I read a thread on not to do use other then Dexron II or III...
Thank you, Tim!
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I read a thread on not to do use other then Dexron II or III...
Thank you, Tim!
Does anyone know how many quarts of ATF go in the 4speeds?
About 5, however you can never get all the old out. The torque converter traps about half of it so you'll only be able to replace about 2 - 3 quarts at a time. If it's contaminated you'll need to change multiple times (driving a bit between changes). In severe cases of contamination (like engine coolant mixed with ATF) I've actually drilled a hole in the torque converter, drained, then threaded and installed a pipe plug :wnk:. (I wouldn't recommend that for routine ATF changes).
Thanks Tim! I may have figured out a way to get all the ATF out. While draining my tranny I accidentally stripped the drain plug. So I left it off while I ran to the dealer for a replacement. A day and a half later I replaced the plug and I noticed more fluid had drained out and was all over the slab.Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
I referred to the manual which calls for 2.5 qts. It quickly became apparent 2.5 is not enough. Anyway thanks for the quick response. I'll be adding the missing 1.5qts.
Hi, I am trying to find out where the starter is? Is this hard to switch out, and what would be a good price for a new one?
Thanks
It's under the oil filter (passenger side where the engine bolts to the transmission). Here's an article that talks about starters: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/c...witch-question
Apologies if this topic has been discussed but I haven't found a ton of posts about oil filters. I did find information on where to locate it behind the passenger seat.
First off, I am mechanically incompetent and know very little about cars in general. I have owned my van for a year and gotten two oil changes so far. A few months ago I took it to Oil Can Henry's to do a cheap oil change and they didn't change the oil filter, since they claimed they couldn't access it from beneath. At the time I didn't think much of it, but I've started to get the feeling that I should switch it out myself.
I have located it and now I'm thinking of taking it out. Do I need a special tool or can I twist it off easily?
Is it imperative to drain the old oil out first?
Since this is basic Van information, I moved your post to the thread "Basic Van knowledge for new owners". If you slide the passenger seat forward and lift the carpet, you will see an access panel cover held on with one screw (reference pics 4,5,& 7 in the 1st post of this thread). The oil filter can be accessed from here, but I usually just reach up from underneath and replace it without removing this cover (I'm already down there taking the drain plug off). Whether or not you need a filter wrench will depend on how tight the old filter is. I'll usually take the wrench with me when I lay down to pull the plug, but I try to do it by hand 1st (as I don't always need the wrench). Some oil will usually come out, but it will usually be less than 1/4 cup. Whether or not there's oil still in the engine will not affect the volume that leaks out here. I try to have a wad of paper towels handy to catch any leaking oil before it drips down off the filter pedestal.
Word of warning: Before trying to install the new filter, make sure the O-ring or rubber seal from your old filter is accounted for. I'll usually reach up there and run my finger around the filter mount surface just to be sure there's no foreign material there. There have been cases where a filter installer neglected this step and the rubber seal part of the old filter was left behind. Usually this would cause a big leak and be noticed right away..........but it's possible to get a temporary seal that can blow-out at any time (probably while driving on the highway when temperatures and pressures are at their highest). If such an event occurs, the results can be catastrophic to your engine. Since OC Henry put new oil in without replacing the filter, deciding to replace oil again would be up to you. Putting new oil in without changing the filter is like putting dirty cloths back on after a shower (so it depends on just how dirty your cloths are). Since anti-drain back valves are meant to hold dirty oil inside the filter, if your old filter has one, the dirty oil left in there would have been mixed with the new oil on start-up. Probably no big deal, just not a good practice to change oil without replacing filter.
