hello all, introduce my van

this is my first van onwership . i've had toyota's for long enough, all of that time of spent working on them :yes:

well, dont spit at me.. i have a 90/91 CR30 bodied 4wd 2ct , its not the exact van i wanted, i wanted a retro square 'van' but, they are very rare , not more than 80 on this island, and usually can see daylight through the arches, reluctantly i brought a newer one, it still had a charm about it and had all the goodies i want, 4wd bieng the main one, part camper conversion, 2.0 turbo diesel i can live with that, toyota bieng the last tick.

i thought about other vans but i know a little about toyotas so it swayed me to stay the brand whore.
I brought it as non running with bubbling in the coolant cap. not really scared with engine faults, i'm more interested to rip it apart and see whats wrong . i hope ive posted in the right section, i dont see a cr30 type section.

here's some shots of the new family member. The head was fairly screwed, i've been cutting my knuckles for about 5 months on and off repairing it so far. it was clogged with sludge / oil around all the pipes, 3 of the valve stems well coked up 2 cracked ports on 2 different cylinders.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psd7a9d386.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps4a669d5c.jpg

i also found a warped manifold, very warped, about 0.125” on length / x plane, and about 0.050” in the width / Y.
The last owner has it taken to a repair shop for a leaking manifold. Less than 3000km later the cylinder head cracked in 2 position. The repair shop had tried torquing up the exh manifold to flatten it, and stripped the threads from the head. So they repaired the threads with v coils, and just torqu’ed it up again = losers. When i removed it it was plain to see that it contributed to the cracked cylinder head.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps47672eae.jpg

i swapped out the old hardware into a new cylinder head .

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psc43b0193.jpg


Put a new core in the turbo. Turbo play was on limit, just , but i thought i would swap in a new one while i had the head off.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps09866515.jpg

Ct12

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps6730a2e9.jpg

Redressed the bent flange to how it should have been, local shop guy just used a large flat linishing belt. It was flat i checked with a straight edge

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psdadb939c.jpg


Back in the van

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps33718e3d.jpg


Decided to cut out this idle viscous fan pulley since the last owner had an electric fan put direct onto the rad.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps7b8d30cf.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps5c806f74.jpg

new belts are 35.433" long
gates 6466MC

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps6b10cfd3.jpg

found some play in the oil pump was about 0.018" if you rock it back forward in a circular motion etc.
i stripped it off as a precaution to find out the state of the internals, man what a job that is ! you have to remove the torsion bar and drop the engine 2 inches to remove the sump pan, then the #2 baffle plate, theen you can remove the sump pan

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps506e1093.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps0s8d3s9h.mp4
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps0s8d3s9h.mp4


http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps06b2e087.jpg

found a little wear in the rotor shaft

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psa2d66b54.jpg

and not so much in the housing bore of the pump, still, together they allowed 0.018" of rock, a little much, although no problem on oil pressure to report.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psba70c0eb.jpg

i rebuilt the pump with a new rotor and shaft and put a little grease on the shaft refited the pump repaired / patched up the sump pan because it was rotten in a few spots. started the engine, within 45 seconds idleing the engine came to a sudden stop. oh 5hit! the oil pump seized up. i think greasing the shaft was a bad idea, after removing the oil pump the shaft was seized solid, probably didnt allow the oil to flow to the shaft properly.

replaced with new pump and refitted, man, i wouldnt wish that job twice on anyone.
started again, this time with no pregrease of the pump. no issues , pump still running.

sump is here

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps8feabda3.jpg

shows rotor shaft play on new pump, about 0,010"

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psv2m4ugho.mp4

van as it stands now, added OP and boost gauge. boost gauge is working, i have issues with the OP because it messes with the original sender , i have them both on the same branch of air fittings tucked under the alternator, another pain of a job, still, you all know what a pain these vans are to work on so i feel im in good company :lol:

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps0f3259e2.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps07835a78.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psca48a949.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps992d9004.jpg

loads of room without seats

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps14a7ac3f.jpg

room for a 10"L x8"W x 14" deep intercooler in here is good news since the stock cooling gives head problems

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps9a4c54ce.jpg

still giving me problems but i am working through it

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps03e6d2fa.jpg

time for a barby :wnk:

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps62b770d4.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps50064886.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps455a179f.jpg

current issues are electrical , i have a loose connection somewhere. van is stuttering on acceleration mechanically. losing faith quick now. i have done so far, new cambelt & idler bearings, new cylinder head, head bolts, head gasket, oil pump, injectors checked, manifold remachined, turbo re-cored, new drilled 2 x 1/8" holes thermostat, big ends checked, sump pan repaired, new fluids of course!. still not running right. back to the garage for more punishme:dizzy:

I have no experience with diesels, but I know about the general challenges of working on these. Impressive what you've done so far. Looks like you got through all the expensive and most difficult things. Now it's just a little fine tuning & finish work. It's clear you have motivation and drive, so I'm sure you'll get there. Enjoy your van and thanks for posting :thmbup:. Tim

took it out for a little run . starts o.k, idle's very joggy almost stalling until its warmed up at which point its smooth idling. i did about 5 miles. its pushing 6 pounds boost according to the gauge, could be +/-1 either way i think. i should be seeing a little more i think maybe upto 7-8psi, anyone have any experience here of normal boost level?
i am going to check the joins are tight, check manifold /turbo studs are tight and i have no gas leaks.

The diesel vans were excluded from the US market. Most of us on this forum are in the USA, so the majority here won't be of any help. We do however have a few members from other markets. Hopefully one or more will be able to help (but I wouldn't hold my breath). You might try looking for a forum where these things are popular. Over the years I've stumbled on one or two (but don't remember where). I think there's a good one based in the UK.........probably Japan too (but you'd need to know Japanese). Do a Google search with key words like "toyota 2ct forum" Good luck. Tim

Nice detailed work and documentation:thmbup::thmbup::thmbup: like Tim said there are a lot of members in the UK and Australia as well but I haven't visited the sites in a while.

this a good forum, its alive, chasis and body is the same, engines different , no matter to me. there is one other site i know , i may use it later.

when i took it out the other day, heard a few squeaks which sounded like manifold leaks,

here's a soundbyte of a loose manifold on a turbo diesel:

http://www.mediafire.com/listen/f4r0...e+squeal+3.mp3

that was earlier in my project, that time has long passed. i suspected all kind of things like belts and pump/pulley shafts. i had the whole front of the engine off. i found the leaky manifold last, as luck would have it :lol: i have refitted a freshly skimmed manifold and new oem gaskets over the december period.

some pictures when i was re-fitting the exhaust manifold , imagining the left handers are a mirror image of the RH drive vehicles, that little hatch for working down, man, what a pain. still, better than stripping down the centre console and removing the drivers seat pan everytime.

if your going to remove your exhaust manifold, have it skimmed and use new studs everytime, its relatively low money considering the amount of pain you go through to remove/refit.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...pse9d826c5.jpg

it IS possible to remove the exh manifold through the hole if you have some good socket bars, i use a craftsmen 3/8 flex head teardrop ratchet, i also got a 1/2" one, they have to be the best two tools in my box.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps4c5c5e0e.jpg

I also use one of these which is a fantastic invention which i only just remembered i had in my box when i was struggling with getting a long torque wrench down the hatch

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psf951c039.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps8b1fcacc.jpg

xmas has passed, time to get out and do something , i over tightened an inlet manifold bolt! , ping, whoops. that killed off yesterday for me, i was only trying to eliminate what i thought was a manifold squeak .

anyway, proceeded to remove the cam belt, diesel pump, inlet manifold, to get to the sheared bolt.
its not possible to remove the inlet manifold without removing the diesel pump, what a day!, used a short power drill / screwdriver to get the offending bolt out, handy having small drill. tapped it out the next metric size up, that must hack you guys off using metric fittings? :lol: i have both tool kits.

got it back together today, its running again on the driveway.

One more job to do before some more road testing, the last owner rigged up an electrical PCB which controlled the radiator fan on/off temps by using a thermocouple plunged into the lower water outlet in the block (just after the thermostat) , well it snapped off today its so small and delicate :). i do not like the PCB box of tricks controlling the fans, so i'm hunting a safer solution. i think i will use a regular fan switch in a t-piece to govern the fans by relays. theres two rads in this van for some weird reason, its deeper than your average motor what with 4wd and an auto transmission thats for sure.

are you using viscous fans or electric in the gasoline models? i got two electric fans and two rads, is that common?

