Need new front shocks '87 4wd

Used the search function and I can't find the old thread pertaining to new 4wd shocks.
Mine are super bouncy and I want to upgrade to the new Durango shocks i read about.
On a piece of scratch paper I have noted the KYB 5476 and the KYB 5458.

Will the "Real best front shock" please stand up?
(Bonus points for those of you who get the game show reference!)

The 5476's are too stiff and you won't like them. The KG5458's are good (excellent actually) but they are not plug & play. You will need to modify to make them work. They also do not have a dust cover to protect the rod. This is probably not necessary, especially if you stay mostly on the main roads, just odd that they don't have that. Another choice could be going with any shock listed for the front of a 1996 - 2001 Ford Crown Victoria. From what I understand the Police Interceptor and Taxi shocks have the same length & compression. They also have the correct stiffness for the van & most other brands have dust covers............but will also have the same mounting issue as the 5458's. I'm not sure about the other brands for this application, but I was considering the ACDELCO Part #5405010 Premium Monotube. I don't know of anybody that's tried these yet, so I don't know what complications you might have or how the ride compares (I suspect they are top notch). They are expensive (over $50 each), but look cool with the flexible accordion style dust covers.

The mods required to make the Crown Vic shocks fit has to do with the bar in the lower mount. The holes will not line up correctly (too far apart). On some shocks you can swap out that mount tube from your old shocks. sometimes though the tube is fused to the rubber and swapping over may not be possible. You could also get some 5/8" OD tube and make a new mount from scratch. Another way is to drill out the mount hole(s) on the new shocks to get what you need. In some cases you may be able to push the mount tube over a bit, cut the extra length off the other side, then just drill one new hole. The other mod (not really a mod) is needing to use the old rubber parts for the upper mount. This is because the new rubber parts are meant for a bigger mount hole (about 3/4"). You could drill out the upper mount hole on the van & use the new, but using the old rubbers is better (hard to undrill a hole if you decide to switch back). Tim

PS: I should state these shocks are only for the 4wd vans. I mention this just in case a 2wd owner happens to read this :dizzy:.

Thanks Tim,

I found the thread I was looking for over on TVP. I will send your advice to my mechanic buddy who is
currently re-working my power steering pump and cleaning up my alternator after the PS leak.

Will let you know which shocks he decides to use. The mod info will come in very handy.

Thanks again!

Yes, to give credit where credit is due, Saucymonkey & NEC blazed the trail on these. Tim

I an running the crown vic shocks.
I learned of it here:

Motorcraft pn ASH1

96-2001 ford crown vic with POLICE SUSPENSION

http://www.toyotavanpeople.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7572&hilit=+shocks#p55467

With the way my torsion bars are cranked: These shocks do not provide enough rebound dampening. Hitting speed bumps to fast or water bars off road will throw me up from my seat along with everything on my dash.

Here are my notes on aftermarket parts for the van

shocks front BEST

Kg5458

from dodge durangeo 2wd, NEEDS MOD

http://www.toyotavanpeople.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7572&hilit=+shocks

Energy suspension PN 9.8107 (around $4 a pair) bushing and 5/8" OD DOM 16 gage tube

shock front	Gabriel Ultra Truck Shock, 4wd Front G63612
shock front	MONROE RockAuto Part # 550010 Gas-Magnum Severe Service Shock	alternative to motorcraft

Good Luck

Having not gone aftermarket here, is there a huge difference b/w the shocks mentioned above and Toyota replacements?

They seem to be available through mid-atlantic...

With torsion bars cranked. The motorcraft shocks allowed more rebound than I liked. But i think the t bars are to blame more than the shocks.

Now that i havet 4 Runner t bars, they ride great!

Did I miss the 4-runner torsion bar mod? How's that work?
I switched from the Gabriel G60109 to the KYB5458 and I think I'll soon switch back-the kyb's are too bouncy. Unless the 4-runner torsion bar mod fixes the bounce somehow? It's too bad because the Gabriel's are nla.

I haven't had time to post pics.
Basically the 4runner bars are longer by about 2 inches. the length can be compensated for in the rear bracket. grind the welds and push the tube back.

The front needs a custom bracket.
Once you get all the parts its self explanatory if you have a welder.

You need front and rear brackets that accept the spine on either end of the t bar. And the t bar of course.

With the 4runner t bars i dont get thrown up out of my seat going over speed bumps any more. And i can actually hit my bump stops now.

That sounds pretty awesome, but I have no welder. Please post pics when you have a chance.

Your projects get a que? I'm jelous.
I just fight what ever fire is biggest at the moment.

:nuke:

Makes it sound better that way. The queue is really what's making the loudest clunking at the moment.:clap:

As a professional welder this machine had been very handy to have at home.

http://www.harborfreight.com/170-Amp...l_s1021_c3114b

Ok. Maybe it's time to own a welder.