Since our filters are installed "upside down" you should be replacing with one that has an anti-drain back valve. Most quality oil filters will have that, but not all will. You can tell by looking in the open side of the filter. If you can see into the smaller holes around the big hole, then it doesn't have one. If the holes appear to be blocked by a rubber barrier, then it has it. If you have any doubts, get a factory filter from Toyota. For any van (other than an automatic 4wd) IMO the best choice of filter is Toyota #15601-33021. Not all dealerships carry this one, but they can still get it. There are several different externally sized filters that will fit on the van and many different types/sizes of filter wrenches. The wrench you choose will depend on the filter you use and how you are trying to replace (from the top or from the bottom). If you're using the 15601-33021 filter, and you're reaching up from underneath to replace, the wrench to use would be THIS ONE. If you're going down from the top, I'd probably try to use a "cap wrench" (some call it a "cup wrench") that's designed for the specific filter you're using. Using a ratchet and extension (of an appropriate length) would be advised with the cap wrench method. The size cap wrench that fits the 15601-33021 is 80 mm x 15 flute. When putting the new one on, the correct tightness is about as tight as you can go (comfortably) with hand pressure only. If you use a filter wrench to snug it down, be careful not to go too tight (or you'll regret it next time around). Tim
Thanks Tim! :)
a empty and well cleaned out dish soap bottle makes filling your brake fluid quicker and with no mess.
Hey Tim- I'm the new owner of an JDM van and have been reading as much as I can here to get more familiar with it. Enjoying all the tips and advice on the site. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I just purchased a 1989 4x4 Diesel HiAce with only 46,000 original miles. I have no documentation or history on it so I will be systematically replacing all the fluids and filters and starting fresh. In this thread you mention your goto oil filter for all vans (besides the automatic 4wd) is the Toyota #15601-33021. Well, I have an A/T 4wd diesel. The filter I have cross referenced is #90915-03006. Do you have experience with these engines and what filter would you recommend? Can I assume that many of the OEM parts on the RHD Japan Imports translate to the US vans?
Thanks-
I know nothing about diesel vans and have not personally ever worked on one. This is because Toyota never imported these to the US market. For this reason I cannot comment regarding which parts may or may not interchange. You may wish to post your question to the forum specific to diesel vans as somebody there may be able to answer.
The reason gas powered automatic 4wd vans can't use the same filter as the other gas powered vans is because they have an oil cooler that sits on the oil filter platform (kind of like a filter sandwich). This lifts the filter up making the 15601-33021 too tall. The filter originally called out for the gas powered 4wd automatics was 15600-25010 (NLA) which now crosses over to #90915-YZZD1 (and probably others). Tim
10/4 Tim. No worries. Thanks for the quick reply.
I've since found a good parts cross reference site for JDM vehicles which I shared in the Diesel forum.
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref
Trying to locate the ignition coil, any good pictures or diagrams? Thanks
It's inside the distributor.
Thanks, I'm used to my old Toyota truck that had the coil separate. I am not able to remove the 4 screws to get the ignition coil off where it's at. Do you know how many bolts hold on the distributor and if there are any issues removing it to get to the coil and then putting it back on, is it hard to get the shaft back in?Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
There are some here who have replaced the coil without removing the distributor or disturbing the timing. They usually comment on one fastener being a PITA, but are usually successful. Personally I always remove the distributor 1st, then replace the coil with the distributor held in a vice. Doing it this way it's easier to get to everything but you will need to re-align the distributor gear and reset timing. With my way I don't worry about aligning TDC. I just hand rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing in an easy to remember position (usually straight forward). Since the gears are helical, when you remove it the distributor shaft will rotate a few degrees. I just make a mental note of the approximate position after removal, then when I go to put it back in, I start there. As the distributor drops, the gears will engage and it will rotate slightly as you drop it in. Make sure it drops all the way down on the base. If it doesn't drop all the way, pull it back out and use a slot tip screwdriver to align the oil pump down inside the engine, then try again. Once it seats, make sure it's aligned the same as before you removed. If not, pull it back out and try again (you'll get the hang of it).
Once it's back in the hole, try to set it back to the same spot it was before. Next hook up a timing light, put a jumper wire into the "check engine connector", start engine and check timing. Use the service manual for more specific instruction. Here's a link to the PDF download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q4u...7wOD7nKyF/view
I am new to the forum. this thread was a great guide to me so far. I recently broke the serpentine belt.
Is there a diagram somewhere for Drive Belt Replacement? or a guide so I don't mess this up. because if anyone could mess this up it's me. thanks!
