Replacing your fuel pulsation damper

(First things first: many dankes and salaams to Llamavan for taking the pictures, for being such a wise site administrator, for looking after my vans when I'm overseas, and for being an all-around good person.)

Hello everyone,

A couple of days ago I replaced the fuel pulsation damper (FPD) in my '87 4WD.
What, you may ask, are the symptoms of a bad FPD? The most obvious (and dangerous) one is a strong smell of raw gasoline in your engine compartment, outside the van, and possibly in your van's people compartment.
If you suspect a gas leak, pull over and stop and investigate the cause! Gasoline is very volatile, has a low "flash point," and will catch fire in less than a heartbeat! Safety first, last, and always - I cannot emphasize this point strongly enough.

If this job description seems overly detailed to the point of being patronizing, I apologize in advance. I supervise the maintenance and operation of a merchant ship's engineroom for a living, and am accustomed to giving explicit step-by-step instructions in most aspects of the jobs done by those who work for me.

Prepare for the maintenance before you start turning wrenches. When you remove your FPD, you will inevitably lose some gas out of the fuel rack (pipe) that supplies the injectors. Your van's exhaust manifold (below the FPD) should be cool to the touch before starting. Make sure the space where you replace your FPD is well-ventilated (preferably outdoors), and you have some method of controlling or containing the fuel that will spill.

You will need a 22 mm open-end wrench for removing and reinstalling the FPD, and a wrench for disconnecting your battery cable. You need not remove the passenger-side engine cover. There are two types of FPDs for our vans; my '86 and '87 take part number 23270-50011 and my '88 takes P/N 23207-16020. Check with your parts source to see which one fits your van, based on your VIN. The gaskets needed for the FPD are the same for all years; they are P/Ns 23232-41081 for the aluminum gasket on the FPD and 90430-12005 for the copper gasket between the banjo fitting and the fuel rack. You will need one spare of each type of gasket per FPD replaced; they should not be reused. More on gasket location and fitting later.

To cut down the fuel pressure behind the FPD before removing it, you can try running your engine while removing the 15 amp EFI fuse. This picture shows the location of the fuse, right next to the main fuse box under the dashboard, circled in red:

Attachment 175

My engine stopped as soon as the EFI fuse was removed; YMMV.

Once your van is in position for the work, it's a good idea to block the wheels. Next step - remember, safety first - is to disconnect at least one of the battery cables. Now you can start removing the FPD. This picture shows its location, circled in yellow, below the throttle body and intake manifold:

Attachment 176

Note the two clamps on the adjacent vacuum hose that have been moved for ease of access. Having skinny fingers and small hands helps when doing this job.

Once you loosen it, the FPD should screw right out. This is the aforementioned point where you will lose some fuel. If you have to put a bit of muscle into loosening the FPD, make sure you brace the fuel rack to prevent fracturing it.

This picture shows the copper gasket (P/N 90430-12005) and banjo fitting above the FPD when it is removed:

Attachment 179

This picture shows my used and new FPDs. Note the absence of the machine screw in the top of the old one:

Attachment 178

Now, with the new FPD turned upside down, place a new aluminum gasket (P/N 23232-41081) on its threaded shaft. Remove the old copper gasket from the banjo fitting, clean the banjo fitting's gasket seating surfaces as best you can, and then place a new copper gasket between it and the fuel rack. Getting the gasket centered on the banjo fitting opening is not critical at this point; when you push the FPD into the bottom of the banjo fitting, the gasket will be centered by the shaft. (Just make sure that the gasket does not fall out during the replacement.) You may have to tug a slight bit on the banjo fitting to get it up into its slot on the bottom of the fuel rack.

When threading the FPD into the fuel rack, be careful not to cross-thread it, or you'll wind up replacing the entire rack. It should thread in easily, once you get it all oriented properly. Using your handy-dandy 22 mm open-end wrench, tighten it until it's snug - don't make it too tight. This picture shows how the new FPD should look once it is installed and tightened:

Attachment 180

OK, you're done with the installation. Let it sit for a little while to allow the gas fumes to dissipate, then reconnect the battery. If you removed your EFI fuse, now is the time to reinstall it. It's a good idea, but not absolutely necessary, to use the fuel pump to fill up the fuel rack and check for leaks before starting. To do this, locate the fuel pump check connector near the air filter and throttle body. Short out the two connections in it (safety first - use insulated wire!), then turn your ignition key to the "Run" position. You should hear a relay click and the electric fuel pump start. It will take just a few seconds to fill up the fuel rack. If you spot any leaks, shut down immediately and troubleshoot!