Torsion bar write up.
http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...2805#post12805

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djshimon

I switched from the Gabriel G60109 to the KYB5458 and I think I'll soon switch back-the kyb's are too bouncy............

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This is likely due to preload (t-bars cranked too much). For an explanation, here's a couple quotes from an old thread on TVP:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

The torsion bar is basically a spring in a non-traditional form. By tightening, you are increasing the tension. At some point the tension can become too tight and the spring will not give nearly as much........therefore making a much stiffer ride. When you hit a bump, they won't give easily. The result is harsh compression and rebound. This can be very forceful leading to discomfort and stability / safety issues. Other than appearance, and increased ground clearance, there is nothing to be gained by doing this. So don't over do it.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

These torsion bars are tough and I've never heard of one breaking, so I wouldn't worry too much about that. I would worry more about too much preload and the handling effects that can have. Preload occurs if you keep cranking the bars after max height has been reached. This can make for harsh and / or violent rebounds after bumps.

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I've never touched the torsion bars, but I'll take a look at them and see. It'd be nice to have a smoother ride, less bouncy.

There is an adjustment procedure in the suspension section of service manual for the torsion bars. Basically you put the van on a flat level surface and crank the bars one way or the other until ride height is correct. The manual tells you where to measure ride height and how much you should have. I would recommend checking that before swapping shocks.

I understand the desire to crank the bars & I'm guilty of it myself. Just keep in mind that there's a price to pay for the extra ride height. The only way to get around that would be to make mods to the suspension. There's other things that can be done, but the t-bars have the most influence over the harshness of the ride. Shocks are important too, but finding the right combination of things can be elusive. Tim

ok. One of these days I'll have a second to check that, or sometime when I'm feeling level:roflmao:

Recently got around to putting the new shocks in.

I picked them up from http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/ . They took a bit to get here, but I wasn't exactly in a hurry. The old rubber on top looked pretty crusty. On the bottom connection, the rubber had somehow vaporized and was real loose, I could twist it side to side by hand.

The ride height in the front now seems more equal to the rear. Installation was also a breeze, almost the easiest thing I've done on the van, so that was a nice surprise.

Attachment 1970Attachment 1971Attachment 1972

pinkgrips thanx for posting the link to toyotaoverstockparts that appears to be really helpful in the near future. you guys know that alot of the parts for these lil vans are getting harder to find everyday.:thmbup:

no problem!

feel free to send me a couple Gansett's to show your appreciation!

Hey PinkGrips,
How are those OEM shocks working? And just to be sure, were they for your 4wd van?

So far they seem to be working out pretty well. To be honest, I don't have much of a basis for comparison. The ride is still a bit bouncy, but definitely better than what was on there. I went with the OEMs because I didn't really want to fiddle around with pressing out the old rubber or having to cut the metal sleeve on some of the AM options.

I originally ordered a different set from the toyotaoverstock folks, but was contacted b/c the part I ordered didn't match the VIN. They set me straight and ordered the corresponding shocks.

They were for the 4x4 van.

48500-29335 is the part I originally ordered, 48500-29606 is the part they said was actually what I needed and got.

Thanks for the info!

I haven't seen any reports on the Gabriel Ultra Truck Shock, 4wd Front G63612, aside from the fact that they fit. So I thought I'd throw my 2 cents in. I've used the 63612 on two vans. Like them a lot. Not bouncy. Not stiff. Just right, in my opinion. :thmbup:

Now, does anybody know if these Gabriels will work with with cranked torsion bars? That is, are they long enough? Are the other front shocks (e.g. kyb, durango, crown vic) extra long to accommodate a 2" lift?

I figured I would throw in my shock experience since I haven't seen any posts about these. The Gabrield Progaurd shocks were recomended to me by the owner of toyotavans.org and being that I didn't want to deal with modifying Durango shocks at this point I thought I'd give them a try. I could only find them trough autozone which required that I go for a drive since there isn't one near me, but I picked them up and replaced them two days ago. My first impressions are very good. They're about twice the diamater of the stock shocks but bolted on no problems. So far I've driven them on dirt roads and on pavement up tp about 60. They seem to be doing really well. No bounce when going over bumps and the suck up washboards really well. Cornering is also significantly better than with the old shocks. I don't have anything to compare them to but I'm impressed with them. My torsion bars are set a little soft right now so we'll see if anything changes once I get those tightened a little. There is also a rear shock that Autozone says is not compatible, but apparently is just missing a bushing that if you pull of the old shocks works fine, but I haven't tried them yet.

