The WHAT-IS-THIS-PART and WHAT'S-THE-PART-NUMBER Thread for US Toyota Vans 1984-1989

Thank you very much for your answers!! For the first pic which is the temp switch, is it easy to find and install?

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Originally Posted by iq_artwork

Thank you very much for your answers!! For the first pic which is the temp switch, is it easy to find and install?

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Yup

https://www.amazon.com/Original-Engine-Management-9334-Temperature/dp/B000CSQBG2/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=temperature+switch&pd_rd_r=9b8 fb368-5b98-422c-b1ea-2a4b1eb93d6e&pd_rd_w=VKoWP&pd_rd_wg=4PLgd&pf_rd_p= 69d18130-6e8f-49ee-b708-7afee8d6d397&pf_rd_r=YB3XZJRA33KJ19ZNKSXG&qid=1553 489592&s=automotive&sr=1-7&vehicle=1987-76-942-995--49-8-8-4776-1893-9-1-1996-191-&vehicleName=1987+Toyota+Van

Attachment 8684the part i'm looking is the idle up temp switch #8942820050 and I believe i found it on RockAuto.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=257&jsn=257


I don't think I need to buy it, i just don't know how to reconnect the disconnected cable? Can you please help.

Thank you very much!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iq_artwork

Attachment 8684the part i'm looking is the idle up temp switch #8942820050 and I believe i found it on RockAuto.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=257&jsn=257


I don't think I need to buy it, i just don't know how to reconnect the disconnected cable? Can you please help.

Thank you very much!!

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That particular plug will need to be repaired. If it were me, I would take the female part of the plug off and use a crimp for now until you fix or replace the broken one.

The idle up temp switch isn't going to have any ill consequences if you fore go it for a while though... thats the good news

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iq_artwork

Attachment 8684the part i'm looking is the idle up temp switch #8942820050 and I believe i found it on RockAuto.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=257&jsn=257


I don't think I need to buy it, i just don't know how to reconnect the disconnected cable? Can you please help.

Thank you very much!!

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That's your "pressure-up" temperature switch. With the changing gas markets it's pretty useless (way out of range for the boiling temp of modern gasoline). Just leave the sensor disconnected and connect that wire to ground. Connecting the wire to ground will send a signal to your ECU telling it the engine is running hot, and that will increase the fuel pressure for ~2 minutes after each start-up. With summer coming on that will help combat the effects of HEAT SOAK. Tim

In the middle of doing my distributor cap, plug wires and plugs I noticed a busted wire, maybe to a thermostat or something? To the left of the opened up distributor with green on it going into the engine. What is that?

Tim thank you very much!!!!

I don’t know how my comment got mixed in here,here but is that the same thing I’m referring to? Pressure up switch?

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Originally Posted by Brett5cent

In the middle of doing my distributor cap, plug wires and plugs I noticed a busted wire, maybe to a thermostat or something? To the left of the opened up distributor with green on it going into the engine. What is that?

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That picture is a bit rough, but I think you're referring to the overdrive temperature sensor. IMO this is another useless sensor. It's job is to prevent overdrive operation when engine temp is below 130° F. If/when the sensor becomes disconnected the overdrive will function at all engine temperatures (big disaster). I'm not sure why Toyota even bothered to put that there, but I've had that sensor go bad before and it caused my overdrive to stop working. All I did was disconnect it and I got my OD back again.

When I work on a van, if I need a sensor port for an aftermarket gauge, I will typically remove that sensor and use that port. It won't hurt anything to leave the wire hang as long as it's not able to touch anything conductive. If it somehow gets grounded your overdrive will stop working. If you find the wire hanging, just wrap some electrical tape around it. Tim

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Originally Posted by timsrv

That picture is a bit rough, but I think you're referring to the overdrive temperature sensor. IMO this is another useless sensor. It's job is to prevent overdrive operation when engine temp is below 130° F. If/when the sensor becomes disconnected the overdrive will function at all engine temperatures (big disaster). I'm not sure why Toyota even bothered to put that there, but I've had that sensor go bad before and it caused my overdrive to stop working. All I did was disconnect it and I got my OD back again.