Turn the ignition key to "Off" and remove the fuel pump check connector jumper. Check your work one more time to make sure everything is back in place. With the "hood" still open, start your engine and check again for any fuel leaks; increase engine RPM to the normal range and check again.

If you have no fuel leaks, sit back with a cold one of your choice and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well-done. B^)

Thanks for the awesome write-up Flounder! Very impressive documentation. It cannot be stressed enough the importance of safety here. Like Flounder said, anytime you smell raw gasoline it should be investigated immediately. These FPDs are a common leak point on these vans and I know of several vans that have burned due to a leaky FPD. One of these vans was the white one I wrote up HERE in my body work thread.

The leak started after I sold the van. The new owner noticed the gas smell but kept driving (did not investigate). A week or so after that the van went up in flames (total loss). It was parked next to his 95 SC All-Trac Previa and that was also lost :cry:. Fortunately his losses were limited to these 2 vehicles, as it could have been much much worse. We will never know the exact cause of the fuel leak, but his Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) was less than 1 year old so I suspect the FPD. Had he investigated this ASAP, these vans would most likely still be alive. Tim

If you're looking to save money, there's an aftermarket alternative. I've been generally happy with the Standard #FPD4 dampers, but have noticed the threads to be a bit rough. As a result, I chase them with an M12 X 1.25 die & then they thread onto the fuel rail easily.

Good find, that #FPD4 is a good deal! Wish I saw it earlier but I already have a #FPD3 from Rock Auto on the way. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,6120. Luckily my Toyota dealership has the gaskets in stock so as soon as the damper comes in I'll be good to go

I'm not sure what the difference is on the FPD3 vs FPD4. I've used them both and they are interchangeable. I like the FPD4 better as it doesn't have a weep hole in it (I figure less chance of a leak). I did notice the FPD3 is listed for earlier vans (like yours). Since later vans used a higher PSI FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) I'm guessing the difference may be spring pressures are higher on the FPD4 to compensate. I'm currently running an FPD4 on an earlier van, but I'm also running the higher PSI FPR as to reduce heat soak issues. Tim

PS: Due to crappy threads, these Standard FPD's can be a real PITA to thread on the fuel rail straight (at least the ones I've used). You might get lucky, but if you're going to use this I'd recommend chasing the threads 1st using a die like the one I linked to in my earlier post.

Always helpful to visit the site...

'87 4wd is leaking fuel, only while running. Last night I noticed a strong smell of gasoline, but it was nite time and no visible liquid underneath. This am awoke to strong odor again. Turn over ignition only to see if I could see a leak... thought I might blow up. Have not driven vehicle and plan to tow as needed. There appears to be a leak originating from below the oil filter, perhaps a fuel line? After reading this I plan to replace FPD regardless. I'll report back with the cause of failure.


Happy Holidays!

There are 2 potential leak points in the area you mention. The most likely is the flex line that goes to the under side of the fuel filter. The other is the rubber hose portion of the fuel return line (smaller diameter rubber hose that goes between engine and frame). The bigger line holds about 40 psi, the smaller one is just a return line, so not much pressure here. Tim

My 1987 Van FPD is leaking. As in Flounder's picture of old vs new FPDs, it doesn't have a machine screw as pictured in the new one. Could this be the cause of the leak, and could a new screw solve the problem?

Having a screw vs not having a screw is simply a manufacturing style. Some of them have it some of them don't. If it's not leaking from the banjo fitting, then it's leaking due to a torn diaphragm (inside the damper). When this happens the damper needs to be replaced.

Also, FWIW, in the 4Runner FSM to release the fuel pressure you unplug the fuel pump (electrical connector) with the motor running.

(If you just pull the EFI it will shut off right away, and not release the pressure in the line.)

((Alternatively, You could also crank with out the MAF to Throttle body boot on since the MAF sends the signal for the fuel pump to run.))