Thanks for the information. I might try these next time I buy shocks. Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by teleman73

The Gabrield Progaurd shocks were recomended to me by the owner of toyotavans.org

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I assume you are referring to Roy. Did he tell you whether they were compatible with cranked torsion bars? They appear to be a stock type replacement. I'm just wondering if they have enough travel since mine is lifted and in dire need of new shocks.

He didn't say either way, What shocks do you have under it right now, because if they're not something specifically longer than stock I think these would work, I think it would also depend on how much you have the torsion bars cranked up.

I finally got new shocks. I decided to go with the Gabriel ProGuard mentioned by teleman73 since they need no modifications and were readily available from Autozone. I've had them on nearly a month and driven close to 1000 miles including around 150 on dirt service roads and am pleased with their performance. The install was a little tight due to the larger tube diameter but provided adequate clearance once bolted up. The sleeve in the lower bushing was a little narrower but the bracket bent in slightly to accommodate when I torqued the bolt down.
Attachment 4034Attachment 4035Attachment 4036Attachment 4037Attachment 4038

I bought KYB's for a dodge durango and modified the shock mount. The sprung weight is the same. Completely made the car. You have to cut the sides off one of the mounts and drill it out for the mounting bolt.

been several years so i cant remember it it was the upper or lower, but it will be clear which one when you get the shocks.

I'm slightly confused... fuquan in this thread says Gabriel part # G63612... these also are mentioned in another thread as someone bought and installed ...but originalkwyjibo you show in the picture Gabriel part # 61545 and mention teleman73 says these are good... they both seem to fit w/o issue.. which are the preferred model?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ratatouille

I'm slightly confused... fuquan in this thread says Gabriel part # G63612... these also are mentioned in another thread as someone bought and installed ...but originalkwyjibo you show in the picture Gabriel part # 61545 and mention teleman73 says these are good... they both seem to fit w/o issue.. which are the preferred model?

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Gabrials are guaranteed roflroflroflrofl. I am not kidding. The best is to get the Durango shock and easily modify the lower mount. Trust me, I have done both. I took the gabrials off after less than 6 months.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RawbSpear

Gabrials are guaranteed roflroflroflrofl. I am not kidding. The best is to get the Durango shock and easily modify the lower mount. Trust me, I have done both. I took the gabrials off after less than 6 months.

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Got it, thanks for suggestion. Can you explain a little more what you needed to do to modify the lower mount? Are you running stock height with the KYB's from the Durango or are you raised via the crank torsion method? Would you happen to know the part number on these KYB's ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ratatouille

I'm slightly confused... fuquan in this thread says Gabriel part # G63612... these also are mentioned in another thread as someone bought and installed ...but originalkwyjibo you show in the picture Gabriel part # 61545 and mention teleman73 says these are good... they both seem to fit w/o issue.. which are the preferred model?

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The G63612 is the Ultra line while the 61545 that I used is the Proguard. The Ultra's are a stiffer sport/truck line with more aggressive valving that is likely the cause of the "bouncing" that has been described by both van owners and owners of other vehicles while the Proguard is in between the Ultra's and stock. I read reviews for both as well as Gabriel's descriptions and also trust the opinion of Roy from yotavans.org who presumably is the one who recommended to teleman73 as it is my understanding Roy has rebuilt more vans than even Tim has owned. One of my stock shocks was blown out so nearly anything was an improvement but after a few months and a few thousand miles I'm still happy with mine. I have no experience with the KYB's and may try them on my other van when the time comes for a more informed comparison.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by originalkwyjibo

The G63612 is the Ultra line while the 61545 that I used is the Proguard......

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I appreciate the clarification! I had read through so many different threads and experiences this last week it was all getting blurry.

Well I've got over 10,000 miles on the Gabriel Proguards I mounted and recommended last fall and thought I'd give an update. So far I still recommend these shocks. They've broken in a little more and don't feel quite as stiff around corners, but they are still way better than what I was dealing with before. The bounce is still minimal which for me is the biggest thing. I wish they had a little more resistance when cornering, but that would probably increase bounce and they still handle pretty well. Most of that 10,000 has been highway or paved two lane roads. On dirt they suck up washboards well, and I can tell that the stock shocks on the back leave something to be desired. I think these are a great option, especially for those that don't want to deal with modification.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RawbSpear

Gabrials are guaranteed roflroflroflrofl. I am not kidding. The best is to get the Durango shock and easily modify the lower mount. Trust me, I have done both. I took the gabrials off after less than 6 months.

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What exactly did you have to do to get the Durango shocks to fit? Maybe you could explain the mod? Do you have a part number? I have cranked torsions and the shocks on there now bounce me out of my seat over bumps. One of them appears to be leaking as well. If the Durango front shocks are as good as you say I'd love to do that to my van instead of the Gabriel ones

If your torsions are cranked up way high it will be bouncy anyway.