Quote:
Originally Posted by llamavan
I ended up with getting Gates hoses and a cap at Rockauto. I got this boundless energy that it's all gona work out! :dance2:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llamavan
I ended up with getting Gates hoses and a cap at Rockauto. I got this boundless energy that it's all gona work out! :dance2:
IMHO I think Gates is just as good as Toyota. Toyota fits slightly better (no trimming required) but I believe the quality of both is without question. As for pricing, if you use a discount Toyota parts site (like www.1sttoyotaparts.com) they are about the same. Tim
Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
I ended up just passing on replacing the upper and lower hoses. They're in good shape and I really don't want to start looking for things to do to the van. :no: I did replace the radiator cap though! I'm just going to save the Gates flex hose replacements in the van and have them for any needed repairs.
If you're talking about flex-hoses I take back what I said. I hate flex hoses............I was talking about their formed hoses and bulk heater hoses. Tim
I hate these flex hoses too! Fortunutely they weren't too expensive. It would have been nice if they were the molded hoses. I might have changed them then! I'll spend a little more time on researching these two hoses!Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
I guess I lied earlier (regarding prices). If you get at Rock Auto the Gates are cheaper. There is however their ridiculous shipping calculator, so end price will likely be comparable. Here's the part numbers with current pricing. Gates info is copy/paste from Rock Auto, Toyota info is copy/paste from www.1stToyotaParts.com. Toyota is ready to install, Gates may require some trimming to get the "almost proper" fit. Keep in mind 2wds & 4wds use different hoses........except the Gates, I think the uppers are interchangeable from one to another (just a little more trimming depending on which one you're working on). Tim
GATES Part # 21173 Molded Coolant Hose; 1 1/4" x 21 13/16" Does Not Contain Spring
Cut to fit; Lower; 4WD $15.72
GATES Part # 21737 Molded Coolant Hose; 1 5/16" x 22" Does Not Contain Spring
Upper
Cut to Fit; Upper $12.85
HOSE, RADIATOR, 4wd Lwr [Part# 1657273040]
Toyota
List Price:$36.49
Your Price:$26.33
HOSE, RADIATOR, 4wd Upper [Part# 1657173050]
Toyota
List Price:$36.49
Your Price:$26.33
Tim,
Is there anyway of checking if they replaced the radiator in my van with a more common 2wd radiator? Do the two radiators inter-change easily? Just examining how everything fits and stuff, it looks like it's the stock radiator in it.
I'm lost in what can still be causing my overheating. I got about 10 miles yesterday, which is an improvement! It started to get hotter, but fortunately I had to stop. I would be F'ed if I had to climb a hill yesterday! I can list all the things done so far and the condition of practically everything on it.
I do have the thing being stuck in 3 gear some days. Yesterday was one of them. I just never know if I got 4th gear or not. Some days yeah, others no. And this is after I discounted the sensor on the engine block.
Quote:
Originally Posted by User1
2WD rads are different from 4WD ones, and are not interchangeable.
Don't mind me chiming in, as I'm a little late to the party. I need to check the 4WD part of the forum more often.
Something is bugging me about the fact you're still overheating even after replacing those parts. Have you tried running the van with the rad cap off to operating temp and watching for bubbles appearing at the filler neck? Forgive me if you've already done this, just its the easiest way to see if you have HG issues.
You could probably put a 2wd radiator in there if you removed your front differential :shock:. The reason the 4wd radiators are different is because the differential is in the way (radiators are shorter on 4wd vans).
Did you check out the threads I linked you to earlier? Sounds like it's time to do an HC test on your cooling system. Tim
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRSJ
Hey JR,
I haven't done this. I can do this tomorrow and report back.
Thanks,
I reread the threads and can almost recite the text. I've reread it again before posting just now.Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
I'm thinking this test kit can be used to do the pressure testing? It's available for free via Autozone. I just have to return it in one piece. Doing the HC test will be next. I'll call some local auto repair places and see what Napa has for this.
The thing that stopped me from doing the HC test is that except for the overheating, the van is running quite well. I haven't taken it to any mechanics yet but the dude that did the smog test, was impressed with the van and told me it's running quite well. Oh and it passed the smog test no problem.
The pressure test kit can be useful if you have unexplained loss of coolant. If it's not leaking or losing any, then you probably don't need it. If there's HC's in the cooling system, then that's a good indication of a slowly leaking head-gasket. IMO the 2wd van cooling system is just barely big enough, and the 4wd has an even smaller radiator. This means it's gotta flow & transfer heat at top performance just to do the minimum job of keeping the van cool. If you have doubts about the radiator, take it into a radiator shop. They will remove a tank and inspect / rod it out for under $100 (assuming it's not rotten). At least then you'll know it's not that.
I know you've already done a lot (and probably already posted about it), but I just wanted to confirm you've replaced the thermostat and tested the clutch fan. Could you hear it roar and take some horsepower when the needle started climbing beyond the 1/2 way mark? You've also verified the coolant is up to the top of the filler cap too......right?