That wouldn't be so easy on a van. Not sure where the fuel pump connector is on a 4-Runner, but it's underneath on our vans (and they can be a PITA to pull apart). On the van we don't have a MAF. The pump is powered by the circuit opening relay. The COR sends power to the fuel pump when one of, or both, of the following things happen. When the ignition switch is held in the "start" position and/or when the AFM (Air Flow Meter) opens enough to engage the pump switch (pump switch is built into the AFM). It's set up this way because the starter doesn't turn the engine fast enough to generate the air flow required to activate the pump switch. If you simply want to release pressure pull the EFI fuse (#19) with the engine running or crank the starter with that fuse removed. Of course if the FPD is leaking, the fuel pressure will automatically relieve itself whenever the ignition is off. :wnk: Tim

Note 1: When working on the fuel system you should remove the gas cap as to remove vapor pressure from the tank.

Note 2: When you pull the EFI fuse, any stored trouble codes will be erased from the ECU, so it's not a bad idea to check for codes before removing.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...l/IMG_0772.jpg

My mistake! I meant AFM where I mention a MAF (Flapper with resistor ladder, not heated wire type.) The 4Runner is the same style (AFM), but the fuel pump connector is in the passenger side wheel well and disconnecting is in the FSM.

You are absolutely spot on about the van fuel pressure relief. I was curious and did a bit of sleuthing : http://i.imgur.com/daUfvNv.jpg

No mention of a connector anywhere! And I don't think it would be very accessible...
http://i.imgur.com/S8Gl9HQ.jpg

And I certainly agree that a leaky dampener will relieve it's own pressure!

I used to always call the AFM the MAF even though I knew better. They have the same initials, just rearranged differently :yes:. The job they do is similar too, but after I started posting on forums I had to start paying better attention to terminology (too much confusion when incorrect terms are used). I remember a few months ago I spent hrs searching the forum for incorrect terms I used to use (so I could correct them and/or replace with Toyota's terminology). Of course Toyota has to make things harder by renaming multiple parts with their own names IE: a universal joint becomes a "spider assembly", a harmonic balancer becomes a "crankshaft pulley", a transmission kick-down cable becomes a "throttle cable" wtf?, etc, etc, etc (and the list goes on and on). As if that wasn't bad enough they routinely change terms (depending on what part of the manual you use). Then there's different names called out between the service manual and the parts catalogs :anger:. Oh well, all I can do is try to minimize the confusion I create. Sorry, guess I got carried away...............Rant complete :dedhrs:. Tim

Ha! No worries, I actually enjoy the disambiguation! AFM and MAF while only different in a letter arrangement are quite different in design!

It's always best not to confuse those who are still learning (which I always am!) :yes:


(FWIW on the FJ80/62s the screw-type fuel pressure dampener is renown for having the screw fall off and yielding poor fuel economy or a poor idle. One should never tighten this screw as this can cause the diaphragm to rupture, but instead when the motor is off use lock-tight to put the screw in at natural neutral (Flush with surface). Some people also use o-rings around the screw, but that may be micro-managing...)

(Ref: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what...-thing.220869/)

I've never read or heard Toyota's official explanation of why it's there, but as a tech working on similar systems I think I know (but could be wrong). Here's my understanding of what I think it is: Most pumps make pulsations when they operate. There are also pulsations created when the injectors open and close. The damper is like a small pressure reservoir with a diaphragm and a spring to help compensate and smooth out these pulsations. There are 2 different dampers Toyota used during van production. These different dampers also coincide with the change of the Fuel Pressure Regulator (later year vans have higher pressure FPR's & the different damper). Although these dampers are physically interchangeable, I believe the only difference is in internal spring pressures.

When you think about it, the diaphragm inside would need to vibrate to coincide with the pulsations. Therefore, under the nominal pressure (determined by the FPR) you would want the diaphragm to be in the neutral position. In order to maintain this, the spring pressure would need to be slightly increased or decrease to offset the different pressure. I'm also assuming that the screw (that's only on some models of dampers) is there to adjust spring pressure by changing it's compression (final step in in manufacturing is to test and adjust as required). It might also be a cost cutting measure so they can use the same damper for systems with different pressures. Lets say they have a thousand dampers all ready to ship, but they don't know which one the auto manufacturer will want. When the order comes in, all they have to do is turn the screw a half turn and "presto" they just changed the part numbers to the ones ordered by the auto maker.

