Random 92 Awd stalling issue ..

I have a 92 previa , she has 260k on her and runs like a top ..sometimes it will stall on the freeway
sometimes it stalls in town , or when parked on a hill .. Or rolling into a turn .. Once stalled she won't start for 5-30 min .. Sometimes it will start back by pumping the gas will rolling in gear .. (Have to be going fast)

Ive replaced the MAF with a salvaged one .. Not it !

It it starts right up if I use starting fluid but sounds like a diesel for a second ..

Oldly ky it seems to do it more often with a full tank !!

Could it be either fuel cut off valves ? Starts easy with starting fluid and if the air box is off it won't start .. ( MAF )

thanks for any help ..

distributor, cap, rotor? distributor o ring? plugs? wires?

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Originally Posted by gshadow32

distributor, cap, rotor? distributor o ring? plugs? wires?

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living on the Oregon coast I thought the same thing ..

I just pulled the throttle body off (pain in ass with those hard to get at violent lines !) the big hole on the right side of the carb was totally plugged with a growth of debris black and rocky jetting into passway.. There was a bit (couple table spoons ) of motor oil in the intake manifold ?

i also changed the fuel filter ...

seems to to be running much better 10 min of driving .. See how it holds up :)

rotor cap wire replaced 15k ago .. Not by me

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Originally Posted by Tjsprevia

living on the Oregon coast I thought the same thing ..

I just pulled the throttle body off (pain in ass with those hard to get at violent lines !) the big hole on the right side of the carb was totally plugged with a growth of debris black and rocky jetting into passway.. There was a bit (couple table spoons ) of motor oil in the intake manifold ?

i also changed the fuel filter ...

seems to to be running much better 10 min of driving .. See how it holds up :)

rotor cap wire replaced 15k ago .. Not by me

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well not it , parked it for 10 min wouldn't start , starting fluid work but it sounds like a diesel when it first fires ! Normal?

Still no luck , I took it to 2 mechanics locally, asked one to do an injector clean (he didn’t ) the other said blown motor , but soon realized he never looked at it either .

off to the dealer for an injector clean 175.00:( the van is finally throwing codes , it did this shortly after installing a fuel pressure gauge and driving around..

cyclinders are at 100. 108. 104. 110 which is amazing for a rig with 2900000 miles ..

its not fuel pressure 38 psi-44-psi

starts up with starting fluid ,
seems to die when cruising st lower speeds after coming off high speeds
only does it when warm or hot
will start back up when slightly cooler or after 25 min


Seems like 3 codes popping , I can’t tell maybe I should send a vid ? For help with reading them ?

Thanks for any advise

I was having a simular issue.
My previa has got 290,000kms and was neglected for the past 2 years..
It was having an issue where it would take a few extra cranks to start, and once warm it would idle up and stall, sometimes without idling up. And wouldn't turn on for 5-10 min's.
I did a tuneup
Spark plugs
Cap and rotor ( which was full of oil)
Air filter
OIL change
And this did not fix it
So I took the throttle body out and cleaned it, along with the vacuum lines around the throttle body. I noticed a port on the right side of the intake manifold leads to the egr valve, it was completely gummed up with carbon.
I used multiple picks, carb cleaner and slammed it back together and the idle and die issue has vanished.
Theres also a screw you can take out between the port and the egr valve, that can help you dig out some of that carbon.
There's a good chance your egr vacuum system is clogged and causing vacuum problems

Yeah I was thinking it was the EGR.. I did the same thing you did , removed the TB and cleaned all the ports .. but the EGR valve tube was stuffed with black crystals..

i couldnt get the thing off .. even after buying a crows foot tool

my rig just stalled again this morning , it was on my way to work and stalled in the exact same spot as it did yesterday..

it seems to do this(stall) when I’m off the throttle comming down “the hill” ..

funny thing I did notice on this tank, is that it didn’t stall until the take was half full ..

fired back up without starting fluid this time after 10 min ..

Judt stalled again while driving ..pulled into the Spanish grocery.. won’t start , shot with fluid . Won’t start , started for a second sounded like a diesel .. died .. re roflroflroflrofl started fluid , cranked for a while .. started drove 200 feet died again .. just roflroflroflrofl roflroflroflrofl roflroflroflrofl roflroflroflrofl ..

Im having stalling issues too, this owner recently had his fixed because of the EGR valve not functioning.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...s/topics/60707

I have a bunch of EGR info in the following zipped file... part manual and translated info/pictures from an Asian forum
http://www.mediafire.com/file/kvq002...%20EGR%20+.rar

Im trying to figure out how the EGR works through YouTube and see which manuals instruction will test the EGR valve function only before trying to clean it and run it for a difference.

