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No, you were right......it was Pat Benatar. I had recorded two of those but originally uploaded the other one because it was better (not so jerky). Since they pulled that one I just replaced it with the other (both were recorded in May of 2011). Took a while to find as I had to scan through a bunch of SD cards from 3 different cameras. TimQuote:
Originally Posted by AD2101
i could have sworn it was steve miller..
thanks again to tim who took the time / effort to dig out and re-post his excellent instructional video!
Here's whats listed for TPS units on Rock Auto. Anyone have any preferences??
Attachment 8110
The Beck-Arnley and then follow the instructions from Tim about how to use the volt meter on the resistance setting to fine tune.
Is there a way to replace the tps without taking the throttle body out?
Anything is possible, but in this case it's far easier to remove it.
Theres a couple of short phillips screws holding the tps on the throttle body, and are a REAL pain to get to without removal. And the adjustment is far easier with it off.
I suppose it can be done though, try not to drop the screws. :wave1:
Quote:
Originally Posted by syn
I was able to do this job with the throttle body still "semi-attached" to the van (i.e. still connected to the hoses but removed from the intake manifold). You're only able to get this done if you completely remove the "hood" as it'll give you the access necessary to get the job done. I was able to get the new TPS on, mostly adust it with the standard test leads on my multimeter, and get it all back together. Adjusting it with the standard test leads was the sketchiest part, and I think that's why I'm still getting a code 11 on my '86.
Since I did all that and I'm still getting a TPS-related engine code, maybe you're better off removing the throttle body completely and doing this job by the book. However, I'm stubborn and bought a pair of alligator leads instead and I'm going to remove the hood again and redo this job sometime this winter. This time I'm confident I can adjust the TPS without removing the throttle body from the van in any way.
TL;DR
Yes, but only if you're willing to completely remove the hood, and possibly still have to semi-remove the throttle body in order to get the old TPS off.
Now I gotta figure out how to take the "hood" off
THIS LIBRARY ARTICLE contains that information! :)
Gwen
Welp even with the hood off this is impossible...I guess I should just order a gasket and then take the throttle body off. Also is there a tutorial on getting rid of all the unnecessary vacuum lines and canisters? I don't need to pass emmissons for this van where I live.
Attachment 8137
OH crap, I thought you may have found a short cut for me. Looks mine will have to come off if adjustment is necessary.
Nice try SNY
MT
Also I missed the "semi-attached" part of the post before :/
You are gonna just have to take it off I think... really not a biggy. AND, you can hose the thing down with some intake cleaner, clean all those vac line pesky passages that may be gummed up.
Also it's ten times easier to adjust the tps with it out of the engine compartment.
Doing my throttle body and the seals for the butterfly shaft look real bad, one cracked.
Anyone know their part number or anywhere to get them?
MT
We touched on that subject posts #6 & 7 this thread. You can find high pressure seals for Mitsubishi and other unlisted "multiple fitments" on the web. It's possible those may fit???Quote:
Originally Posted by MyToy
I think you might have a better chance with taking the seals from THIS KIT. It's for a 22RE, but at least it's for Toyota. It's also regular seals (not high pressure).
Regarding the type seals you choose, even if the high pressure seals fit, the std ones would be preferred unless you're running forced induction. High pressure seals would likely put more pressure on the shaft causing it and the seals to wear faster.
If you try either of these, please let us know if they fit. Tim
OK, let's give this a go. I ordered it. Will let everyone know what happens.
Heads up Tim:
The Seal kit came in and it was not really for our throttle body. The gasket and the idle screw were wrong but the seals were OK.
So not a total loss.
Another issue with fuel damper but will hit that in the other thread.
MT
I never expected the other parts to fit, but I thought there was a chance the seals would work. The seals are the only thing you needed.........right?Quote:
Originally Posted by MyToy
Correct-O
All is good.
Any recommendations for how to deal with rusted coolant tubes? Slide something over and braze it in maybe?