When I work on a van, if I need a sensor port for an aftermarket gauge, I will typically remove that sensor and use that port. It won't hurt anything to leave the wire hang as long as it's not able to touch anything conductive. If it somehow gets grounded your overdrive will stop working. If you find the wire hanging, just wrap some electrical tape around it. Tim

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perfect. Thanks for the info Tim. You are THE MAN.

I searched thru a bunch of threads but could seem to locate which these might be.

Can anyone assist based on pics or point me to the relevant thread please?

Thx!

Hello guys,

for my disconnect cold start igniter cable, I'm planning to buy a new one and replace it. I found few at the Rockauto but not sure, are all of them the same? Which one do you recommend me to get?
Or can you send me please the part number.

thank you!!
iordanisAttachment 8781

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Originally Posted by cpginkpt

I searched thru a bunch of threads but could seem to locate which these might be.

Can anyone assist based on pics or point me to the relevant thread please?

Thx!

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Check out the fusible link thread my man... should answer all your Q/A there. :wnk:

no hoses anywhere near it - and looks shiny like it just got exposed. Any ideas?

Looks like a grease fitting.

That is the bleed port for the clutch. Sometimes it has a dust cap. Not required.

cool. thank you!

Those silly little condoms that come on all bleeder screws are worth their weight in gold.

I had to learn that lesson the hard way, many times over, before I finally clued in.
That little rubber cap keeps out the dirt and moisture.
If there is no dirt and moisture, there is no rust!

I have NEVER snapped a bleeder screw that had its rubber in place.
Its always the naked ones that become one with their housing.
A seized/broken bleeder is a pita to remove and more often than not requires the entire component be replaced and that gets expensive fast

I keep a package of them on hand at all times as they are easy to lose and they deteriorate with age.

makes sense to me - will assume the caps are just a Napa thing unless you reply otherwise.

Thanks!

Cant say if its a Napa thing or not.
I get mine from the dealer.

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...ype/102945_0_0
https://www.ebay.com/p/Brake-Bleeder-Screw-Caps-Grease-Zerk-Fitting-Cap-Rubber-Dust-Cover-25-PC-Protect/1272702752?iid=111903200961&chn=ps

I bet Napa has them too.:wnk:

someday I will learn to read a wiring diagram - in the meantime I keep trying to back my way into the rogue wires.

Any ideas on where this one goes?

Seems like it would connect near the radiator cap somewhere. Got a sketchy wire there already but no room for a 3rd connection that I can see.

BONUS CLUE - my radiator light is always on.

There’s a thread that outlines all the ports around the filler neck but I’m not able to locate it at this time, as for your radiator light “staying on” your low on coolant, loosing coolant somewhere or your overflow bottle sensor has gone out??

Here’s a thread on “radiator overflow bottle sensor”

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ht=Filler+neck

Hope this helps, this may not be the problem but it’s an excellent read:thmbup:

JDM

on it - not leaking any coolant but thanks for the link JDM, I love going deep on these issues regardless.

sketchy wire is to brown thermal time switch, cold start injector...youre in maine? fix it(btw that sensor is expensive)....fix the other green wiring too as thats the sensor for ecu to read coolant temp and adjust fuel....the lost wire should be grounded, it was for a hot soak fuel pressure bump up for 2 mins? but its better to just ground it so it bumps up every start.

thank you!

I'm assuming this one is California's fault, but I couldn't find it in this thread or any others google gave me:

Attachment 8933

to help triangulate - that's between the airbox, battery, and exhaust, runs up and taped to the O2 sensor wire.

That's your Throttle Position Sensor harness connection. On the back side of the throttle body there's a black plastic box. The connector in your picture should be plugged into that.