It does indeed sound like an EGR problem. EGR is supposed to suck up exhaust fumes from the exhaust and redirect it to the intake. Of course this also sucks in carbon, and once mixed with oil from the PCv, you get clogging. EGR primarily does its job once the vehicle is warmed up, because EGR function is to keep combustion temperatures down, lowering toxic emissions. If the thing is getting stuck after coming from a long, hot drive, you could have some air fuel mixture problems, making it sound bad after first starting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tjsprevia

Seems like 3 codes popping , I can’t tell maybe I should send a vid ? For help with reading them ?
Thanks for any advise

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Ever pull codes?

Edit - wondering why constant coolant was pouring out one of the ports after I unplugged one of the EGR valve hoses?

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Originally Posted by Tjsprevia

....

i couldnt get the thing off .. even after buying a crows foot tool

....

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How I got mine opened today... turning clockwise. 1 inch crowfoot.
https://i.imgur.com/BDxFFkH.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zxSiu5q.jpg

I added WD40 a few times as i was turning it and just used the single crowfoot piece alone by moving it with my hand and wedging a flat head screw driver in at times.


I'll probably shove the valve into a small container full of lamp oil (Kerosene) overnight and use a mini vac to hose adapter to test the EGR for movement.

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Originally Posted by tbkilb01

Ever pull codes?

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https://youtu.be/AcAAT5AwQ_A here are he codes I have to make a video because the vid wouldn’t load on this site

the ol girl has been stalling a ton , and refuses to start without starting fluid when she’s running the slightest temp after driving and sitting ..

She’s going on Wednesday to the dealer for a injector flush ( 175bones ) might be a waste of good hard earned money ....

I'm seeing 12,13,43,52..
12&13 relate to RPM signal from dizzy
43 is starter signal wire to ECM
52 relate to knock sensor signal
im thinking loose ground wire?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tbkilb01

I'm seeing 12,13,52,53....
12&13 relate to RPM signal
52&53 relate to knock sensor signal & knock sensor control signal
im thinking loose ground wire?

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Hahah, not even close to what I was seeing. Seems really hard to read . Ground wire sounds uggg ruff

thanks for looking

do you think that either of those things would cause a stalling no start issues ?

Looking at wiring diagrams, it may be your pickup coil or igniter.. Ned to test em..easy stuff...

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Originally Posted by Tjsprevia

Hahah, not even close to what I was seeing. Seems really hard to read . Ground wire sounds uggg ruff

thanks for looking

do you think that either of those things would cause a stalling no start issues ?

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Igniter may get hot under stress...overheat..till cool off, but.....? So have you tried/used the SEARCH feature of this forum? It's absolutely filled with information on these Toyota vans. They all use the same basic systems. It may not be injectors although share some of the same wiring....?
This topic has come up on several occasions...research a bit and get to know your enemy!
is yours a 91 as posted on YouTube or 92 as posted on here? Not much difference but is diff wiring diagram @ ECU

"Once stalled she won't start for 5-30 min"
I was having the same symptoms... but I think I just fixed mine tonight... one of the EGR steel lines (modulator to valve) was completely plugged... bent one side to drill it but ended up creating a hole around the other bend with the drill bit... I substituted a metal pipe from a fancy pen.

My EGR valve and modulator filter looked bad [my Previa is at 240 kilometers (150 miles)], so instead of trying to refurbish it... I used newer parts from a Previa I had recently imported from Japan.
https://i.imgur.com/bbZXXlQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/W0pzLxC.jpg

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Originally Posted by tbkilb01

Igniter may get hot under stress...overheat..till cool off, but.....? So have you tried/used the SEARCH feature of this forum? It's absolutely filled with information on these Toyota vans. They all use the same basic systems. It may not be injectors although share some of the same wiring....?
This topic has come up on several occasions...research a bit and get to know your enemy!
is yours a 91 as posted on YouTube or 92 as posted on here? Not much difference but is diff wiring diagram @ ECU

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Oh my , what an idiot I am .. my vans a 1991 awd

what I find that is weird, is that it will start up fine with starting fluid .. she didn’t stall today and the engine light does not come on in the morning when I warm her up .. after about 50 feet of driving the engine light comes back on ..

im headed to the dealership in an hour , and have decided against the injector cleaner.. and am going for 2 hours of diognostics .. the previa guy in Seattle told me he has a feeling of it either being a TPS or efi timer (aka cold start injector..

ill keep every one posted

thanks so much .. meanwhile I will keeps searching this forum for ideas

loving he community here

tj

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Originally Posted by tbkilb01

Looking at wiring diagrams, it may be your pickup coil or igniter.. Ned to test em..easy stuff...