Of course the alternate way would be to produce 2 different dampers each with a different spring inside (and no adjustment screw). I like this way better because there's no chance of the screw wiggling loose or having some amateur mess with it. How important is the damper? In my opinion it has it's place, but it's not very important. I've heard of people removing them and replacing with a standard banjo bolt, and they reported no difference in performance. Of course people who do things like this probably already have engines that run rough (from all the other crap they've tinkered with). I think the FPD's job is more to take stress off other fuel system components (water hammer effect). It also stands to reason that it would slightly help regulate cylinder performance. Lets say the pulsations range from 25 - 35 psi. If one injector cycles while pressure is at 25, but another cycles while at 35, then they are getting different volumes of fuel (engine might tend to shake at idle and/or one cylinder might tend to run leaner than another). I would expect this to be random and inconsequential, but it's possible at a particular RPM the frequency of the pulsation might match the frequency of the injectors. If that magic RPM is maintained for long periods, then it's conceivable the lean cylinder could sustain damage (but not likely).

Anyhow, that's the job of the FPD (according to timsrv) :dizzy:. Tim

That's my understanding as well, basically it is a hydraulic shock absorber for the system. There are instances all over the different Yota threads on problems with them backing out, and having poor idle issues, poor take-off, or similar gremlins. Many of the FJ80 guys have pretty wild claims of fuel mileage increases from the adjustment as well (E.g. 12mpg ->16+mpg).

Here's a great article I found that talks about both sides of the equation:
http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/012004_08.pdf

That was an interesting read.........and a joy to read after muddling my way through those wacky posts over on that other forum. I had previously decided not to comment regarding those guys, but dammit you got me going. So many lofty claims of increased power and fuel mileage by adjusting a factory set screw (even though most admitted they knew absolutely nothing about it)? JB welding the moving screw in place? putting "o" rings under the screw head to minimize movement........absolute insanity. It was like they were daring each other to F-up their rigs. As I moved from page to page I was desperately hoping somebody with a brain would post and save these guys from themselves............wow.......:dizzy: :LOL2:.

PS: To be fair there were at least 3 or 4 posts that made sense, but they didn't elaborate nearly enough.

It's almost like a game of "Telephone/Grapevine", only where a bit of fact gets carried on and the overall function gets obscured. I think the o-ring thing starts from some dampers had them from the factory and some didn't. I can even understand the rationale of using blue loc-tite on the screw threads to prevent it from backing out again (If it is possible to get a close to factory adjustment after the screw is removed). The JB weld though leaves me speechless...

I think it is precisely because the folks with a basic understanding didn't elaborate fully that a lot of assumptions and confusion were occurring! :LOL2:

(I did like that it was used for a quick-and-dirty, all-or-nothing fuel pressure test for basic troubleshooting.)

Could the fuel damper failing be due to another issue? Or could it lead to the failing of other components?
Outta no where my Fuel pressure damper and My ISC VSV are acting up.

Thanks for the write up, I replaced mine today. Replaced the fuel filter while I was at it. However, the low fuel light comes on and stays on now (van is at half tank)...seems to be a result of whatever I did. Anyone else have this issue?

Recently I've had a fuel smell in the cabin after driving short distances and letting the van sit for about 10-15 minutes.. I'll run into the store and come out and it smells like fuel inside only. Nothing outside. I've read all the threads about the fuel pulsation damper and it's not leaking. Recently replaced the fuel filter and rechecked all connections and hoses, they look good. Filler hose looks good. No leaks under the van or visible on any fuel lines or components I can see. No drop in fuel economy... city only has been 20-22 mpg.

The only thing I've noticed out of the ordinary is what sounds like the fuel pump stays running for about 30 seconds or a minute after turning off the van, but this is only intermittent and I'm not sure that it corresponds to the fuel smell.

I can't find a mechanic in town that knows much more than I do about working on these vans so I'm hoping you all have some suggestions. The van is a 1989 auto with right at 198K miles. I thought maybe the injectors, but again, the van runs great and there's no loss of fuel economy or power. Any help appreciated.

Check the the fuel pulsation damper again very closely. My 86.5 had the same condition. I checked it and did not nottice that it had a very small leak. The fuel would evaporate before dripping, but would create the fuel smell. When I removed it it was missing a screw that threads into the middle of the damper. My local auto parts store had a new one in stock for around $35.00. The new one was designed with no screw in the damper. I like that design better. I get kind of sketched sometimes thinking about the layout of the fuel rail and how it resides right on top of the exhaust manifold, the hottest part of the van. Nissan had a van out during this same era, that shared a similar design. I believe it was called the Vannette. According to my network contacts, the weakpoint on that van was the fuel delivery system and cooling system. There were many " THERMAL INCIDENTS " I.E. vans burned to the ground. Nissan conducted a total recall in the US and they no longer exist in the US, as far as Im aware? Bottom line, do not drive your van until you find the source of your fuel leak.

