The WHAT-IS-THIS-PART and WHAT'S-THE-PART-NUMBER Thread for US Toyota Vans 1984-1989

Thank you for the information. I don't think the switch itself is bad, just the wire boot thingamajig is broken. I'm assuming it is only essential for cold starts, but now I need to know how to find the wire/boot >.> Hmm. I'm also assuming that the hose is actually supposed to be run where it is run.. which seems like a bad design to me, but the picture you posted shows it is run that way as well - so maybe I can just fab something to keep it from pinching against those switches.

It's a standard Bosch type injector connector. It doesn't need the boot, but the wires will last longer if you put some shrink tube on them or wrap with electrical tape. Here's a post where I'm using these for my injector harness. With shrink tubing on them they are protected and the wires won't break off from excessive flexing. Tim

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...2506#post12506

I have reassembled a basket case 1987 4x4 manual with cooler by shift console. There is a connector on a rather longish set of smaller gauge wires, a 10-pin connector, coming from under the carpet. I see no where to plug this. I am just about to get AC put back together. I have the repair manual, and have looked at the AC schematic. Wow very complicated! There are no wire color codes. Can anyone tell me where this plug might reach to. It is long enough I think to reach up under dash, it might reach into cooler somehow.

Thanks!

Can you post a picture for us?

Attachment 2230Attachment 2231

Here the photos. So where does this connect to please?

Next somewhat related question: the repair manual indicates in it's photo of the AC compressor at idler pulley assembly that there are a variety of washers and larger "cover" type things that go with the pulley. Since I have been unable to find a parts van to see myself what the setup is, I went ahead and ordered the pulley with the bearing from an on-line parts place. Can anyone tell me if I can just use the pulley along with a suitable washer and nut, or do I need these other spacer bits and/or can you describe to me better what I need. The adjustment idler pulley is there: it has the threaded spindle which goes up and down in the slotted bracket.

And how about the belt length needed for this. You see, I am in Mexico now and while the weather is good, by May it will be rather warm. Be great to try to get the AC going.

Thanks!

That's for the "Audio Control". Behind the shifter on the center console there was a remote control for vans equipped with OEM premium sound systems (double din AM/FM Cassette stereos). It's there so you can adjust volume and change channels easily (no leaning down while driving). If the original stereo has been replaced, then the original "Audio Control" would have become useless. They likely removed it and put something else there. If your original components are still there, you might try plugging it in to see if it still works. Tim

I recently redid the carpeting in my new 84 van DX and found 3 large plate weights bolted to the floor right behind the rear axel.
I would estimate that the 3 of them are about 50lbs each, and I'm just wondering if anyone else has found this in their vans.
Also, is it really necessary? I live in south florida, so no snow or ice to worry about. I just think my little 3Y motor might appreciate the break from lugging these around.

This is not uncommon on forward control vehicles. Early ford econolines initially didn't have one. Once they realized it was needed, they sent a bunch to the dealers for retrofit purposes. If I remember correctly, those ones were around 150lbs. It was to help with traction as well as keeping all four tires on the ground during hard braking. http://m.youtube.com/?client=mv-goog...?v=dHRgVvAO8Pw I seem to remember reading on one of the Toyota Van sites that some had them.

Hey Guys, I've got a broken electrical connector on the front side of my coolant cap. I can;t figure out what it's for. It has a single wire.

The van is a 1984 LEAttachment 2847Attachment 2848

That looks like the one on the left marked "idle-up temperature switch". In this picture it appears the lock tab is broken and it's held on with zip ties.http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/a...1&d=1430586393

While messing around looking into putting in a kill switch I saw this part pictured. It has an adjusting knob that says RPM. What is this and what does the knobest adjust? Is it for the blower? Thanks!Attachment 2980

I could well be mistaken but I think that is the ECU for the AC, I would tend to leave that knob alone.
At least until Tim has a chance to weigh in and advise accordingly.