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Easier said then done for sure .. for me ..


took it it to the Toyota dealer and they said my van was too old to work on because it had and obi 1 and not a OBI2

fuxning confuser mechanics .. glad I took work off for that

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tjsprevia

I'm headed to the dealership in an hour , and have decided against the injector cleaner.. and am going for 2 hours of diognostics .. the previa guy in Seattle told me he has a feeling of it either being a TPS or efi timer (aka cold start injector..
tj

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The cold start injector is easy nuff to test... don't think it injects once an has warmed up...ECU knows it's at operating temp...by then. Have em look at codes.
Good luck... let us know answer!

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Originally Posted by ArashB

"Once stalled she won't start for 5-30 min"
I was having the same symptoms... but I think I just fixed mine tonight...

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GREAT JOB....
Carbon deposits cause EGR valve to stick
Stuck open The engine will idle rough and possibly have repeated problems yet run good at part throttle and under load.
Stuck closed may not have any drivability complaints other than check engine light on. Maybe some pinging at part throttle.
Most common cause of EGR flow trouble codes is a plugged up intake passage. Deposits form in intake passage when HOT exhaust gases rapidly cool when entering the low pressure intake manifold.

[QUOTE=Tjsprevia;32850]Easier said then done for sure .. for me ..

took it it to the Toyota dealer and they said my van was too old to work on because it had and obi 1 and not a OBI2


This right here is reason to never go there again except as an absolute last resort. Who knows what they might do to your poor van if they get their tools on it.

Regarding some of the DIY testing stuff suggested here, I may have missed this in the thread, but do you own an actual Toyota repair manual for your 91? If not, it is a worthy investment - they are very well written and informative, and the troubleshooting sections for codes, though sometimes dauntingly lengthy, are pretty good. A lot of the diagnostics and testing is quite doable with the manual to follow, and using the mechanics like the ones at your dealership as examples of what lurks out there, doing whatever you can yourself is a worthwhile endeavor.

that knock sensor looks like a real pia to get at ..cut off wheel nessary ..

The car ran good today and almost ran out of gas coming home , after filling it up . It now refuses to start .. it will run on ether., but won’t stay running ..

also , I never had any codes until I put a fuel pressure guage on and drove it to the store

.. mind you the van has never liked the gas station , even when going on a beer run .

I’ve always felt it was a fuel issue , but the pressure guage says other wise

is it possible the fuel cut off switches in the tank are bad or ..


indeed exes I need to order the manual, no body will work on this thing .. not even the mechanic that owned 6 of these things ..

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Originally Posted by Tjsprevia

almost ran out of gas coming home , after filling it up . It now refuses to start .. it will run on ether., but won’t stay running .. .

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never good to run tank low especially older vehicles...really wears fuel pump hard. Could be failing...have you tried the old banging on tank trick? See if pump starts pumping gas again at no start issue?
You Listen for pump prime sound at key on when no start occurs?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tbkilb01

never good to run tank low especially older vehicles...really wears fuel pump hard. Could be failing...have you tried the old banging on tank trick? See if pump starts pumping gas again at no start issue?
You Listen for pump prime sound at key on when no start occurs?

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I reckon the fuel pump does not turn on until the motor is being started , I’ve jumpered the fuel pump
On the diagnostic port and it sounds ok .. haha yeah oh roflroflroflrofl !! I forgot , a few years ago the drive shaft snapped off the transpher case while driving and the shaft dented the roflroflroflrofl out of the tank .. hmmmm whonder if that’s when this issue started .. I think it is .. hmmm Apifiny ..

all the years of clues tell me it’s fuel , ( starts with ether, )( frantically pumping the gas on the freeway to get it going again sometimes works ).. systems have slowly be getting worst .. fuel Econ it down ( knock sensor coding up Likly because of ether..

then i think spark , well is fires up with ether , can’t be spark .. or it wouldn’t fire with ether

air , hmm air .. I replaced the MAF f

My van has been daily driving for weeks without issue, after I took the throttle body out and cleaned the vacuum lines to the egr.
But most common spot for buildup is just behind the throttle body, in the intake. Theres a small port leading to the egr that gets gummed up and rendering the egr useless. After a couple bent screw drivers, I was able to dig out the carbon, and soak the port in carb cleaner.

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Originally Posted by 85CargoSpace

My van has been daily driving for weeks without issue, after I took the throttle body out and cleaned the vacuum lines to the egr.
But most common spot for buildup is just behind the throttle body, in the intake. Theres a small port leading to the egr that gets gummed up and rendering the egr useless. After a couple bent screw drivers, I was able to dig out the carbon, and soak the port in carb cleaner.