Best regards,

Blake

I decided just to try replacing the FPD since they are cheap and in stock. Once removed there was very light fuel smell and residue on the bottom of the FPD and the screw missing like most others reported. Before I was looking for leakage at the banjo fitting, not the bottom of the FPD. Hopefully that's all it is. I also inspected the injectors as best I could and don't see any evidence of leakage which is relieving. Don't really want to remove the intake.

One note, I followed the instructions for reducing fuel pressure by removing the fuse and expected to get a couple of ounces of gas, but it just kept spewing in a steady stream. Eventually I removed the fuel cap and let pressure out of the system and it stopped almost immediately. Had to leave a fan blowing in the engine compartment all night and most of the day to thoroughly dry things out while keeping a fire extinguisher handy.

As always, thanks for the advice everyone.

I've driven about 300 miles since replacing the FPD and no more fuel smell. I think it's safe to say it was the culprit.

Mods, you might want to merge this with the other FPD thread. Sorry for creating redundancy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172676281896

gonna give this one a shot, says fpd4 compatible and made is south korea...auto7 is the brand theres multiple listings, seems about half of the standard brand one..

Attachment 5716

so....my ebay order from j'ust automotive parts' was a drop ship from rockauto....do a search at rockauto for #401-0204..$9..plus shipping..threads are good, diaphram looks a little smaller...has the screw in the end...havnt actually run the engine, but im sure its fine..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

If you're looking to save money, there's an aftermarket alternative. I've been generally happy with the Standard #FPD4 dampers, but have noticed the threads to be a bit rough. As a result, I chase them with an M12 X 1.25 die & then they thread onto the fuel rail easily.

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I acquired a similar aftermarket FPD from Oreilly Auto Parts and noticed the threading was a little off - went in a little bit more rough than I would have hoped but sits snug (I was worried that I was cross-threading it, even after 10 or so attempts to meticulously place the FPD properly, and I have a steady hand).

Should I be concerned that I stripped the threading in the fuel rail? Or is a little bit of a tight snug when threading no harm?

Also, you might find this interesting. There was no fuel pulsation damper when I got my van and only realized that it was missing when diagnosing a hard start issue (thanks guys). In its place was a weird screw that had a whole in it, presumably allowing fuel to pass through. I'll post a picture of this later on this thread.

Don't know how this worked for my 3000+ mile road trip last summer... I will admit that my distributor, spark plugs, and one injector were shot resulting in me finishing my last 600 miles through the Arizona desert in June with only two cylinders firing (that was nerve-wracking to say the least). She lives to see another day though

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tennesseetoyota

Should I be concerned that I stripped the threading in the fuel rail? Or is a little bit of a tight snug when threading no harm?

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It's a steel part threading into an aluminum fuel rail. Yes it's possible to damage the fuel rail threads by forcing one with crummy threads into it. If/when the fuel rail threads strip out it becomes scrap metal. Since you managed to screw it in and tighten it enough to seal, then I'd just leave it alone. If/when you ever need to take it back off I would clean-up the damper threads before putting it back on. Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

It's a steel part threading into an aluminum fuel rail. Yes it's possible to damage the fuel rail threads by forcing one with crummy threads into it. If/when the fuel rail threads strip out it becomes scrap metal. Since you managed to screw it in and tighten it enough to seal, then I'd just leave it alone. If/when you ever need to take it back off I would clean-up the damper threads before putting it back on. Tim

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Should I be concerned about a fuel leak? I don't smell any fuel but there is some residue on the exterior of the FPD currently.

Is there any way to test for a fuel leak besides smelling for it?

Thanks as always Tim!

Wipe it off and if it comes back and smells like gas, fix it-or you'll have the char broiled edition!:pissed:

Lol, This type of fitting is reliable, but in order for things to work it should be installed with new crush washers and torqued properly. If there's thread interference, depending on how much it can be impossible to know how much of that torque is on the threads vs the crush washers. If there was a lot of torque required to seat it on the washers, then it might be better to remove, chase threads, then reinstall. Since it was forced on before, depending on how much force it took, the fuel rail threads may be damaged. As long as it can be made to thread easily AND if you can achieve torque (22 ft lbs) without the threads pulling out of the rail, then it should be fine. And don't forget to do a leak check before putting it back into service. Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

If you're looking to save money, there's an aftermarket alternative. I've been generally happy with the Standard #FPD4 dampers, but have noticed the threads to be a bit rough. As a result, I chase them with an M12 X 1.25 die & then they thread onto the fuel rail easily.

