Radiator for 4WD

All the threads say pull the radiator out from underneath. There is a far easier way to do this. Remove the passenger seat ( 4 bolts, the back closest to the door is a stud , the nut is in the wheel well. Then, Remove the passenger side engine cowl ( a dozen bolts or so) You dont even have to disconnect the transmission shifter, just slide the assembly and cowl aside and the whole engine is open to work on. remove the fan shroud ( two pieces, the bottom unclips and then the top slide out easy). Pull the hoses. Unscrew the two retaining nuts on the bottom and the center bolt on top. And the radiator slides right up and out. Easy Peasy

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Originally Posted by liquidlights

[...]Remove the passenger seat [...] Remove the passenger side engine cowl [...]

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And here's the detailed post on how to do that!

Gwen

I got quoted $459 for a high efficiency recore by a shop in the bay area that seems to have a good reputation. I asked if it has 3 or 4 cores and I think the guy said 2 :cnfsd:. But he went on to say it had more fins per inch or something than the other recore he could do for $379. I am not sure if I should go for it or send out for the Ability in yuba city with known good results. It would be nice and more convenient to deal with someone local. Any thoughts on the efficacy of a 2 core 'high efficiency' radiator in the 4wd van?

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Originally Posted by Burntboot

Not sure about 2WD's but on a 4WD the condensor is mounted horizontally, ahead of the rad area and the fans blow down.
Can't see how they would do anything to help the radiator cool better.
BB

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So AC condenser steals air from engine radiator? Robbing Pierre to pay Paul? Some ducting seams to be called for down there!

Toyota used different configurations on different vans. My 89 2wd cargo van and my 86 2wd LE have dual air (front & back) and that system uses 2 condensers. One laying down horizontal and another mounted directly to the front of the radiator. I'm not real crazy about this as the condenser is dumping all that heat directly in front of the radiator. Not like they had a lot of choices for location though (only so much room under the front of these things). IMO not much you can do to improve ventilation unless you get real crazy and put one on the roof or something.

Uhm... Hey guys. Anyone want to explore this one more?

https://www.northernfactory.com/AUTO...N_-_WAGON/1987

Says they make one for our 4wd vans.

Meh, never mind. I called them and got the patented "We don't sell to the general public, and we don't make those anyways" response.

Has anyone taken the radiator out and let it soak with vinegar inside it for a couple days? I have a feeling mine has some clogged passages in it.

I am gonna try it... A vinegar soak for a couple days and see if I can't make this thing flow better. I have pretty much tackled everything else involved in the cooling system, save that.

Worse case scenario, it stays the same and I drive 4 hours to get it dipped and rodded, re-soldered and pressure tested. Or just a new core if they need to.

Is there a reason why this radiator wouldn't work in an 87 4wd MT van?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/g...85-h/overview/

Size seems alright, will need some brackets to fit the stock holes..

Looking for options - my current rad is not salvageable..

I have:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-2-26185-h

It is the predecessor to the part you posted. The new one (that you posted) has a larger tube size, which is better. They are identical, other than the one you listed is .5 inches thicker.

It fits with minimal fabrication. It cools amazingly. I run a turbo on my 4y and in the heat of the summer pulling a trailer up a miles long grade with boost the engine reached a maximum of 215 degrees. It runs 187 otherwise.

That's great news!!

A few questions:

1. How did you mount the rad? Bottom mounts only?
2. What fab was necessary? Just the lower bracket extensions to push the lower brackets out a bit? (I believe the two rad mount holes on the 4WD van are 25" apart)
3. What did you do with the original small diameter hose that enters the radiator?
4. How did you mount the fan shroud? Any modification/cutting necessary to fit the new rad?
5. Did you use adaptors for the oem hoses to fit the larger rad intake/outake ports?

Very excited for this..

I made new bottom mounts. Not hard, you'll see.

For years I ran a "friction" type top mount. It was a bolt stabbing a plate of aluminum placed on top of the radiator using the top middle factory bolt hole bent. Later, I welded a mount to the top middle of the radiator to take advantage on that factory mount (probably could be JB Welded).

I use (95% sure):

Upper radiator hose, Dayco/Hose Item# 81061 (stretched on to the radiator)
Lower radiator hose, gates 25532 (I used a hose adapter on the engine side to fit, the hose adapter can be a piece of the old hose, double clamp)

Those are universal hoses, which I don't like, but they work well.

Shroud works with trimming, and creativity

I deleted the small hose. It's fine. It just takes a bit longer to purge the system of air. There is a port on the Griffin radiator but it's on the cold side, and the engine hose is on the hot side. it doesn't work pumping hot coolant into the cold side of the radiator.I just plugged the small hole on the radiator and engine.

All told, it's a relatively easy modification. A welder makes it easier, but it isn't necessary.

Hello everyone. What ever became of the aluminum radiators mentioned earlier in this thread? Were they ever made?

No, they were not. To find more posts regarding aluminum radiators, search the site using the term "griffin". Tim

Thank you Tim. I checked out the post per your suggestion. Have you tried the "griffin" radiators? If so, are you happy with it? Any downside you can think of? Looking forward to hearing back from you or anyone else that has this upgrade installed. Hope to hear from you soon, and I hope everyone is staying safe out there.

Best
MacD

I have only used copper thus far. I just remembered Griffin as the name brand others have used. Post your question in one of those threads and previous posters should be notified (and hopefully will respond). Tim

Will do. Thanks again Tim.

Hello MacD,

I've been using the Griffin radiator for a few years now. I really enjoy it.

Take an look at posts 68-71 of this thread. I provided some good information. There some other posts I've made too in other threads. Take a look, and if you have questions I'll be happy to answer them.

That is incredibly nice of you VanCo, I will take you up on that offer when I am ready. I just want to swap out my stock radiator for an aluminum one. I will check out your post and get back to you with questions. Many thanks!

MacD

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Originally Posted by VanCo

I have:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-2-26185-h

It is the predecessor to the part you posted. The new one (that you posted) has a larger tube size, which is better. They are identical, other than the one you listed is .5 inches thicker.

It fits with minimal fabrication. It cools amazingly. I run a turbo on my 4y and in the heat of the summer pulling a trailer up a miles long grade with boost the engine reached a maximum of 215 degrees. It runs 187 otherwise.

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It may not be a critical parameter, but the Summit page for the successor 56185 radiator mentions a 23" width as opposed to the 22" width of the predecessor.

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Originally Posted by Jbbishop2

It may not be a critical parameter, but the Summit page for the successor 56185 radiator mentions a 23" width as opposed to the 22" width of the predecessor.

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I see what you are referring to, however; both radiators are listed as 22" wide in the overview on Summit's site. Not sure why.

The width isn't a big issue 23" will fit fine. There is no room for additional height though.