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Yesterday I removed the throttle body and socked the whole unit in carb cleaner for about 3 hours and reinstalled , it had a sticky throttle valve cable , which I fixed with some wd40

i disnt have a feeler guage to re position the TBs to .033 ( headed to get one now . But on my way to the auto store she died .. seems to stall on command around 40 if I’m at a steady low speed for more than a couple miles ..

now to tackle that check engine light , knock sensor .. how do I test that ? And it looks really hard to get at ..

thanks .. really cussing the van today

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tbkilb01

GREAT JOB....
Carbon deposits cause EGR valve to stick
Stuck open The engine will idle rough and possibly have repeated problems yet run good at part throttle and under load.
Stuck closed may not have any drivability complaints other than check engine light on. Maybe some pinging at part throttle.
Most common cause of EGR flow trouble codes is a plugged up intake passage. Deposits form in intake passage when HOT exhaust gases rapidly cool when entering the low pressure intake manifold.

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Thanks... but I think I spoke too soon... the car characteristics have changed, but it stalled today. Will be looking for more solutions and will start another thread in the future.

I think Im going to try to jump the ecu settings as pointed out in the following remedies next.

Almost Stalls at Stop, Stutters when Accelerating when Warm
http://zenseeker.net/Previa/PreviaMa...nce-Engine.htm

Jjjjjjj

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tjsprevia

Yesterday I removed the throttle body and socked the whole unit in carb cleaner for about 3 hours and reinstalled , it had a sticky throttle valve cable , which I fixed with some wd40

i disnt have a feeler guage to re position the TBs to .033 ( headed to get one now . But on my way to the auto store she died .. seems to stall on command around 40 if I’m at a steady low speed for more than a couple miles ..

now to tackle that check engine light , knock sensor .. how do I test that ? And it looks really hard to get at ..

thanks .. really cussing the van today

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that dang van friggin thing stalled so many times today


Brought her home and used the feeler gauge .035 to set the throttle position sensor, it was a real PIA to do this with the throttle body in .. tape and alligator clips , ohm tester.. There is a good video on you tube , search tps previa .. Aussie guy, well done ..

i put in my old MAF sensor ( don’t know why ) and my van stalled a couple more times on a short drive but started up without ether ... hmmm , as soon as I would let off the gas, the engine would instantly feel like a Engin brake switch had been turned on ..

Sunday .. 4/21/2018 made a trip the to laundromat, the van always stalls there .. had a quick no start , but then it fired up .. my van is running much better :) better idle, smoother running .. and has yet to die after many trips to places where she would normally not start ..

ill keep you all posted ,
I have not messed with he knock sensor yet

Test drove the van twice since and I think this time renewing the TSB wires fixed the stalling!
Moving the cable around can change the dynamics... may not just be the sensor calibration.

Ive been having stalling and no start problems, off and on, for a long time. Thanks for starting this post and everyone's help.


More detail into my fix.
A couple of nights ago I not only found one TPS wire modified from the previous owner, but pulling on the 4 set of wires, one just cut in half! First pic here, the wire towards the bottom, Blue with a black stripe (VC,12v source) .
https://i.imgur.com/9n6Exma.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ge2MPnL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tCnw8Qi.jpg


I tested the wire lengths for other cuts and plug connections using the multimeter continuity beep and it was good so I kept the stock.
Its hard to crimp given the situation, and the wire can pop out if not done perfect.

https://i.imgur.com/2FcRCb6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RxGhjUC.jpg




I then re-tested the ECU plug and end connection for cut off of continuity by moving the whole TPS harness and the beep kept on.




https://i.imgur.com/t7Mq4z3.jpg




I finished it off with a glue gun to hopefully seal it from moister. One can see how the plug tab also looks like in this picture.
https://i.imgur.com/oWJUyNS.jpg

That's awesome you found the problem..
Electrical gremlins are the hardest to find.
It's frustrating because when these vans are well taken care of they are reliable as hell.
I've got 3 vans.. an 84 with 212k and injector issues
An 87 with 175k and cooling issues
And a previa with 287k that has never been tooken care of.
Oh and an 03 echo with 275k. I will always love my toyotas.

it was the distributor !!! the sensor inside was shot . code 12-13

love you guys

Just 2 weeks ago I fixed the other stalling and not starting issue I was having on top of the previous problem... the coolant temperature sensor! Only cost me less then $10.

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Originally Posted by 85CargoSpace

That's awesome you found the problem..
Electrical gremlins are the hardest to find.
It's frustrating because when these vans are well taken care of they are reliable as hell.
I've got 3 vans.. an 84 with 212k and injector issues
An 87 with 175k and cooling issues
And a previa with 287k that has never been tooken care of.
Oh and an 03 echo with 275k. I will always love my toyotas.

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It feels so good to have a nice working Previa again... mid engine is still so superior to anything thats out there.