Power steering using alot of fluid!

Okay folks, got a little issue I'd like to nip in the bud before it turns into a bigger issue.

My power steering unit has been using ATF fluid. Seems like I need to top it off every few weeks to a month. I didn't think much of it, heck, just top it off every so often no big deal.

Today, I'm under the van because I have this pesky coolant return hose clamp that likes to loosen up and drip coolant. The radiator light went on around a corner and when I popped the engine compartment open, sure enough there were some drops of coolant around that hose and I got a few turns on the clamp with a screwdriver.

Thats how I got here. I went under the van with my flashlight just to make sure there weren't any other drip spots and I noticed my alternator has ATF (cherry juice!) on it.

Now that kinda sucks! Now the whole issue with the power steering seems a little more serious since it seems like my alternator is getting a bath it doesn't want!

I know there's a hose that can go out and do this, but, I'm pretty sure the previous owner of the van replaced this hose with the expensive factory one before I bought the van. I need to check my papers on this but I seem to remember this.

Any other places to look for as far as leaks w/ the power steering? I couldn't see much underneath. Right now the power steering is empty, I ran out of ATF, so I don't think its leaking too much but it has leaked enough over the past months that there is still some on the alternator.

Any leads/ideas would be great!

mark in Philly

1987 4wd runnin' strong!

Oh, on the same topic but in a different direction, I thought why not disable the PS by removing the belt and then dealing with it later?

Then I saw a post elsewhere that said this about the topic:

"every one in this comunnity knows about the recal on the bevel gear of the generation 2 vans cuased by the lack of assitence when turning the wheel with the engine stopped.
i think that was the description on the nhtsa report.
no ps assit; turn the steering wheel enough times; the bevel gear develops a stress crack and you end up twisted like a pretzel around a light post
so i suggest you keep the ps pump running. different steering systems but why agravete the situacion?"

Is this really true? Thats kinda scary.

Oh I did check and it looks like the return hose and another hose where replaced very recently but not the pump.

mark

Here's a thread on power steering system leaks: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...-Steering-Leak . I agree with the other poster about the recall. IMO it's unlikely to you'll destroy the gear box, but why tempt fate? Besides, the van is more fun to drive when you have working power steering. Good luck. Tim

Well I found the leak.

Its coming from the outlet of the pump where the pressure line comes out. You can see ATF seep out when I turn the wheel, dripping fluid right in the vicinity of the alternator. Shoot!

It sorta seems like there is enough room to get at this section, but I'm not sure what rings/gaskets are in that section, and if I can order them through Toyota (there's a dealer a few blocks from my house).

Also would it be just a matter of undoing the bolts there and replacing the gaskets? I've never had to remove a pressure fitting like this before.

Also, in the pic you'll see a metal tab/bar the spans the pressure line nut to the bigger nut thats on the body of the pump. Whats this for?Attachment 396

thanks for all the help so far!

mark

Oh I'm looking at the FSM and it shows an O-ring in the outlet there where the pressure line hooks up...whats the part number for this guy? I'd love to be able to do this with the pump in the van, maybe save my alternator for a little longer.......!

mark

That tab on the banjo fitting is there to keep it's position in relation to the pump. When the bolt is tightened the fitting tends to rotate and that tab also prevents that. There are several potential parts that can leak in this area. The banjo fitting has 2 copper washer (one on each side of it). These are Toyota part number 90430-16242. These are not likely to leak unless the banjo bolt is loose, so check that 1st. There are also 2 o-rings that seal the pressure port to the pump (see diagram below)

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...eeringpump.jpg

The big o-ring is Toyota part #90301-22001 and the small one is #96711-19014.

I'm not sure why, but Toyota uses several different pressure hoses (depending on year and model). The hose they call out for an 87 4wd with automatic transmission is #44410-28110. This is an expensive hose (around $100) and probably no longer available. If the hose is the problem then the best thing to do is remove it and take it into a hydraulic hose shop. They can repair it by replacing the rubber parts of the hose. Good luck. Tim

Tim-

Thanks for the info RE: parts numbers.

I'm pretty sure the hose is fine as I can see the fluid weeping out of the port when the engine is running. I'll order the O-rings tomorrow and maybe the washers for the banjo bolt too (do they have parts numbers?).

