Behind the alternator, tucked in by the engine mount.
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Behind the alternator, tucked in by the engine mount.
I used the search feature and found this:
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...Reservoir-Leak
Thank you both - I went through a ton of threads and missed that photo.Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
No problem. I had an advantage since I posted it (I knew it was there)......I could also remember some key words (like "brass" and "extension"). Those two coupled with "block drain" narrowed it down to just 2 threads :wnk:. Tim
Lots of great info here... I just wish I'd read it all first.
A month or so back, when making preparations to do a complete coolant line refresh, I went to RockAuto.com and punched in my search for the appropriate thermostat and gaskets. (1988 4WD Manual)
Of course, NOW I'm reading all of this about the OEM parts and regret my purchase.
Now I'm ready to replace the old TStat and upon opening the box and inspecting the new one, I find it doesn't have a jiggle Valve at all. :wall:
So.. do I take a chance? Or do I order it all again from Toyota?
here's the link to the particular TStat I ordered. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...279818&jsn=388
Opinions?
Anyone installed an aftermarket TStat manufactured without a jiggle valve to any success??
I know the original article (( https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...n-s-thermostat )) was from 9 years ago and wondered if anything would have changed since then.
IMO i'd only use OEM since it's still available and cheap and it's specifically built to get your vans cooling system running right. but since you already bought one you can try it and see how it runs. the install is a PITA but only takes an hour or two max - so you can always swap out later if the temp isn't running within the optimal zone. other consideration is if you want to risk your van running too hot or how far from civilization you typically drive. on second thought after typing all this out - i'd just buy the proper thermostat and be done with it
Just. Buy. OEM.
If you can't afford to eat the cost of that aftermarket t-stat and wait a for the proper OEM one to arrive, you're really really really not going to be able to handle the cost of a head job plus how long that puts your van out of commission.
Gwen
Totally agree Gwen.Quote:
Originally Posted by llamavan
Small price to pay to put Crusty back on the stands. After just replacing all the coolant lines, water pump and coupling, valve cover and such. I’ll happily get the OEM TStat to finish it up proper rather than take a chance.
Thanks for the guidance and patience. It’s much appreciated.
A
The diagnostic proved true. (Upon cranking the van- coolant was immediately circulating) So it seems the TStat was stuck open. That’s exactly what I found when I pulled out the old one.
The only bad thing is the lower right stud on the TStat housing unscrewed from the block and came out with the nut when removing it.
I didn’t drain the block, so there’s still some coolant inside dampening the threaded stud receiver. Because of not being able to clean out the coolant where the stud gets screwed back in, I didn’t bother putting threadlock back on the stud. Instead I just screwed it back in to hold the housing and TStat in place overnight.
Now I’m not exactly sure what to do to lock in that stud when I finish up tomorrow.
At this point I wouldn't worry about that stud.
Nuts often weld themselves onto studs. the proper way to deal with it is to separate the 2 when they are out and reinstall the stud, then secure it with the nut.
Installing studs is usually done with a double nut and thread locker isn't usually required.
The way you have done it should work just fine, the only time one would have to worry is if the new gasket were significantly thinner than the old (if the stud shaft were to bottom out prior to the nut flange making contact)
Best practices would say do it right, but as you've already "got 'er done" just make a mental note for next time.
And if I read that wrong and it isn't fully assembled yet, then extract the frozen nut, clean up threads (block and stud) and reinstall stud (double nutted) and torque to spec, then remove the double nuts and proceed as normal.
Thanks for the input- I got everything back together without any thread lock. The bolt sealed itself when torqued down and it's been running like a champ ever since. Appreciate all the help in getting this project done!Quote:
Originally Posted by Burntboot
Just a little FYI. Any time I remove a nut from a bolt or stud I put a little bit of anti seize compound on the threads to help in the removal of the nut down the road. Nothing worse then a nut that gets frozen. If it gets stuck on a bolt and you break the bolt it can be replaced but break a stud SOB. Also if you wanted to use loctite to reinstall that stud just get a can of brake cleaner and spray it on the inside threads. It will clean the slime of the A/Freeze off and it dries super fast leaving a clean and dry surface for the loctite to work like it should.
FWIW, brother-in-law (professional mechanic) and I replaced my '88 2WD 5spd's thermostat several weeks ago. The next day I drove her close to 200 miles in Florida heat without any problems whatsoever. New thermostat is OEM; I always buy Toyota when it's available.
Anybody ever notice that the Tstat housing has a slight turn to it?Here is a pic of the turn.
Service manual says nothing as to which way it goes in.
Does it matter?
MT
That's so it won't interfere with the alternator adjustment bracket. If you try to install it with the alternator already installed, it will be obvious which way it needs to be. Tim
Roger that. It was on backward then. OMG, it is amazing this little 4Y ran as good as it did with wrong torque values on the head and manifold.
Thanks, just waiting for the next shoe to drop:dizzy:
MT
So, my van overheated. Blew the radiator hose off near where the lower radiator hose goes into the radiator. Going through the checks to see if it is something besides the headgasket. New thermostat, new water pump, new fan clutch, new radiator cap within the last two years. Anyways, I pulled off the thermostat and tested it and it does pop open. I'm going to put it back in place but I have a question. I'm wondering if you have to use a gasket for the thermostat and for the thermostat housing. I did both before but I don't see it in the instructions.
Do I need to use this (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...79728&jsn=1032) water outlet gasket along with the thermostat seal?
If the water outlet gasket is needed as well, I'd suggest adding it to the instructions.
Thanks!
No need to use a gasket other than the rubber gasket on the t-stat itself, and Toyota does not call out for another one in the EPC, either. The number given on Rock Auto (1634171010) is the number for the "water inlet" (t-stat housing) itself (!).