The good thing about the serpentine belt is it's obvious what pulleys it rides on (only one serpentine belt). The bad thing is it's the farthest one back. This means the other 2 belts must be removed before you can change it. Since you'll be pulling all the belts you should replace them all. 1st pull the power steering, then the AC (if still equipped), then the Serpentine (if there's anything left of it). The PS & the Alt belt will need to be worked around the fan (coming off and going back on). This can be fun with the fan shroud in the way, but is manageable. Just work it over the fan one blade at a time until it's free. When all the belts are back on tighten them a bit tighter than normal as new belts stretch. If you don't know how tight to make them it's better to stay on the loose side. If they squeal, they're too loose :dizzy:. There's actually a tensioning tool (perhaps available for rent at Autozone or equivalent). There is such a thing as too tight, and you don't want to go there. The alternator belt is easy because there's a wing nut that is tightened by hand. When doing that one, just crank the wing nut as tight as you can (without tools), then tighten the set bolts (upper and lower alternator mount bolts).
For removing the AC & PS belts you will need to loosen the idler pulleys. To do that you'll need to loosen the the set bolts in the front/center of the pulley (14 mm) then use the long threaded 12 mm bolt to loosen/tighten. After the new belts are on & tight, snug up the center "set" bolts. Have fun. Tim
PS: You might try searching the forum for more information. Here's a thread on the subject: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ernator)-belts
Awesome, it was super easy. I went ahead and just changed out all of the belts.
Started it up. there were no squealing noises until I turned on the heat/air with the controls in the back seat.
The squealing kicked in and was outrageously loud. I'm guessing this means the serpentine belt is too loose?
It's possible turning on the fan increased the load on the alternator (causing a loose alternator belt to squeal) or perhaps you inadvertently turned on the rear AC (assuming your AC system is still intact) and that belt was loose.........or perhaps the compressor is seized-up :shock:.
If it's a loose alternator belt, it should react the same way when the front fan is turned on and/or your headlights are turned on. Tim
Hi,
New to this thread. Have been lurking for a bit of time. wanted to say Thanks for the info. You guys are awesome!
this thread has been my go-to since buying my van :)
this is going to sound really dumb, but my van is missing the OEM jack, and i was wondering what the factory recommended jack points are? anyone know? whats your favorite way to jack it?
These are the factory jack points:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...psnctyf4a4.jpg
I usually use a floor jack and do the back from the differential housing. After throwing a couple of jack stands under the axle, I jack the front from the center of the cross-member under the radiator (for 2wd vans). On the 4wd vans, I usually use a jack and a block of wood under each of the factory jack points. When the height is adequate, I put tall jack stands under the sway bar bushing brackets. These brackets are round and fit nicely (and securely) in the axle sockets of the jack stands. Tim
PS: Never jack a 4wd van from the front differential.
Slider door maintenance:
Cleaning?
Best lube?
Should the floor track be clean and dry?
I get a lot of sand in mine...
I use the WD40 Silicon based lubricant on anything that squeaks or has trouble moving on my van including the sliding rollers, the tracks they sit in, front door hinges, the windows' tracks, and the hydraulics on the back hatch so they smoothly fully extend.
