New owner 4x4 TV LE 87 227k been sitting for over a year. Stuck in 4x4?

Hello, I have been scouring the internet and recently found / purchased an 87 TV 4x4 :) sadly its not a stick but i am still happy to have the 4wd option as i will be moving to the mountains in the next few weeks. The previous owner drove the van around his yard in 4x4 before parking it and not driving it again for over 1 year. It is now 'stuck in 4x4. Its a push button 4wd with auto hubs. The light in the 4x4 button turns off and on when you push it but the light in the dash stays lit. It seems pretty grippy making tight turns on pavement, so i believe its stuck in 4x4 currently. Does anyone know how i can begin to troubleshoot this? Also can anyone suggest other maintenance to bring some life back to her after sitting for so long. I will change oil, spark plugs and probably coolant. Also, can anyone suggest a TV mechanic in the seattle area or kirkland area. I am considering taking it in for an overall inspection.

thanks! cant wait to get her road worthy and polished up. Big plans for this one!

Have you tried backing up? With auto hubs just pushing the button on the dash isn't enough, you must also back up. It should take about 10 feet, but I'd give it about about 20 before suspecting a problem. I hope that's it. Tim

hey Tim

I should have mentioned i have tried that. I will try more still. I have only done so in my driveway which is about 40 feet distance. The van isn't starting consistently so I haven't got her out on a bigger stretch to try again just yet. I would imagine its not unlikely that whatever engages the 4x4 is stuck in position due to the long period of it sitting in place.

If you plan on keeping the van, I'd start out by replacing the auto hubs with manual ones. Manuals are better anyhow & replacing could likely solve your problem. Tim

I do plan on kepping it. Maybe upgrade to a manual transmission someday but going to get this one cleaned up and camper converted for now :) Thanks again for the advice. I will try swapping out the auto hubs for manuel asap.

I followed a link http://www.ebay.com/itm/AVM-413-lock...-/181080751219 from an older thread of yours. Are these the correct hubs to do the swap from auto to manual?

Yes, those will work, although I have no idea how rugged they are or the quality. I prefer Aisin hubs, but those are getting to be a bit spendy. The cheapest set of Aisins I could find on eBay were $175: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Picku...10eaeb&vxp=mtr. Regardless of what brand hubs you use, you will need a "cross-over kit" to switch from automatic hubs to manuals. Wab Fab is likely the best place to get those: http://www.wabfab.org/component/opti...roduct_id,702/. Wab Fab also sells the Aisin hubs that have been rebuilt, and all things considered, theirs are likely a better value than used ones off of eBay. Here's a link: http://www.wabfab.org/component/opti...roduct_id,699/. Have fun. Tim

PS: There's some on Portland's craigslist right now for cheap, but nothing currently on Seattle's craigslist. You might check to see if one of these guys would ship: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/4210864650.html, http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/4213742167.html

UPDATE 8/24/14: Before ordering from WabFab check THIS POST

thanks Tim! id like to take your advice and get the aisin hubs. I have kept craigslist to local cash pickups only. How have you handled CL transactions with shipping? you wire them the $ and cross your fingers that the item shows?

Yep, that's about it. I've been ripped off before, so you have to expect that could happen. Most of the time people are honest and provide what was promised. Often the sellers will refuse to ship, so there's that possibility too. Tim

hubs should be on the way! this guy is shipping them up http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/4213742167.html. Should i also purchase additional hardware?

You'll still need the Auto to Manual Aisin Conversion kit as stated above. Typically when you buy hubs it's implied that you'll get all the hardware associated with them, but the parts you need to make the conversion are usually not part of it. It doesn't hurt to ask though. If the vehicle is salvage he may be willing to give you those parts as well. Since the bearing retainers need to have the tabs bent over I prefer new stuff (no telling how many times the tabs have been bent on the old ones). The $35 Wab Fab wants for these is very reasonable...........and you even get the 54mm socket. "The wabbit will fab it" :LOL2:. Tim

UPDATE 8/24/14: Before ordering from WabFab check THIS POST

got the hubs in the mail :) just waiting for the auto - manual kit from wabfab. I currently have the passenger seat out and engine bay open. I changed the plugs and oil now the van is not starting :/ ? --- The van had been sitting for over 1 year when i picked it up. Gas light was on when i got it and it was stuck in 4x4. I drove it to the gas station filled up and made the 2 hour commute home. She was choking a bit but made it. Once home she wouldnt start up again. id wait an hour then she would start. After that wouldnt start again. id wait an hour then shed start. Then I did the plugs and wires. now the engine turns right over but cuts off immediately after. Is this something i have done when opening the engine bay or changing the plugs? or maybe a clogged fuel filter? my experience is very limited so far. Excited to get this van road worthy!

video of engine - start up die immediately

http://s109.photobucket.com/user/jed...0b73f.mp4.html

pic of the hubs

Attachment 1196

Sounds like an air flow meter problem. Jump the fuel pump test connector and try again. If it remains running then the problem is in the air flow meter. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...13IMG_9014.jpg

thanks Tim. can you tell me how to do that? "Jump the fuel pump check connector" im not sure what that means

