How to disassemble the dash on a Previa

I will demonstrate dash disassembly on a 93 Previa. I know from experience that 91 - 93 Previas are the same, but unsure of anything newer as I've not worked on one yet. I suspect 94 & up are the same in these areas.....or at least very similar, but I don't know this for sure. If anyone reading this knows of anything different, please let me know by posting here in this thread. Okay, here's the procedure for 91 - 93 Previa dash disassembly:

Using a small screw driver, pry out one of the hinges to the change tray, then open it and it will come off.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8600.jpg


Remove the ash tray.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8598.jpg


Pull the wires from the lighter assy, then remove the black plastic cover piece.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8597.jpg


A 90 deg scribe works well to release the plastic hooks.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8595.jpg


Push the metal part of the assy out from behind.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8592.jpg


Use your scribe to release the plastic hooks, then remove the white plastic part.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8591.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8589.jpg


The plastic garnish will pull off now. Do not twist or change angles. Grab it firmly and pull straight toward you.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8587.jpg


Remove these 4 screws, then the drink tray and frame assy will come out. It's a tight fit, but play around trying different angles and it will come out when you find the right ones.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8585.jpg


Take out these 2 screws.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8584.jpg


Find the hidden latch, and remove the top center dash / fuse box cover.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8601.jpg


Remove these 2 screws.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8582.jpg


Remove the radio and fascia assembly.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8579.jpg


Okay, now that you got the radio out, the rest is pretty easy. Next comes the instrument panel hood. There's only 2 screws holding it on and 5 "push in / pull-out" style fasteners. Take out the screws:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8578.jpg


After the screws are out, the only thing holding it are the 5 push-in / pull-out type fasteners. There are these 3 bumps on the hood
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9292.jpg


and they go into these 3 holes in the dash panel
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8571.jpg


The other 2 are here by the heater duct.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9291.jpg


All you need to do (after you pull the 2 screws) is grab a hold of the hood and yank. It should pop right out. Just be careful to pull straight so you don't tweak the heat duct section. Sometimes you need to carefully loosen this area with a knife as to avoid damage while yanking out.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8576.jpg


After you get the instrument hood off, if you need to go further, it shouldn't be a problem as all remaining fasteners are pretty obvious and easy to figure out. Tim

tip to removing screws tucked in , after cup holder removal, a stubby 1/4 drive ratchet with Phillips tip, allows 90 degree access with some pressure

awesome write-up timsrv! i remember having to do this to replace the light for illuminating the A/C controls. i guess i'm to have to do it again as some lights in the instrument cluster have gone out.

anyone consider replacing the lights for the instrument cluster with LEDs? if so, what size LEDs should i get?

I've done this a few times to several different vehicles. LED bulbs are definitely the way to go as they run cool and rarely burn out. Of course you need to make sure you run them on the correct voltage or they will burn out quickly. Some of the bigger general illumination ones you can find with resistors built in (can run directly on 12v), but as far as I know you can't get the little ones yet that will run directly on 12v. For these you need to wire resistors in series. Here's a link to a write-up I made for the earlier vans: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...s-Where-to-buy.

Doing this mod on a Previa isn't much different (same bulbs are used). Here's some pics I took about 5 or 6 years ago while doing this to a Previa.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9241.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9237.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9238.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9240.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9236.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9235.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9250.jpg

Here's a Previa fan switch that I modded to take the small LED bulbs. Note the resistors in the shrink tubing.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_8606.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9247.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9242.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9245.jpg

Thanks for this Tim!

I was thinking out horrible the greenish light up is.

Now my fan works I'm replacing mine, the blue LED"S are great ! Any tips on reinstalling the control cables .... do they push in from the end or push down from the top? I carefully pried up and off the few I needed to remove to increase access. I really can't see pushing them back down in place it would take a lot of pressure and are at hard to reach spots. Thanks as always Donny

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cvtroger

Thanks for this Tim!

I was thinking out horrible the greenish light up is.

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Last time I did a Previa was 5 or 6 years ago so my memory is a bit fuzzy......otherwise I'd give you a blow-by-blow. Perhaps TheMan remembers. Tim

Morning,
So I just noticed , when I was testing my new LEDS that the dimmer dial was effecting the fan.
When the motor was running the LEDS seemed not effected by the dimmer dail but the fan would go from 0 to low and a noticeable click or shorting maybe noise when you dailed it from most to least. Fan coming on at the least dimmer position. At least it feels/sounds like the fan is coming on low. Not related to position blower motor switch is in.
The symptoms are interment of course.
Dimmer dial works on control panel LEDS, electrical noise coming from that general area when rotating dial. Dail has effecting fan coming on low but LEDS do always work. OR
Then dail doesnt effect LEDS dimming at all. OR
Fan either works or doesn't now, if not working it may come on the next time you start the van.
I'll take some time to really nail down the symptoms and try and find were the connection between the dimmer dial and fan is.
thanks again.
I'm leaving everything apart until I'm sure it's running properly and safe.

