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So far here is what Im seeing: power makes it to the alternator, power makes it out of the alternator, all fuses are good...power DOES NOT make it to the starter...the "click" I hear is on the...

The old plug was definitely what was causing problems and I bought a new one, and replace it but it did not fix the issue completely; it just went from displaying a "dead battery light" to where I...

I am finding several alternator harnesses that look quite "similar" in their connections, or at least enough so to be modified;
early 90s previa, 80s supra, 80s landcruiser....Im wondering if I...

Update: seems to have been the wiring; I put in a new ignition switch, nothing changed, battery light was still on, no door light, no buzzer....
then I tried something I hadnt thought to, figuring...

update: put in a brand new starter.
still get a light that the battery is dead, but Oreilly checked out the battery to be good
Alternator is good.
All juice is getting to the alternator.

still...

Update: battery was tested good.
Alternator tested as bad at autozone, got it swapped for a new one.
It fixed the christmas tree lights...and the van was only really starting with a jump after...

About a month ago I started to get the Christmas tree lights, and discounted it as a faulty cluster connection due to the fact I had put in a new master cylinder and ignition lock cylinder a few...

yeah the collar is removed, its sitting right beyond it.
Ill just keep working at it but this might be one where I throw in the towel and take it to a shop.

I got a new ignition lock cylinder but am having trouble figuring out how to get the old one out and the shop service manual doesnt seem to have a section on it. Anyone do this repair?


edit: I...

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The ball joint is free but Im both stuck here, and where the inner connects to the van.

the tie rod end came off the steering knuckle just fine, it's getting the inner/outter separated from the rest of the van Im having trouble with where it's seized with rust. been going back and forth...

Ive got the tie rod end removed from the steering knuckle but Im making no headway on getting the inner or outer tie rod ends separated from the rest of the vehicle. Everything is rusted together....

The van's been running great, put 8k miles on it since my engine restoration project.

One small hiccup here lately, while driving across country my alternator adjustment bolt snapped off (dont...

things have gone from bad to complete and utter hell after I drilled all the way through the bolt and got a much larger, much deeper, and much harder (undrillable) bolt extractor stuck in the bolt.
...

The broken extractor is long gone.
At this point Im just trying to get through the bolt.

the bushing had a similar outside diameter to the bolt hole and sits inside the top after I hammered it with a rubber mallet.

Unfortunately, Ive gone through about 4 cobalt drillbits, a coulple...

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It's slow work but here is what ive come up with after shopping for mobile mechanics and deciding to go it again myself.

The left handed cobalt drill bit has had no problem going through it, my problem has just been walking. I found some cheap aircraift drillbit bushings online and will put in an order; some even...

Ive got everything else on this van great but this bolt is still plaguing me. I can drive without it but i leak coolant and need to constantly top off.

I followed one friends suggestion to go at...

update: van is running better than ever.
Turned out I had an unplugged killswitch that a previous owner installed.
I DID mess up the timing by removing the distributor but was able to correct it...

I broke the overdrive thermo switch connector today.
It snapped clean off with no wire sticking out so I cannot reconnect it.

Trying to find a part number or generic replacement; does anyone...

I used a compression gauge and reset it when it jumped.

Igniter seems properly plugged in.

I broke another connector today (after I noticed it's connection was real weak and inspected it)...

My mistake; I replaced the distributor rotor, cables and cap, NOT the distributor. I am relearning many things about engines since I hadnt done any work on one in about a decade so some of my...

Well; now Im sufficiently boggled.
I set the pully to zero; removed the distributor and put it back on so it was facing #1 wire:
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Still cranking but not starting.

Nevermind-
I gave it a hearty tug and the whole piece came out, was able to rotate it into place.
Will let you know what happens.

Thank you for your help.
Ive done everything as youve said and the same as I found without using a compression gauge; it appeared to be about 180 off.
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The one thing that was boggling me...

The reason I think it may be off is that I turned the engine manually so I could clean the pistons and then removed and replaced the distributor and spark plugs with new ones; not even thinking about...

I recently replaced many things on the engine; after I blew the headgasket and decided to just replace everything that was worn rather than the headgasket alone.
went in and swapped out:
-hoses...

Got the gaskets installed and engine mostly back together with little hicups; cept for this...
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First I broke the bolt
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Then I broke the bolt extractor...

-then using a chisel to...

Ive been cleaning and inspecting the head to see if it needs replaced and am wondering if this pit could be part of what was causing my problems with oil leakage:
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