Here's a thread that features the throttle body and the TPS:

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...-Throttle-Body

Thanks Tim, I never would have caught that the way it was taped so far down to the sensor wires. I’m wondering if that was responsible for the way she’s always bogging down after puddles.

OK - here's one I could use some help with compatibility on ... I'm looking for part #22230-73011 Auxiliary Air Valve which is NLA. (For '85-'88)

HOWEVER - the part #22230-73010 Auxiliary Air Valve for an '84-'86 is possibly available (and also one that I can probably go get from a junkyard)

It says that #22230-73010 has been REPLACED by #22230-73011... Does this mean I can use 73010 in 73011 applications? My concern is the 2.0 Vs 2.2 L engines, but maybe it's pretty much just the same valve? I don't really want to pull my manifold if it won't fit :)

Attachment 9034
Attachment 9035

Links if that his helpful:
73010: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...0=YR22LG-MDEA)
73011: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...230-73011.html

If one replaces the other then I'd have to say either one would work. I have been looking for one of these for a while with zero success. At one time there were at least 2 or 3 aftermarket manufacturers that made these, but none of those are out there any more either. If you find a source, please post as I'd be willing to pay up to $300 for a new one. Tim

I believe Nissan makes it. There are many version but all look the same. Just make sure the mount is like ours. Rock Auto has some of these you may want to check out

MT

I don't think Rock Auto has these (at least not one made to fit the van). They used to, but now under that title they only show Idle-up Diaphragms. If anybody finds one that is compatible and will interchange (without reinventing the wheel), please post a link. Thank you. Tim

OK thank you for all the help so far. i just looked under the car and saw this that freaked me out. what is the name of this part
and what's my issue here? what should i do? call it quits on the car or is it and ok fix? the car turns on and sound good so far and drives well.

I don't know an exact name for that part but it is definitely cause for concern. It is a structural crossmember crucial to the strength and integrity of the rear suspension. Also, in the upper left of the picture it appears one of the floor crossmembers has rusted through as well. These are unibody vehicles and every component is important to the strength and safety of the overall structure. Anything is repairable if you are willing to spend the time and/or money to male it happen. I would definitely have someone qualified take a look at that if it's outside of your comfort or skills.

thanks for the response thats what i figured to if anyone knows the name please let me know so i an look for the part

I believe this is how it should look like. it probably part of the axel assembly but just want to find name im searching and searching. so ican get a guessistmate on price and see if a junk yard might have it

That's funny, that screenshot is from my van. I'm glad the video has been useful.

Anyhow, there really isn't a name, or a "part" that can be purchased. That is a structural (welded in) part of the unibody used to attached the upper 4 link arms.

To fix it, a fabricator would need to cut out the old piece, fabricate a replacement, and weld it in.

I'm guessing if that has rusted that bad it may not be something that can be repaired easily. I say that because where the fabricator would attach a fabricated 4 link mount would need to be structurally sound and rust free for welding

yeah i saw your video and grab that shot lol. thank you. im looking all online and i totally understand what your saying. im still fixing other things in the car with my son brakes, rims, rotors. i do want to fix this. its all aslow process. i got under to see the the rust and yeah its pretty rusted i can still crab some metal pieces from end to end. i think welding would be possible. i would have to my mechanic to get some idea. i think everyone thinks im crazy but i dont want to give up on the car. any other pointers or ideas would be much appreciated!

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Originally Posted by VanCo

That's funny, that screenshot is from my van. I'm glad the video has been useful.

Anyhow, there really isn't a name, or a "part" that can be purchased. That is a structural (welded in) part of the unibody used to attached the upper 4 link arms.

To fix it, a fabricator would need to cut out the old piece, fabricate a replacement, and weld it in.

I'm guessing if that has rusted that bad it may not be something that can be repaired easily. I say that because where the fabricator would attach a fabricated 4 link mount would need to be structurally sound and rust free for welding

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I don't think you're crazy. I have about $10k in engine, turbo and overlanding gear on one of mine, and yet you can put your finger through most of the body panels. Wait, maybe we're both crazy?