I thought it was a good item to try, for the $ it was worth it. Also like many things that may soon be NLA as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
Here is a link to the one I used. http://m.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-AUTO-TRA...778?nav=SEARCH
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I thought it was a good item to try, for the $ it was worth it. Also like many things that may soon be NLA as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
Here is a link to the one I used. http://m.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-AUTO-TRA...778?nav=SEARCH
Cool, I just put one in my cart. Next time I check out I'll have one to replace the one I stole from a good extra xmsn I have. Tim
Thanks for moving my post to the appropriate thread. The overdrive button on the gear selector seems to work. When switched off. The light on the dash comes on and it will not go into overdrive. I'm going to try replacing the stock overdrive solenoid with the Volvo overdrive solenoid. Hopefully that will cure the problem.
I've been searching and I'm not sure if this is the right place but what the heck:
My 88 2wd TV's muffler rusted off before I bought it. It's actually sortof convenient in the meantime (while I'm waiting on the new one) cause I can hear pretty well what the engine is doing. Anyway, I drive 60 miles round trip for work each day with lots of hills. When I'm coasting downhill and let off the gas I can definitely feel the van rolling slower than it should. When I coast past cement walls and the like (echos) I can hear the engine engaging in drive(like engine braking?) and when I shift it into neutral I feel the tension/inertia goes away and it coasts well like it should. Is this an overdrive related issue or something else?
The only other things I can think of is maybe that the ATF is overfilled, or it could be that the front brake rotors are quite rusty (you can hear them grinding when I drive, just haven't had time/cash to fix yet)... but whatever gear wouldn't affect the front wheels right? So yeah if this is overdrive related and I'm in the right place then cool, if not any pointers would be great and we could move this.
Oh and the overdrive button and light works.
Thanks,
-Spencer
When you're cruising at over 60 mph and you're not accelerating or going up a hill, watch the tachometer and turn off the OD. If the OD is working you will see the revs go up and you'll feel it downshift. If nothing changes, then there might be an issue. Tim
PS: Allow the van to warm up before testing.
sooo, I see a speedometer on the left and on the right fuel and temp gauges. Is there a flip up tachometer in the glove box of these vans I don't know about yet?:doh:
Oh and for what it's worth, other than the dash light going on and off I can't feel any difference whether the O/D button is on or off. Does this perhaps signal overdrive could be the root of the issues described above?
Thanks,
-Spencer
Sometimes I forget that not all the vans have a tach because mine do. But still, if you're cruising in the final gear, and you turn off the cruise, you should feel it downshift. Not sure how fast you can drive on the island, but I'm assuming it's not hrs at a time @ 75 mph or higher. If you just have short hops of 60 mph or so, then you probably don't need it. If you do need it, or just want it fixed, then the 1st thing to do is disconnect your OD Thermo Switch on the side of the head. If that doesn't remedy, then you should put a 12V test light on the wire to the OD solenoid. You should be able to turn the test light on/off with the OD button. If you can make the test light go on/off with the switch, but can't hear a click/click, then the solenoid is shot. Tim
So how is it different for the four-wheel-drive version? I do have an 88 four-wheel-drive with automatic locking hubs and unfortunately no overdrive on the freeway. I have tried everything except for replacing the solenoid?
any hints?
The 4wd version isn't all that different. It's slightly more complicated due to the transmission temp sensor, but the same advice given in my last post would still be accurate and would apply to you too.
Is it possible that OD solenoids could get "clogged" with old dirty transmission fluid? Just a possible issue that has me wondering.
When mine failed, it was a long gradual process. It would still work if I drove long enough, but it was basically sticky/gummed-up. I probably could have cleaned & reworked it, but after 225k miles I figured it wasn't worth the effort. I put a good used one on out of one of my spare transmissions. Then I got one of those $40 Volvo OD solenoids to replace the one I robbed :thmbup:. TimQuote:
Originally Posted by WSG1970
Ok, hoping anyone can give me some advise. This site has been so helpful and I have been able to work on my favorite vehicle of choice. This problem has me totally confused.
