Radiator for 4WD

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM VANMAN

We're talking specifically about 4WD 5 speed specs, correct?

---

Chi-Town, you might ask what price difference (if any) there would be having a transmission cooler built-in. If we're doing a group buy, depending on price difference, it might make more sense to build them all with auto trans coolers. If the radiator is built to the automatic transmission specs, it could be used in all 4wd vans (at least without mods).

If I'm forking out ~$500 for an aluminum radiator, it might very possibly be moved from van to van over it's life, and it would be nice to have one interchangeable without having to set-up a separate tranny cooler. Tim

Also interested......

i'm curious though, would there be plastic involved? Like some of the modern aluminum rad's out there today I think have plastic tanks? If I remember correctly, I went through a couple over the years in different pick ups I've owned. I think the plastic tanks and what not would get brittle over time...

.



....can someone please give measurements of the 4x4 radiator core?.... thanks!

I'm going from memory here, but I believe the core (not including tanks) is ~11" X 22" (or there abouts). I'd go and measure, but some tweeker metal thieves stole all my spare 4x4 radiators. :pissed: Tim

Radiator Dimensions are in Post 8.

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...g-4wd-radiator

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chi-Town

At $439 for a recore would anyone be interested in an aluminum replacement?

I have a local guy that makes aluminum radiators for race cars, street rods, and odd applications that I could ask for pricing. I'm guessing if we did 4 or 5 at a time it might help with the cost?

---

I would also be interested in this as well. I don't know much about car repair (learning as I go). What would be the benefit of an aluminum radiator over a high efficiency recore of the old one?

-Derek

There's lots of differences and reasons why, but the short answer is aluminum is 30 - 40% lighter, yet will typically last longer while cooling more efficiently. As a material, copper is scientifically proven to transfer heat better, but due to it's softness, it has construction limitations. There is also the problem of different types of materials. Traditional copper radiators are made of dissimilar metals and that leads to "solder bloom". Solder bloom is an inherent corrosion problem created when dissimilar metals are soldered together. This happens especially where the brass tanks are soldered to the copper core. Since aluminum radiators are 100% aluminum, that means they don't have that issue. Since aluminum is a stronger material, it allows the tubes to be bigger (wider) and closer together. This means a 2 core aluminum radiator can provide as much or more surface area as a 4 core copper radiator. Until recently, aluminum was prohibitively expensive, but new manufacturing techniques and the rising cost of copper are closing/have closed the price gap. Tim

.


...wow,, hadn't thought aluminum would be -better- :thmbup:

It's still a matter of opinion and preference. There's pros & cons to both. Thickness and design of core will also effect efficiency & longevity. If damaged, copper is much easier to repair, and solder bloom can be controlled by regular radiator flushes. For people who neglect their vehicles, aluminum would be the better choice (regarding solder bloom). Aluminum radiators can be repaired, but if/when damaged, replacement is often the better option. It's the weight savings that make aluminum better for race car applications. Tim

Thanks for that.

I suppose I am more interested in how well it cools over the weight savings. I was originally searching for someone that could do a high efficiency recore of my current radiator and bump it up from a 2 core to a 3 or 4. My van runs fine when it's 72 degrees and I'm moving. But the second I hit that Los Angeles traffic or the outside temperature starts to climb into the mid 80's, the needle starts to creep up and it eventually starts to toe the red line. I've replaced the water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, etc. I even added an electric puller fan in front of my current radiator. Nothing as worked and nothing has changed. I'm hoping a new radiator will help keep the needle in a comfortable spot no matter the conditions.

There are several variables, but you can generally expect aluminum to dissipate the same amount of BTU's while being 30 - 40% lighter.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by robotfist

.........I even added an electric puller fan in front of my current radiator..........

---

Probably just an error in terminology or wording, but pusher fans get mounted to the front & pullers get mounted to the back. Tim

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by timsrv

Probably just an error in terminology or wording, but pusher fans get mounted to the front & pullers get mounted to the back. Tim

---

Yep! Mistake in wording! If not, that would certainly exacerbate the problem!

BTW, I've tried aftermarket clutch fans (2 different brands) and did not have good results with either. Rockauto.com has OE Aisin fans for ~$75 and I've had excellent results with those. For more information, check this thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...g-(fan-clutch). Tim

Hate to bring up an old thread, but does the radiator from a 2wd a/t fit a 4wd a/t? The measurements seem the same.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NRS3...earchIndex=App

I don't see a Vanwagon listed in your signature......Are you wanting to use one in a Previa? FYI, I believe all automatic Previa radiators are interchangeable, but no Vanwagon radiators will fit (at least not without some serious mods). If you're talking strictly Vanwagons, the 2wd radiator will not readily fit into a 4wd. I've heard it can be done, but the 4wd has a shorter radiator with different mounts (this is needed as the front differential occupies some space where the radiator goes). If you need a radiator for a 4wd Vanwagon, your best option is to go with a quality recore (new 4wd radiators are NLA). Tim

I was referring to a vanwagon tim, but come to find out it was 2wd anyways :(

SOS off Thread topic ?. I feel like a dunce. Can not seem to find the engine block drain plug on my 88 2wd AT. Found a Previa thread with a pic of it. Is it anywhere near the oil filter side of the block?

Appreciate the help. Thanks

Just imagine the worst possible place, and you'll find it there. Here's a link to a post with a picture: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...=7781#post7781

Thank you again Tim. In the thread you mentioned that the job is a PITA. If it is a PITA for you, i am in trouble but now i know where it is.

On the 2wd you have the alternator, the exhaust manifold, and the motor mount working against you. On the 4wd you can add the front drive shaft (blocks from underneath). Of course the body metal of the engine compartment is close here too, so that's why you need a very specific length socket/extension combination. Tim