Wondering if anybody has replaced the sliding window seals on their van? The window I'm speaking of is right behind the front seats. My van is a cargo van I believe with what I've read from here that has windows added?
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Wondering if anybody has replaced the sliding window seals on their van? The window I'm speaking of is right behind the front seats. My van is a cargo van I believe with what I've read from here that has windows added?
We'd ALL love to come up with those seals. Long, long NLA.
You have OEM windows on that van, and no doubt it came that way. The 2nd gen 2WD cargos came in both window and panel versions (4WD were panel only; 1st gen were window only).
Gwen
Thanks Gwen, I'm still picking up info as I go. My seals seam ok, but it's like they have drawn up or shrunk in the corners. I'm wondering if I can add some type of rubber conditioner and stretch them back into the corners...😁
I used black silicone to fill the gaps and reseal it. Same around the windshield.. Repeat every other year or as needed. No leaks or drips.
How does the silicone work where the window slides? Maybe I'm misunderstanding how you mean that.
These always shrink and look bad. Windows don't slide or close right if let go for too long. I've redone mine by removing the window from the van, removing the glass, then removing the seal. After everything is washed and clean I put it all back together. When putting the seal back in I pretend I've got an endless supply and force as much excess as possible into the groove (especially the radius parts). This makes it sit nice in the corners but makes it come up about 4 or 5 inches too short. To fill the gap I have another old seal I pulled from a junk yard van that I cut pieces out of. I've done this on 3 different vans and they always come out nice. It is however time consuming and somewhat of a PITA. It's hard to justify the time/effort but in the end it's worth it. Tim
That sounds like what I'd want to do. I'd thought about piecing them together and even asked about some seals from a few parts vans on here but no responses. How difficult to remove the window/glass?Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
FYI, there's a "c" shaped interior molding that needs to come off (just pull it off with your fingers), then the frame is attached (glued) to the exterior body with a stubborn black, sticky, stretchy, non-hardening putty. That stuff holds on really good, but some careful prying along with steady pressure will help pull it away. I usually get a razor blade knife in there and slice it while it's being stretched. Once it's separated don't let it touch itself again or it will bond instantly. After you get about 1/3 the way around the frame it starts getting easier.
When I put the window back in I inspect to make sure the the putty is still in the right places, then simply line it up and push it back in. The molding snaps back in to insure it won't fall out. Using a heat gun to make the putty soft (before installation) will help insure a good seal, but sitting in the sun on a nice hot day will do the same thing. This time of year I'd probably use a heat gun. Tim
Thanks Tim! I'll see what I can find as far as used seals go and I'll dig into it. 👍🏼👍🏼
Sorry to dig up an old thread... but has anyone looked into aftermarket solutions from the RV world and had any success? My channel is starting to shrink and expose the relief slits in the outer radius..
https://www.dkhardware.com/universal...CABEgLy3fD_BwE
It may be an old thread but new solutions are always welcome... if you happen to make the purchase and repair please share your results:thmbup:
JDM
Do not waste your money on the CRL universal double wide channel...it is way too wide to fit properly in the channels.
I searched high and low a couple of years ago for a suitable rubber channel replacement. There are only a few places that I could find with the closest match to the 84-89 Toyota Van sliding windows, and the place with the best price was in Australia. At the time, I could not find anyone in the USA with the product in stock.
I will make it easy for everyone...
https://www.jenkinsrubber.com.au/sto...nel/SGC-64-020
It is sold by the "metre". You will need 3 metres per side...6 metres will be enough to do both sides.
Great company and wouldn't hesitate to do business with them again.
I emailed them for a price shipped to California.
They responded quickly with a quote (within 24 hours), and were happy to take Paypal for payment.
I paid approximately $80 USD shipped for 6 metres back in January 2017. The invoice sent to me was $125.28 AUD, not U.S. Dollars. Like I said, the total was about $80 in U.S. Dollars. Don't worry, Paypal will automatically convert your payment at the current conversion rates.
The rubber channel is very flexible, but will be flattened and rolled up from shipping. No need to make relief cuts in the corners. Just leave the rubber channel out in the sun for awhile to loosen it up and use "3m 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive" to keep it stuck in place.
I used a paper hole-punch to make holes on the bottom channel where the weep-hole drains are located. It's a good idea to test-fit the rubber channel first (without using the 3m adhesive), so you can cut the piece to length and mark the locations for the weep-hole drains. Be sure to refer to the original rubber channels, so you get the proper layout of which channel has a hole at each weep-hole drain.