I would love a diesel 4wd van, and I'm pretty sure we can more easily import 1990 Diesel Vans from Canada in 2015-because of the 25 year import rules. Now I just need to find the money for one.:wnk:
Anyways, our vans have two radiators if they have A/C. The engine radiator fan has a belt driven viscous(pretty sure it's name) clutch and the A/C fan is electric. Many people have done away from the belt driven engine fan for dual-electric fans. Here's a fan thermostat thread:
http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...=electric+fans
And here's a build thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...=electric+fans
That's a sweet Van you have!

adamh, to me that squeak/rattle sounds more like a heat shield on the manifold. Could also be a rattle between the pipe and the bell housing bracket.

DJ, Our vans only have one radiator. The thing under the front with fans is the AC condenser. Technically I guess you could call it a radiator (it does radiate heat), but it's got Freon inside (not coolant). From what I understand, some of the diesel vans (foreign markets) have a 2nd radiator in this location, but our gasoline powered vans have an AC condenser here. Tim

Oh whoops. So much for my misinformation- I still want a diesel van though Tim.
So where is his a/c condenser or does he not have A/C?

Since I've never seen one in person I don't know for sure. Back before TVP deleted their photo gallery there were several pics of this there. I seem to recall it's mounted sideways right in front of the rack. I also seem to recall it looked like a fricking mess up there (hoses, wires, fans, etc all crammed into a tight location). I think the AC condenser was up there too, but don't remember the exact lay-out. Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djshimon

I would love a diesel 4wd van, and I'm pretty sure we can more easily import 1990 Diesel Vans from Canada in 2015-because of the 25 year import rules. Now I just need to find the money for one.:wnk:
Anyways, our vans have two radiators if they have A/C. The engine radiator fan has a belt driven viscous(pretty sure it's name) clutch and the A/C fan is electric. Many people have done away from the belt driven engine fan for dual-electric fans. Here's a fan thermostat thread:
http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...=electric+fans
And here's a build thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...=electric+fans
That's a sweet Van you have!

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thanks for that thread information its what I was looking for . it Had AC which was decommissioned (butcher'd) so I took out the compressor and idler pulley and shelved it. I need to confirm exactly what rads I have, although it is the main one I need the control for.
you have not long to wait for 2015, 2ct is the first I stumbled across, it had a ok body, i was searching for a year to get a fair condition shell

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

adamh, to me that squeak/rattle sounds more like a heat shield on the manifold. Could also be a rattle between the pipe and the bell housing bracket.

DJ, Our vans only have one radiator. The thing under the front with fans is the AC condenser. Technically I guess you could call it a radiator (it does radiate heat), but it's got Freon inside (not coolant). From what I understand, some of the diesel vans (foreign markets) have a 2nd radiator in this location, but our gasoline powered vans have an AC condenser here. Tim

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do you mean the exhaust pipe bracket and bell housing?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamh

do you mean the exhaust pipe bracket and bell housing?

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Yes, sometimes the clamp fits loosely and it rattles on the down pipe. Your video sounded more like a heat shield though. Sometimes they crack, get loose, and/or hit on something else. The audible vibrations start when the engine RPM's match the vibration frequency of the shroud. The inside of Cat converters and mufflers can do this too, but usually they are far enough away from the engine bay to easily identify. Tim

BTW: Here's a thread that talks about the factory clutch fans in our USA market vans: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...g-(fan-clutch)

here is a look at the current radiator fan setup

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps83cd853a.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps356fe127.jpg

this is where the custom sensor was located to, its the hot flow from the block to the rad, the 180deg thermostat is located sandwiched between the block and the cast aluminum pipe here.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps1f05cb49.jpg

a view of the room down there

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psc80b973a.jpg

I am going to update some things here. i will put a bike fan near the turbo area (other side to this image). the fan relay will be governed by one of these $15 thermistor kits which switches has its own 10a relay , you can wire no/nc output choice. i used one before on an engine bay fan and just pushed the thermistor out on fly leads to top of bay, it works o.k , quick response on = quick reponse off, needs an off delay but will do for an aux fan, its just to shift the static air by exh manifold turbo.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps7a7d408e.jpg

need to have a look at this possible second radiator before i do anything with the first (was thinking of dual fan dual sensor ), it confuses the issue of cooling, i have no idea yet how its plumbed. will update later.

Since this is a foreign animal to me, I can't say for sure, but seems like there should be a shroud for that electric fan. Cooling fans only work at full efficiency when they move air through the entire radiator (and only the radiator). The idea of the shroud is to maximize air flow through the area where it's needed. Without one, a fan mounted like that will only be about 50% efficient. Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

Since this is a foreign animal to me, I can't say for sure, but seems like there should be a shroud for that electric fan. Cooling fans only work at full efficiency when they move air through the entire radiator (and only the radiator). The idea of the shroud is to maximize air flow through the area where it's needed. Without one, a fan mounted like that will only be about 50% efficient. Tim

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i thought that also. two smaller 9" fans would cover more sq area even without a shroud. the fan is 11, the rad area is approx 20" x 12". / 515 x 310mm. is it the same as gasoline size?.