Put a jumper wire or paperclip in this connector (complete the circuit between the two slots). This is for troubleshooting only. If it continues running you'll need to replace the air flow meter. Don't leave the jumper installed to drive as that could create a safety issue. Tim

no luck, completed the circuit, still same result

With the jumper wire in, turn the key to run (but don't start) and listen to see if fuel is flowing through the lines. If it isn't, then pull the jumper & also pull the small wire from your starter. Now hold the key in the start position and listen to see if fuel is flowing. Report back your findings and I'll tell you what to do next. Tim

key turned to run, i put in jumper wire, i then hear fuel flowing through lines. i remove jumper wire (still in run position) sound goes away.

Okay, then the problem is not fuel related. Check trouble codes and report back. Tim

Here's an article that shows how to check for and identify codes: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/c...vice-Connector

thnx:) was just searching for that

cel seems to blink 4-6-11

video of code flashing

http://s109.photobucket.com/user/jed...4aee0.mp4.html

Code 4 is water temp sensor (towards back & passenger side of coolant filler neck). If this sensor is bad, van will still start but will run terrible. Code 6 is likely the one responsible for your current problem. Code 11 is likely a bad or disconnected TPS. We just had a conversation about codes 6 & 11, so rather than rehashing all of that, here's a link to that thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...-cap-and-rotor

Since you were just messing around with plugs & distributor, I would also recommend checking the connections at your distributor........pay particular attention to the ones clipped to the front side of the distributor.

Temp sensors are cheap, so if I had a code 4, I'd just replace that. Napa part #TS5520 for around $15. If you're rolling in the bucks, then it's Toyota part #89422-12010 for around $80. Tim

Here's a thread that deals with code #4: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...Codes-4-and-11

ok, going to get / replace the temp sensor. about to read for codes 6 and 11. for checking connections at distributor am i just making sure the plug wires are snug on that end?

if i get this igniter, can i just join the cut wire with the existing one in my van?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-89-TOYOTA...05ed70&vxp=mtr

or would you recommend i purchase elsewhere?

It's a shielded wire but these can still be spliced (just need to give it a little more attention). That cable consists of 2 regular wires covered by a braided steel sleeve and that's covered with a plastic sleeve. As long as there's only a small interruption in the braided sleeve it probably won't matter much. When I repair this type wire I solder the interior wires, cover each with shrink tube, then wrap tinfoil to overlap the break in the steel braiding, then cover the entire repair with a larger shrink tube. I'm simply relying on the outer shrink tube to keep the foil in place, so I overlap it by at least an inch on each side. My way is likely overkill, but I don't like worrying about the "what if's" when a problem still remains. Tim

thanks so much! ill replace the igniter and temp sensor and see what happens :)

Attachment 1197 the temp sensor currently looks like this? little metal clamps connected to 'paperclip' sitting around base of temp sensor. What should i do about this? I also took a look at the sensor on the drivers side of the filler neck and it looked pretty funny too :/

Attachment 1198

Yeah, that could be the reason for your code 4 :LOL2:. The part in your 2nd picture is the "cold start injector time switch" Both of these use the common Bosch style connector (same as your injector connectors). They are easy to find at salvage yards or you can easily find new at most auto parts store. Napa/Echlin part #V13087 or 2-18545 will work for both of these sensors. If the sensor or time switch look questionable it's a good idea to just replace. If the temp sensor is bad it will have a major effect on performance regardless of operating temp. The time switch will only effect performance while vehicle is cold. Tim

thanks for keeping my progress rollin Tim!!! cant wait to get this baby on the road :)

Yeah, no problem. I had to work late tonight, and my van almost didn't get me home. So after I ate dinner I had to go spend a few hrs in the garage with it. Just got done a few minutes ago and saw your post. Glad I can help. Tim

i swapped the igniter today. I took out the old, and connected the wires for the new one. tried to start = same result - starts and dies immediately. I put the screws in to fasten the 'new to me' igniter in position and tried again. It started and ran a bit longer this time before it died. Again and it starts up and keeps running!!! I tapped on the gas and the engine would cut out immediately but keep running once i let go of the gas. i repeated this a few times and eventually got the engine revving by manually using the throttle cable. After this she died again and is currently as she was. Starts but dies immediately. So basically she ran once but didnt like it when i gave her any gas. Also i cant help but think this is something i have caused. As it was running prior to me changing the plugs. Is there some vacuum line or something i may have disconnected that is causing this?

Yeah, I was afraid it wasn't the igniter. Anymore when I have these sort of problems I just swap parts (it's nice having extra parts around). That other thread I linked you to has the list of most likely to least likely causes. Probably the most common failed ignition part on our vans is the ignition coil. Don't know what the problem with yours is, but that's what I'd go after 1st. If you think it's something you caused, then retrace your steps and recheck your work.

You didn't mention the ECU temperature switch. Did you ever replace that? If not, I'd change that 1st before doing anything else. Tim