You will also need to make cutouts for the vertical center bar. I used a smaller X-acto knife with snap-off blades for those, but be careful...it is easy to cut too much
This is not a quick project. I spent countless hours on it, so don't expect to have it done before lunchtime on your day off.
Cali Cruiser
thank you for the link a quick write up!!:thmbup:
JDM
Hey ya'll - Im hoping someone has guidance on finding a replacement window seal for my 1991 Toyota Liteace. Photo attached. Thank you!Attachment 12616
Companies, such as steelerubber.com have hundreds of options for various rubber seals on a vehicle. I have used them for some other classic car projects.
Many of the seals are a universal type, so take the most accurate measurements of your seal, and compare the "profile shape" of your seal to the hundreds of options available. You should be able to find something that will work. Good luck
I redid a GM car G-model once (mid-size Station wagon from the '80's). I live near Pick-Your-Part in Sun Valley CA. Across the street was a small warehouse full of weather stripping & several small crews installing rubber foam on doors and windows. Most is Universal stuff, Not unlike you would buy from J.C. Whitney. I got everything on the car replaced, save the strip along the bottom of the back window, which I just used the peal and stick foam you but for a camper top. It was $200 in 1995.
Ive read the other comments and agree it's hard to find anything for the wonder wagon. I just wanted to add this resource to check out. At least you can see the product before ordering stock online unseen.
The salvage yard district of any city should have such business' around. I would check out a Toyota only yard, go up to the counter and show some scrap samples, Ask if they know of any local suppliers or shops that they would point you towards. I found out over the years that if you call on the phone they will get rid of you the minuite they realize you're not going to buy anything from them. IF however you drive to them and show off your van, they love seeing a classic still on the road and will chat with you a bit. Give them time to jog their memory. You might walk away with some places to check out.
:?:
Looks like a RV style. I would find a RV repair shop or a camper top factory. there are lots of those in the L.A. area and 'burbs. Usually along old highways. There was an RV scrapper somewhere in South Central L.A. along Vernon Ave. I've lost it since the lock-down stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by iroz44
Good Luck
Anyone had any luck finding compatible non-OEM rear sliding window seals for 89 van lately?
See a couple of posts up, by Cali Cruiser. I got some recently, and intend to install them soon (for me soon is in the next two months :rol: )
Thanks Jan-Wilem. I have that link to Jenkins rubber from Australia ready to go! Still looks to be $105 Aussie dollars. I’ll give that a try.
Please update us. Pics if possible!Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamWagon
Wow! I just finally got onto this site, last week I cut the whole window out of a cargo van, the sliding track seals have shrunken however I have the whole enchilada and I plan to put it on my bench and work on the track gaskets and figure out how to properly service my wives van sliding windows. I want to try that Jenkins rubber source. Thank you for that info
I did not get the Australian windows seals to work for me :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Jan-Willem
Cutting the holes in the right places was easy. But I needed to make the release cuts in the corners to make it fit, like the originals. I eventually got the seals in, and with much force, I got both the windows in as well, but with both windows in, they are impossible to slide. The material is just way thicker than the original seal, I think 3 times as thick.
I increased the size of the original seal by boiling it, and soaking it, in some leak-stop. (ok, I let it sit a bit too long, the seal is a bit too long now)
Currently I am in the slow processs of glueing it back in the frame...
Be sure to test window sliding operation before installing the window assembly back into the van. You will need to adjust the tension of the screws that hold the center vertical bar in place.
If the vertical center bar (that divides the windows) is screwed down completely, it squeezes the horizontal sections of the frame track together too tightly and the windows will not slide at all. The screws will need to be backed out a few turns to get proper sliding function. If I remember correctly, the screws were only turned-in a couple of times to hold that center vertical bar in place.
If I were to do this project again, I would also place small removable wedges in between the glass corners and the rubber channel at the middle, to ensure the frame doesn't get bowed in when the window assembly is installed. Keeping a proper gap for the glass to slide smoothly in the channel is important.
Also, I used modern-day window urethane for my install instead of the messy butyl.
I think your window frame must be different to mine. I do not have screws top and bottom, only the one on top. On the bottom mine does not have any screw, or place to put one, just a big hole for that divider to go trough. But mine does have a plastic spacer for the glass in the middle.
Anyway, it is not a height issue, but a width issue. Even if i only put an inch of that seal in the frame, i cannot slide both pieces of glass when I push them in. It is so tight, it actually bulges the frame when i put the glass in that little bit of seal.
it looks well enough out of the frame.
Attachment 13233
But the channels in my frame are 9mm ( little under 3/8 inch) when i compress the seal to that width:
Attachment 13234