Hey Tim, OK so here's the recap on all done and status,Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
Waterpump - Duralast made in Japan, life time warranty
Fan clutch - Hayden made in USA life expectancy of the clutch is 60,00 miles or 5 years
T-stat - Toyota part and replaced documented above
Radiator - has "9-13-07JC" on it and 1 gallon of 100% coolant plus water
Radiator cap - replaced with Gates cap
Hoses - upper and lower look good, I've replaced others and documented, hose of death replaced somewhere in it's life (pic above)
Heater is blowing out good hot air (even though one of my controls levers for "hot" doesn't work that well)
I'll be doing JR's suggestion and yours today and get back. I don't have a torch to do your test, but I'll work with what I have. I'll take a look again at the coolant and see where it's at. I'll look today for the HC test.
User1,
You mentioned that your "hot" lever doesn't work. If you go under the front of the van, there is a valve there that can hang up. Take a channel-lock or something and wiggle it back and forth. They can get gummed, so if you free it up at the valve, the cable will have an easier time actuating the valve for temp control.
Hey skibum,Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum
Thanks for the response. I'm somewhat new to the TV and have a bit trouble navigating around it. Is there anyway to give more info on to where exactly is this valve? Sounds like I got to disconnect the valve then wiggle it?
JR,
Looks like there's bubbling happening at the radiator cap. There was always gasses coming out as the video shows.
http://youtu.be/SvM9C7JzbgM
http://youtu.be/qXHWbPhko9U
@Tim,
Oh and I called 3 Napa stores in the area. One didn't know what I was talking about and had nothing for checking the checking for Hydro Carbons in the cooling system. Another referred me to this item, the third referred me to this item. I'm assuming that is the item you are referring to (3rd item)? I called the radiator shops in my town and surrounding area. There's one that has been servicing the area since '38 and he did sound like he knew his business. He's charging $25 for checking for hydro carbons.
I don't like the looks of that. You could have a small compression leak into the cooling system. Get the HC test. The Block Tester (the one the 3rd Napa store suggested) is the one I've used. It works. If you don't like other people touching your stuff or if you think you might be doing this again someday, then that might be the way to go. If you trust the shop and don't care to ever do this again then I'd probably just pay them to test it.
If you look under the front of the van, you'll see a cable hooked in to an actuator lever. The bracket is mounted horizontally and the valve is inline in the heater hose. It will make sense when you look in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by User1
Interesting info on the coolant capacity here,
Coolant capacity (w/ Heater):
2WD w/o Rear heater
7.9 liters (8.3 US qts, 7.0 Imp.qts)
w/ Rear heater
8.4 liters (8.9 US qts, 7.4 Imp.qts)
4WD w/o Rear heater
7.0 liters (7.4 US qts, 6.2 Imp. qts)
w/ Rear heater
7.5 liters (7.9 US qts, 6.6 Imp. qts)
OK thanks skibum,Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum
I think I'll have some time to do this tomorrow. Looks like I'm going to be taking my head off pretty soon. I gota find someone to do the machine work.
OK looks like I'll be doing the head sometime in the future. I managed to read every thread that had "head gasket" in the title. I saw your write up on replacing the parts along with the head work. Is the power steering pump something I should think about? It's working good and no leaks that are noticeable. I'll look closer at the system. There was a reference of a $40 sensor that I should replace. Is that correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
Looks like the 1000 page manual is going to be a good friend of mine. This seemed kinda strange on it;
CLEAN CYLINDER HEAD
Using a soft brush and solvent, thoroughly clean the head.
CAUTION: Do not clean the head in a hot tank as this
would seriously damage it.
ref: pg 41
It flunked the HC test? I believe the $40 part you're referring to is the BVSV (Bi Metal Vacuum Switching Valve) otherwise known as the "Oh crap I broke it valve". If it's not already broken AND if you can remove/re-install the head without breaking it, then you're golden. It's got 2 little plastic nipples on it for vacuum lines. After years exposed to engine heat the nipples become fragile and break off. Rather than worry about it I would just plan on replacement.
If you end up removing the head I would recommend taking it to a machine shop. They will tear it down and check it out for you. Most of the better shops will have a washing machine for cleaning it up. At the very least you will want to put new valve guide seals on it. It will also likely need new valve guides and possibly a valve grind. It should also be checked for flatness. If it's warped beyond acceptable limits it will need resurfacing. Have them check it closely for cracks. If you can't afford this type of service, then there are ways to check things yourself. I believe I've outlined these in other places here on TVT...........good luck. Tim
Yes they gave it two tests and it flunked both of them. Funny thing is it drove ok all day today. OK, I didn't drive on the freeway. And yes that's the valve I was interested in replacing BEFORE I break it. Can you give me the info for tracking this one down? I'm going to have to do some research on getting the machining done on this. Not really up to speed on who's who around here.Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
It's all laid out in those links...........everything you need:
Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
I was kinda hinting around a connection on getting this valve at the cheaper price than $60. Seems a bit high for stupid little thing with no electronics either. Looks like other Toyotas have these "BVSV"s too.