Attachment 9181
We touched on that in posts 49 & 50. If you figure something out please share with the rest of us. Tim
Hey Tim could he not just bypass this if he is not in super cold climate?
Just a thought.
MT
Oh yeah, good point.....(I see he's in Hawaii). The coolant flowing through the throttle body is just to prevent freeze-ups in cold climates. If it never freezes where you are you could simply bypass the throttle body (bypass the bypass :LOL2:) and not worry about it. Tim
Edit: Read further before attempting this (no longer recommended), user "MyToy" tried it and had freeze-up issues @ 94° F!
What has two thumbs and loves you guys for being so awesome?
This dude. This dude right here.:thmbup::thmbup:
Ok about ready to put this sucker back in but realized that the gasket 22271-73011 is discontinued and not in stock anywhere that I can find. Any recommendations?
Is that the one between the throttle body and the manifold?
mt
Thanks. I guess I am feeling a little bit special this week. Hopefully my lost searching skills will turn up shortly.
As for bypassing the water inlet probably was not a good idea. I bypassed them on mine just so see if they would effect my crazy idle issue going up by 300 rpm after the engine is on for more that 15 min. If you adjust idle down to 700 at that time she has a hard time to keep running within those first 10 to 15 minutes. You have to majorly feather the gas pedal.
So I said, what the heck, let me try this. No issue until I got on the highway for a while doing 85 at 32000 RPM. The van came to a stop as if I ran out of gas. I opened the lid and could not find anything wrong. 5 minutes later she started back up. Ran it again and again she dies.
When I got her home I immediately pulled of the air intake to look into the mix control. There it was ICE!!! The water bypass is to protect the mixture control from freezing in high humidity climates. I should have know, they do this all the time on non fuel injected airplanes. As the air gets sucked in to the assembly it drops in temperature and when mixed with the humidity it freezes.
So if you do bypass it and she dies you know why. Hawaii may be different. But here in Florida, it is needed.
MT
Good to know. It freezes here so I've never tried it. What was the ambient temp when yours froze?
Outside temp was 94 Deg with 99% humidity
Wow! so I think I'll edit my previous post where I said it's okay to do that in warm climates :dizzy: :doh:.Quote:
Originally Posted by MyToy
Cut them off, drill and tap for something like these is what I have done on the 22re's throttle body...Quote:
Originally Posted by beetleswamp
https://www.amazon.com/Vis-Fitting-S..._df_B07CWS7YHC
Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
Must be the humidity or something... I wouldn't ever think with the air flow these litle 4y's get that it would freeze in 90+ degrees...
Very common in aviation. As I mentioned, every aircraft that is not fuel injected (no carburetor or mixture control at all) has carburetor heat. This is part of the instrument panel where in most cases, like Cesena 172's, has a pull level like a choke. When descending you add carburetor heat, pull the dumb lever, before you freeze it. Otherwise it is a bad day:no:
Part of the issue is the somewhat remote mounting of the throttle body. Despite the engine compartment heat it is mounted up and away from direct heat. This also why air cooled VWs had heat riser tubes on the intake. The air velocity past the throttle plate creates a considerable temperature drop. Mount the throttle plate away from a direct heat source and you will get icing. The colder the air is to begin with(such as at altitude as Mytoy noted)or the higer the humidity the worse it is. I have a '62 Bug with aftermarket single carb and intake without heat riser tubes and had this happen frequently. Especially if I didn't let it warm up.
What about a spray cleaner that doesn't require disassembly?
Attachment 9547
Would this be worth my time if I can't take the time/risk to do this rebuild just yet?
Does it come with a sticker? Everybody knows thats where the real horsepower comes from... :yes:Quote:
Originally Posted by phychotron
I use the cleaner when needed... it's better to take the throttle body out and just clean it though.
If it was a one day repair that didn't require grinding and potentially fixing it I'd be more inclined to do it. Right now its getting colder and rainier every day. I was going to give my van a tune up but might skip it because its too cold/humid to resin/fiberglass the center console. Spring/summer repairs.