Yes. Not sure how interchangeable they would be, but that's really close to the size of the gasoline van's radiator core (of course we only have 1 radiator). We can just barely fit 2 10" fans on ours. Tim

thanks for the input.

i had a look at your threads and radiator shroud, excellent job. i thought about stuff.
im going with two sensors, it'l be experimentation to find the sweet spots during the summer at the worst /hottest time.

one just after the rad exit. one just after the block (unconfirmed ! but best i can think of) . I will run a new temp gauge with sender from the head, the stock gauge is trash with un numbered divisions . I guess i'm looking at between 180-203? deg optimal temperature of the head.

why am i doing all this?
the original cylinder head cracked across two combustion chamber ports, the banana manifold and overtorquing studs did not help stress. does not look like this fan was doing much , also the temp sender which turn on the rad fan was 2 feet away from the rad on the cylinder block, so.. if the rad had finished pumping through a load of hot, possibly the colder coolant then came through the block?, shut off the stat, sender next to stat went cold, fans didnt come on . as far i understand the cooling system in the previous set up was not really efficient. i really dont want to swap out another cylinder head

all of these factors Must lead to the two cracks, apart from the obvious, thinest part cracks first! . its a common fault in the 2ct/3ct i found a history of since buying it.

i am going to change it to 2 x 9" 755cfm 7.5A spal suckers + quick sketched tin shroud to mount them.
its the biggest i can fit diameter wise , i can always run them slower. i took the idea from your shroud :thmbup: , made it fit with my chosen fans and rad for this van.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps307bc16d.jpg

i'll have it cut, folded and mig'd. wish i could do that myself

Nice. I look forward to seeing pics of the finished product. It's such a challenge to get enough air up into these areas (everything crammed in on top of everything else). I think you're on the right path. Tim

i got the shroud made. i took some pics for reference. this rad is original i guess, from an imported
90/91 cr30 bodied 2.0td. unsure what else it fits. approx 20x12 " core, give or take quarter of an inch

there are some tags at the bottom one either side these are great for holding , my sheet shroud slots nicely in and is supported with them.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps2730b97d.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psec5d07c6.jpg

the clearence from the front diff is about 0.125" with a thickness of shroud 1.050"
it fit without removing anything

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psf6e18953.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psb2b4d705.jpg

the original tags on top of the rad for original viscous shroud (i think because i never saw it!) just have to bend up a touch to clear the captive nuts and it pops right in. i will use some kind of latch in these two position to clamp the shroud to rad.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps250786ae.jpg

just need to rust proof it with some paint and put some push on foam lip seal around the edge it be ready to bolt on the fans.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps4e9c9de1.jpg

That's a beautiful piece of work. Nice job!

been away from home a while. managed to get some time on the cooling bits. could not find any beam clamps locally so i made some up. shroud is ready to fit and made a simple m16 x 1.5 adaptor for the 1/8npt durite sensor i will be using for cyl head temp gauge (stock gauge is no good) un linear response. im going for a painless performance F5 dual fan controller, not heard so many bad things about them, seems like it'l work! . just got to wire it all in .

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psgmmlhzec.jpg

regualr steel beam clamps will work if you can find em

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psl4orvepi.jpg

small adaptor making durite sender as long as possible

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psmyywujw5.jpg

sensor location for fan control is at the moment bottom inlet to rad

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psayuwfe91.jpg

That's an impressive looking fan unit (big motor and massive blade pitch). I see from a previous post they are 2 x 9" 755cfm 7.5A spal suckers. I will be interested to hear about performance. Where did you get them? Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

That's an impressive looking fan unit (big motor and massive blade pitch). I see from a previous post they are 2 x 9" 755cfm 7.5A spal suckers. I will be interested to hear about performance. Where did you get them? Tim

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kool it , paso robles CA. pn: VA02/AP70 -LL40 . i was hoping the shroud would make up for the compact fans, should use 100% of rad instead of 43%. when your guessing a design just squeeze what ya can! if it runs50% duty it'll be excellent, wait and see i guess

