Help please no spark

I need ideas please people. My 95 Spacia won't start.
YR22 4Y

Has been running fine with no issues. Left the headlights on last night for over an hour, van started fine without hiccups, then turned it off after a minute.
When I went to start it 45 minutes later nothing. Cranks but just won't ignite. Pulled a lead and it seems I have no spark. The only other thing I noticed is a knocking noise from the throttle area when pushing the accelerator down.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Scott

They quit exporting the vans to the states back in 89, so not sure how similar a 95 Spacia is to our vans. Is it fuel injected or carbureted? If it's got the coil inside the distributor, that's a common failed part. Pop the distributor cap and check the coil for cracks, bulges, or burn marks. You should also check it for resistance. Assuming it's the same as ours, the primary coil resistance (between the + and - terminals) should measure at 1.2 - 1.5 ohms (however it's not unusual to see a good coil measure outside of these specs as I've seen good ones measure down below .5 ohms). The important thing here is it measures on the low end. The secondary resistance (between the + and high-tension terminals) should measure between 7.7 - 10.4 k ohms.

If you don't already have a service manual for your specific model I would recommend you get one. Tim

Thanks for the response Tim,

They never made a manual specifically for the Spacia which is a pain in the butt.

Motor wise they are very similar to the early models just a few different wiring connections more than anything. Fuel injected and yes the coil in the distributor so looks like I'll be checking that when I tow it home tomorrow.

Will let you know how I go or if I need other suggestions.

Scott

Tim,

I'm getting 1.7 reading on the primary coil and 8.8 on the secondary coil when testing. Would the small difference of .2 higher be the issue?

Also i noticed the rotor arm and terminal posts in the cap were burnt and pitted. Only after 11 months.

Await your help.

Scott

Check codes and report back. Of course I have no idea what codes were used in 95. I'm guessing the same as 88-89 US vans??? Your coil could still be bad, but based on resistance I would assume it's good. If you truly don't have spark the ECU should be displaying a code. If that's the case then perhaps the igniter is bad. If there's no code then it may be time to move on to the fuel system. Do you have access to a parts vehicle?

PS: With your key in the "run" position, is your check engine light illuminated?

I had a similar experience with my '89 4WD van. My van was blowing the "Gauge" 7.5 Amp fuse in the fuse block. It would crank and crank, but no spark. It never set any trouble code!

Once the "Gauge" fuse was replaced, it would crank and immediately start. I went through several of the "Gauge" fuses, then the issue mysteriously went away, with no subsequent problem! However, I carry several of these fuses (and all of the other ones) with me - just in case I should ever need to replace them again. Good luck!

Thanks Montex, fuses was one of the first things I checked and sadly it wasn't that simple a fix. Will just have to keep eliminating things me thinks. Off to check the codes

Update:

I have spark, don't ask me how because I don't know and i'm not complaining.

No error codes are present and i have fuel, well up to the injectors anyways.

So now I am really stumped.

Help please.

Scott

Are you saying that it's running again?

whoops, no it's still not starting hence why i'm stumped.

If you got spark & fuel, then the only thing that will prevent running is timing. Does the cranking sound normal when you run the starter? Any back-fires or pops through the intake?

Thanks Tim,

Will look into the timing in the morning. Would that make it not start suddenly with out any warning? ie the van has been running fine until it wouldn't start. Also any idea on the knocking coming from the throttle body while the accelerator is depressed?

Scott

It would if the timing chain skipped a few teeth or if the distributor gear sheer pin broke. If the timing chain skipped compression would be affected & it would sound "unusual" while cranking. How many miles/kilometers are on the van? Not sure about the "knocking". How loud is it? Make sure the throttle body hose is secure and clamped. Tim

Check the plugs to make sure they aren't fouled or wet with gas. I once had a fuel pressure regulator blow on me that resulted in an extremely rich mixture = no start. Even after I changed the regulator I still needed to change the plugs to get it to start.

Good luck.

That's a good point. It would also be a good idea to pull a plug to make sure gas is making it into the cylinders. Just because gas is in the fuel rail doesn't mean the injectors are firing. If gas is getting into the cylinders the plugs should be a bit wet and smell like gas. Another thing you might try is spraying a shot of ether into the throttle body then see if it fires (make sure you put the air intake hose back on before attempting to start). Please answer the following:

1. How many miles/kilometers are on the van?
2. When you said you had spark, how did you verify that?
3. How did you verify fuel pressure?
4. With the key in the "run" position, is the "Check Engine Light" on your dash illuminated?
5. When you checked codes did you get the "all clear" code?.........or did the CEL not blink at all?
6. Does the cranking sound normal (even pulses)?
7. When cranking are there any pops or back fires through the intake or out the exhaust?
8. Do you have easy access to a parts vehicle?

So not much to update with as rain h stopped me being able to do anything.

After reading the responses I'm thinking fuel problem. The plugs are dry upon removal. Going to tinker with it again in the morning (about 17hours) as I'm heading to work now

1. How many miles/kilometers are on the van?
365909 km's (Fully reco head installed twelve months ago and had no issues with it till now)

2. When you said you had spark, how did you verify that?
Pulled a plug and saw the spark on crank

3. How did you verify fuel pressure?
cracked open the banjo on the fuel rail

4. With the key in the "run" position, is the "Check Engine Light" on your dash illuminated?
Yes and i don't get any faults, assuming i'm jumping the correct pins (see pic)
http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/...psa3492528.jpg
jumping TE1 and E1

5. When you checked codes did you get the "all clear" code?.........or did the CEL not blink at all?
See above

6. Does the cranking sound normal (even pulses)?
sounds as normal as it ever has. Sounds like it starting every other time just won't fire

7. When cranking are there any pops or back fires through the intake or out the exhaust?
Nope

8. Do you have easy access to a parts vehicle?
Sadly these models are very rare so no. I do have though a spare injector rail with injectors and a spare throttle body.

Oh, you have a Previa type diagnostic box........Vanwagons never had anything fancy like that. Try installing a jumper (metal paper clip will work good) between the terminals B+ and FP. After the jumper is in place, turn the key to the "run" position, and you should hear the sound of fuel traveling through the system. If you put your ear to the tank you should also be able to hear the pump running. If you hear the pump running and fuel flowing, try to start it. If it starts then pull the jumper and see if it continues to run.

If you get no pump sound & no sounds of moving fuel, then you have a fuel issue. Anyhow, check that out and report back. Tim

tim, did your test, didn't hear the fuel but, i have fuel everywhere it seems and you can smell it when trying to start the car.

:wall:

what is really throwing me is the fact it just wouldn't start after running fine 45 minutes earlier. grrrrrrrrrrr

so i await more thoughts on my issue.

just as a side thought, if i have to pull the throttle body off to get to the injectors, i may as well put the spare ones in I have, so my question on that is should i be cleaning them before i do this and what should i be doing to them.

scott

If you did the test as I described and there was no fuel flowing then you have a problem with the fuel system. The most likely culprit is the fuel pump or maybe a circuit opening relay. The next test is to see if the fuel pump is getting any power while doing that test. If it's got power but no fuel is flowing (will be audible), then you have a bad fuel pump. Tim

Tim everyone in this house is now calling you a hero.

Fuel pump replaced and it runs.

New question, now that it's running i'm going to double check the timing while the engine cover is off, so: Do I need to jump TE1 and E1 to do the timing as the manual says or do i just set it straight to 20 BTDC?

Scott