Hi does anyone know what type of Gas I should put in My 1985 Toyota Van Cargo 5 Speed Manual? Regular or Premium? Also does anyone know the Thread I can find help on Body work, Mine has a few dents and bends on the metal. Sliding door and Passenger door. :silvervan:
Regular Octane 87 or higher is fine. I found no benefit running 91 octane
So my van lived most in the salty Illinois area, so I'm having to deal with a lot of rust. So I need to replace those idle pulleys, but the mount for the PS one (which is the middle belt I believe) is pretty rusty and i'm scared I might bust the mount trying to get the old pulley off. Is there a part number for the mount or will I have to find a scrapped one?:cnfsd: I can always try to use the old one, but I'm trying to get rid of rusty stuff as I go. Any thoughts or directions would be much appreciated. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
:dance2:
Assuming this isn't you're only vehicle, I'd just put the brute force to it and if it breaks, then deal with it. If not then count your blessings. I suspect multiple Toyota vehicles from this era would have interchangeable parts, so if it breaks, and it's not easy to extract/replace, I'd take your busted parts to the salvage yard to compare/match-up. Tim
Here's an example of a interchangeable part-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8844035010-A...FYuR12&vxp=mtr
JDM
There you go. It might not be a bad idea to have one of those on hand before going neanderthal on the rusty bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM VANMAN
Regarding the long adjustment bolt, if you need that too, here's one http://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-Full-Thr...5UoeZr&vxp=mtr. That's pretty spendy for just a bolt, so I suspect you can do better. But it's easy to add to the cart when you check out. Tim
The article is very useful for reference :yes:
Hi -
I have a bunch of stuff under the hood dismantled, trying to address issues with the fuel injectors and power steering leaks -- I am also trying to fix anything odd that I come across while I have such good access, but my knowledge is a bit limited. Hoping someone can help me identify 2 spots:
Attachment 5282
I am assuming this is some kind of coolant temp sensor? There was nothing attached to it and it was caked full of a dried silicone type substance.
Attachment 5283
In pictures of Tim's nice clean engine these holes have bolts in them. What do these holes do?
Thanks for any guidance.
What? No bolts here in any of my engines. Not sure why these holes are here, but they serve no purpose that I know of. Here's a view of this area on my 86 van:Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDawgGottaEat
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...ps9957cd3a.jpg
That "sensor" is worthless anyhow and IMO you're better off the single wire that goes there is grounded out. It's actually a temperature switch that only activates when the coolant temperature reaches 230° F. It's talked about in the "HEAT SOAK" thread. If you find the wire that's supposed to go there, simply ground it out (perhaps a previous owner already did). Attaching that wire to a ground point will improve your van's ability to combat heat soak issues. Tim
I've owned my van for a little over 4 years and have put about 28,000 miles on it, and I recently realized I haven't even touched the transmission since I bought it, and I'm not sure when the last time the previous owner touched it either. There are no issues that I can tell with the transmission as far as how it feels or operates, and the fluid appears to be full and, while not bright pink, still is pinkish at least and doesn't appear burnt or otherwise damaged.Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
Anyways, I know I need to address this ASAP, the question is how should I go about it? I imagine a flush wouldn't be good and would probably be better off with a simple drain-and-fill. However, I don't really know what type of fluid is in there now, if it's Dex, Merc, synthetic, etc. I thought that I read somewhere here that Amsoil plays nice with other transmission fluid types, but I haven't been able to find that post again. I've also read to just "not touch it" as replacing fluid could actually grenade the transmission if the fluid was black/burnt/metallic before replacing fluid. I don't think my transmission is anywhere near that but want to be sure.
So what should you do with an otherwise normal operating automatic transmission that you don't know the history on and don't know exactly what brand/type of fluid was put in there when it was last serviced?
Whenever I get a vehicle with unknown automatic transmission service history, I start out by draining, removing the pan & checking for excessive metal flakes (there's always a little black fuzz on the magnet(s). If all looks good I replace the filter/strainer, thoroughly clean the magnets & pan, reinstall the pan w/new gasket, then service with an approved fluid. On our vans you can use Dexron III, Dex Merc, or any synthetic fluid that is compatible/friendly to mixing with those and says that it meets or exceeds the minimal requirements of the vehicle manufacturer.
I use Amsoil synthetic ATF but there are others. Tim
I bought a fuel filter for my 1985 but it did not include any washers? I think I read somewhere that the washers should be replaced when changing filter. And advice?
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
Always best to replace those washers, but they can be reused in a pinch. Just make sure to check for leaks before putting the engine cover back on. I know the OE Toyota filters come with new copper washers, but not sure about aftermarket ones. You can always buy new copper washers as they should be available at any auto parts store. Just take an old washer and/or your banjo bolt down to help them match it up. TimQuote:
Originally Posted by lamont
Thanks Tim! I think I will go to the parts store and get new ones just to be safe....would hate to have a leak and set my van on fire!