That is the ac amplifier which is essentialy the ac ecu as burntboot said. The rpm knob is to adjust the low idle speed at which the ac clicks off. It's usually set at a high enough rpm that it will not run the ac at idle speed so it won't overheat the engine in hot conditions when the van isn't moving. I've fiddled with mine a bit and I know Tim has posted about adjusting his too but he also stated he has a engine temp switch that shuts off the ac if the engine gets too hot. If you must fiddle with it(That's how I figured out what it does.)do so with caution.

Thanks! One more unknown part identified!

I've got a pretty bad power steering fluid leak so I took my van (89 2wd) down to the mechanic. He said I needed a new high pressure power steering hose so I ordered this one: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...3-1753585.html

I took him the part and he said it didn't fit the van. He showed me a banjo connection, which looks like this (this is someone else's photo from this forum)
Attachment 3254

What is this part in the photo above called? In the link I posted it says "Gearbox side connects to Pressure line #44411-28051"

Would 44411-28051 be the part with the banjo fitting that connects to the power steering pump itself?

Many of the posts I've read about this talk about removing the hose and taking it to a hydraulic shop to get it repaired, is that what I need to be doing?

Is there any other information I could give that would be helpful? Thanks in advance y'all!

Jason

I picked mine up from RockAuto. I have an 87, but by the looks of things, they are similar. While the banjo fitting and threaded end worked, it wasn't a perfect fit, but close enough that I haven't had any issue with it.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=549&jpid=4

Part #'s Needed for 1989 TV 4WD Auto . I need part #'s for Cold Start Injector Time Switch (mounted right below the radiator cap ) , Coolant Temp Sender and Coolant Temp Sensor . Any help is greatly appreciated !!!

There's a picture in this link that shows some of the part numbers you're looking for http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...nt+temp+sensor

FYI, there's a search box in the upper right corner of every forum page. Sorry if I sound like a broken record, but every time duplicate threads are posted it makes the search harder to use (it adds another hit to future search results). The more hits you get during a search, the harder it becomes for everybody to find what we're searching for. Please search the site before posting new threads. If you cannot find what you're looking for, then please post your question in an existing thread of the same or similar subject. Thank you. Tim

I did a quick search for you and here's the results. If you want to go to the original threads (where these quotes are from), just click on the little blue arrow beside my name. Thank you :wave2:. Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

The cold start injector time switch is expensive. Depending on where you purchase, aftermarket and OEM will cost about the same. Toyota part #89462-20020 has the MSRP of ~$190, but some of the internet discount Toyota parts outlets will sell it for ~$140. Beck/Arnley part #1580034 goes for ~$155 on www.rockauto.com. If Toyota still has these I'd recommend ordering from them. It's not likely your local dealer will have this in stock, so you might as well save the $50 and order on-line. For us in the PNW, www.1stToyotaParts.com is probably who I'd recommend. Tim

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

You need the sender. On that site it's this one: http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/198...re_switch.html

The Toyota part number for this is 83420-20020

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

Temp sensors are cheap, so if I had a code 4, I'd just replace that. Napa part #TS5520 for around $15. If you're rolling in the bucks, then it's Toyota part #89422-12010 for around $80. Tim

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Thanks Tim

Ok , I have searched and searched and still for the life of me can't verify the identity of the sensors or switches located on the water outlet housing . One has a green plug and the other a brown plug . Can anyone identify these and give part numbers ? I have read through several post and seen several pics and they give different names !!!! I also need connectors for those of anyone can point me in the right direction . Thanks !!!!

I just merged your new thread with your other new thread to reduce clutter. I just did a quick search using key words "sensor sender time switch" and this thread popped right up: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...er+time+switch. Whenever possible, please post questions in existing threads of same subject matter. Tim

This connector will work on both the Time Switch and the ECU Temp Sensor: http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor...&keywords=s697. The Sender uses a standard 1/4" female spade connector (available almost everywhere). Don't bother with the Pressure-up (AKA Idle-Up) Temp Switch as it's a waste of time. Just take the wire that would normally go to that switch, and attach it to ground somewhere. Tim

Sorry for cluttering up the page with questions , just searching for too much info I guess . Thanks again Tim !!!!

