The fusible link thread

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Originally Posted by 87spaceghostc2c

If i use a jumper it starts right up but i dont want to keep doing that. Ive changed the alternator and i have a brand new battery so i feel like its the starter or that FL. Oddly sometimes it will start on its own without the jumper but rarely.

Oh i will also add until the new alternator i had permanent Christmas lights, now when i first get it started the lights are on but then they cut off and then when im driving down the street they will all randomly flash...

also need a new windshield but that's a different pain in the butt finding the thing for a different thread.

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I'd test the battery cables for resistance, and make sure every connection is "Clean Bright and tight" you are halfway there on the Xmas lighting. The starter needs no resistance for it to run.


I found a reasonable deal on the windshield and new rubber, and I had it installed by a mobile service.

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Originally Posted by 89van

not positive what drivetrain your van has but here's an opinion* on both:

-If your van has a manual transmission: There is a Clutch Safety Switch and a Starter Relay. I would check this relay (Sometimes if relays click, it doesn't mean it's good necessarily!) and the switch for proper operation; an intermittent start sounds like it could be a bad relay imo.

-If your van has an automatic, we have a Neutral Start Switch; this switch allows the starter to engage only in N or P; have you checked if the issue continues if you put it in P then into N, and vice versa?



As for the christmas lights, I believe there is a thread on here that discusses them, search tool will help a lot here. If your alternator is going full-field, that is not good at all! Well undercharging isn't good either too.
*I've had starter troubles in the past; starters for these vans haven't been made in decades and Remanufactured ones are a hit or miss unfortunately. Also consulting my 1989 wiring diagram too from a brisk flip through.

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Thanks for the response it is an automatic transmission i went ahead and updated profile to clear that up in the future. I have not yet tried this in N only in P i think i was frustrated to the point of not thinking about that. I had previously done some research and read that this was a potential factor(neutral start switch). Ordered a remanufactured starter last night so hopefully i can figure something out before it gets here and return it. Regardless ill keep the old one too. Id rather have not bought that.

Reading about the alternator potentially going full field is what made me think about the FL in the first place. As well as noticing my lights were flashing in a weird way. Ill check out that thread as well.
Ill be honest i knew nothing of this type of fuse until i got this van.(vans 3 years older than me)

also going to test for resistance and clean all my connections up. I appreciate the advice!

I kept having the "click" problem on my starter, even with new starters. I eventually checked the voltage coming from the starter solenoid wire. It was only 9-11v, which I guess wasn't enough to reliably engage the solenoid. I disconnected the few connectors on that wire and cleaned them up with electrical contact cleaner. Now the voltage is higher and it starts every time. I don't know if this could be something to do with your starter issues, but it wouldn't cause weird lights in the dash.

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Originally Posted by MarkH

I kept having the "click" problem on my starter, even with new starters. I eventually checked the voltage coming from the starter solenoid wire. It was only 9-11v, which I guess wasn't enough to reliably engage the solenoid. I disconnected the few connectors on that wire and cleaned them up with electrical contact cleaner. Now the voltage is higher and it starts every time. I don't know if this could be something to do with your starter issues, but it wouldn't cause weird lights in the dash.

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Finally have a day to try this so i plan to. Weird enough the past two days i got in the van started it up it sounded new no lights flashing. Super confused. It did remind me that the previous owner gave me a list and one of those things was a "wet start" issue. Its been raining the past week. I also personally thing the battery connections are over exposed and i still dont think it would hurt to clean the starter. I would like to know why this thing wouldn't want to start when its been raining alot.

The previous owner definitely did stuff to benefit this van but now its like playing wheres waldo. I need to find his number.

I'm trying to replace the FL 1.25b in my 87.
I believe that's what I'm replacing - p/o pulled the FL1.25b wire up into the battery box and replaced them with something that is completely fried - only thing i can identify are the white and white/blue wires running to it.

I've read through this thread and determined I need an 80A slow blow fuse and some type of holder, however i haven't been able to figure out which holder would be suitable.

Has anyone used a MIDI fuse as a replacement? I believe MIDI fuses have a different melt/fusing rating and am hesitant to swap in 80A MIDI for the FL if they aren't the same.

Hello everybody, just joined and I already have questions. Thanks in advance!
I am going through my "New to me Van" and trying to rectify and replace worn things. I came accross the Fuse Box in the engine compartment, and it didn't close. That AM1 fuse was too big, for cover to close. I tried to look at it, and it just comes off (first clue) and metal tabs stay sticking out of fuse box. I was wondering if the previous owner tried to remove it, and pretty much broke it off.
My question is, is the replacement supposed to be a "Female" as was there, or do I need to get a "Male" one and remove those "tabs" off? I followed the links, and Name to search in this thread, but google gives me both options to choose from. I am new to this!
I got pictures, but not sure how to share.

Year make and model? are you in a first gen van, or a second gen Previa?

Sorry, 1987 Toyota Van 4WD.

OK I had to replace that fuse 2 years back

1. its a bolt in! did the PO that do that properly?

2. NAPA has the right part, Toyota upgraded from the original 60 to an 80A. they are cheap so I bought 2... in fact, I bought all values for that panel...

3. be sure to disconnect the neg term on the battery before messing with it!

4. I used several extensions and worked from the bottom.

Thanks for the response! My question was if that one fuse is supposed to be a Female, or a Male type. I actually went to NAPA and they're the ones that brought it up. They said for me to make sure I needed one or the other because they do different functions. The previous owner seemed to have changed it. When I remove the fuse, it is a female type, and two prongs or tabs stay in the fuse box. It seems to me odd that they're in rough shape, and that I can't close the Fuse Box with the fuse on. LIke it doesn't sit all the way in.
My fear is that the previous owner ripped the original fuse out (without unbolting it) left the Fuse Tabs in there, and then used a female 60 amp type there and called it a day. Left the Fuse Box opened...

These are what I replaced and what with (My spare):

Attachment 13527