I've never tried to get one aftermarket. Maybe you could check with O'Reily's or somebody to see if they could save you a buck.
Looks like all the auto parts stores worth checking don't have a substitute for this valve. I tried Oreily, Autozone, and Napa. All coming up empty. I did see thatQuote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
http://www.discounttoyotaparts.net/ and http://www.toyotapartszone.com/ both came up positive for having this valve. They were roughly around $40 with shipping. Beats the hell out of spending over $60 for the part.
I might go to the wreckers one day and see if I could get this part off of a Toyota. I saw that this valve fits a TON of different models*. I may just go and see what I could find. I might as well try to save $40 if I can.
*Can send a text file of all the models if someone needs it. It's just rather big and don't want to plaster it on the thread here.
Well I couldn't get to the wreckers till today and I would have to say I'm rather satified with what I was able to find.
Attachment 673
If these are kinda dark, I can photo them in the day time and they should be better. Anyways, this is what I got in two large yards. BTW, they had very few TVs, saw more Mitsubishi vans than TV. Go figure!
The first row is of the proper part, 90925-05017. The last one is of some aftermarket part with no part number on it. The second row is of 90925-05068 part that I was going to use if I couldn't find the correct ones. The 90925-05017 ones were almost all found in a few '89 Toyota Camery. The very first two were a B***H to get off. I had to resort to using vise-grips to get them off. Number 3 and 4 is what I'll use. The others I'll just have as needed.
Little on part finding these. OK the ones on the bottom row you'll pretty much find them all day. The "correct ones" take a little more time finding them, but you can. They were all located in pretty much the same area. Driver's side of the engine compartment and in the top area. If you have a 19mm open end wrench, use that. A crescent wrench is doable but it can be done. Some just don't want to come out! They are pretty much solid but can break. Saw alot that were broken from others wrenching on the car. Some that the car was fairly striped and was easy to get to.
All in all beats the hell out of paying $40-60 on one of these!
The bottom row valve takes a 24mm.
Lol, looks like you got a lifetime supply there. The van is pretty hard on plastic parts (at least in the engine compartment). I'm guessing the Camry ones still have lots of life left. 1st time I had to remove one of these I smashed it with a hammer then removed the base with a regular socket (what the hell, it was already broken :lol:). Putting the new one in was a slight PITA due to the fuel line right there so I cut a slot out of a thick-wall deep socket and used that. I replace these things every so often (in different vans) so the socket gets used semi-regularly. here's a picture:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9730.jpg
wwoooo doggie!!!! Cutting up a Craftman deep socket just for dealing with this part huh? Think I'm going to look at ebay or try some kind of cheapo tool store. I value my Craftmans.
Getting back to these valves. Looks like these things are just passed over by everyone pulling parts. I saw very few that were pulled from the manifolds. They were pretty much always left. Some even had everything pulled from the engine. After finding one I was able to spots these easily too. Just had to spot the 80's Toyotas.
One more pic for good measures,
Attachment 679
I ended up getting a Craftsman socket. I didn't want to do stuff twice, so went with the Craftsman. It went against my restitution to destroy a perfect socket that I could have added to my collection, but what the heck.
Attachment 686
What kind of tool did you guys use to cut the slot in those sockets?
I used a dremel and one disposable cutting disc. I was under the impression that it was going to be a b***h to cut this, but I was abit underwhelmed with the hardest of the metal.Quote:
Originally Posted by trestlehed
BTW, I'm gona use this dremel for cutting my assess to the hose of death. This thing just doesn't die! All the cooling fins are busted off and it runs like NO BIGGY!
I used a die grinder and a cut-off wheel for the long cuts. I switched to a dremel with a worn cut-off wheel for the short cut. I held it close to my chest while cutting, then noticed my shirt was smoldering when I finished :lol:. I ended up with an extra button hole in that shirt. :)
User1, that's a thin-wall socket.............not sure how well it will do if you run into a tight one to remove. Tim
It just needs to survive long enough to get the good one on my van. I guess it would be saved for if I ever have to deal with this valve again. As far as taking them off on the van, I'll do what you did and use a good 19mm socket. As far as taking them off at the wreckers, I'll use what I was doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
I'm not sure how much clearance you have around that part, but if you did have a "tight" one, you could probably "strap" the socket with a hose clamp, to keep it from spreading. Just a thought.Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum
Hey skibum,
I had a chance to look at this the other day. I'm pretty sure this cable connection is for the lever that selects the possible airflow in the dash area. For example, foot area or face area, etc, etc. The lever that is sticking is the lever for the temp of the air coming out.
If you are correct, then this lever underneath moves fairly freely when disconnected.
I'm going to have to look again. I thought it was the water valve, but looking in the manual, it looks like there is also an air valve that looks similar. The picture was my van that has a working heater valve, but I'm at our winter home and that lever is hung up, so I will try to free it. Then I'll verify which valve I think I'm looking at.
Nice time of year to make sure the heater is working, anyway :)
The airmix damper & the water valve are both operated by the single temp lever (2 cables). This is part of the reason there's so much resistance here. The other levers only operate 1 cable each. Tim