Article: Cleaning the Throttle Body

I'm a hand at 1st gen toy4x4 trucks having restoed 7 but total newby to the space van. Got a 4x4 5 manual and have a high idle problem. Could this be a bad dash pot and how can I either find one to buy or test the one I've got? Also, you mention just getting rid of it. What's the down side on that?

I love this forum. It's brought me face to face with feedback circuits and cpu unlike any of my 1st gen truck projects. Thanks for your enthusiastic contributions. I definitely am stoked for the help. Zman Kona PS Merry Christmas!

Hi Zman and welcome to TVT! I talked about this a little on post #3 of this thread. IMO there's very little downside (if any) to removing the dash pot. I never really understood why it was necessary in the 1st place, but was told it was to somehow reduce emissions. I can't imagine it making a big difference, but who knows. If yours is good, then leave it, but if it's sticking and causing the idle to be erratic, then that's a drive-ability issue. To me, a drive-ability issue trumps an emission issues (at least one this minuscule). If you're not sure if it's bad, then remove it and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn't then put it back on. Tim

The purpose of the dashpot is to keep the throttle from snapping shut when you shove in the clutch and suddenly back off the throttle. When the throttle is suddenly released and the engine de-cels rapidly, unburned fuel is dumped out the exhaust. By slowing the speed at which the throttle closes it mixes more air with the fuel and gives it a chance to burn more completely. It's not necessary on an automatic because the torque converter has the same effect. But ya, if it ain't working right, ditch it.

Are coolant hoses 16267-73010 and 16264-73021 still available? I’m striking out with those.

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Originally Posted by whatvan

Are coolant hoses 16267-73010 and 16264-73021 still available? I’m striking out with those.

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no longer available I just confirmed

link to McMaster-Carr M3.5 X 0.6 screws. Sold in qty of 100.

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~inch/thread-size~m3-5/length~16millimeters/

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i have a spare throttle body i was cleaning up as practice for cleaning the TB currently attached to my van.

While disassembling this TB, the plastic spacer for the springs (Circled in red) disintegrated.

when i get to the point in picture 2, will all that come off as one, or will the springs need to be unattached first? I attempted to disengage the springs from the piece that hits the throttle stop screw and thats when things fell apart.

is this piece replaceable (part number?)? Or, if this happens round 2 am i screwed? Anybody with a TB thats NFG got a spacer to donate/sell?

other than that, everything went swimmingly and metal parts are currently soaking in chem dip.

Hello everyone and Happy 4th!!

I got this TB from an automatic '86 van. I cleaned it and built a gasket. For the gasket is this what I need or do I need to make the other caps i have marked with red here?
My van is '84 manual, is it the same TB for auto and manual vans?

Thank you!

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Take a look at the 1st and 3rd posting on page 1 of this thread-

1st posting- auto TB
3rd posting - manual TB with Dashpot

If I’m understating correctly the 5 speed vans have a dashpot on the TB, I’m not sure if that means they are not interchangeable.

Whats the part number on your TB?

JDM

Guess who has high P/N idle after rebuild!

*me*

JDM thank you very much for your quick reply.
I think I'm not going to risk it, I will stay with my TB I have in my van now. I just have to take it and clean it. I though it will be faster for me to have an extra TB and work on it while I can drive the van too.

The number of the TB I took from the junk yard is 730 32.

Do you think the gasket is right?

I know the gasket is impossible to find (NLA) and some members have either made a gasket or used a gasket maker, sorry I don’t remember what it’s called. There’s a couple of different TB part numbers imprinted on various years TB’s, looks like the one Tim is rebuilding looks like 730-39. I’ve sold a couple of them but can find the posts, I think they were cleaned up during forum house keeping as old closed posts.

JDM

Although the TB gasket (Toyota part #22271-73011) is NLA through Toyota, these will occasionally come up on eBay and other sites as NOS "New Old Stock" (I just checked eBay but nothing is currently available). Compete Aftermarket gasket sets are still available and some will include this gasket: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...asket&_sacat=0 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...Desc=0&_sop=15. If you need to make one, Here's a picture of what it should look like and how the holes line up:

Can’t see the image

Tim thank you very much!! What's the best material for that?

I have seen youtube tutorial using this material:
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-77-...3994873&sr=8-3

and some auto shops selling these ones: (Tank fiber material)
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Originally Posted by Diy2k

Can’t see the image

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I posted 2 images........anybody else having trouble viewing?

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Originally Posted by iq_artwork

Tim thank you very much!! What's the best material for that?

