Won't idle when cold / auxiliary air valve / idle air control valve

Sounds like the aux air valve is working properly then; I would leave it alone. Unless of course you're willing to risk another problem (the one I referred to, and it's a pain) ...

Gwen

In the powered off state should i be able to blow through the air valve???

Not 100% sure this is related to the thermostat, but my 87 4x4 5sp has been idling really high once warmed up (after 5 minutes or so). It hasn't been overheating, and other than the constant sound of a revving engine when in neutral or the clutch is engaged, it's driving normally. A friend mentioned it could be a thermostat issue. Has anyone had this issue before?

If the van warms-up and the heater blows hot air, then it's not related to the thermostat. It could be a failed air valve (between the intake manifold halves). When the coolant is cold, the air valve allows air flow (increases idle speed). When the coolant is hot, the air valve closes and prevents air flow (slower speed). To test, warm the van, then pinch an air tube going to or from the air valve. If the idle speed goes down, then you have a failed air valve. Tim

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Originally Posted by timsrv

To test, warm the van, then pinch an air tube going to or from the air valve. If the idle speed goes down, then you have a failed air valve. Tim

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Thanks Tim! I'll search for the air valve later this week. Much appreciated!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

If the van warms-up and the heater blows hot air, then it's not related to the thermostat. It could be a failed air valve (between the intake manifold halves). When the coolant is cold, the air valve allows air flow (increases idle speed). When the coolant is hot, the air valve closes and prevents air flow (slower speed). To test, warm the van, then pinch an air tube going to or from the air valve. If the idle speed goes down, then you have a failed air valve. Tim

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don't mean to hijack but i wonder if my auxiliary air valve is bad (part number 22230-73011)? this is the part you're referring to right? I can't test because i already have the intake and exhaust manifold (and a bunch of other stuff) pulled right now and I'm just replacing everything in sight basically.

is there another way to test? I did notice that this past winter (my first winter with the van) it did idle very low on cold starts - treading the line very finely of cutting out. Would this be a symptom of a bad valve? Is there an aftermarket part available? looks like its NLA.

The 87 van service manual shows how to test in more detail (pages FI-59 - FI-60). If you don't already have a copy, you can view/download here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q4u...7wOD7nKyF/view. If you're viewing that version, it's PDF pages 167 - 168. Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

The 87 van service manual shows how to test in more detail (pages FI-59 - FI-60). If you don't already have a copy, you can view/download here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q4u...7wOD7nKyF/view. If you're viewing that version, it's PDF pages 167 - 168. Tim

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oh great, thanks tim. i always forget to consult the FSM first :doh:

this part looks NLA? any aftermarket? or just grab one at a pick n pull and pray it works?

heres a screenshot of those pages:

http://i.imgur.com/HWEmlPy.png
http://i.imgur.com/Mxc4iN0.png

PS: Yes, it's Toyota part #22230-73011. They are spendy and a PITA to replace (unless you already have the intake apart). I've never actually had to replace one with new (was always able to find a good used one when needed). I see there's one listed on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injecti...JZJcHF&vxp=mtr. You used to be able to get aftermarket ones off rockauto until just a year or so ago, but it appears now they are gone. Even those were expensive........just not as bad as OE.

The symptom of a bad one is having correct idle speed when cold but high idle when hot (if it's stuck open) -OR- having a low idle speed when cold, but a correct idle speed when hot (if it's stuck closed).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

PS: Yes, it's Toyota part #22230-73011. They are spendy and a PITA to replace (unless you already have the intake apart). I've never actually had to replace one with new (was always able to find a good used one when needed). I see there's one listed on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injecti...JZJcHF&vxp=mtr. You used to be able to get aftermarket ones off rockauto until just a year or so ago, but it appears now they are gone. Even those were expensive........just not as bad as OE.

The symptom of a bad one is having correct idle speed when cold but high idle when hot (if it's stuck open) -OR- having a low idle speed when cold, but a correct idle speed when hot (if it's stuck closed).

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ok perfect, i think that should give me enough info to troubleshoot after work and hopefully determine if its bad. id hate to have to pull the intake again seeing as I've already got it all torn apart right now :)

just saw that there was another thread on this so ill let this thread get back to its original topic!