I have a 88 TV it's an Auto. When I purchased it the previous owner said something about the transmission and it shifted and how went into overdrive sporadically with no given reason. He thought it was due to a short. I replaced the tranny and still the same problem, I replaced the relay switch and no luck. I took the while shiftier apart and the overdrive button and made sure there is no shorts anywhere. I also swapped out the over drive solenoid and the ECU.
Here is what happens. If i start the engine, as soon as i start it I hear a very fast clicking in the blue over drive switch. As soon as it RPM's settle then the fast clicking stops. It does go on overdrive sometimes if I am going over 45 and I hit the overdrive button on and off but it seems to down shift into 3rd without me accelerating. It almost seems like it does not want to go into overdrive no matter what I do. I am determined to figure this out and over come this overdrive problem.
Here is some questions.
1) Is there an overdrive computer? as I do hear some clicking in the dash
2) has anyone had this sort of problem before?
3) How should I proceed with the diagnostic.
Any help would be so appreciated.
Since you replaced the entire transmission (solenoid included), I think it's safe to rule that out. Probably pretty safe to rule out any of the other parts you replaced too. Have you disconnected the thermo switch yet? That should be the 1st thing you do. Tim
What Tim said. I had OD issues about five years ago while traveling through Colorado in November. First it just took longer than usual before OD would kick in, then it took forever and was eventually intermittent. Water thermo switch fixed it.
Not sure if anyone linked to this thread yes but it could be helpful.
Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
I have disconnected the thermal switch, that did not help. Is there an overdrive computer in the dash?
Thanks for that link brent (I had forgot about that thread). Echo, if it becomes too much hassle, and if you don't care about keeping everything stock, I'd just bypass via one of the methods I talked about in that thread. TimQuote:
Originally Posted by brentlehr
Thank you Tim... So again just to confirm there is nothing in the dashboard that would cause it. Should I assume that to be correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
Not really. Although it gets power from the ignition switch (AM1 circuit), then it goes through the fuse block (7.5A gauge fuse). If however the problem came from there you would have other issues (like problems with your gauges). If the gauges are fine, then you might try connecting the black wire to the red/blue wire in the plug to the relay (or ATM computer if it's a 4wd). Even just temporarily as that would be a good way to troubleshoot. If the OD begins consistently working, then you've just ruled out about half of the things that could be causing issue. Frankly, although I'm somewhat of a purist, I've began bypassing and redesigning electrical circuits in my van simply because the original design was stupid, overly complicated, or just plain worn out. I haven't had problems with my OD circuit yet (other than a failed solenoid), but if I did, I wouldn't hesitate to bypass.
Just yesterday I bypassed most of the front fan motor circuit in my 86 because it keeps burning out fuse blocks (can't get new, and used ones are already 30 years old). If you bypass the ATM computer/OD relay (red/blue to black) the circuit is still protected by the gauge fuse (so you're good there). You are merely disabling the things meant to inhibit OD operation. On the 2wd, these things are the on/off switch and the "water thermo switch" (IMO that thermo switch is absolutely unnecessary). On the 4wd there is one additional thing that shuts off the OD.........the "ATF Thermo Sensor". The ATF Thermo Sensor talks to the ATM computer. If the transmission gets too hot the ATM computer turns on a red warning light on your dash "A.T. Oil Temp" and the ATM computer turns off the OD (to protect and allow the transmission to cool down). That's not likely to ever happen, but if it does, and if the OD side of the ATM computer is bypassed, then you'd need to remember to turn off your OD. For this reason, if I were to bypass, I'd recommend bridging those wires (blue/red & black) with a switch. That way if you ever wanted it off, you could just flip the switch. Tim
Thank you Tim! I will try that.
FYI, I actually got my transmission hot enough once to activate that protective feature. I was driving in steep terrain on a hot summer day while towing a small cargo trailer. The van was full and trailer weight was around 600 lbs. I had been climbing for some time and van was working hard. Just as I crested the top the A.T. Oil Temp light came on. I started down the other side and due to the down-hill van was accelerating but failed to shift into OD. I watched the light, and as soon as it went out the van shifted into OD. It was kind of cool to see it work (had never seen it before or since).
Normally I don't like disabling things like this, but in reality that was an extreme situation that would likely never occur for most folks. If it ever did, you could simply turn it off manually and/or stop for a while to let the transmission cool. Tim