Gwen
Thanks Gwen, I wonder if that could cause an overheating issue if I used both and the paper one deteriorated (the housing one). There wasn’t really a leak though. Hmm, ok good to know. Thanks for the info. Will install with just the OEM gasket for the thermostat.
Are most of the pics in the thermostat replacement guide of the 4WD? I suspect that this is a picture of the 2WD, because I'm working on a 2WD and I think I have to remove the part circled in red here:
Attachment 9248
in order to remove the tstat housing.That hard line leading from the power steering pump is in the way on the 2WD, so I should probably... drain the PS pump and remove it to get access to the tstat? Or ought I be able to remove the housing with that line still in place?
Toyota has at least 3 different versions of that PS hose (2wd & 4wd), so there's always going to be a variable there. I still don't think you need to remove it though. If you pull the coolant recovery tank there should be enough room to access the T-Stat. Removing that PS line would be nice regarding T-stat access, but maybe not worth the mess and/or the risk of creating a leak there.
BTW, the recovery tank is removed by simply pulling up on it. It can get stuck pretty tight, but if you wiggle it back and forth while maintaining a constant upward force it will pop-off the mounting bracket. Tim
Thanks, Tim! I managed to get the thermostat housing off without any PS disassembly. There was just enough room in the elbow of the power steering line to get the bolts off, one. click. of. the. ratchet. at a time. I also discovered that I really, really need 2-inch and 4-inch extensions to go with my 3-inch extension, if I hope to get it back on.
Also, I heeded y'all's warning and bought OEM replacement parts. Check out what I found inside:
Attachment 9249
Obviously the previous owner didn't understand the importance of using... OEM zipties. :dizzy:
LOL, he obviously had more knowledge than the engineers who designed it. Hopefully there's no duct tape or bailing wire elsewhere in the system :rol:
What are the symptoms of an improperly seated thermostat? Or perhaps of a thermostat where one over-tightens the bolts and squishes the gasket? It overheats faster, now that I have replaced the PO's zip-tie themo-hack with OEM thermostat and gasket.
There is likely another issue that's causing the overheating. The PO probably wire tied the old one to keep it open. All that did was delay the inevitable. Putting a new OEM one in was the right 1st step. If you botched the replacement job it would most likely be leaking. Since it's not, then I'm guessing that part is okay. There are other threads on here to help you troubleshoot an overheating issue. I would recommend doing a search reading some of those threads. If you still have questions after doing that please post in one of those. Good luck :). Tim
Can anyone tell me about the bolt circled in this image? I was changing out the thermostat in my 86 cargo van today, and I mistakenly removed it instead of one of the nuts for the thermostat housing. Luckily I had removed the alternator, so it didn't get doused in coolant.
Did I really screw up here, or can I just tighten the bolt back down and be on my merry way?
I'm also doing the water pump and fan clutch while I'm in there.
Attachment 10123
That's an adapter plate of sorts that transitions between the timing cover and the t-stat housing. Just taking the bolt out then putting it back in shouldn't cause a problem. I would however recommend you keep an eye on it when you do your initial start-up/warm-up to make sure it's not leaking. Tim
That's a huge relief, thank you Tim. :thmbup: I also have some black Permatex gasket goop, and could pull the spacer plate and re-gasket if that's a better bet.
I don't know........I really don't like gasket goop, at least not by itself. If you mess with that plate enough to separate the gasket, then I'd recommend a thorough cleaning, new gasket, and a little bit of Toyota FIPG on each side of the new gasket. There's no guarantees, but if all you did is pull the bolt an reinstall, I find it hard to imagine that in itself would create a leak. Tim
I just tightened the bolt back down without fussing about it. The old thermostat was not the Toyota part. I replaced it with the Aisin one from rockauto, along with the Aisin water pump and fan clutch. Before, my temp gauge normally sat around half or just above and would climb on the freeway and uphill. I’d have to crank the heater to bring it back down. After finishing up the work today, the temp gauge was hanging out in the lower third for normal driving, and only climbed to just under half way cruising up a big hill near me, without the heater running.
I’m a happy camper, and hoping not to find any leaks tomorrow. I could not have done it without the help of this forum, so many thanks.
I could really use some advice on how to access the radiator drain valve on my 87 4wd.
I've been rolling in the ice and mud for the better part of two hours and cannot find this thing for the life of me. Should I need to remove the fan shroud? It does not appear to be anywhere on the bottom of the radiator...
Should I access through the passenger side wheel well? I removed the plastic in there and still can't see the plug.
Please help if you can, thank you
Here's a quote from another thread:
If the radiator has had a new core installed, some radiator shops will remove the stock drain, but they will usually replace with another type in the same location. If for some reason yours doesn't have one, you could always just pull the lower hose off the radiator. Just have a big drain pan ready and some kitty litter as it will empty very quickly and probably splash out on the floor. TimQuote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
PS: Assuming it's stock, you do not need to remove the shroud, but it will help if you remove the plastic splash guard below the drive belts. The drain plug is white plastic and is on the passenger side facing towards the back of the van. There is a little nipple below the plastic knob with a short drain tube on it. To drain just loosen the plug by hand until coolant drains from the little hose. Loosen the radiator cap so air can displace the antifreeze as it drains.
Thanks much Tim, the photos and further description are helpful as well as the backup "firehouse method" option. My guess is that this was a new core and they simply left it off.
I will give it another go here when we get another sunny day!!
Mission accomplished, so much thanks to @timsrv for the documentation. That engine block drain would have been impossible to find (let alone get an appropriately sized socket on) without the help. Thank you!