This seems pretty straight forward right? I cover the alternator with bags to protect it from ATF, I disconnect the banjo fitting, I get the pressure fitting bolt off, pull it out and replace the O-rings, then put it all back together.....am I missing anything?

mark

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by abracadabra

the washers for the banjo bolt too (do they have parts numbers?).

---

90430-16242

Looks like the hose is still available through a few places 44410-28110, but the cheapest price I've found is $242!!!!!!!!!!

I'm gonna be real careful when handling that sucker, geeesh!

mark

Wow! I knew it was expensive, but that's ridiculous. Another option might be this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Omega...#ht_972wt_1165

Okay, update on this front.

I ordered the two O-rings plus two gaskets for the banjo bolt from Toyota. They showed up today, I paid too much for them but oh well, thats the way it goes!

This was a straight forward procedure, which was nice.

I got the radiator overflow out of the way first, this makes it easier to get at.

Then I covered the alternator with a few plastic bags and then put a big rag under the pressure port to catch fluid. My system was low on fluid because I didn't top it off knowing I would have to do this, so not too much fluid came out.

Then its just a matter of getting the banjo bolt off, which is easy, then the big pressure port bolt which was good deal tighter (I actually had to break it with a few heavy blows of my large wooden mallet!).

Then that big bolt comes out, there's the small O-ring on the bolt itself and the large O-ring seals the bolt to the body of the power steering unit. In my case the smaller O-ring looked okay but the large one was quite flat like a pancake and just seemed suspect.

After replacing the rings and gaskets I got everything snugged up and it doesn't appear to leak. I topped off the fluid and I'll monitor in the next few weeks to be sure.

And after inspecting my alternator visually it doesn't look like it has received too much of an ATF bath, hopefully she wasn't hurt too bad!

thanks!

mark

I too have to add ATF about every 2 tanks of gas and it creates a mess under the hood on that side.

Have any of you had success with the after market ebay pressure hoses? Toyota wants way too much money for this part.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291004600237...84.m1423.l2649

If the hose is crap it is not worth the effort to install and I will just keep adding ATF and park over cardboard!

Here's a better solution: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...ssure-Line-Fix

End cost will be about the same as the eBay hose, but this is a better fix and actually easier to do. The factory hose is somewhat of a PITA to replace (due to length). Repairing is less involved.........especially if you do it the way I did and use compression fittings (no brazing or soldering required). Tim

My van has leaked power steering for the past year. Until recently it lost about a quart a month. Small price to pay so I just accepted the cost and topped it up about once a week. Now the reservoir empties after a few days of driving so I need to address it if I'm going to keep the van.

The leak is coming from somewhere in the vicinity of the rack, not the pump. I attached a few pictures of what I saw when I removed the driver side wheel. Can anyone tell where exactly the leak is coming from? I have never done PS work so it's hard for me to visualize the system. I also attached a picture posted by Tim in a different thread. He was able to take a clear photo of the PS rack because he had the engine and radiator out of that particular van. Can someone point out to me where on Tim's pic my leak is likely coming from?

Any help is much appreciated!

Sam

I went ahead and ordered a remanufactured power steering rack. I'm gonna do the job myself but I need some guidance on the process. It looks pretty straightforward looking at it under the van but there can always be bugaboos! My understanding of the sequence is roughly this: remove inner and outer tie rods, disconnect hydraulic lines, disconnect steering wheel shaft/linkage, unbolt rack itself...installation reverse of removal etc. Any tips? Tricks? Challenges I should know about?

Just replaced the alternator that finally went out because of all the power steering fluid. Was wondering what I would need to repair/replace to get the leak to stop. Its coming out of the hose on the top from the looks of it.

some photos

Attachment 9479

Attachment 9480

Attachment 9481

Phycho -
It could be the clamp, or the hose or the O-ring or .....

It needs to be shampoo'd and then rechecked.

I tried to tighten the clamp, nada.

From the look of it, the clamp has been moved once down the neck of the hose barb fitting. You can see in-prints in the rubber just above the hose clamp. This kind of clamps can mash a rubber hose (old rubber, hydraulic fluid, 1000's heat cycles) to a pulp. Over tightening the clamp can only make it worst. I would bet that the section of hose above and in the clamp is now porous and slowly oozing fluid. Now, like Burntboot said the only way to tell is to clean the area with something like Simple Green and a pain brush, rinse with water and start from fresh.