That's weird. Sounds like a bad ground to the blower and perhaps it's grounding through the dimmer? Make sure all your harnesses connections are attached and inspect fan related connections for burn marks. Without hands-on I can only guess. Good luck. Tim

The control cables just feed in from the end not pushed in from top! Sweet and much easier.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

That's weird. Sounds like a bad ground to the blower and perhaps it's grounding through the dimmer? Make sure all your harnesses connections are attached and inspect fan related connections for burn marks. Without hands-on I can only guess. Good luck. Tim

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The best dashboard 'mod' I ever did was NOT replacing the two screws securing the underside of the radio upon reassembly. The radio clicks in at the bottom just fine without the screws on my '91. Now, when I have to do work on the upper central dash related to the radio, switches, cables, bulbs etc, I can start the above instructable at the point of removal of the fuse cover, leaving everything below the radio untouched.
jw

Hi, My problem is that the fan speed control lever does not move. Is it possible to take the whole unit you are holding (in the first photo) further and fix that lever? Or do I need to buy the entire unit shown in your photo to fix it? I would appreciate your advice. Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jinaleecpa

Hi, My problem is that the fan speed control lever does not move. Is it possible to take the whole unit you are holding (in the first photo) further and fix that lever? Or do I need to buy the entire unit shown in your photo to fix it? I would appreciate your advice. Thanks

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Sounds like you'll need the switch (picture #8). It's Toyota part #84732-95D00. It's somewhat of a PITA to get it out of there, but once you get the larger assembly out you can see how it all comes apart. Tim

Thank you very much for your help and the part #. I live in Dallas area and I could not find a mechanic who is willing to take it apart and find the issue. I will take it apart myself and buy the part, then take it to the mechanic to replace it. Thanks again!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

Sounds like you'll need the switch (picture #8). It's Toyota part #84732-95D00. It's somewhat of a PITA to get it out of there, but once you get the larger assembly out you can see how it all comes apart. Tim

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Yo blokes, thanks for a thread that probably saves my tomorrow when I am going to rip up my Previa's dashboard in hunt for possible malfunction in heat adjustment system. Actually I might post a question to a separate thread about the topic :greenvan:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

... Here's some pics I took about 5 or 6 years ago while doing this to a Previa.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9241.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9237.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9238.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...r/IMG_9240.jpg

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Hi Tim,

I realize it's five or six years since you posted these pics in this thread, which seems to have been five or six years after you actually did the job, but could you help with a basic question? - How did you get the HVAC panel out of the dash to get to this point where you can take pics and work on it? Did you remove the whole dash? Even knowing (I think) how the cable clips are supposed to release, I can't get them freed up; I have only managed the easiest one of them (the lower left, closest to the access opening), which leaves two more below, plus two above. It's crazy. I keep thinking there must be some trick to it. Do you recall?

Lol, yeah, 12 years ago I might have had some info for you. I'm sure if I had to do the job again I'd be able to figure it out, but I don't remember those type of details from jobs back then. I got rid of my last Previa about 5 years ago, so I don't even have the option of pulling one apart. Too little brain space, too many details to remember........sorry. Tim

Before I realized this thread existed I started one about replacing the fan switch, and in an effort to contribute I described the center dash disassembly with pics. There is much duplication but I remember there were a couple of screws which were really tricky to find and they are described. Have a look here to see if it helps... https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...tioning-switch
DO NOT put the two under-side radio screws back in when you reassemble. Throw them as far away as you can. This way when you need to do any work inside the upper center dash you can take the radio out as the very first step and leave all the lower stuff in place.

Jonny, I just came back to this thread to report to Tim that I had pulled the HVAC panel (probably not the way he did it, but I could not figure out any other way), and saw that you had posted since my question to Tim. I looked at your thread, and even after having just replaced the fan switch, I don't know how you did it without releasing AT LEAST that cable that controls heat to the rear.

In the end, I released all the cables, after making a tool for that purpose (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...via-HVAC-panel). That allowed me to pull the HVAC panel, making everything I had to do on it much easier.

If you are only going to replace the dummy lights in the main cluster you don't have to remove or unplug the cigarette lighter, drink tray or radio. You just need to get the radio fascia off, giving access to the 2 screws on the instrument panel hood.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

If you are only going to replace the dummy lights in the main cluster you don't have to remove or unplug the cigarette lighter, drink tray or radio. You just need to get the radio fascia off, giving access to the 2 screws on the instrument panel hood.

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If I understand what you mean by "dummy lights", those two light bulbs in the HVAC panel can be replaced fairly easily, as you say. (As Jonny says, as long as you leave out those two 8mm-head screws that retain the radio from below, you don't need to do anything below.) As you say, you can just remove the radio fascia and replace the bulbs (though it can be awkward to pull them out without breakage).

However, those lights are part of the blower switch harness (wiring assembly), and are replaced with the switch, which is how I did it the last time. AFAICS the HVAC panel must be removed to replace that switch.

I am referring to the main instrument cluster lights-the oil, fuel, seat belt, alternator, speedometer, check engine light etc.

I may have to walk back what I said at least partway...I can tell you that I took the instrument cluster off on my 97 without having to do any of that but its possible that either the 97 is different, or the 2 screws Jonny talked about leaving out were left out by a previous owner....

Today I took the cluster off of my 93 so I could get some extra sockets for the instrument bulbs, and it was a bit more involved because those 2 screws definitely needed to be removed.

Put the 97 dash back together today and can now confirm that it is pretty much the same as the 93. The two screws had been removed by someone prior to me, which is why it came out so easily

Considering how infrequently the dash needs to be pulled apart, I always put all screws back. Failing to put them back may make future disassembling easier, but can also result in squeaks and rattles.

Just replaced my gauge cluster lights with white LED. There were three light-plug-holders they are green. Those are the ones you want to replace if you just want to change the general color.


Although changing the automatic transmission lights look cool as blue. I have a manual so I don't get to do that. But I did have an auto before where you couldn't see at night. Should have looked at it. But it went to van heaven.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by advolkit

Just replaced my gauge cluster lights with white LED.

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How is it working out for you?