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I spent 45 minutes busting my knuckles trying to thread that rockauto FPD :wall: thanks for the advice

Quote:

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Originally Posted by reclusebrown

I spent 45 minutes busting my knuckles trying to thread that rockauto FPD :wall: thanks for the advice

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Add me to that list! Just spent an hour trying to thread that hunk of crap FPD3 into my fuel rail. Meanwhile, the old one I pulled out goes in like butter. Standard used to be a go-to for me, nice parts made in the States at reasonable prices. Now, between the jank threads on this fuel damper, and the FPR that failed within a thousand miles on my Volvo 240 (both parts most definitely NOT made in the USA!) I think this is the last Standard/Intermotor anything I'm going to buy. Guess I'll chase the threads at work and try again next week.

I had a bad FPD, and I have replaced it. Before I replaced it, I ran the van and pulled the EFI fuse, to lessen the amount of fuel in the fuel rail. When I tried to start it after the fix, I have no power to anything. The battery is charged. Is there an obvious thing this could be, related to pulling the fuse, or just something coincidental?

I can't see how it would be related to anything you did (most likely coincidental). Make sure your battery cables are tight and check the fusible links listed in THIS THREAD.

At the beginning of this thread the FPD (for an 88) is referred to as PN 23207-12005. When I enter that into toyotapartsdeal.com it comes up as “no results”. I’m confused. Should it be 23270-12005 (also comes up as “no results”)

When I enter the 86-87 part number (23270-50011) it says it doesn’t fit my 88, but suggests 2 alternatives.

Alternative 1, PN 23270-52011 is NLA.

Alternative 2, lists as PN 23270-73010 (replaced by 23270-50012).

any suggestions?

I would feel more comfortable with genuine Toyota, but will chase the threads on the rockauto standard #fpd4 if these are NLA from Toyota.

thanks. Dave

EDIT:

reading more threads (specifically “Rough Starts” thread). Member JDM lists the pulsation damper as PN 23207-16020 (NLA). Per toyotapartsdeal.com, this part number is for mfg date 8/83-2/87.

so.many.part numbers.

I just wanted to chime in.

I have run a Herko PR4033 for three years now. It's been flawless, and it threaded on fine. I should also mention my fuel system sees a fluctuating pressure from 48 to 65+psi depending on boost level, so this damper can take a beating.

https://herko.com/productinfo.php?inv=1307

Regarding OEM parts, vans produced from 08/1983 through 01/1987 used FPD #23270-52011 which was replaced by #23207-16020 which is now NLA. Vans produced from 02/1987 through 07/1988 used FPD #23270-73010 which was replaced by #23270-50012 which according to www.toyotapartsdeal.com is currently still available.

All of the above listed part numbers are physically interchangeable. The only difference with them is the pressures at which they are meant to operate. The only thing that controls pressure (other than max output of fuel pump) is the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Toyota recognized the need to increase pressure in the 1988 models and along with the higher output FPR's came the new FPD's . If you want to keep it all Toyota, you could upgrade to the 88-89 FPR and the 88-89 FPD, then both would be matched and the van would have slightly less tendency to exhibit heat soak issues.

Of course I've see people intermix these parts, and although it's not something I would recommend, things still seem to still function okay. With these vans getting older and parts drying up we'll all eventually be forced to use aftermarket parts and/or adapt things that didn't originally belong. Good luck! Tim

I just replaced my FPD (second one in the 15 years I've owned the van, it was an aftermarket one without the little screw, started leaking around the seam where it's swaged together, could only see fuel dripping at startup when van was cold.) I got the Rockauto Standard FPD4 ($27) and threads were fine, screwed in with no drama. It can be a bit hard getting the threads lined up with the rigid fuel line misdirecting it. The box said "Intermotor/SMP/Made in Mexico" and came with two crush washers which was nice to not have to go digging for some. Both washers had the inner tabs to keep it centered, I used a standard copper crush washer on the top since Toyota only has the special washer on the bottom.

I didn't bother depressurizing the system (I figure the leak took care of that) and only a little fuel came out.