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamh

kool-it , paso robles CA. (also on auction site as kool-it)

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. couldnt find any on the shelf over here

Just discovered the diesel thread... nice work. I am a new owner of one of these. 89 master ace surf. I imported it from BC to Washington state. Working on getting a couple new break parts in and the cooling system before I can put some miles on it and see what else she needs.

good luck with it, plenty of road testing to be had with Toyota that's for sure :-)

finally, i got 240km munched today. Passed the big test last week, still weeping on a rear brake cylinder (drum) and needs tracking, but good to go.
its a hoot! like driving a motorized see saw.. bobs up and down under the 1700 kg weight, panoramic view, slow as f**k bieng the auto diesel, but its got character and its got gadgets and 4wd , whats not to love.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zG1L...layer_embedded

now to make the interior a little less purple , and get some running water inside, make it more camping equipped

like to report back so far the Painless F5 seems fairly sensible,
it ramps up the first fan for a few seconds, then ramps in the second, at 50% duty set at your lowest setting i.e 160f, then your highest setting (the other POT) for 100% duty will be set at your higher chosen temp by dialling in the pot perhaps 200f .. the controller creates a linear rise of fan speed per degree set point between low and high from 50-100% duty on the fans.

reading of coolant measuring the head temp using the durite, the sender is gauging just below the inlet manifold, reading is stable at 194 slow , 203 fast moving, but it seems fairly unconnected with the fans on and off cycle i am seeing (alot). really it would be ideal to get not only a sender with the kit, but also a LCD readout so you can actually see what your setting the F5 to. is there any easy way to measure the coolant temps while running without installing another gauge?

Wow Adamh,

not only are your mechanical skills impressive but your video/music editing was very enjoyable:thmbup:

thank you for sharing those ideas that I can only enjoy vicariously thru your skills!

On a side note if your ever able to get a hold of some rear taillight assemblies I could totally use a set.

Nice documentation and thank you for sharing!!

Awesome post and video!!! Thanks for posting. :thmbup: Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDM VANMAN

Wow Adamh,

not only are your mechanical skills impressive but your video/music editing was very enjoyable:thmbup:

thank you for sharing those ideas that I can only enjoy vicariously thru your skills!

On a side note if your ever able to get a hold of some rear taillight assemblies I could totally use a set.

Nice documentation and thank you for sharing!!

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looking for a tail light myself, i have a cracked one, seems like they are quite rare . i have seen them with orange lenses up top but not clear ones which is what is on the other side of my van.

i would like to report back another successful 150 mile drive.
ambient temps was 51F / 11C
speed varied upto 60mph, it was also raining on and off
running temp is a constant 194-198 deg F (90-92deg c) peaking once i think at 201f (94c) after a long slow climb on a hill. (according to gauge)
i have seen it run 198-203 but on a much hotter day with ambient temperature 77f (25degc).

it was raining today so i got free charge cooling!.
boost is nominally 2-5 psi when just coasting about, when freewheeling its zero of course.
when foot is down i am showing only 6psi max.
The gauge i am using is fairly low cost so i expect a psi or two either way tolerance.
Given the fact it a low HP engine (85ps) and 3500lb weight constantly on boost i think it would be advantageous to intercool it, wether i get the time or not is another factor, it certainly has the room where the stock air filter fits to squeeze in a cooler and fan and a drop the air filter lower


i have not yet dialled in my F5 fan controller properly but it seems to work good, i set the ON temperature fairly low on the POT , so it comes on at a low temperature , i am unsure what the actual temperature is but the way i see it as soon as the thermostat opens at 180f the fans should come on so the 'low' on potentiometer should be lower than the thermostat.
i dont know at which road speed the fans make no difference, i think i'll wire in a dash led so i can have a look at the fan habits at higher speeds.

there is a speed signal cut off for the fans which picks up off the vehicles speed signal wire so if i can find the VSS wire i may use it later.

its a ball driving these vans :)

blacked out the bus today, 80% on rear its slightly lighter in 1st person. its a camper so when its full of stuff and we are inside the stuff is not so visible. slightly lighter in 1st person.

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afterburners :-) fancy a ride back to 1955?

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Hey hopefully you're still active on these forums. May I ask what that large box is in front of your center console? Is that the ice box? I ask this because I have been looking at making a custom subwoofer box with cup holders in the same position and now that I see this box, it's perfect! Now I just need to find one.

That is in fact an icebox. Actually, none US spec vans usually got a hot/cold box while the US vans just got the optional icebox.