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Originally Posted by mistershmi

just saw that there was another thread on this so ill let this thread get back to its original topic!

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Posts about Auxiliary Air Valve relocated to the pre-existing thread — THANKS for the heads-up and link, mistershmi !!! :thmbup:

Gwen

My aux. air valve has been bad for years, and while I have gotten used to having to turn up my idle speed in the winter and keep my foot on the gas while warming up (I've gotten really good at using the e-brake) I was waiting for an excuse to replace it and fix an exhaust manifold leak. That excuse has finally come (blown head gasket) but imagine my disappointment at learning it was NLA after waiting for years to fix it! I didn't see the eBay listing Tim mentioned but found another NOS valve on eBay that I was prepared to pay an exorbitant amount for, believing it was the last one in existence! I probably outbid someone else on this forum to get it. Sadly, the hoses that attach to the valve are also NLA (though one dealer's site tricked me into trying to order them) so unless anyone has a recommendation I guess I'll try to find similar hoses at the local auto shop. I don't think straight hose will be able to handle those sharp 90 degree bends.

The one on eBay was an auction and was at around $30-40 when i bid on it with 30 seconds left. I bid it all the way up to $120-130 and still couldn't secure the max bid before the auction ended. I think someone had already set a really high max bid or had a bidding bot.... anyway it ended up going for almost $160. Not too bad I suppose for being probably the last brand new part in existence, but still more than I was wiling to pay, lol.

the hose won't fit those bends - I'm battling that issue right now. it kinks up badly. let me know how you end up figuring it out!

my aux valve MIGHT be okay, since i don't have to play the e-brake/gas game at stops like you do. it only happens on the initial warm up in winter. Even then it usually manages to stay just high enough to idle without dying, but it takes it a while to warm up as a result (unless i give it a little help, lol)

Lol, I had a snipe bid of $150.01 on it. The snipe site I use is supposed to go max bid within the last 7 or 8 seconds of the auction. When I set my max price there was 7 hrs left with 2 bids and price was at ~$26. When I got home that night I was actually surprised to learn I wasn't the winner :doh:. I guess I screwed up earlier by telling somebody to go search eBay for one. Lol. Tim

Yeah that was me, but i didn't get it either :LOL2:

Maybe someone here did! Whoever it was.... i will find you

Lol, it was Hammervan. He mentioned it post #20 this thread. Tim

LOL, yup it was me that won that eBay auction. I figured anyone else that wanted it was probably on this forum but I didn't realize the competition was so fierce! I actually placed my bid before I saw this thread, so you can't blame me for whipping up the frenzy! My max bid was Toyota's original retail price since I figured that's what I would have had to pay if it was still available, and if I didn't get it I wasn't sure what I would do. I actually thought about bidding way more just to make sure! Obviously I need to get more high tech to ward off the snipers! It gets cold here in SLC so I'm excited to have a van that idles in the winter.
I got a few shaped hoses from the local auto parts store that should work. One is a 1/2" hose which is a bit snug but should get the job done.

This guy on eBay still has 2 left http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injecti...JZJcHF&vxp=mtr, but I just can't bring myself to pay $285 for one. I would go $150, but any more, I'd rather take my chances with a good used one (I still have a few of those laying around). Glad I got all the molded rubber hoses when I did (now that they're like hen's teeth). It's a bummer when these type parts become NLA. I really wish I would have purchased a few more sets back when you could still get them. Tim

If that part was easier to get to I might have tried a junk yard one. The Dayco 80393 hose cut to fit will work to replace the NLA hoses (22233-73010, 22236-73011, 22237-73010), it's a bit snug (1/2" vs the 14 mm nipples). It's about a third of the price at Rockauto than my LPS, wish I'd found it there first:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....960801&jsn=259

Awesome! This is exactly the kind of information that makes forums worth while. FWIW, i thought these were 14mm, but didn't have one handy to measure. For vacuum, being a bit snug is better than being loose (no hose clamps needed). I just purchased a few of those for future projects. Tim