I don't have the idle up sensor , the slot where its suppose to go is plugged but I do have the wire for it with connector , is it ok to just leave it or cut the connector off and ground it ?

To understand what that sensor does, read this article: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/c...amous-hot-soak. Grounding that wire will tell the ECU to increase fuel pressure for the 1st 2 minutes after start-up. The extra pressure can help combat the "heat soak" problem when those conditions exist. Tim

BTW, questions are good (keep them coming). Just please search 1st. If you can't find what you need, ask in a thread of the same or similar subject matter :thmbup:.

PS: If you van did not originally come from Toyota with factory AC, then you won't have that sensor. For vans without AC Toyota just put a plug there.

Great !!! Thanks a million !!!

Hey guys!

So I took off the dash to remove an aftermarket alarm and found that someone had spliced 2 wires into the switch side of the front A/C button connectors. Attachment 3525
One went down under the radio area but ended up not being connected to anything. the other (purple) went below the steering column and was put into what I believe to be the ignition switch connector? I'm not home now to look but yeah. Attachment 3526

do you guys know what this could have been for? I plan on returning the switch back to normal, let me know what you think.

Thanks!
-Spencer

It may have been for an autostart system. The purple wire may be the start circuit, and the wires going to the A/C button are probably for turning the A/C on once the engine has been running for a few seconds.

Attachment 3857

Just changed the oil and noticed it hanging free... any ideas what it is???:dizzy:

It's what I call an A/C Idle-Up VSV. It's supposed to mount on the PS of the head and it's job is to increase idle speed when the AC compressor is activated. For more information, refer to this thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...tached-diagram

To see how it's mounted to the head, check out the picture on post #19. Tim

Awesome Tim! My van idles high, the previous owner turned up the idle due to the AC drawing it down too much. I haven't had the need to run the AC yet, though,I've had it on for a bit every month just because I read I should somewhere. I'll read the thread, thanks again. -Harv

Going through the electrical trying to trouble shoot check engine light and I found this cut wire. I have gone through the manual and can't figure out what it could be. The van runs pretty well aside from the check engine light. Help is appreciated...

It looks like the connection for the center console or (more likely) the brake light, i believe it connects to the e-brake

Quote:

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Originally Posted by konerdude

It looks like the connection for the center console or (more likely) the brake light, i believe it connects to the e-brake

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thanks Konerdude. I still haven't figured it out but the brake lights and e brake dash light works so i', still not sure....

I keep forgetting to double check my wiring for this but I'm pretty sure that's for the coolant level sensor in the bottom of the coolant reservoir.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by originalkwyjibo

I keep forgetting to double check my wiring for this but I'm pretty sure that's for the coolant level sensor in the bottom of the coolant reservoir.

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Ah thank you! That makes sense. I am getting a coolant sensor check engine code too... i order new sensor then the harness was fried to the sensor so i had to find a harness.... you know, the usual. I will take a look at it...

:whs: I believe Original is correct. You can easily test this by turning the key to "run", then try touching the wires together. If it's for the overflow bottle float switch, the radiator light on your dash should blink on/off when you make/break connection.................assuming the bulb is still there and not burned out. Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

:whs: I believe Original is correct. You can easily test this by turning the key to "run", then try touching the wires together. If it's for the overflow bottle float switch, the radiator light on your dash should blink on/off when you make/break connection.................assuming the bulb is still there and not burned out. Tim

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blah. no luck with that. I found the reservoir sensor underneath and it is close to where this wire is located but it is intact. I checked the dash lights and they are all working when i turn the key to on so one less thing. trying to find a picture to trace it. i use a chiltons but the pictures are limited.

What color are the wires? The chassis side of the coolant float sensor should be yellow with a red stripe and white with a blue stripe. You mention a coolant sensor code and damaged wires. I assume you are referring to code 22 for the coolant temp sensor. These wires should be brown and green. There's also the oil level sensor on the side of the oil pan. Those wires would be white with a blue stripe and yellow.