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I'd probably avoid using cork here. Either one of the other 2 shown in your pics should work fine. I can't read the tan stuff, but can see the gray calls out gasoline, so unless the tan stuff says that too, I'd go with the gray. Tim

Tim thanks again!!

Hello everyone,
Today I tried to adjust my sensor on my TB. I bought a new Beck/Arbley #8945214020 from RockAuto.

Here's a video of my process, is this right?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJLJ5EfYvAQ

Video is private, Can you change to public view?

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Originally Posted by Jdelgado

Video is private, Can you change to public view?

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X2:doh:

Ops I'm sorry about that :).. I published it now.

My other question is,
I removed the feeler gauge and open and close the TB, do I need to have continuity all the time?

With the throttle against the stop you should have continuity through terminals IDL and E1. As you open the throttle you should lose continuity around .028 of travel. I watched your video and you did it right. Good job! Tim

Nice, Thank you very much Tim!!

Hi. All.
I have a 1998 commuter van with a 2.4L 2RZ-E motor.
The throttle body has Toyota 75 161 8J23 stamped on it .
It appears that it has a cold start system that must use water temperature to allow a lean mixture to idle up when cold.
Other throttle bodies I have seen use an electrical device to idle up when cold?
I am having trouble with getting stable idle.
I am wondering if there is some sort of thermostat in the throttle body that may stick occasionally?
I have checked the TPS and MAP sensor (testok) removed and cleaned throttle body but did not disassemble the device where the two water pipes attach (water flowed thru these pipes unrestricted when tested). Mike

Hi all,
New to the forum, new to Toyota vans.
Recently bought a 1989 2wd A/T van to fix up into a camping/road trip vehicle. Had no issues driving it home after buying.
So, drove about 2 hrs somewhere, no issues. Driving home I stopped for gas, filled er up and just cranking and cranking...no start. Luckily I had a hammer on me and gave the starter a whack and started right up. So I assumed it was the starter, right? Bought and installed a new starter, same issue. So I went down the rabbit hole of replacing parts. Not much new on the van when I bought it, so it was probably time for most of the parts to be replaced anyway.

Coil, cap, rotor, plugs and wires, fuel filter. Didn't fix the issue. So I decided to check for codes. Threw a 5-1. So I now assume it's the TPS. Got a new one and ready to install but after lurking through the forums here I realize it needs to be calibrated. Noticed a member posted a video on just that procedure but it looks as though the link is broken. So...

Can anyone help me with the procedure for calibrating the TPS?

Also, open to suggestions as to what the issue maybe. Searching the forums and finding a few people with similar issues...crank but no start. It was really hot that day...heard about the hot soak issues. It's weird to me that knocking the starter worked that first time. I did push it away from the pump, so maybe that did something?

Thanks for any and all help! :thmbup:

What your looking for is located in "articles"

Cleaning the Throttle Body

Yes, I read that article and cleaned the throttle body. Unfortunately the link to the video says it's not available in my country (U.S.) due to copyright laws and there's no explanation on resetting TPS in article.

Hi Jessey, :wave2: I merged your new thread with an existing one of same subject matter. Please go to post #1 and watch the video at the end of it. When I updated this thread with a different video I had neglected to update the one in the article section. I'll go change that now. FYI, when making posts, please search and find a thread of similar subject matter and post in that. It helps keep the forum clean and helps the search feature to work better. Thank you and welcome to TVT :wave1:! Tim

Thanks! Ended up finding video on YouTube from post #138. I'll give it a shot.

Hello, my name is Isaac, I am from Mexico, I have an automatic toyota van 89 2wd, I had not encouraged myself to ask for help since I tried to solve it with what I found in the forum, my van has the problem of loss of power , unstable idle in drive and reverse, speeds do not enter on time, when I jump the check engine connector, it flashes repeatedly and if I activate the accelerator it gives me code 51, I already checked the tps sensor and if it was out of calibration since it stopped check continuity up to 0.038 and calibrate it to 0.028 thanks to topics on this forum, but there is no difference in the operation of the van, I checked my tps sensor with the parameters of the 87 service manual and everything matches, so how can I check the signals from the ecu to the sensor? Or do I have to change my sensor even if it complies with the values ​​in the service manual?

I use the translator but I hope I make myself understood, thank you very much 🙏

updating check voltage at terminals E1 - IDL and PSW-E1 on the ecu, everything is correct, to exist continuity from the ecu to the tps harness terminals.

output voltages at harness terminals:

PSW: 11.50
E1: 0.04
LDI: 11.15

Are those voltages correct?

I set the TPS in the van this weekend, and it cleared the 5-1 code that had been having.