Cornering light operation and removal

The cornering light has to come out first before the trim can come out, one screw is under there. Chiltons shows only two screws holding it in, but after removal of the screws, something else was holding it in. After a few hours of pulling this way and that with no success, it broke, then I was able to see the mystery. There's a tapered post coming out of the back of the light at an angle which goes into a grommet in the frame. To remove the light after the screws are out, you have to pull it out at a 45* angle away from the corner of the van. This post was in there very tight and may have broke even if I had pulled the right way because the plastic is brittle on these old lights. I super glued it together and put it all back together, but I don't think that will hold for long. Will be looking for another intact cornering light. So beware and be careful when taking out the cornering light, best to wiggle it out gently.

So what's up with those lights on the side if the van, right at the front? The one on the left side of my van comes on and off at random. Its as bright as a headlight, and when it comes on, it aims over into the left lane, and off into the woods on the far side of the road. Where those meant to come on with the turn signals, to help uou see through a turn, or something like that?

Thanks
Andy

They're referred to as cornering lights. They're controlled by thev unit under the rh side of the dash.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chi-Town

They're referred to as cornering lights. They're controlled by thev unit under the rh side of the dash.

---

Thanks. So what prompts them to turn on? Turn signals? Or is there some sort of G-sensor in that unit you mentioned?

They are controlled by the turn signal switch. They should only come on when the turn signal is fully turned on. If you move the turn signal lever to the lane change position where it's blinking but not locked on then it won't light the cornering lamps.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by originalkwyjibo

They are controlled by the turn signal switch. They should only come on when the turn signal is fully turned on. If you move the turn signal lever to the lane change position where it's blinking but not locked on then it won't light the cornering lamps.

---

Thanks!

I'm replacing my headlights on my 89 van, but I'm having trouble removing the cornering lights. I have removed 2 screws that are on the outside of the cornering lights and one that is sort of hidden beneath. But something I can't see seems to be holding it on still. Any tips?

On the back of the light towards the front there is a post that is angled(Try to visualize it pointing towards the front seat on the opposite side of the van from where the light is located). It has a flared portion that snaps into a rubber grommet. With age these grommets have gotten hard and the plastic light housings where the metal post attaches brittle. They are often broken presumably from incorrect removal or brittle plastic so be careful. Once the two screws are removed from the rear edge of the lens, you want to carefully pull the assembly forward and out but mostly forward. This will remove the cornering lamp from the headlamp bezel. After that there are several screws holding the headlamp bezel in place. It is attached similarly to the one in this post http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...nt-door-hinges but with the obvious difference of the cornering lamp.

:whs: Another thing I sometimes do with stubborn ones is slap the lens with my open hand and deliver the slap with a forward motion. It takes a special touch (which you will develop after a few times). That sometimes works well, but other times there is nothing you can do as the backing of the light is doomed to break. This is why I always take cornering lights from salvage yards (whenever I find a good one). If/when they break, they can be glued and reinstalled, but once broken/repaired, they will likely break again (each time you remove). Tim

Thank you!

Using patience and plastic panel removal tools (after removing 2 screws) still damaged my corner lights.:pissed::pissed::wall: Applied pressure in pulling light out at 45 degree (along the plane that the pin is located)
What is the secret to removing these w/o breaking these highlighted parts?
Had to close up shop and go to bed before exacting revenge on the plastic gods.
Trying to retrofit new light assemblies and OEM fogs before dropping van off to be painted.
Argggh!Attachment 4810
thanks Josh

If I had a $ for each F... word that came out of my mouth doing this I would be rich!

A couple things that did make it easier but no silver bullet:

1 I seat myself on a stool like I'm going to milk a cow, 'cause that's about how long its going to take!

2 I keep an old(broken) light in front of me so as I pull I can visualise what is going on in the back of the good one and remind myself of what will happen if I F... It up again! BING 1$!

3 remove the screws holding the light and start pulling/ prying gently at 45 degrees while praying to the plastic gods (prying and praying can't be bad.. Right?)

4 As soon as I see the screws to the headlight frame located in the back of the light, I remove them and the others too so the frame is loose allowing it to move with the corner light a bit, instead of having to pry over and clear the F... frame! BANG another $

5 As soon as I can peek at the pin from the top ( flash light helps) I hit it with W40 with the straw on the can. Even light corrosion on the pin will stick to the rubber grommet and resist against the prying leading to disaster and a lot of $.

6 When the light is out and intact, thanks the plastic Gods and count your $!

Please Admin. be easy on me as I have sinned :wnk:

A hook tool and a can of silicon spray are a must for dealing with old plastic and rubber. I have used the hook to just slightly pick up an old hose and squirt some silicon in.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-66836.html

-Jim

Is it possible to remove just the lens from the cornering light assembly?

The cornering lens is busted on my van, and I found a good one, can't seem to get any of the (what appear to be) 4 clips to depress and remove just the clear lens part.

Any help welcome!

. It was a hard plastic then, now 30 year later it is an even harder and brittle plastic. You will have to brake the clips or the retainers on the housing (more likely). Reseal every thing (I used hot glue) 100%, make sure there is no way for water to get in, the bulb and socket will corrode very fast.
Attachment 8670

Here you can see the broken tabs that the clips normally grab onto
Attachment 8671

Had to make a jig to hold them in place during the hot gluing process
Attachment 8672

Handle with care, by brittle I mean really brittle :yes:

Carbonized,


daaaaang what part of your van hasn’t been touched by your magic hands!!:bluevan::thmbup::bluevan:

JDM

What he said!! Thanks Carbonized. Good info, ideas, pics. :thmbup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM VANMAN

Carbonized,


daaaaang what part of your van hasn’t been touched by your magic hands!!:bluevan::thmbup::bluevan:

JDM

---

Anyone know what bulb the cornering light takes? My left one has never worked, pulled it off to check the bulb number and there's no bulb :doh:

The OE Toyota part number is 99132-11270 which is equivalent to an 1156 automotive bulb. A better choice may be to put an LED up there. Any LED that replaces 1156, BA15S, 1003, 1141, or 7506 will work. The original incandescent bulb pulled 27 watts. LED's produce comparable light while only using about 20% of the wattage, so to keep original intensity find one that pulls ~ 5 or 6 watts. You could literally make it 5X brighter without over taxing the circuit...........but that could potentially blind any driver who happens to look that direction while you're changing lanes :shock:. Tim

Thanks Tim!