (only after shut down) to keep running coolant through the radiator while the fan is running. I will need some help for this part as I am a bit of a "sparky" when it come to electrical. Any idea on what pump and how to plumb and wire it ? Not decided on a temp gage or alarms yet.

I personally would not consider an electric water pump to be worth the effort. You would only get circulation through the block while the thermostat was open anyhow. If you rigged one up to your heater hose, it could be made to circulate after, but the heat lever would need to be left in the "hot" position for it to work (unless you have rigged up an external heater core like THIS). Tim

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by timsrv

I have it set on a "count-down" timer to run 15 minutes after the van is shut-off.

---

This is starting to interest me greatly now that temps are averaging above the 80s. I notice a huge temperature gain in the cabin after I let the van sit after driving.